Rustoleum cure time?
 

I just finished painting a model with Rustoleum. What would be a safe cure time at room temp to be fuel proof to 10%? I really don't want to clear coat because of added weight. I used red and white and it looks good. I tried Lustrekote first and didn't like the results. That is some over rated paint.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

From what I understand, asking around, It's two weeks cure time for 15% so maybe a little less time for 10%.... I'd go with the two weeks just to be sure anyway !;)

Good Luck,
Ugo;)

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

In my experience it takes a week to feel dry. But once it does, raw fuel wouldn't affect it.

One strange thing happened to me, though, with my RV-4. The white Rustoleum I used on the cowl and landing gear is picking up the pink tint from my Omega fuel. It's still hard and glossy, just tinted a little.

Phil

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

'dunno 'bout the cure time on models at room temperature, but I painted the floor of my new 7'x16' trailer with Rustoleum oil based paint last October, and it _still_ stinks to beat the band. Same thing for the 4'x8' ply sheet I put in the back of the E-350 Super Duty van - stinky poo after 5 months !!!

Tough as a boot, but it sure does stink.

'course, you prolly wouldn't use oil based paint on a model . . . wouldja ?

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Thanks for the input fellers. Guess I'll give it about two weeks and test the small samples I painted. Sure hope this stuff is fuel proof, hate to have to clear coat this baby.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Get your model out in the sun. You'll be surprised at what the UV rays will do for the cure time.

The sun seems to be more important than temperature. Last Fall, I painted a cowl. It stayed tacky for two days. I placed it outside, in the sunlight. Even though the temp was 50 degrees, the paint set up in a couple of hours.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Well it didn't work for me. I had painted two test panels with the red and white. I let them set for two weeks with the last three days outside. I tested with 10% today and within one minute the paint started to curdle and peel. At least I didn't have the model completely assembled. Will now have to look for a good clearcoat.[:o]

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

That's too bad that it didn't work. I've had good luck with sunlight.

A friend is having similar problems with DupiColor primer. The paint gods must be against us.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

FWIW - SOME of the Rustoleum colors are fuel proof. I don't know which ones, but someone may chime in and be able to tell you.

What I do know is:

If a paint is labled ACRYLIC lacquer/enamel, it is fuel proof. Many, but not all, of your automotive touch up paints are acrylic. If it isn't labled acrylic, assume it isn't. Dupli-Color has a "Truck & Van" paint that is an acrylic lacquer, however, it is a limited selection of colors. Wal-Mart has this for about $4 for a 11 - 12 oz spray can. Just be careful about compatibility. You can put enamel over lacquer, but not the other way.

For a clear coat I can highly recommend a WATER BASE polyurethane. It is compatible with just about everything, it WILL NOT YELLOW with age, it is definitely fuel proof to 10% nitro (all I use) and various reports indicate no problems with 15% nitro, there are no fumes, soap and water clean up, and if you don't have spray equipment, MinWax has it in spray cans.

Hope this is of some help.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

I just picked up some of the water base urethane today to use as a last resort. I have used other colors of the Rusty on other planes and never had a problem. I am now thinking that my test might not have been valid. I had sprayed a sample of each color on ceramic saucers since this was handy. This may retard the curing process since it is not porous as is wood or covering material (Coverite). So I have decided to test again on wood before I resort to the added step of clear coating.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Is there a differnence in acrylic lacquer and lacquer?

I was looking at the Tamiya lacquer paint that tower sells, sice it is lacquer is it fuel proof?

Also the paint that Tamiya makes for the polycarbonate car bodies says it is 100% fuel proof, could you paint fiberglass with this kind of paint?

Weskel

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

used red green and white. all fuel proof.

and about the dry time?-->dont press too hard with your finger to see if its dry/hardened up. You WILL leave a fingerprint (whorls will be very well defined). You KNOW how I know.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Okay here is what I found about the Rustoleum paint I am using. This only applies to the red and white that I planned to use. I had sprayed some of each on some ceramics and let them cure for a full two weeks. Some of the time they were inside next to a heater and a few days outside sitting in the sun. I then subjected them to some 10% fuel. The paint lifted after less than one minute. After a little head scratching (used other colors in the past) I realized that it might be the material I was using for the test. I went and painted a piece of plywood. In just two days it was fuel proof with the 10%. Turns out if you use it on a non-porous surface it may never fully cure. I would not use this on plastic or fiberglass and expect it to be fuel proof unless you can wait a VERY LONG time. Since that time I have used it on various woods and cloth covering (super coverite) with good sucess.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Works just fine on coroplast (SPAD's) and there is no absorbtion with that stuff. I have had NO peeling and I usually fly within a week of painting.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

iwannafly, you mentioned something about water based polyurethane. Where can I find it and what brand? Thanks for the info.

