Modeling Table Plans
06-14-2003, 04:53 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Whitesburg,
TN
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Modeling Table Plans
If anyone is interested, I have plans in PDF for a great Modeling Table. You can build it for under $40.00 material cost. Very handy for building those perfectly straight wings. The Luan door holds T-pins very well. Once the top becomes rough or no longer holds pins very well, flip the door over and you have a new building surface.
Oh yeah, they are free.
Email me at: [email protected]
Oh yeah, they are free.
Email me at: [email protected]
06-15-2003, 05:05 PM
#2
My Feedback: (65)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Charlie
I have been using hollow core doors for years as building boards.
Charlie has a set of plans for a cheap, simple to build frame to support a hollow core door. Modify the measurements to fit your height requirements; add a shelf or two for storage.
Drop him an email for a free copy!
Charlie has a set of plans for a cheap, simple to build frame to support a hollow core door. Modify the measurements to fit your height requirements; add a shelf or two for storage.
Drop him an email for a free copy!
06-16-2003, 02:48 PM
#3
My Feedback: (506)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: St. Thomas, VIRGIN ISLANDS (USA)
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
.Here's what I did.
These are the original plans that I've based my two workbenches on.
I built both tables so that the work surface is 36" up - that's waist-high for me. I extended the length of them both from the listed 48" to 72", and increased the depth to 36" from 23 7/8". I added a single beam under the top-center of each table's work surface to keep them from sagging in the middle.
I also cut the bottom shelf so that its the same length as the top surface, but only 1/3rd the depth. This gives me useful storage space under both tables while leaving enough room so that I can slide my drafting chair underneath.
The top surfaces are B-grade plywood (C-grade can be used here - beware knotholes) topped with gypsum ceiling tiles. I've covered the front and side-facing edges of the tiles with clear packing tape to keep them from crumbling when I lean or rub against them.
I'm quite happy with them.
I built both tables so that the work surface is 36" up - that's waist-high for me. I extended the length of them both from the listed 48" to 72", and increased the depth to 36" from 23 7/8". I added a single beam under the top-center of each table's work surface to keep them from sagging in the middle.
I also cut the bottom shelf so that its the same length as the top surface, but only 1/3rd the depth. This gives me useful storage space under both tables while leaving enough room so that I can slide my drafting chair underneath.
The top surfaces are B-grade plywood (C-grade can be used here - beware knotholes) topped with gypsum ceiling tiles. I've covered the front and side-facing edges of the tiles with clear packing tape to keep them from crumbling when I lean or rub against them.
I'm quite happy with them.
