1:10 "Blue Streak" Monster Truck & Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
03-27-2009, 08:35 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 05:16 PM
Been away playing with the Big Boy toys of the broadcasting world, but now I'm back on "The Blue Streak".
Did a little spring mod using these:
http://www.hobbysuperstore.com/browse.cfm/4,1233.html
TRAXXAS SPRINGS, PROGRESSIVE ULTRA SHK
Item #: TRA4957R
Your Price: $8.00
The installation seemed simple, and straight forward...
STEP #1: Unscrew screw/pin that compresses shock assembly.
STEP #2: Remove that screw/pin from the assembly so you only have the spring, cup, and lower shock assembly, and swing out for access.
STEP #3: Replace the stock black spring with the softer progressive rate spring by pulling the top cap off and pulling the stock spring off of the lower shock assembly. NOTE: Make sure you use the longer springs in the back and the shorter springs in the front. Then slide the new spring down over the lower shock assembly, and replace the top cap.
STEP #4: Swing the assembly back into place. You will feel the cup reseat in the groove.
STEP #5: Reinsert the screw/pin you removed and screw back down until finger tight. NOTE: Make sure you do no over tighten the screw/pin or you will strip out the plastic threads in the lower shock assembly.
Here is a before and after comparison on the back springs...
Repeat for the other 3 points.
Here is the final product...
Now I need to know where I can find better shock assemblies because I saw the oil ones in the shop, but they did not have the proper attachments for the lower mounts as this truck uses this pattern...
...with the pin extending out and mounted into the frame, but the shocks in the store use this pattern...
...with a screw coupling everything together in the bushings on top and bottom, also, no pin shooting up from the center for removal and floating.
Any suggestions as to where I can make such a purchase? Any suggestions on how to mod these? Can anyone think of anything better?
Been away playing with the Big Boy toys of the broadcasting world, but now I'm back on "The Blue Streak".
Did a little spring mod using these:
http://www.hobbysuperstore.com/browse.cfm/4,1233.html
TRAXXAS SPRINGS, PROGRESSIVE ULTRA SHK
Item #: TRA4957R
Your Price: $8.00
The installation seemed simple, and straight forward...
STEP #1: Unscrew screw/pin that compresses shock assembly.
STEP #2: Remove that screw/pin from the assembly so you only have the spring, cup, and lower shock assembly, and swing out for access.
STEP #3: Replace the stock black spring with the softer progressive rate spring by pulling the top cap off and pulling the stock spring off of the lower shock assembly. NOTE: Make sure you use the longer springs in the back and the shorter springs in the front. Then slide the new spring down over the lower shock assembly, and replace the top cap.
STEP #4: Swing the assembly back into place. You will feel the cup reseat in the groove.
STEP #5: Reinsert the screw/pin you removed and screw back down until finger tight. NOTE: Make sure you do no over tighten the screw/pin or you will strip out the plastic threads in the lower shock assembly.
Here is a before and after comparison on the back springs...
Repeat for the other 3 points.
Here is the final product...
Now I need to know where I can find better shock assemblies because I saw the oil ones in the shop, but they did not have the proper attachments for the lower mounts as this truck uses this pattern...
...with the pin extending out and mounted into the frame, but the shocks in the store use this pattern...
...with a screw coupling everything together in the bushings on top and bottom, also, no pin shooting up from the center for removal and floating.
Any suggestions as to where I can make such a purchase? Any suggestions on how to mod these? Can anyone think of anything better?
03-27-2009, 08:36 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 06:10 PM
Originally posted by THErcnoobie:
one of the most common mods you can do to your suspension is remove the top piece of plastic.
but what is it that you want your suspension to do. flex, be super sensitive,....ect.
one of the most common mods you can do to your suspension is remove the top piece of plastic.
but what is it that you want your suspension to do. flex, be super sensitive,....ect.
