I'm just about at the point of starting the painting process on my 1/3 scale Sig Spacewalker but I haven't yet decided on what paint I'm going to use. I'm using Sig Nitrate clear dope over the Koverall and need something compatible with it. What I plan to do is brush on the first coats and then I'll use a Preval sprayer for the FG parts and the finish coats on the fabric. I may not need to spray on the finish coats depending on how well the brushed coats look. It's a gasser so I don't need anything to be glow fuel proof. I've heard people talk about using Latex, urethane, etc. I could use butyrate dope but I have a feeling that'll be expensive considering the size of the model. Any suggestions?




Mike

I used paint from Nelson Hobby Specialties, http://www.nelsonhobby.com/, on my Spacewalker II. I sprayed mine, but it is a brushable product.

It dries quickly, with water clean up.

Iwould suggest latex for that large of an airplane. Be sure to use Floquil to smooth the finish. Since it's a gasser, you will not need to top coat with a clear final coat. You can get the latex in various gloss finishes and use a sponge roller to apply. It will look very nice, and easy to apply. Good luck.

Paul

I am using household exterior latex for the first time on my current project. It took some learning but at this point i cannot see using any thing else going forward especially on a gasser. The finish is great and the cost is low. There is an endless variety of colors and shades. Thinner and clean up is water. (I do use distilled water for spraying and just tap water for clean up) So far i have found Behr Premium to work the best for me. I did start out spraying an old wing i had to get the spray gun and compressor settings and learning curve out of the way. I am also working on different types of clear coats for glow fueled models to protect the latex from glow fuel but that is a seperate issue.</p>

Is it covered yet or have you started painting?

Just started covering the outer wing panels and fuse. The ailerons, tail surfaces and wing center section are covered and have several coats of Sig Nitrate clear on them.

One question I've always had with regards to latex house paint is the weight. Everytime I hear of someone using latex house paint my mind goes back to my childhood when my cousing used some on a C/L model. Weighed so much he couldn't get it off the ground! Of course it could have other issues.

Is there a difference between latex house paint and other types of latex? I've used latex enamels on some projects, model RR for one.

I guess I'm not too concerned about weight if it would happen that it's heavier since the model is supposed to be a really sweet flier at the projected weight of 20-21 lbs.


Mike

What do you mean by Floquil? I'm familiar with Floquil paints, what product are you refering to?


Mike

Of course the recommended top coat would be Butyrate Non-tautening Dope.  I don't thing the prices are that expensive.  All whites are $19.35 a quart and colors are $24.20 a quart.  This would give a light weight, durable, and compatible finish.</p>

</p>

Had you not painted them already, I would have suggested the Stits lite program.  Since you have started with dope I would recommend staying with dope.  You have a lot of money invested in the kit, engine and covering already.  Not to mention the time invested.  NOw is not the time to skimp or rush.  Make Maxey proud!</p>

</p>

Just a thought.</p>

Chip</p>

http://www.stits.com</p>

I have not noticed any exceptional weight gain with latex. All paints add some weight of course but properly applied it will be fine.

Here is a lot of good reading here on painting with latex.
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...PN=1&amp;TPN=1

Just wondering , How many years do you have to wait before you can top coat or fly with latex. AT6 build
Larry
A Gasser

I would never use a water base paint on any model airplane of mine. Even if I got the stuff for free.

But that's me.

Charles

Ithink he meant Flotrol. It is an additive to aid in leveling the paint. It's a good idea.

I agree. Latex can be had much cheaper but then other paints can be much more. I checked out the Nelson Hobby paint and while it may be a very good product, it's double that of something like Sig Lite Coat low shrink butyrate dope.

Again I tend to agree. I know that people use latex on their models and many cars are painted with water based paints, I'm just not sold on it.

Yes I do and no it's not. I've used dope many times in the past (hope there aren't any cops reading this) and I'm familiar with it. I'm also not sure how it's going to work painting FG parts with latex.

I'm going to do a little more digging, I'll definitely check out that link on painting with latex, but I'll probably end up using dope. I just don't want to take a chance on a model that I've been working on for 6 months and have $1500 invested in.






Mike

Great reply Mike.  PM me and I can put you onto a great filler/primer for FG parts also.</p>

Chip</p>

Thanks. I still discovered though that the Sig Lite-Coat I was considering is only available in clear. Where does one get colored low shrink dope?




Mike

It's unfortunate the health hazards that one has to deal with when using Automotive products. They are great!

Certainly there's no better a paint than the offerings in this industry.

The "dopes" would be my second choice, only because I'm familiar with them.

There are "industrial" grade enamels that would certainly achieve a better result than any water base product.

Yes, they are now painting cars with water base paint. However,this painthas to be cleared with a two part product. Back to the hazard.

This model was painted with automotive paint. The lettering, actually Gold Leaf, was applied with a brush. The chemical is called Gold Leaf Size. The black shadow and outline on the gold leaf lettering, was done with One Shot lettering enamel, applied by brush..

Some of the other painted detailing, the pink and blue,was done with a lacquer base paint product, which is no longer available, and applied by brush.

The entire model was cleared with Dupont clear, two generous coats.

