Spraying latex
04-10-2012 | 11:04 AM
#26
RE: Spraying latex
Spraying is really the only way you are going to get a good finish. But if you can't afford it then I would use a foam brush and roller and not bother thinning it. Good quality paint is worth the money, painters touch is garbage. If you go to any paint store or big box homecenter they now have 4oz sample bottles of their premium paint available for a few bucks. They will mix custom colors or stock colors. A good spray setup can be had foraround $150 from Harbor freight. water separation is normal, thats why I use alcohol, washer fluid or denatured works. Did you use a primer underneath first? It really helps and with some colors you need a tinted primer. Good luck.
ORIGINAL: DaveB
I am in the process of painting my Dynaflite Chipmunk with latex and so far I am not getting the results I had hoped for. First off, I do not have spray equipment and have been using both a good quality synthetic brush and a small foam roller. The paint is Rustoleum (Painter's Touch) Premium Latex and the color is sun yellow gloss. The wing is covered with natural Solartex and the fuselage is fully sheeted and fiberglassed with Minwax water based polycrylic. Brush marks are visible even though very light pressure is applied while painting. When rolled the paint appears somewhat moddled in that darker yellow spots are visible on the lighter areas. On the plus side, with 2 coats, the additional weight seem minimal. My next attempt will be with a Preval portable sprayer.
I have added 1 oz floetrol to 4 oz of latex and thinned with about 2 oz. of water. I didn't use the windshield washer fluid as I thought the blue color would tint the yellow to a light shade of green. Also, the following day the water separates from the latex in the left over paint. Is this normal?
Are the mix ratios O.K.? Should I try a different brand of paint? Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks,
DaveB
I am in the process of painting my Dynaflite Chipmunk with latex and so far I am not getting the results I had hoped for. First off, I do not have spray equipment and have been using both a good quality synthetic brush and a small foam roller. The paint is Rustoleum (Painter's Touch) Premium Latex and the color is sun yellow gloss. The wing is covered with natural Solartex and the fuselage is fully sheeted and fiberglassed with Minwax water based polycrylic. Brush marks are visible even though very light pressure is applied while painting. When rolled the paint appears somewhat moddled in that darker yellow spots are visible on the lighter areas. On the plus side, with 2 coats, the additional weight seem minimal. My next attempt will be with a Preval portable sprayer.
I have added 1 oz floetrol to 4 oz of latex and thinned with about 2 oz. of water. I didn't use the windshield washer fluid as I thought the blue color would tint the yellow to a light shade of green. Also, the following day the water separates from the latex in the left over paint. Is this normal?
Are the mix ratios O.K.? Should I try a different brand of paint? Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks,
DaveB
04-10-2012 | 04:42 PM
#27
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From: Manchester,
NJ
RE: Spraying latex
Thanks for the replies,
Siince my last posting, I have acquired a 3 gallon compressor and detail spray gun. I will try again, this time with Benjamin Moore latex. I will thin the latex about 20% (at most) and add a small amount of Floetrol and go for it.
DaveB
Siince my last posting, I have acquired a 3 gallon compressor and detail spray gun. I will try again, this time with Benjamin Moore latex. I will thin the latex about 20% (at most) and add a small amount of Floetrol and go for it.
DaveB
04-10-2012 | 05:11 PM
#28
My Feedback: (158)
RE: Spraying latex
I agree,, the Berh premium thinned with denaturded alcohol worked best for me shot through my airbrush
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm
04-10-2012 | 11:56 PM
#29
RE: Spraying latex
Dave good choice in a model
. I painted my chippy with Sherwin Williams latex semi gloss cut with water only. I used a pancake air compressor with a cheap air gun i bought at Harbor Freight. It is a Dynaflite kit covered w Koverall & Minwax polycrylic. Several rattle can coats of primer then shot with the latex. Going on two years old now & still looking like the day it was painted...Gene
. I painted my chippy with Sherwin Williams latex semi gloss cut with water only. I used a pancake air compressor with a cheap air gun i bought at Harbor Freight. It is a Dynaflite kit covered w Koverall & Minwax polycrylic. Several rattle can coats of primer then shot with the latex. Going on two years old now & still looking like the day it was painted...Gene
04-20-2012 | 08:44 PM
#32
RE: Spraying latex
There is alot of good info. on this subject but one thing is left out about water. Tap water has minerals in it where as distilled or soft water does'nt and it will make a difference as a reducer. A detail gun with a 1.2mm fluid tip will do a great job with properly thinned laytex with flotrol. What ever you do don't let any of it dry in your gun because it will really gum it up. That same gun is perfect for applying the clear coat. I'm surprised someone could spray it with a air brush.
