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Painting with auto paint questions
<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: x-small">I've done a search and read all that came up and still haven't found the answer to my questions. It's been at least 30 years since I've been in an auto body shop and then I only did a small amount of body work, no painting,mostly swept the floors and masked. My questions. I've got my paint and ingrediants. I went to an autoparts store and explained what I wanted to do and the guy sold me what he said I needed. Color, activator, reducer and urathaneclearcoat. I've talked to a couple of my friands and have gotten conflicting information. One says that I mix color, reducer and activator in the ratio listed on the can of paint, 2:1, the other says that I mix the paint and reducer in a 2:1 ratio with no activatorthen I add the activator to the clear coat. Another said the order that ingrediants are mixed is important as well asthe temp. in my shop, 55 deg. right now. I'm sort of lost here. A little advice would be appreciated. Pleaseremember, you're talking to a rookie who dosen't even know the correct terminology.</span></span></p> |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
First off 55 degrees aint good. You really want to be close to 72 and dry. Second, read your can, it will tell you what to add.;)
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Agree with the temp being too low and do it on a dry,not humid day.
It sounds like you have a base coat /clear coat system. Again it will state on the base(color) and clear cans what the ratio is. Typically for base coat it is 1:1 ; 1 cup of base with 1 cup of reducer. Typically for clear it is 2:1 or 4:1; 2 or 4 cups of clear with 1 cup of activator (hardener) |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
FWIW, I mix mine on a scale, not by volume
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
First the mixing direction should be with the information sheet the paint store gave you.
But: The paint (base coat) should be mixed 4 parts color to 1 part activator. Then reduce to spraying consistancy. Mix a little reducer in the paint and give a test spray on a piece of paper taped to the wall. If you get a splatchy paint spray, reduce it some more. Keep this up intil you get a fine mist. Do not mix a lot of reducer in the base coat until you try spraying it. Or you may over reduce it and ruin you paint. You can't take reducer out of the paint. Clear coat is usually mixed 4 parts clear to 1 part activator. Reduce the same as you did with the base coat. Clear coat has to applied wet, which means you need lots of light where you can see the paint hitting the surface and glosses. Too much and it will run, too little and it will be rough and not glossy ( known as dry spray) . Be sure to use alcohol 70% mixed with 30% water and wipe your surface clean to remove all the finger prints and oils. Then tack with a good tack rag. Min temp should be 65 degrees F. You can add fast reducer and a fast activator for cooler weather. Frank |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
ORIGINAL: vicman First off 55 degrees aint good. You really want to be close to 72 and dry. Second, read your can, it will tell you what to add.;) <font size="2"><u>"I've talked to a couple of my friands and have gotten conflicting information. One says that I mix color, reducer and activator in the ratio listed on the can of paint, 2:1, the other says that I mix the paint and reducer in a 2:1 ratio with no activatorthen I add the activator to the clear coat. Another said the order that ingrediants are mixed is important as well asthe temp. in my shop, 55 deg. right now." </u></font>"Typically for base coat it is 1:1 ; 1 cup of base with 1 cup of reducer. Typically for clear it is 2:1 or 4:1; 2 or 4 cups of clear with 1 cup of activator (hardener)" So the reducer goes with the base (color) and the activator goes with the clear? countilaw, I just read your post (we were wrighting at the same time). The store didn't give me anything but a reciept. |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Kap, What brand of paint are you using? Most brands of base coat do not have an activator, only reducer. Clear is mixed in this order, clear, activator, reducer. I usually double the amount of reducer in clear coat for airplanes to keep it light. I was in the auto painting business for 33 years, now retired. RS
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
ORIGINAL: KaP2011 ORIGINAL: vicman First off 55 degrees aint good. You really want to be close to 72 and dry. Second, read your can, it will tell you what to add.;) <font size="2"><u>"I've talked to a couple of my friands and have gotten conflicting information. One says that I mix color, reducer and activator in the ratio listed on the can of paint, 2:1, the other says that I mix the paint and reducer in a 2:1 ratio with no activatorthen I add the activator to the clear coat. Another said the order that ingrediants are mixed is important as well asthe temp. in my shop, 55 deg. right now." </u></font>"Typically for base coat it is 1:1 ; 1 cup of base with 1 cup of reducer. Typically for clear it is 2:1 or 4:1; 2 or 4 cups of clear with 1 cup of activator (hardener)" So the reducer goes with the base (color) and the activator goes with the clear? countilaw, I just read your post (we were wrighting at the same time). The store didn't give me anything but a reciept. |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
I finally found the website for both products and was able to download the product sheets. The basecoat product is Wanda and the clear, activator and reducer are all High Teck. Even though the cans say to use at 55 to 65 deg. the base still has to be sprayed at 70 deg. I've got the heat on in the shop now warming it up. I'll give it a try tonite. Thanks for the help and advice.