Oldscaleguy,   You're right, I meant Flotrol not Floquil.  Sorry for the confusion.  </p>

Chopper.     I have used Nelson's product for years and as others have said, it is a good product.  Similar to latex, but more durable.  However, it is a bear cat to spray and get consistent results.  It is very easy to brush or roll, but only on fabric.  You'll want to spray it on glass or plastic parts.  Does not dry to a high gloss, but the clear coat is very good if you have to have the gloss.  If you use Nelson's, DO NOT use any primer but his.  I was talked into using another product, which some say will work.  It WILL NOT.  Nelson's will not stick to anything except his primer.  His product is water based and very user friendly.  The clear will not yellow.</p>

Good luck with your project,</p>

Paul    </p>

no one has mentioned www.warbirdcolors.com paint its water based which works well if you kow how to use it, hardly any smell, plenty of colors, and it really is durrable, its a catalized urathane,and cleans up with water.

I dont know if you have used the preval sprayer, but in general they suck, I have sold many of them,generally mixed to poor results,I worked in a paint store for 3.5yrs and have been painting for a couple of decades,
you might as well buy a inexpensive airbrush and save yourself the headache, you can also use it for many other projects in the future, than a one shot device that can be troublesome at best,and expensive after you buy the air canisters.

after doing several models using regular latex and WBC paints I am over the stinky,toxic thinners, and disposal issues, that come with the other types of model paints out there.

a couple of water based projects done with a airbrush, including the glassing with WB Varathane WB polyurathane it does work.

Hi I have always used automotive acrylic lacquer and found that the best
ok you will have to use a spray gun or you can get it mixed and put in a spray can by the
paint shop ,I always use a under coat acrylic and the top coat decides the
the color of the undercoat,also found that this paint is fuel proof I have used this for many years
without a fault

ChopperMike,

Over the years I've used latex,dope,and auto paint to coat my planes.
All will work well depending on what you want for results but I will not
recommendany of them.

My reason for repsonding to this thread is to urge you not to experiment
on a brand new plane. The end results could be very disappointing.

If your going to try something new, experiment on anything other than
a new project.


Regards,
Roby

Roby,

That's good advice.

However, If choosing to use or stay with automotive primer and automotive paint products, testing on panels isn't necessary.

The stuff works, sticks, and is basically thought free. Read the can or ask the tech guys. Simple as that.

Thing is, individuals have a tendency to re-invent the wheel, that is, with new products. Especially the latex stuff.

I'm not old school. I've been pulling the trigger on spray guns and air brushes for almost 4 decades. That's 40 years.I did this as aprofessional. This means I did it for money, actually my living, so the work had to be done right.

Art, graphics, custom paint, airbrush flames, on vans, motorcycles, boats, truck lettering and graphics. I did all the stuff you see on TV today but we had no TV shows then. We actually learned as we progressed.

It's all the same but different. Just because it's a model airplane, doesn't mean the application wouldn't be the same for, lets say, motorcycle tanks and fenders. It's just a surface, that'show I look at it.

There's a combination of many materials in these photos, including vinyl. All the painted art on canvas is with water base professional artist paint. I use Golden. Sometimes they get cleared.

Automotive paint is obvious in the photos and most is finished in a clear coat, especially the painted graphics "logos" for the WWF. I did the WWF'sairbrush art and graphics for quite a few years. Maybe 30 some odd trucks. This was back in the 80's.

I'm old, not dead!

I agree with Roby. If you are comfortable with dope, then i suggest that is what you use on this project. You have a lot of time, effort and money invested in to this plane and not one to experiment with. Obviously there are a lot of good paint systems out there. Do some experimenting on an old wing or make up some sort of partial wing or fuse or what ever and do your testing and find what you like and what works best for you. My 2 cents.

Remember back in the 50's and 60's metal flake and curtain lace were popular. Enamel that run on ht e floor and laquer that dried in the air.
Larry

Thanks. That's what keeps bringing me back to dope or epoxy. I don't want to take a chance experimenting. As far as 2 part epoxy goes, the only ones I've ever used are no longer available. I found Klass Coat the other day but know nothing about it.

I've used them a few times before, never had a problem. Obviously they're not going to give the same results as a good quality spray gun, but when you don't have a compressor, what else do you do?

I have an airbrush but it's useless for something this big. I could maybe do the cowl and wheel pants but that's about it.

I keep coming back to dope and that's probably what I'll use. I'd like to be able to use something that's low odor but I don't want to take a chance on this project. I'll probably do some experimenting, but not now.

Does anyone know who makes a low shrink butyrate dope? I thought I could use Sig Lite-Coat but as I said, I realized it's only available in clear. One the other hand, I don't know if it'll be a problem anyway. I never had a problem way back when using butyrate dope over silk or silray. I think if I was building a BUSA WWI fighter with their very flimsy wings (so I've heard) I might but the SW has very rigid wings and tail surfaces.

I gotta go lie down now. My head hurts.






Mike

I recommend either Klass Kote or Warbird Colors paints.  Both are fantastic and the customer service is outstanding!!!  I have used both.  They both spray really nice, very easy to work with, never any adhesion or lifting problems. 

http://www.klasskote.com/

http://www.warbirdcolors.com/

Tony</p>