03-27-2009, 08:37 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 06:17 PM
I want to be able to jump this truck over ramps and allow the truck to have enough give so that it doesn't bounce 1,000 times and end up on the roof when it lands. The stock springs were so rigid, the truck had no give in the suspension. It was like doing a belly flop in the pool. Horrible results.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME:
I want to be able to jump this truck over ramps and allow the truck to have enough give so that it doesn't bounce 1,000 times and end up on the roof when it lands. The stock springs were so rigid, the truck had no give in the suspension. It was like doing a belly flop in the pool. Horrible results.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME:
03-27-2009, 08:38 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 06:21 PM
Originally posted by THErcnoobie:
LOL, i saw that once at a local pool except it was a fat girl and a high diving board.
so yeah remove that piece of plastic and your rig will have more clearence. in others words it will be able to absorb more impact.
LOL, i saw that once at a local pool except it was a fat girl and a high diving board.
so yeah remove that piece of plastic and your rig will have more clearence. in others words it will be able to absorb more impact.
03-27-2009, 08:39 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 06:27 PM
Beautiful... as for the shocks themselves, keep them or ditch them??? What would be the best option? I need softer landings.
Beautiful... as for the shocks themselves, keep them or ditch them??? What would be the best option? I need softer landings.
03-27-2009, 08:40 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 06:32 PM
Originally posted by THErcnoobie:
I'm not sure if you should stay with your springs or get shocks.i never used shocks before. that you would have to ask loulou. in my opinion i would stay with springs.
I'm not sure if you should stay with your springs or get shocks.i never used shocks before. that you would have to ask loulou. in my opinion i would stay with springs.
03-27-2009, 08:43 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 07:27 PM
[quote]Orignally posted by: texx
KE4QPF ..
Good work on the spring / shock .. good explanation .. and good presentation ..
###########################################
shocks .... idea
LOOK THIS .. Pics of my crawler .. THEMAN
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/3451091715
SEAND .. SHOCK ..
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/6771083433
FLAPDING SHOCK ..
Flapding Telescoping Shock Special
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/6531081102
Flapding Mods are GREAT!
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/4301061554
SAME STYLE ..
############################################
But ((oil shocks)) are the best .. :-)
[quote]Orignally posted by: texx
KE4QPF ..
Good work on the spring / shock .. good explanation .. and good presentation ..
###########################################
shocks .... idea
LOOK THIS .. Pics of my crawler .. THEMAN
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/3451091715
SEAND .. SHOCK ..
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/6771083433
FLAPDING SHOCK ..
Flapding Telescoping Shock Special
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/6531081102
Flapding Mods are GREAT!
http://rcboards.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...1/m/4301061554
SAME STYLE ..
############################################
But ((oil shocks)) are the best .. :-)
03-27-2009, 08:45 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 10, 2009 10:41 PM
OK guys... thanks for your suggestions. I'm trying to think up a way to adapt the designs you've come up with into something with lasting effects. So far, I like loulou's flapding ideas with the use of the eye bolts. I'm just trying to figure out how he keeps them from backing off the frame pegs at the bottom of the shock assembly. I see some wire wrapped around up in there... I can probably use the big loop at the end of the the hitch clips I used in the earlier projects to accomplish the same goal. Removal of the top caps seems to be key. Obviously, oil shocks are an expensive proposition and springs can be changed out much more cheaply and efficiently. A little KE4QPF know-how can alter the flapding design to allow the spring rests at the bottom of the design to move up or down with the turn of a wrench, a flat washer, and one flange nut on each side. A lock nut at the top can be used to alter ride height.
Here's my mock-up... let me know if you think this will fly:
NOT TO SCALE. See dealer for details. Not applicable in all 50 states. May cause cancer in California (sorry, rcnoobie... but with everything else needing the sticker only in California, it was bound to happen ). Tax, tag, and title extra. Limited time offer. Expires 2-30-2009. Copyright 2009 KE4QPF. All rights reserved, with the exeception of those rights I care not to reserve. Made in USA of Chinese components.
Not liable for death , dismemberment , loss of livelihood (there's Viagra for that ), loss of ability to reason , or the sudden case of explosive diarrhea ... cha-cha-cha!!!
If you're wondering how I figured out so much, Science Channel just aired how shocks were made on "How It's Made". Here's the clips...
