Before I ruin a long built project. Is Rust-Oleum "Painter's Touch" spray paint fuel proof? If not, which clear coat should I be using?

Thanks,

Jim

If you are refering to the latex paint it is not fuel proof.

For fuel proofing I use Automotive two part clear. I sem to have read somewhere that Klasskote and or nelson paints hava epoxy clear coats that are fuel proof.

Ed S

Thanks Ed. No, the rust-oleum is not latex paint. It's an acrylic modified alkyd resin.Arethe 1K Automotive clear Coats fuel resistant? One of the local automotive paint supply stores (Rondex, Winnipeg) carries it's own house mix.

Jim</p>

To be certain whether it is fuel proof or not do a couple of test panels.

After the paint has dried, do a raw AND A HOT fuel test.

Raw fuel test: Pour raw fuel on the panel and let it sit overnight, then clean off.

Hot fuel test: Position the panel about 12" from the exhaust of 40 size running 2 stroke engine (rubber gloves are highly recommended for this test). Hold the panel in the exhaust for the duration of the tank. (I use an OS 46 FX with an 8oz tank for this)

Let sit overnight, then clean off.

You will know if the paint is fuel proof or not (this is also a good way to check unknown clear coats).

You put a lot of time and effort in the building/finishing of the plane - and extra day or two is worth it to be sure the final result is not going to be messed up.

Thanks, Campy that's what I might have to end up doing. I should have made a couple of test panels while I was doing the polycrylic work, it would have saved some time.There's a fun fly tomorrow, so, I'll also ask around to the other club members.

Jim

My experience with Rustoleum is that, you must let it cure (dry) for at least two weeks or more before it becomes fuel resistant. Some colors are more fuiel resitant than others. Silver is very bad, never did seem to become fuel resistant. Yes, all the Klasskotes are fuel proof, they are an epoxy paint and are very good quality although very expensive.

Campy:

I know modelers are an impatient lot but most paint manufacturers allow the paint to dry/cure at least 72 hours before testing. The longer the better.

I've used RustOleum high temp paint for years on mufflers. If it cured a couple of days it worked great. My recent Spitfire project was to get a flat black muffler, but when I pulled the can off the shelf it was almost empty. So I bought a new can. Same label, same instructions, same contents list. It didn't even pretend to be fuel proof. First flight resulted in black spots on the airplane and a soon to be shiny aluminum muffler. Every bit of fuel that hit it took off some black.

I really wouldn't bet on any new paint working like it used to.

It just occurred to me that I used this to paint my new flite box.....The painters Touch Gloss Orange (#249095) was allowed to cure over two weeks and I can get color on a rag when rubbing with 10% nitro fuel. I guess I better clear coat.

HI BEEN USING RUSTOLEUM WHITE GLOSS AND BLACK GLOSS FOR 20 YEARS- THEY ARE FUEL PROOF- FROM AN ARTICLE IN AN RC MAGAZINE BACK THEN-NOT ALL COLORS ARE FUEL PROOF-A GOOD FRIEND DID SOME RESEARCH ON THIS AND SAID THE LAST NUMBER OF THE SKEW NUMBER ON THE CAN MUST HAVE A LOT OF 7'S IN THAT NUMBERTHEN IT IS FUEL PROOF THE HOT FUEL TEST AT A RUNNING ENGINES EXHAUST WILL GIVE YOU THE RESULTS YOU ARE LOOKING FOR AS SUGGESTED ABOVE- BUT DO LET THE PAINT DRY FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE DOING THE TESTIF THE PAINT STAYS ON IT IS FUEL PROOF

I found out that Rusto-leum Painter Touch and Top Flite Lusterkote Clear are not compatible. Parts of the hatch crazed after a couple of minutes.

Looking into purchasing Klasskote to clear coat the plane now. Canadian supplier's in BC, while the Klasskote is in Minneapolis,MN. (8 hours south east driving). Minnesota and Manitoba are international border neighbours. If this was July I would have drove to get the stuff during my vacation time.

Jim

I have been told that minwax polycrylic clear is good to 10% nitro and ok for short durations at 15%. I have not tested that....I was planning to overcoat my flite box with it as the rustoleum orange is not going to work longterm.

I heard it was polyurethane. I actually covered this plane with the 0.75 cloth and minwax polycrylic . But I using klasskote clear. I know this is fuel proof.

Jim

I may well have it wrong but my mind stuck on the polycrylic as that is what I use on other projects and have some around. I just haven't tried it. I am a polymer scientist by trade and I would expect a well cured urethane to be more resistant.....problem with that concept is there are a zillion urethane chemisitries and not all are too swift. I am getting old and my brain tends to stumble.

Minwax Polycrylic is definitely NOT fuelproof. I've used gallons of it on cabinetry and accidentally tested it. A single splash of cold 10% nitro immediately softens it.

Water-based Varathane Diamond Floor Finish (now owned by Rustoleum) IS fuelproof. I've also used gallons of it on shelving (it's much tougher, but not as good looking as Polycrylic) and also finished my oak engine test stand with it 8-10 years ago. Fuel has had NO effect on it.

Cabot's Water-Based Polyurethane also seems to be fuelproof. It survived on a test scrap, but I haven't much experience with it. I can get the Cabot stuff in quarts at my local big-box store, but can't find the Varathane in less than gallons.

Any of these should be allowed to cure a week or 2. Yes, I know, delayed gratification and all that.

-Dave

Thanks for the information. I'm going to be trying the Klasskote. It arrived yesterday in the mail. The klasskote is manufactured in Minneapolis only 7 hours a cross the border.

Jim

I am certain that the Klasscoat is fuel proof. Thanks to DaveP for the real world info. I will try the water base PU for my flight box. I must have brain faded on the polycrylic....I use it for arrows and may have crossed hobbies in my feeble brain.

I,ve had realy good luck with Lustercoat Clears and paints . I use the flat clear to fuel proof the inside of a plane. http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/lustrekote.html

Thanks, Insanemoondoggie (Like that name), but I've tried lustrecoat over rustoleum painter's touch and the it crazed the paint in only a couple of minutes (see post#11). That was my first optionfrom the local hobby shop.

Jim

Just did the same on my NU b2 and found Lustercoat a crazing problem also - I'm looking for a fuel proofing - hoping that I don;t need to go automotive paints

Even though some of the Rustoleums will test ok and indicate they are fuel proof, the proof is actually not in the test but in the weeks and months that follow. Around the edges of cowl cut outs where the fuel seeps back around from inside after a cleanup... the paint will soften and come off in time.