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
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Wanda paint is an exceptionally good paint. It's made by Sikkens, one of the most expensive paints today. It's used on high dollar exotic cars. The pigment is thick and heavy and will need to be reduced alot to be sprayable. You can mix an activator with it, but it doesn't need it. Wanda paint is very affordable. It is the only automotive paint that I use.
Here are just a few things I've painted with Wanda Paint. Frank |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
<span style="font-size: xx-small"><span style="font-family: Arial">Very nice paint jobs, I really like the Challenger. I had a 69 in 1978 that was destroyed in a drag race. I've been in love with the new ones since they came out.</span></span></p> |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
That '56 Ford is gorgeous. That's the truck I always wanted back when I thought I needed a cool ride to impress people.
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
OK guys, I really appreciate the kind words, but lets not detour the thread. I just wanted to illustrate that I know what I'm talking about when it comes to paint.
The application of clear coat is : A controlled run !! Frank |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
I've always looked auto paints in this day and age as part science, part, art, and part religion!!! ;)<div>
</div><div>In my opinion, those guys that can get great finished out of an air gun are true artists!!!!! :D</div><div> </div><div>My experience with painting vehicles is limited to restoring several military vehicles over the years. And when you're shooting a flat green paint you can almost close your eyes and go to sleep and still get a good finish. I know I don't have the talent to tackle a nice job like those posted above!!!!! Those are gorgeous!!!</div><div> </div><div>Ken</div> |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
A good start to a good finish is a good gun, when you have that, you can spray just about anything and get a good finish. Looking forward to spraying my P-51 when its ready, should look pretty good when its done. Haven't used my gun since I painted my Grand Marquis two years ago.
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
I have the newest, latest, greatest gun on the market. The Preval gun. I figured since I was going to paint at least 1 cowl every 2 or 3 years I needed to get the best gun I could afford.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...wink_smile.gif
All kidding aside, if I do find that I will be doing more painting then I will invest in the proper equipment. The only reason I'm not using a spray can now is because I need to match some 21st Century Fabric on a Sig Smith Miniplane that I'm building. I still have not sprayed the color but I've got the priming done and ready to paint but it's been too cold and I'm too cheap to turn the heater in my shop on for long enough time. I look at that electric heater and all I can see is little dollar signs floating up and disappearing.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ngry_smile.gif |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Base coat / clear cote can vary from mfg. to mfg but some things are the same. The mix ratio numbers are as such, first # is paint the second # is thinner and will look like this, 2 1 or 1 1. Clear coat mix has 3 numbers, Fitst # is the clear second # is thinner and third # is activator and looks like this, 4 2 1 or 8 4 1 , what ever you do follow the mix ratio on can or mix sheet that the seller should have given you.
Most of these paints are best painted with a HVLP, high volume low pressure gun at 10 to 20 lbs of pressure and there are thinners for cold temps but the best results are with temps 70 to 80 degrees. Someone mentioned lighting and you should have very good light so you can see the clear go on. There is a window of time from the time you spray the base to the time you can spray the clear, it's usually 5 to 7 days. These two products merge, meaning they become one as the result of a chemical reaction that marries the two together. Finished product can be sanded with 1200 to 3000 grit and buffed to a brilliant shine if you choose to. |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
ORIGINAL: Leroy Gardner Base coat / clear cote can vary from mfg. to mfg but some things are the same. The mix ratio numbers are as such, first # is paint the second # is thinner and will look like this, 2 1 or 1 1. <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Clear coat mix has 3 numbers, Fitst # is the clear second # is thinner and third # is activator and looks like this, 4 2 1 or 8 4 1 </span>, what ever you do follow the mix ratio on can or mix sheet that the seller should have given you. Finished product can be sanded with 1200 to 3000 grit and buffed to a brilliant shine if you choose to. If the paint manufacturer knew the amount of "Thinner" to add to your paint, They would automatically add the thinner during the manufacturing process. The mixture numbers are always Clear : Activator : Reducer such as 4:1:2 . Some Clears require 4:2:X Frank |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