In Christ,

Joel Chavez

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Without trying to promote my product (too much)....

Go to:

http://www.warbirdcolors.com

WarbirdColors is a line of one-part, water-based, fuel-proof, acrylic polyurethane paints, primer & clear cote formulated specifically for the RC hobbyist.

You can contact me at:

[email protected]

The USA page currently has the clear cote on the color pallet. Just click on the "stars & bars", go the the color palet menu option & purchase via PAYPAL, or contact me via email.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

There are several brands out there - MinWax, Deft, Varathane among others. Most hardware stores - places like True Value, Ace, Home Depot, Lowes and Wal-Mart. The only water base poly I am aware of that is available in a spray can is MinWax. MinWax water base has a blue label on the can.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Water base poly-urethane did not work out for me. After curing I applied some 10% glow fuel and it got sticky-gooey. Would not work for me as a fuel proof top coat.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Most water based wrethanes are NOT fuel proof. They are a great under layer product. any of the oil based urethanes will work but they are heavy and will yelloy some of the colors.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

OK, now. Seems we have a difference of opinion here. Iwannafly seems to be the voice of experience, but what brand did you try? Over what material? How long of a cure time?

Campy, have you tried waterbased poly U? What brand? Did you do the 15% test yourself?

Thanks for any clarification.

Phil

PS, I have tested and used white and two shades of blue Rustoleum and found them fuelproof, except that the white does absorb the pink color of 10% Omega fuel where the exhaust from my two-stroke directly hits it.

RE: Rustoleum cure time?
 

Philip all I can say is that I used it on a piece of aircraft plywood. I waited the recommended cure time. I applied some 10% fuel and wiped it off almost immediately with a cloth and felt a drag. I touched it and it was sticky. I waited a few minutes and rubbed it with my fingers and it was gummy. For sure nothing I could use as a final clearcoat. It might be something that someone would say was fuelproof in that the fuel might not reach the underlying wood or paint if you want to put up with the sticky finish. A friend claims he uses it for fuel proofing firewalls but on the other hand he couldn't tell me if the firewalls are tacky. I'm not sure he doesn't have the regular urethane and the water based confused. I used the Minnwax product in the blue labeled can. You probably should just test it yourself and see if it fills your particular needs. I would not use it for a final coat on a glow powered plane. I could not find a regular polyurethane that did not have amber/yellowing qualities and seems to get worse with age. Test, test and test again. Good luck.

really depends on what rustoleum you actually used. to be honest though duplicolor, rustoleum, zinsser and a few other name brands are all made by sherwin williams and not very good. but some food for thought i have had better luck with opaques of rustoleum, and duplicolor than clears but even then i have ran into bad batches of said opaques ( colors in case you dont know). now in regards to clears, it is best to stay away from EVERYTHING sherwin williams makes, i have had several projects require stripping because after 30, 60, and 90 days respectfully i could still strach the clear topcoat and grab enough of that little scratch to literally completely peel the clear off of the project ( in fact i have a few flakes from one of the projects i peeled the clear off of 90 days ago and they are still soft and it is now going on 115 days).

Why all the hassle about which hardware store paint is fuel proof and which color is fuel proof? Why not use fuel proof hobby paint from the start? At the very least, why not clear coat with a "Known" fuel proof paint?

Nelson hobby paint is WATER BASED, fuel proof to 40% with the cross linker, applies with a foam brush and is available in Monokote matching colors. Seems like a "No Brainer" to me. I posted a review of the product on the other RC website for RC groups.

http://www.nelsonhobby.com

Hardware store paint is not intended for our use, the manufacturer can change the formula at any time without warning, causing disaster for our models. Is it really worth saving a few bucks?

In case you're interested, Nelson Paint wasn't intended for our use, either. Like many modeling products, it was developed for other purposes and found suitable for models.

Indeed that is true, but the point is Nelson paint is in the business of selling to modelers. I think it is safe to assume that if the manufacturer changed the formula such that the chemical resistance would be altered, Nelson Paint would know about it.

Although some may get a thrill finding a can of Hardware paint in the .99 cent bargain bin that is fuel proof under certain conditions, there is no way to know when the manufacturer changes the chemical resistance of the product to meet some more pressing requirement. Furthermose as the paints are not designed for chemical resistance to begin with there is little motivation to retain that paint feature if it ever existed in the first place.

It is only by chance a particular can works for your purpose, the same can from the other hardware store down the street may not.