Now that you know "How it works"... check out "How It's Made"...
courtesy: Discovery Channel/Science Channel
Intro [Part 1 of 3 of entire show]:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pumsBL2TNaM
Continuation [Part 2 of 3 of entire show]: Shock clip starts at timecode: 3:46
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09nDT...eature=related
End of show [Part 3 of 3 of entire show]: Shock clip continues here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e3Zq...eature=related
OK guys... thanks for your suggestions. I'm trying to think up a way to adapt the designs you've come up with into something with lasting effects. So far, I like loulou's flapding ideas with the use of the eye bolts. I'm just trying to figure out how he keeps them from backing off the frame pegs at the bottom of the shock assembly. I see some wire wrapped around up in there... I can probably use the big loop at the end of the the hitch clips I used in the earlier projects to accomplish the same goal. Removal of the top caps seems to be key. Obviously, oil shocks are an expensive proposition and springs can be changed out much more cheaply and efficiently. A little KE4QPF know-how can alter the flapding design to allow the spring rests at the bottom of the design to move up or down with the turn of a wrench, a flat washer, and one flange nut on each side. A lock nut at the top can be used to alter ride height.
Here's my mock-up... let me know if you think this will fly:
NOT TO SCALE. See dealer for details. Not applicable in all 50 states. May cause cancer in California (sorry, rcnoobie... but with everything else needing the sticker only in California, it was bound to happen ). Tax, tag, and title extra. Limited time offer. Expires 2-30-2009. Copyright 2009 KE4QPF. All rights reserved, with the exeception of those rights I care not to reserve. Made in USA of Chinese components.
Not liable for death , dismemberment , loss of livelihood (there's Viagra for that ), loss of ability to reason , or the sudden case of explosive diarrhea ... cha-cha-cha!!!
If you're wondering how I figured out so much, Science Channel just aired how shocks were made on "How It's Made". Here's the clips...
Now that you know "How it works"... check out "How It's Made"...
courtesy: Discovery Channel/Science Channel
Intro [Part 1 of 3 of entire show]:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pumsBL2TNaM
Continuation [Part 2 of 3 of entire show]: Shock clip starts at timecode: 3:46
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09nDT...eature=related
End of show [Part 3 of 3 of entire show]: Shock clip continues here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e3Zq...eature=related
03-27-2009, 08:47 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 05:18 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
great work bro your truck is very cool.. the shocks as loulou has sai oil are the best these friction shocks are very poor no matter how much you mod them , they just dont have any damping force and the chassie just bounces around untill the spring decides to settall not what you need for a monster truck , normally these are the first thing i replace on a r/c . of course you will need to fabricate your own shock mounts , not so hard to do , as with most things on these newbrights the work is mostley custom . thanks bro .. http://www.redrc.net/2007/09/jammin-...ock-absorbers/.................... http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/troub...s/shockoil.htm
great work bro your truck is very cool.. the shocks as loulou has sai oil are the best these friction shocks are very poor no matter how much you mod them , they just dont have any damping force and the chassie just bounces around untill the spring decides to settall not what you need for a monster truck , normally these are the first thing i replace on a r/c . of course you will need to fabricate your own shock mounts , not so hard to do , as with most things on these newbrights the work is mostley custom . thanks bro .. http://www.redrc.net/2007/09/jammin-...ock-absorbers/.................... http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/troub...s/shockoil.htm
03-27-2009, 08:48 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 08:31 AM
WOW... thanks for the advice, Nat. It looks like your solution is the most sound, as far as impact stresses go, but most complicated for modding with a Monster Truck. No matter what I do in Photoshop with the oil shocks, I just can't seem to figure out a way to keep them from rattling around. The shocks on the Monster Truck need to be turned almost 90 degrees in the opposite direction you show in your examples... with the rake degrees usually shown on a chopper in the rear, and on a Harley in the front.
This necessitates me using the original bottom post extending from the frame...
...and the horseshoe mount coming off of the top of the frame.
Positioning is key to getting the forces to position themselves properly. Even if I made a mod to try to get the eyes of the oil shocks into the horseshoe mount and onto the post, I just think any type of mod would cause the shock to rattle as it wouldn't be secured to the frame itself, thus stressing out the modified pieces. If I ran the shocks at angles, as your demos show...