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<span style="font-family: Arial">Below is copy and pasted directlyfrom the web sites of the two products. The wandabase does not mention the use of activator while the clearcoat does not mention the use of reducer, only activator. I guess they assume if you know how to paint then you would know how to thin the clearcoat. <font size="1">I still have not painted the parts, still waiting for the temps in North GA to warm up a little. The reducer I have is for 55 deg to 65 deg. The wandabase instructions say not to use if temps are below 70 deg. Should I take the reducer back and get some that is for a warmer temp range?</font> 2 Parts Wandabase HS Basecoat 1 Wandabase HS Reducer 422.02999 or High Temp Reducer 422.02997 </span><span style="font-size: x-small"><span style="font-size: xx-small"><span style="font-family: Arial">Euro HS Universal Clear 4:1 Mix Ratio </span></span></span></p> |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
ORIGINAL: countilaw ORIGINAL: Leroy Gardner Base coat / clear cote can vary from mfg. to mfg but some things are the same. The mix ratio numbers are as such, first # is paint the second # is thinner and will look like this, 2 1 or 1 1. <span style=''color: rgb(255, 0, 0);''>Clear coat mix has 3 numbers, Fitst # is the clear second # is thinner and third # is activator and looks like this, 4 2 1 or 8 4 1 </span>, what ever you do follow the mix ratio on can or mix sheet that the seller should have given you. Finished product can be sanded with 1200 to 3000 grit and buffed to a brilliant shine if you choose to. If the paint manufacturer knew the amount of ''Thinner'' to add to your paint, They would automatically add the thinner during the manufacturing process. The mixture numbers are always Clear : Activator : Reducer such as 4:1:2 . Some Clears require 4:2:X Frank Frank it don't surprise me how little some know about paint and you are so far off the chart i'm not even going to debate it with you. I have painted every paint on the planet on just about every thing ever painted and if I needed more information about it I would shurley not come to RCU. Take some time and really find out what those numbers mean and then maybe you could help someone looking for answers that should come from the mfg. when they get there paint. Sorry to burst your bubble.:eek: |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
I doubt that they list paint ratios in reverse order in the US.I've used american paint brands in a marine enviroment,very good they were too.Most automotive paints used here are european and all are measured the same way.For single pack(1K)basecoat a thinning percentage is always given.Thinners will be graded slow,medium and fast depending on temp.2K solid colours and clears are generally 2:1,3:1 and 4:1 eg; four parts clear to one part activater always mix these together FIRST before adding any thinner.Activaters can also be had in slow,medium and fast depending on season and workshop temps.Cheers and good luck.
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Here are directions as published by Wanda's Website:
http://www.wandarefinish.us/files/Wa...lear%20TDS.pdf It says 4 part clear to 1 part activator / hardener (4:1) It does not say 4 parts clear to 0 parts reducer to 1 part activator /hardener ( 4:0:1) Notice that it doesn't say anything about how much reducer to add. On base coats it shows 2 parts base to 1 part reducer (1 : 2 ) No hardener needed. http://www.wandarefinish.us/files/Wa...20HS%20TDS.pdf Here is another site Inate Paint Supply http://www.innate.com/Paint/DIY/Clear_Kits.htm Here is how they say to mix the clear: <font color="#FFFF00"><font size="5">OK, How about some CLEARCOAT to top your work off?</font></font> <blockquote><p align="justify" style="margin-left: 10"><font size="5">Y</font>es, we even have kits for this too. These kits with Xotic Colours products contain both a build clear (Production Cleer 32-200) to smooth out the edges and a final or flow clear (Sun-Bloct Final Cleer 32-100) to give it that smooth as glass finish. The kits also contain the catalyst and proper temperature reducers needed to make the clears fuel proof and tough as nails. The perfect finish to show off all of your hard work.</p><p align="justify" style="margin-left: 10">These clears mix 3:1:1/2 (3 parts Clear: 1 part Catalyst: 1/2 part reducer). The small size comes in handy plastic bottles and regular size in cans. </p></blockquote>Please note the last paragraph: These clears mix 3:1:1/2 ( 3 parts clear: 1 part Catalyst (aka hardener and activator): 1/2 part reducer (thinner). Leroy Gardener, I would ask for an apology, but I don't expect one. Frank |
RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Man, that sure is a fine looking Challenger, the Ford pickup looks really good too.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...eeth_smile.gif
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
You're a squeezer:)please don't paint anything
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RE: Painting with auto paint questions
Since I'm not from down under, I am not familiar with the term squeezer. Is that an Australian expression? I think I've been insulted. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../msn/frown.gif
Frank |
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