Control horn installations..
 

I guess either the single hole dubro arm is the best solution right now or as they say those who solve the problems of the masses will gain wealth in doing so...anybody think of a better mousetrap? I think the Dubro horns work well and also like that they are infinitely adjustable as opposed to 4 or 5 holes on a horn.

The circuit board thing is interesting but how to implement that on a solid covered arf rudder, stab or aileron?

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try cutting a piece of hardwood about 1x1x3. drill a 1/16 hole thru it close to one end that is straight(preferably with a drill press)....take yur time here and be sure it is 90 degrees to the surface. now thin ca the hole and redrill. this will be your drill guide :) . place the flat (bottom) part of horn in place (not the horn itself but the other part) and mark the holes with a pen or whatever. using a pin vice with a 1/16 drill place the drill in yur drill guide and place the drill on one of yur marks ...lower yur guide to the surface and drill thru the rudder/aileron. by keeping yur guide in the same attitude all the holles will be on same angle and it should work perfect......man was that ever long winded... :D

tapered surfaces can be done same way but you must do them in a vice...line up the surface so it is straight in vice and lay yur jig on top of the vice jaws.

Re: DU-BRO HORNS
 

This is the same method we use on our pattern planes.

Make a hard point in the control surface using a 1/2 dowel.
Drill the surface with a 1/2 brass tube, cut dowell to proper thickness and glue in place. Then drill a hole thru dowell part and tap it with a 6-32 tap. Insert 6-32 bolt to the desired length and add a self tapping nylon control horn. Completely adjustable and very durable.
If its a built up surface insert ablock of balsa in the horn area and then drill it out.

Control horn installations..
 

EXCELLENT, Toymaker ! Just SUPER ! The old K.I.S.S. method is always BEST !! ;)

Ugo

just to add my idea
 

i fly primarily small planes up to .40 size but has had the same problem in the past.
what I do now is use the GPcenter mount for engine mounting.
is use this to make the first hole through the horn serface at the same time . them I put the screw through the both. then I do as previously mentioned and catch the back plate. I just catch it but I don't bring it all the way down.now I align the horn and with the tool make the second hole. not drive the screw to the back plate. with the back plane off the serface you can manuver the proturding screw to the plate if needed.
ONE THING i NEVER DO IS USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW. THEY ARE TOO HARD TO KEEP THE SCREWDRIVER ON. I LIKE PHYLLIPS HEAD SCREWS ONLY.
what used to take for ever now only takes a few minutes.

Control horn installations..
 

I use those socket head cap screws now... I like 'em even better than the philips screws....

Try this method!
 

Use a Tee pin and stick it through the dubro control horn and through the balsa and then through the control horn retainer. Do this for each of the holes. If the pin misses the hole on the control horn retainer when you poke it through the balsa, pull it half way back and adjust the angle until you get it to go through the control horn retainer. Now you have a guide for your holes, so use 1/16 inch tubing and sharpen and edge on one side. Put it in your drill and then over the pin. The pin will guide the tube for perfect alignment every time!
Moot

That's a Moot point...
 

Sorry I couldn't help myself. Pete

Control horn installations..
 

Rocketman612 - LOLOLOL :) that was funny I gotta say!

Moot - great tip!!! Might use that in our magazine if you don't mind.

Aligning control horns
 

After almost destroying my profile, I learned a quick and easy way to make it work.

I use double sided tape on both halfs of the control horn, eyeballing their location and then use a T-pin to start a small hole from one side to the other. When I have the T-pins conpletely thru, I use the GP engine mount locator and enlarge the holes. Like a previous poster I never use flat head screws anymore. The screw driver slips off and rips the covering (from experience). This takes very little time and resourses and it's easy to do.

Control horn installations..
 

Sorry for entering this post so late but I was wondering if it would be safe to do away with the back plate if you cut out the covering where the horn goes and use 30 minute epoxy on the horn and wood with wood screws that go into the control serface. I am talking about a thicker control surface not a thin one. Do you think the epoxy would hold? If so then the top surface would look good because of the lack of back plate.

Control horn installations..
 

flapbreaker: Depends on how thick your surface is, the screws are going to do the majority of the holding . If you made the screw holes much larger than the screws & filled the holes with epoxy & then installed your horn ,I would think that they would hold. If it comes out don`t blame me!! A plywood inlay would make me feel better. Hope your not working on a 1/4 scale!!>>>>>>>>>>big max 1935>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Control horn installations..
 

no I am working on a modeltech p-47 60 scale. I probably will just stick to the nylon backplate though. Not a plane that I really want to experiment on. I was just "brian" stormin and was wanting others opinion. The aileron thickness is about 1/2 or a bit thicker. Thanks for the thoughts.

Control horn installations..
 

Good thinking! I`m proud of you. Go to the head of the class!
>>>>>>>.big max 1935>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Control horn installations..
 

interesting thread - very useful.

my question is this - do you absolutely need plywood inlays for where the contol horn is attached to the aileron? i'm building the bte venture 60 and i dread having to somehow cut a chunk out of the aileron to install the 1/16 ply for the control horns (dual wing servo design). would hardening the area with CA be sufficient? if not, then i think i'd rather try installing pieces of either a wooden or nylon dowl and epoxing that in there like someone suggested. at least then you can drill uniform holes instead of trying to cut halfway thru the balsa to inlay the ply . . .

any input would be appreciated as always

boneman

Control horn installations..
 

Boneman, Just build it according to the instructions..... If it was a problem area , It would have been mentioned in these threads many moons ago ! I've been flying my 4* 60 which is basically the same plane for a few years now with no problems. Just harden the area with some CA. ;)

Ugo

INLAY
 

I use a circular saw blade in my Dremel and cut a slot in the edge of the control surface as deep as the blade will go. Depending on the thinckness of the material one, maybe two slots for thicker. Then cut a piece of ply to fit the slot much like a biscut joint in wood making. Then you can drill down into this and get a good hard point for you control horns. I use c.f. rod epoxied in and then use a titanium end glued into that for the control horn and use the self threading control horns that are easy to adjust and replace if needed.

just another way....

Wayne

Control horn installations..
 

the inlay part IS part of the instructions that Bruce put out for the dual aileron modification - that's why i'm asking if it's really necessary heh :) i would think that i'd be ok without the inlay since the balsa is fairly thick and durable there and there is a backplate to those horns, but dunno . . .

Control horn installations..
 

Boneman .... I put down fiberglass tape on my airleron mounts to harden the mount point on my venture. It worked just fine ... and the mount points held up well even after the beatings I gave that bird! :)

Bo