Paining lines with liquid mask
 

So I could use some advise. I am painting a P-51D Mustang and am trying to paint the line near the cockpit, just below the OD Green cowling. You can see the line here in this picture of the P-51D.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2053451

Well I first tried to use tape but that did not work out. I was told about liquid mask and ended up buying some Fasmask. I put it on the plane, used a hair dryer to help dry it then used an exacto knife to cut out the line. I then painted the line and let it dry. I peeled off the Fasmask and well lets just say the line did not come out exactly as I was hoping. I actually think I could have hand-painted it better.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2053454

Does anyone have any helpful tips to using Fasmask? This is my first time using it so I am not sure what I did wrong. I am going to repaint and re-attempt so any advise would be greatly appreciated!

A smooth surface is essential, if you want crisp lines.

I use 3M fine line tape, from the automotive paint store. Mask the area, and burnish the edges to get a tight seal.

I spray a light coat, and let it set for 10-15 minutes. I then spray a medium coat, and wait another 15 minutes. A final, "wet" coat is then sprayed.

It looks like you are brushing, which makes it difficult to get a professional looking paint job.

I suggest that you use the fine line tape, and burnish the edges. Apply a thin coat of the color underneath, or clear. Once that has dried, your color can then be applied in light coats.

I would not try to get complete coverage in one coat. Several, thinner coats, will provide a better look.

These graphics are painted, not vinyl.

Thanks for the advise. This is my first attempt building anything, so I am learning everything as I go.

Are you "free handing" the lines? To get a nice straight line, a straight edge is needed. To get nice equally spaced lines, I use singe edge razor blades with a stack of washers between them, then I use a small nut and bolt to hold them together. larger line I add more washers, thinner line I use less washers.

One trick to seal the edge is to spray a light coat of the under laying color. Then paint the top color.


Straight
http://www.staples.com/Westcott-12-S...product_103960


Curved
http://www.staples.com/Helix-USA-Fre...YF078276571203

Buzz.

So here is attempt #3. It looks a lot better but I still need practice.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2054214

Much better ! :D

You can't reasonably expect perfection on your first attempts. The important thing is that you are trying, and each try is an improvement.

As you gain experience, you will notice an improvement in your painting techniques.

So here is the final plane! I am happy how it came out but I have a lot of learning to do. The decals on the cowling are not very good but I have tried several times and can not get it smooth on a curve. Anyone have a suggestion on decals on a curve?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2054533

Assuming these are a peal and stick decal you can try putting them on wet. All you need is a little Windex. Mist the surface of where the decal goes and if you choose the decal itself though not always necessary. Apply the decal and squeegee the Windex from under the decal. I use an applicator used to apply body filler. They are available in several widths from most auto parts stores. The windex lets you reposition the decal if you didn't lay it down in the right spot the first time as long as it hasn't been "stuck" down with the squeegee. On the nose of your Mustang you have compound curves. Those are always tough to apply a decal to as you have a curve in two directions at the same time. The Windex will let you "stretch" the decal a bit letting/helping it conform to the curves. Any left over moisture will evaporate from under the decal and let it stick down. This might take a couple of days or find a warm spot or set the plane in the sun.

Hope this helps!

Ken

Self sticking graphics are easy too.. and can be cut out of TopFlite TrimKote.. then use the method Ken described above to apply.. just an idea.

Your Mustang looks really cool so you're doing fine.... Have a nice weekend. :)

SoS, remember one thing, these were painted in the field by the guys flyin them. They did not have spray equipment nor did they have quality paint. In reality your paint job is about as realistic as it comes. I remember one story from my father when they had changed an airframes numbers and they used balled up T shirts to wipe the paint on for the new numbers and stripes.

Here are some examples of the paint jobs on WWII aircraft. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2293229 Be prepared for several hours of viewing pleasure.

Ken

This pic is a perfect example of what I spoke of. Look at the blue to blue and the texture of the paint.

Thanks guys! I will try these suggestions on my next build. I am building a Piper Cherokee. I am going to paint it like the one I got my license in, so it will be a little more challenging than just using a set decal sheet.