...I'd have to alter the travel paths of the shocks, thus making them diagonal 90 degrees to what is currently there, and less capable of taking that huge frontal hit you'd get from squaring up with a car.
Crawlers are a little different than Monster Trucks due to the stresses on a crawler coming from the corners randomly, and it usually twists the suspension. Monster Trucks usually take all of the force head on, and then when they land, square in the back. The front shocks work in tandem with one another, just as the back ones do. They don't work independently from one another as you'd expect from a crawler, thus giving you all those crazy pivot points you guys show in your pics.
Please try to convince me that these oil shocks will somehow mount using what I have for frame components, or I'll have to resort to the mod I posted above.
WOW... thanks for the advice, Nat. It looks like your solution is the most sound, as far as impact stresses go, but most complicated for modding with a Monster Truck. No matter what I do in Photoshop with the oil shocks, I just can't seem to figure out a way to keep them from rattling around. The shocks on the Monster Truck need to be turned almost 90 degrees in the opposite direction you show in your examples... with the rake degrees usually shown on a chopper in the rear, and on a Harley in the front.
This necessitates me using the original bottom post extending from the frame...
...and the horseshoe mount coming off of the top of the frame.
Positioning is key to getting the forces to position themselves properly. Even if I made a mod to try to get the eyes of the oil shocks into the horseshoe mount and onto the post, I just think any type of mod would cause the shock to rattle as it wouldn't be secured to the frame itself, thus stressing out the modified pieces. If I ran the shocks at angles, as your demos show...
...I'd have to alter the travel paths of the shocks, thus making them diagonal 90 degrees to what is currently there, and less capable of taking that huge frontal hit you'd get from squaring up with a car.
Crawlers are a little different than Monster Trucks due to the stresses on a crawler coming from the corners randomly, and it usually twists the suspension. Monster Trucks usually take all of the force head on, and then when they land, square in the back. The front shocks work in tandem with one another, just as the back ones do. They don't work independently from one another as you'd expect from a crawler, thus giving you all those crazy pivot points you guys show in your pics.
Please try to convince me that these oil shocks will somehow mount using what I have for frame components, or I'll have to resort to the mod I posted above.
03-27-2009, 08:49 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 10:13 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
hi bro i understand you will need to drill and tapp for these ball connectors , these are what most shocks attach to , use some small L shaped steel brackets on the tob secure with bolts . and thread the ball connectors in place , you can also put a small nut at the back of the ball connector , lots of different types and sizes . just a idea .. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXGJ31
hi bro i understand you will need to drill and tapp for these ball connectors , these are what most shocks attach to , use some small L shaped steel brackets on the tob secure with bolts . and thread the ball connectors in place , you can also put a small nut at the back of the ball connector , lots of different types and sizes . just a idea .. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXGJ31
03-27-2009, 08:51 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 10:15 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
or you could also use L shaped brackets on the botton two and attach the ball connector ..p,s the angel is not of great importance aslong as the shocks run straight they will work .
or you could also use L shaped brackets on the botton two and attach the ball connector ..p,s the angel is not of great importance aslong as the shocks run straight they will work .
03-27-2009, 08:52 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 10:36 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
here are oil shocks fitted to my bonzer and also a tamiya notice ball type connectors screwed into shock towers plz ignore the dimensions this was made for a different forum .thanks ,
...
..
here are oil shocks fitted to my bonzer and also a tamiya notice ball type connectors screwed into shock towers plz ignore the dimensions this was made for a different forum .thanks ,
... ..
03-27-2009, 08:56 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 10:41 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
also here a new shock tower was made from steel and shock brackets made with bolts and spacers for the mounting points of the shocks 1/6 scale newbright bug , thanks
........
also here a new shock tower was made from steel and shock brackets made with bolts and spacers for the mounting points of the shocks 1/6 scale newbright bug , thanks
........