Some nice paint jobs shown here fellas, very nice. Leroy
Some nice paint jobs shown here fellas, very nice. Leroy
04-21-2012 | 03:25 AM
#33
RE: Spraying latex
Thanks Leroy, what difference does the water make? I've just used my own well water which definitely has minerals, but I have only done a couple test patches. They could be better. I would definitely buy distilled if it would improve it.
Jim
Jim
04-21-2012 | 02:04 PM
#35
RE: Spraying latex
Hi Jim, " hey I like your handle, buzzard bait, reminds me of what some of our planes look like". I dont have to tell you what well water does to your faucets, shower heads and around the sinks. Well water is some of the hardest water there is and when the water evaporates the minerals stay there. I think you can see what I'm talking about. Another thing you should do is strain your paint before you spray it, thats all paint. Better in a strainer than your spray gun.
Chuck the make of the gun is'nt as important as the quality of it. What you want is tip sizes of 1.2 to 1.4 mm, I prefer 1.2mm it puts out a nice 5" spray pattern perfect for smaller and large planes. Harbor Freight actually has a pretty good one, Camble-Hausfield is another one in the detail series, it's a suction gun used for detail, I really like it. HVLP guns will also do a good job just don't buy the larger ones they are too big for model work. Reguardless fo what you get stay with the tip sizes I mentioned, You'll be glad you did.
Oh, forgot to mention you want gun parts to be stainless don't buy it if there brass. Most of those mentioned have stainless parts.
Leroy
Chuck the make of the gun is'nt as important as the quality of it. What you want is tip sizes of 1.2 to 1.4 mm, I prefer 1.2mm it puts out a nice 5" spray pattern perfect for smaller and large planes. Harbor Freight actually has a pretty good one, Camble-Hausfield is another one in the detail series, it's a suction gun used for detail, I really like it. HVLP guns will also do a good job just don't buy the larger ones they are too big for model work. Reguardless fo what you get stay with the tip sizes I mentioned, You'll be glad you did.
Oh, forgot to mention you want gun parts to be stainless don't buy it if there brass. Most of those mentioned have stainless parts.
Leroy
04-21-2012 | 05:18 PM
#36
RE: Spraying latex
I spray through a cheap detail gun I purchased from Lowes, about $35 I think. I don't have a big compressor either, but it does the job. I have a water extractor in the line and usually shoot at less than 30 PSI. Thinning the latex to a certain percentage may work great in one make of gun and not so great in another make. You must do a trial and error shoot from your own gun to get the best mix. I suspect relative humidity may also come into play, as well as a host of other human error factors. Even different colors from the same manufacturer with spray differently. It's an experience game really. After a while, you know when you have the mix right by the way it shoots.
04-30-2012 | 01:38 PM
#37
RE: Spraying latex
I tried some acrylic craft paint from our local Hobby Lobby store. I clear coated it with the local house brand of two part urethane automotive clear. Hobby Lobby paint dried for 24 hours and brushed on urethane. I just needed to touch up under the spinner on the cowl so didn't need to spray anything. The urethane was laid on pretty heavy so if a reaction was to take place I would have thought it would do something. While not a definitive test, I'm happy with the results. I'll try it again on a slightly larger scale next time and spray everything. Over all it looks promising.
Ken
Ken
05-01-2012 | 02:17 AM
#38
RE: Spraying latex
ORIGINAL: buzzard bait
Thanks Leroy, what difference does the water make? I've just used my own well water which definitely has minerals, but I have only done a couple test patches. They could be better. I would definitely buy distilled if it would improve it.
Jim
Thanks Leroy, what difference does the water make? I've just used my own well water which definitely has minerals, but I have only done a couple test patches. They could be better. I would definitely buy distilled if it would improve it.
Jim
I've made over 10,000 gallons of latex paint, when I was in the paint manufacturing business. Not one gallon was made with anything other than tap water. If tap water is good enough for manufaturing, I would think it would be suitable for modelling usage.