The point is that using any paint in a manner not suited to it's intended purpose is risky and requires close attention and control. I guess testing harware store paint on your model IS a part of this wonderful hobby but be aware that the odds of success are low and other MORE SUITABLE alternatives ARE AVAILABLE.

The owner of Nelson Paint is a professional yacht painter who uses System 3 paints everyday, he is also a modeler. He distributes System 3 paint to modelers as a fuel proof, water based alternative to Butyrate Dope, Klass Kote epoxy paint, and Lusterkote which are the only KNOWN fuel proof or resistant hobby paints (to my knowledge).

I have personally used dope, Lusterkote, and Hobby Poxy (similar to Klass Kote), as well as a few others that are no longer available. I can tell you that Nelson paint is far and away easier to use than any of them. Furthermore the finish is close to epoxy paints in so far as fuel resistance, hardness and gloss are concerned. A big plus is that due to it's water based composition it can be applied over a variety of other finishes without attacking them. I have tried to remove Nelson paint with raw dope thinner without success, I would say it is VERY resistant to chemicals. Nelson hobby paint is also much safer to use, both for yourself and the environment. It does have its quirks so be sure to do your research.


I am more than willing to pay a couple of bucks premium to Nelson paint to insure the product retains the qualities important to me. I'm confident he is well qualified to do so and is close enough to System 3 to be aware of changes in the paint formulation.

It's puzzling to me why these "Harware Store" paint threads are so popular and I am amazed by the number of modelers that risk their models by painting with these paints. It's clear that some do have great success, while others don't and end up with a big mess.

Seems like the classic "Long tunnel, no cheese" situation to me!

I guess the popularity of hardware store paint is because a lot of modelers don't want anything to do with learning how to spray paint, and having to buy all of the equipment and supplies needed to spray paint a small project.
Right now I need to paint a cowl, and this is the first time I needed to paint something in over 15 years. I plan on using what I can buy from the hardware store.
I had also tried the supposed brush on paint with a terrible outcome in the way the finish looked when dry..
It was mentioned to use paint intended for our particular use, but this is also not necessarily the answer either. I have read several threads on the use of Lustercoat, and the varying degrees of success that people have had with it. It seems as if the success rate is about the same as Rustolium.
I realize that there are those of you that cherish the painting part of the hobby, and then there those of us that don't give a rats azz about painting, and just want to get it over with.

Greg

I don't care for Lusterkote myself. Too few colors, only fuel proof to 15%, only available as a spray and expensive. Nelson paint goes on with a foam brush, thins with tap water, fuel proof to 40% with the cross linker and is available in a multitude of colors.

I have not tried it on plastic though.

Not necessarily so.

I buy my Rustoleum in quart cans, and spray it with my HVLP gun, using my 6 hp, 60 gallon compressor.

I find that Rustoleum provides a realistic gloss finish, for my scale models. The paint is easily accessable, and is user friendly.

These models were all painted with Rustoleum.

You must have missed the part where I said that the casual painter doesn't want to buy all of the equipment necessary to paint with a compressor. I took a quick look at Horbor Freight, and to get a gun and compressor half the size of yours would be around $400.00 minimum. That is a lot of money to just paint a cowl and maybe my wheel pants. I do not like painting and am not looking for projects to paint, just to justify the initial cost of the painting equipment.
Even if you had the equipment, you still need to get proficient at using it. You may totally botch up a paint job in the learning process and have to sand everything down and start all over again. NO THANKS!
If you want painting and finishing to be a major part of your hobby enjoyment, more power to you. As for us casual painters, we will be on our way to the hardware store for our next painting project.

Greg

My gun was half the price you mention, and I purchased it a reputable source, not HF. I consider myself to be a "casual painter". I paint a few models every year. I'm certainly no professional painter.

Botching up a paint job on a cowl is no big deal. I use solvent to remove the paint. It's much easier than sanding.

I grant you that painting is a learned skill, but it's necessary if you are building models. Painting from an aerosol is similar to using a gun. In some ways, it's the technique and not the equipment.

This model was painted using Rustoleum aerosol cans.

Good results can be had with rustoleum,, Yes as a cabinet maker I have been spraying with pricey HVLP equipment for over 20 years, so I do know the tricks,,, It can be a challenge for new guys but I agree with Tom. IMO The work and learning curve is worth the effort in the satisfaction that you have built a one of a kind model.


My recent Rattle can renovation,, with a little help from an airbrush set up,, to get a finer over spray line at the green over grey bottom, I sprayed the paint into a paper funnel, let it drip into the airbrush cup, then sprayed that to get a finer line. I've used that same technique with Lusercote because it sometimes sprays so crappy out of the can

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