03-27-2009, 08:57 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 11:04 AM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
this link may also help . http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...80675&id=21600.. it has been a fault of this forum for a long time to promote these toy friction shock moded or not they are very poor and can not compete with the oil shocks of today ... thanks
this link may also help . http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...80675&id=21600.. it has been a fault of this forum for a long time to promote these toy friction shock moded or not they are very poor and can not compete with the oil shocks of today ... thanks
03-27-2009, 08:58 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 11:13 AM
Thanks for the suggestions, Nat, but I'm not good at tap and die... I actually suck at it. I'll keep your ideas on the back burner, so should the progressive springs not do the trick, I have a plan B. With this much work put into the thing, and it still having somewhat of a stock look, I don't want to start putting a bunch of brackets on and holes in the thing and risk hosing myself in the process. It's not that I don't have full faith in you, it's just that lou's ideas seem to keep with the original stock appearance and do not require any additional holes or bracketing. I did some thinking over of your design, and thought if I go through this much work, it would be worth it to put a bit more metal into it than you originally suggested in the ball connector posts.
Thinking from this pic you provided...
-Flange mounted machine bolt replacing bottom support to mount bottom mount of shock... lock nut will hold shock against bolt head
-U bracket hung from doughnut mount upside-down with holes in legs to receive through-bolt and nut for top mount of shock
Mock-up:
Thanks for the suggestions, Nat, but I'm not good at tap and die... I actually suck at it. I'll keep your ideas on the back burner, so should the progressive springs not do the trick, I have a plan B. With this much work put into the thing, and it still having somewhat of a stock look, I don't want to start putting a bunch of brackets on and holes in the thing and risk hosing myself in the process. It's not that I don't have full faith in you, it's just that lou's ideas seem to keep with the original stock appearance and do not require any additional holes or bracketing. I did some thinking over of your design, and thought if I go through this much work, it would be worth it to put a bit more metal into it than you originally suggested in the ball connector posts.
Thinking from this pic you provided...
-Flange mounted machine bolt replacing bottom support to mount bottom mount of shock... lock nut will hold shock against bolt head
-U bracket hung from doughnut mount upside-down with holes in legs to receive through-bolt and nut for top mount of shock
Mock-up:
03-27-2009, 08:59 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 11:21 AM
Originally posted by texx:
Very good information .. NAT ..
It is likely that in those days, we were only made some small improvements to the crawler, without too much investment ..
and also pleased to invent and develop, tricks ..
But today, I know that the oil shock is the best solution ..
Very good information .. NAT ..
It is likely that in those days, we were only made some small improvements to the crawler, without too much investment ..
and also pleased to invent and develop, tricks ..
But today, I know that the oil shock is the best solution ..
03-27-2009, 09:01 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 11:33 AM
Originally posted by texx:
We wanted our crawlers have a long flex ..
So flapding and seand, presented their ideas .. and me, I had the idea of my long stem shock on YELLOW-CRAWLER .. And they are still in place ..
As NAT ..
To really have the maximum performance of the crawler, the (((OIL SHOCK))) are the best solution ..
Their work is done in both directions, and you will come out Winner ..
We wanted our crawlers have a long flex ..
So flapding and seand, presented their ideas .. and me, I had the idea of my long stem shock on YELLOW-CRAWLER .. And they are still in place ..
As NAT ..
To really have the maximum performance of the crawler, the (((OIL SHOCK))) are the best solution ..
Their work is done in both directions, and you will come out Winner ..
03-27-2009, 09:02 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:04 PM
Originally posted by: yaleforscale:
thanks loulou for your word,s and KE4QPF..thanks .. i only put ideas forward that have been proven either on a track or of road situations for the most of the time these ideas fit in the cattogorie of hobby grade , as this was my mane hall of fame years ago . and these ideas have been carried forward to these newbright.s i am lucky that i have a comparison , for most guys on here they dont and this is very much a introduction to r/c , they then later on progress to hobby grade r/c and find the difference is paramount , also is the cost . these r/c can be made great or just good the desicion for this lies with the owner and how far they are prepared to go with these models .some times the cost of some upgrades can put the owners of. it is true these days parts are not cheap and upgrades must always be cost effective , my short list for upgrades are as follows 1 oil shocks 2 steel roller bearings .3 replacment of electronics and batterie ..this includes hobby servo .. in my mind the rest is trivial . but this is how i see it not all will agree , thanks guys /..
