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I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

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I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Old 02-20-2012, 11:36 AM
  #51  
pyromatic177
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

ok thanks. im getting batts with banana plugs so i need to get a transfer cable that goes from deans too banana
Old 02-20-2012, 11:57 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Not a big soldering fan?

I don't blame you. Soldering these 12 gauge wires anymore is just ridiculous.
Old 02-20-2012, 11:59 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Yeah and i don't really know how to solder. i have the concept of it. haven't actually tries it
Old 02-20-2012, 12:00 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

ok thanks. im getting batts with banana plugs so i need to get a transfer cable that goes from deans too banana
You shouldn't do that.
Old 02-20-2012, 12:03 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

Yeah and i don't really know how to solder. i have the concept of it. haven't actually tries it
It isn't that hard to learn how to solder. If you are always running electrics soldering is something you need to learn how to do anyways..
Old 02-20-2012, 12:31 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

yeah i know. Just wondering though is why no transfer cable. is it bad or something?
Old 02-20-2012, 01:22 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

It's just another point of failure, another point that can come unattached and another point of electrical resistance in a high power system. Also, it lengthens the cable lengths which can lead to undesired rubbing, etc. and an otherwise messier appearance.

If executed properly you could run adapters and they will work.
Old 02-20-2012, 01:36 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

O ok. well that really stinks cause i already ordered them. Oooops
Old 02-21-2012, 05:45 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Every time you have a connection (EC5, TRX, Deans, etc) there is an increase in resistance/drop in conduction of electricity.  In other words, more of the current is lost to heat each time you send it through a connector. 

Along with all the other things Dale mentioned.  I agree with him, you can make it work.  But like t9 said, as easy as it is to solder, why add resistance and rob power?


Old 02-21-2012, 06:43 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
Old 02-21-2012, 06:52 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
I use a cheap radio shack special. I think I paid $15 for it, has two heat ranges - 15w and 30w. [link=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062730&retainProdsInSession=1]Radioshack soldering iron[/link] Turns out the online price is $12.

The most important thing to soldering, especially big gauge wire: Flux. Get some really small electronics solder (which does have flux in it) and a small tin of flux. I always flux my two wires first, then tin them with solder, and then soldering the two together is super easy. I use heat shrink tubing over the joint to seal out moisture and debris, and it looks nicer.

I like to solder hot, so I usually use the 30w setting for most jobs. It itsn't bad practice to get a few chunks of big wire to practice on before making the crucial solder joints on the car wiring.
Old 02-21-2012, 07:25 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
Old 02-21-2012, 07:27 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

I agree that flux really helps the process. There is so much information online anymore, if you search for soldering on youtube and on google you can probably get some really good lessons.
Old 02-21-2012, 07:47 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: t9dragon


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
I disagree to a point. I used a 22w iron for a long time, and recently bought the 15w/30w iron. I've used a big 200w soldering gun, and I've used soldering attachments on a propane torch. Out of all of them, I find 30w is probably the best. If you're dealing with something like 2-4 gauge wire, then I can see 50-60w being better. I'm by no means an electric r/c expert, but I dont think they're using 2 or 4 gauge wire for the high-current connections.

I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
Old 02-21-2012, 07:50 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


ORIGINAL: t9dragon


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
I disagree to a point. I used a 22w iron for a long time, and recently bought the 15w/30w iron. I've used a big 200w soldering gun, and I've used soldering attachments on a propane torch. Out of all of them, I find 30w is probably the best. If you're dealing with something like 2-4 gauge wire, then I can see 50-60w being better. I'm by no means an electric r/c expert, but I dont think they're using 2 or 4 gauge wire for the high-current connections.

I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
It is all a matter of opinion. I prefer 60w and you prefer 30-45w.
Old 02-21-2012, 07:53 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Ok awesome. now what's flux?
Old 02-21-2012, 08:37 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

ORIGINAL: t9dragon


ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


ORIGINAL: t9dragon


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
I disagree to a point. I used a 22w iron for a long time, and recently bought the 15w/30w iron. I've used a big 200w soldering gun, and I've used soldering attachments on a propane torch. Out of all of them, I find 30w is probably the best. If you're dealing with something like 2-4 gauge wire, then I can see 50-60w being better. I'm by no means an electric r/c expert, but I dont think they're using 2 or 4 gauge wire for the high-current connections.

I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
It is all a matter of opinion. I prefer 60w and you prefer 30-45w.
Fair enough. I was looking at the OP's perspective of good but cheap..


ORIGINAL: pyromatic177

Ok awesome. now what's flux?
Flux is basically a soft paste that is a mix of chemicals that makes the solder stick better. There's an explanation of how it works here or wherever else you feel like googling: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_%28metallurgy%29
Old 02-21-2012, 09:54 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

O wow thanks dude
Old 02-22-2012, 06:32 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

Here are the long awaited pictures of the system installed in the Summit. I am pretty damn impressed with Hobbywing's stuff.



Old 02-22-2012, 06:34 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

I was so impressed with Hobbywing's stuff that I put a 10T EZRUN system in my daughters e-savage. Her truck inherited the chevy body and the e-maxx is getting another one painted up.



Old 02-22-2012, 08:34 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble

Here are the long awaited pictures of the system installed in the Summit. I am pretty damn impressed with Hobbywing's stuff.



Awesome man. Have you done anything sweet with it yet?

Old 02-22-2012, 08:57 AM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble

I was so impressed with Hobbywing's stuff that I put a 10T EZRUN system in my daughters e-savage. Her truck inherited the chevy body and the e-maxx is getting another one painted up.



Did you have to replace any gears in the E-Savage to run brushless?
Old 02-22-2012, 11:49 AM
  #73  
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...


ORIGINAL: t9dragon

Did you have to replace any gears in the E-Savage to run brushless?
The e-savage does have its limitations. While I think the diffs are designed ok, I carefully shimmed both diffs after blowing out the rear diff recently. I also added emaxx/tmaxx 2.5 half shafts. The traxxas half shafts connect right to the e-savage axles and outdrives and only need to be cut slightly to fit. I also run the slipper a little loose and keep the gearing conservative.

On the power side, I won't run over 3s in it and I turned the punch control down a bit on the ESC.

The thing is very fast and quite enjoyable with 2s or 3s.
Old 02-23-2012, 05:46 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...



looks Sweet!!! nice job

love black on black with chrome.



ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble

Ok, the Summit got its new body. I was in an airbrushing mode this weekend. Honestly, I thought a blacked out body would look so good on this, I just shot it with a single color and I LOVE it.

Old 03-22-2012, 04:17 PM
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Default RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...

A few more updates.

The 3905 E-Maxx got a better fitting body.




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