Clear Coat Question
 

I am in the final stages of a 1/4 scale build. The Fuse is glass cloth over balsa, filled, primed and painted. I want to put a layer of clear coat over the paint, but am not sure if I should put the decals on before the clear coat of after. Will the clear coat harm the decals in any way?

Thanks

manks

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

I would test it on a sample decal first. In some cases the clear will damage the decals.
In any case it may be best to do a few light mist coats first, just to be sure.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

I use only vinyl decals or painted patterns. The overcoats that I have used include polyurethane oil and water based. Acrylic enamel works well to. I agree, test first to make sure and light coats will work wonders with a problem decal.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

Test a decal (or some scrap decal material 1st with the clear coat. If everything is OK, then put the decals on and clear coat. The BIG advantage to clear coating AFTER the decals are on is that it seals all the edges of the decal. I hate it when 6 or 7 flights/cleanings later a decal starts to lift because stuff got under an edge.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

thanks for the tips!

Campy - I am sure you do not remember, but about 16 months ago when I started my Chipmunk project you provided some great information on Fiberglassing, I used it, and it has turned out great! I owe you for that!

Manks

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

Glad I was able to help out. That is what this is all about, helping each other out.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

If it's a solvent based paint, the solvents will attack the decals. If it's a two part paint, the reducer MAY or MAY NOT attack the decals. In either case, test it first, decals are expensive. It's not necessary to test the decal but the carrier. If there is an edge large enough to paint or a place where you have cut the decal out, use the scrap. If it's going to be a problem, it will happen right away. Wrinkling will start as soon as the reducer or solvent hits the decal. Vinyls have the same problems so be careful and test first.

If you're going to have a problem painting, it will be with clear paint.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

FWIW - I print my own decals on an inkjet printer. I clearcoat mine with Ultracote or Lustercrap clear. I apply 1 "mist" coat, when that is dry (usually 8 - 12 hours) I apply a second heavier coat. I have not had any problems doing it like this.

If you are using commercial decals, DEFINITELY do a test piece 1st.

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

Campy, what do you print on? Paper or plastic?

RE: Clear Coat Question
 

I use waterslide decal paper. I get it from Bel Decal http://www.beldecal.com/ Be aware there is a clear AND a white background paper. If you use a laser printer they also have paper for that.

I have never tried printing on plastic.