thanks loulou for your word,s and KE4QPF..thanks .. i only put ideas forward that have been proven either on a track or of road situations for the most of the time these ideas fit in the cattogorie of hobby grade , as this was my mane hall of fame years ago . and these ideas have been carried forward to these newbright.s i am lucky that i have a comparison , for most guys on here they dont and this is very much a introduction to r/c , they then later on progress to hobby grade r/c and find the difference is paramount , also is the cost . these r/c can be made great or just good the desicion for this lies with the owner and how far they are prepared to go with these models .some times the cost of some upgrades can put the owners of. it is true these days parts are not cheap and upgrades must always be cost effective , my short list for upgrades are as follows 1 oil shocks 2 steel roller bearings .3 replacment of electronics and batterie ..this includes hobby servo .. in my mind the rest is trivial . but this is how i see it not all will agree , thanks guys /..
03-27-2009, 09:03 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:10 PM
Thanks for the words Nat and loulou, please take a look at the oil shock mock up mounting I made and tell me if this is a viable mounting. For now I'll run with loulou's idea that I improvised, and run with it since it's the easiest and will allow easier changes of ride height, spring compressions, and spring densities. When I get some confidence up (and mroe importantly, run time in) to see how the improvised loulou mod works, I'll keep it if I like it, or move to the improvised mod Nat came up with if I don't. It's always good to have options, and I thank you for being here to bounce the ideas off of in terms of stability of build designs.
Sorry to be bugging the living hell out of both of you.
I'm hoping the mods I'm coming up with out of your ideas are worthwhile and not a pile of thread crap. Let me know what you think of these mods...
KE4QPF spring shock mod:
KE4QPF oil shock mod:
Thanks for the words Nat and loulou, please take a look at the oil shock mock up mounting I made and tell me if this is a viable mounting. For now I'll run with loulou's idea that I improvised, and run with it since it's the easiest and will allow easier changes of ride height, spring compressions, and spring densities. When I get some confidence up (and mroe importantly, run time in) to see how the improvised loulou mod works, I'll keep it if I like it, or move to the improvised mod Nat came up with if I don't. It's always good to have options, and I thank you for being here to bounce the ideas off of in terms of stability of build designs.
Sorry to be bugging the living hell out of both of you.
I'm hoping the mods I'm coming up with out of your ideas are worthwhile and not a pile of thread crap. Let me know what you think of these mods...KE4QPF spring shock mod:
KE4QPF oil shock mod:
03-27-2009, 09:04 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:19 PM
Originally posted by texx:
I respect every member in their choice of mods for their work on their crawler ..
Do your best, and good fun ..
PS ..
KE4QPF ..
Tried your idea .. it will be a pleasure for you and give us the results .. :-)
KE4QPF ..
With your system, you can have a stiff spring or soft spring ..
I respect every member in their choice of mods for their work on their crawler ..
Do your best, and good fun ..
PS ..
KE4QPF ..
Tried your idea .. it will be a pleasure for you and give us the results .. :-)
KE4QPF ..
With your system, you can have a stiff spring or soft spring ..
03-27-2009, 09:06 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:22 PM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
KE4QPF .THANKS, the mock up does look good , but you will only realy know when the truck is in motion . a back up plan is always good , normally a shock has to solid fixed points at either end , thanks ... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...80817&id=26162....
KE4QPF .THANKS, the mock up does look good , but you will only realy know when the truck is in motion . a back up plan is always good , normally a shock has to solid fixed points at either end , thanks ... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...80817&id=26162....
03-27-2009, 09:07 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:24 PM
There's always lock nuts and washers for spacers!!!
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
...normally a shock has to solid fixed points at either end , thanks
...normally a shock has to solid fixed points at either end , thanks
03-27-2009, 09:09 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 12:29 PM
Originally posted by yaleforscale:
yip spacers are good bro ..
yip spacers are good bro ..
03-27-2009, 09:10 PM
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RE: 1:10 "Blue Streak" MAX Electric Truck & 1:10 Aflac "Monster Tires" Car
Posted January 11, 2009 05:55 PM
OK guys... it didn't come out quite the way I had planned, but worked nonetheless. Home Depot sucks anymore for REAL hardware, so I had to make due with what I could find... Lowe's was even WORSE! Here's the assembly, and it was just in the knick of time too. It looked like the plastic was just about ready to give up on me...
Assembly Instructions...
STEP #1: Remove the old shocks from the truck using the steps shown previously in this thread.
STEP #2: Run the #10 - 24 3" Long bolt through the doughnut mount hole on the truck frame.
STEP #3: Position the Progressive Rate Spring so that it snaps and holds into place in its grove on the bottom of the doughnut mount.
STEP #4: Use your fingers to push up on the spring using the 3/16" hole, 1-1/4" wide Fender Washer while holding the head of the bolt with your thumb.
STEP #5: Secure the compressed spring and washer assembly by threading on the #10 - 24 Wing Nut. Make sure you move the assembly up the bolt enough to position the next steps in place.
STEP #6: Thread the #10 - 24 3/4" long Coupler down onto the 3/16" eye 1-1/2" long Eye Bolt allowing just enough thread at the top to secure the Eye Bolt to the 3" Bolt you just positioned.
STEP #7: Thread the Eye Bolt/Coupler assembly into the bottom of the 3" Bolt assembly to make one continuous piece.
STEP #8: Move the Wing Nut down or up the 3" Bolt to adjust the tension of the spring and its travel rate.
STEP #9: Move the eye of the Eye Bolt onto the lower mount of the truck frame making sure you slide it in far enough that you can complete the next step.
STEP #10: Secure the Eye Bolt in place on the lower truck frame mount using a Tie Wrap and cut the tail off with a precision cutter. Make sure the Tie Wrap you use has a head big enough to prevent the Eye Bolt from backing off the lower truck frame mount.
There you have it, and with less hardware! Total cost of the hardware: US$10. Total installation time: about 15 minutes.
I'm just wondering if the springs are OK sliding around on the washer like that, or if I should do soemthing to hold them in place!?!? Any ideas? I was thinking about putting this on top of the washer to provide more grip and less slip...
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+501959+90002
OK guys... it didn't come out quite the way I had planned, but worked nonetheless. Home Depot sucks anymore for REAL hardware, so I had to make due with what I could find... Lowe's was even WORSE! Here's the assembly, and it was just in the knick of time too. It looked like the plastic was just about ready to give up on me...
Assembly Instructions...
STEP #1: Remove the old shocks from the truck using the steps shown previously in this thread.
STEP #2: Run the #10 - 24 3" Long bolt through the doughnut mount hole on the truck frame.
STEP #3: Position the Progressive Rate Spring so that it snaps and holds into place in its grove on the bottom of the doughnut mount.
STEP #4: Use your fingers to push up on the spring using the 3/16" hole, 1-1/4" wide Fender Washer while holding the head of the bolt with your thumb.
STEP #5: Secure the compressed spring and washer assembly by threading on the #10 - 24 Wing Nut. Make sure you move the assembly up the bolt enough to position the next steps in place.
STEP #6: Thread the #10 - 24 3/4" long Coupler down onto the 3/16" eye 1-1/2" long Eye Bolt allowing just enough thread at the top to secure the Eye Bolt to the 3" Bolt you just positioned.
STEP #7: Thread the Eye Bolt/Coupler assembly into the bottom of the 3" Bolt assembly to make one continuous piece.
STEP #8: Move the Wing Nut down or up the 3" Bolt to adjust the tension of the spring and its travel rate.
STEP #9: Move the eye of the Eye Bolt onto the lower mount of the truck frame making sure you slide it in far enough that you can complete the next step.
STEP #10: Secure the Eye Bolt in place on the lower truck frame mount using a Tie Wrap and cut the tail off with a precision cutter. Make sure the Tie Wrap you use has a head big enough to prevent the Eye Bolt from backing off the lower truck frame mount.
There you have it, and with less hardware! Total cost of the hardware: US$10. Total installation time: about 15 minutes.
I'm just wondering if the springs are OK sliding around on the washer like that, or if I should do soemthing to hold them in place!?!? Any ideas? I was thinking about putting this on top of the washer to provide more grip and less slip...
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+501959+90002