Asmodi

Hmm how to vent this frustration I now feel for this truck.........

Hmm another time... Anyways I have once again grenaded my transmission doing some extreme driving (driving up and down the street), destroyed the forward output gear and the reverse output gear as the forward and reverse primaries are both RPRs Metal ones they seemed to have made short order of the nylon ones.

Now I have done a search and it didnt provide what I was looking for, so Ill ask here and see what I can get, I wanted to stay away from all metal unless all Ti, otherwise the rotational mass of it all will start to effect the performance of the truck, but I think part of the problem with my transmission is that the Trans housing has become soft, or warped just enough that there is either to much flex, or too much play within it and allows the mesh to become off therefore destroying the gears.

So my plan is to FOC the tranny, as I almost never use reverse and when I try to Im usually too stuck that it doesnt help :P, and/or replace most of the gears within the tranny with delrin upgrades. A few weeks ago on another computer I found a site that had these gears on custon/ larger shafts to reduce flex. However I cannot seem to find them with my simple searches or memory.

So if any one has an idea's on how to "bulletproof" my tranny with gears, a quality tranny case (probably UE), and ceramic or high-q bearings for it, let me know, or know what site it is above that I am talking about let me know, I do remember that the gears in the picture were blueinsh in color, on this mystery site.

Hope my rambling makes since, the frustration is clouding my mind....

Dr.ArmoMaxx

I would suggest buying the HardCore trany case, then the supermaxx FOC gears, a lots of ppl run them with powerful engines, what engine are you using?

P.S. this is what you really need, lol

Asmodi

Yeah I've seen that in your previous posts, its to bad that company went out of buiz, otherwise Id pick that up.

Ever think of giving Golden Horizons or whatever that company is an email with pics of that tranny and trying to maybe convince them to manufacture it, I think if there was enough support they would pick it up.

Asmodi

Just thought about this, does the FOC kits get rid of the jerkiness of the truck, does more power get the wheels quicker?

jefx

Yes, it eliminates the internal clutches.

fhm101

Not all of them. You still go freewheel when you get off the throttle. The only way to get rid of all the internal clutches is to go single speed.

jefx

OK, I'll rephrase it.









Yes, it eliminates the internal clutches that cause the jerkiness, and the power gets to the wheels quicker.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

I've heard that going to an aluminum CASE is totally unnecessary, and in fact adds a LOT of weight.

The stock case is plenty stiff & strong...I've NEVER heard of any meshing problems due to flex or anything (like the diff cases).

But the GEARS....that's another story!! A FOC conversion w/quality gears IS a great upgrade.

But stick 'em in the stock case!!!

Dean

Running_On_E

First off,, You still have your forward / reverse installed, YANK that garbage out ASAP.. 10 to 1 thats the cause of your trashed gears,, ( the forward/reverse mechanics are not a smooth clutch.. , they actually slap open and lock into place causing a slamming effect thru your whole drive-train. Also,, once the f/r is removed, i would go back to all plastic.. they last longer then the metal to plastic combo.. Also,, lighten your clutch, will cause high revs, before opening, (better take off ) but when you hit the breaks it will release sooner. And when you have a lighter clutch pads, the clutch will slip if you have a sudden impact on the drive-train.

fhm101

I've been running stock gears and cases in both 2 speed (with FOC) and single speed in my race trucks for several years (on the 2 speed) without a single failure. I've had a single speed since a couple of months before the sportmaxx was released and it too has been 100% trouble free. The key to keeping your transmission, and the rest of your driveline from getting hamered is proper slipper adjustment. I've seen locked, or too tightly adjusted slippers trash a perfectly good driveline in a single day of racing.

Running_On_E

Fhm101, Sorry to disagree with you but I dont think that slipper has as much of an effect as you may beleive, I run two T-maxx, both of which have had there Slipper spring removed, and the nut tighted 100%, I did this because the spring was causing my spur gear to be all wobbly, I dont think it will even slip.. Now as for the transmission, ive had it since Oct 2003, only had one problem with it, was when a metal bearing seal fall out and got ran thru the gears, Even after chewing on this metal, i didnt need to replace the original plastic gears, and still run them today. But the one thing we all have in common is that fact that we have a FOC.
Just to be clear, I do agree that a proper Slipper adjustment is recommended, I just dont agree that its the main reason the transmission keeps stripping gears. I personaly believe it is the FOR mechanics that is to blame.

Anyone out there with a FOC, who has had serious Transmission problems please drop a line!!!

R/C Madman

My Feedback: (1)

I have 2 tranny's one with F/R and the other FOC. Both are moded with metal and plastic gears. The FOC is Supermaxx Super 6 with the UE Nitro input gears in my Supermaxx and that thing is bombproof and the F/R tranny has RRP aluminum F/R primary gears and a steel top shaft and has lasted for over 1.5 years and still looks new with 6 gallons run time from a Ofna .25 in my XTM converted Maxx.

bubbafien

My Feedback: (1)

throw everything out the window and hear this.

proper slipper adjustment IS crucial. BUT the maxx does not have a slipper. you will need to pick up a Kippster slipper.

http://www.kippster-racing.com/

and a QUALITY, i repeat QUALITY FOC is the best thing you can buy. since you are running small block, pick up unlimiteds Super4 FOC. i have it and it is the STRONGEST stock replacement on the market. it is very cheap also. cheaper than RRP, and only about 1000x times better. it is only about 2-4 grams over stock weight. also pick up the nitro input while you are there...

http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/monmaxx.html

then pick up some boca bearings. they are the best. the reason your gears are failing is NOT your case. it is the shafts. they are made of a crappy/flexy steel that flexes outwards at power. this causes your gears to unmesh and when they come back together they self destruct.

bubbafien

fhm101

It's a free country and we are all entitled to believe what we will, but from my experience in off road racing, a properly adjusted slipper will make or break a T Maxx driveline, including the transmission. I learned the value of a properly adjusted slipper while racing electric buggy and truck, and again racing a XXX NT. Anyone you know having problems with their NT blowing diffs or top shafts does not know how to adjust their slipper and I've proven the same thing with other folks' T maxxs' time and again. The FOC certainly helps, but since the maxx transmission is of the constant mesh type it would eat shift dogs and drums before it would destroy gears if the internal clutches were the culprit. The slipper guards against the sudden change in speed of rotation when landing a jump with the driveline spun up. This sudden stoppage is what strips gears and twists drive shafts and the only way to prevent it is to give the entire driveline some way to slowly ramp down to match the wheel speed once they dig in. In addition to saving your driveline from the above mentioned shock load, the slipper will also take much of the same shock load off your engine clutch as well. In a nutshell, the slipper is the link that allows your driveline from the engine flywheel to the wheels to resynch itself when the engine is overspeeding the driveline. Without it, all of that load will be put on all your meshing parts like gears, drive shafts, and clutch shoes.
I've had friends that could not keep gears or drive shafts in their maxx trucks until I taught them how to build and adjust their slipper clutches.
As for the traxxas slipper not being any good. With 12 plugs in it and the friction plates lightly scuffed, it's as good or better than anything else I've ever tried in a small block maxx. The RRP double disk fades too much when it gets warmed up and allows too much slippage. The Strobe and Kipster units are far too heavy to be any good in a small block maxx. They may work fine with big block power, but with a small block they either slip too much or not enough, there is no middle ground with them behind a small block.
As for a quality FOC, I'm going on 3 years of racing with an $11 Traxxas unit and it's just as tight as the day I started with it.
Please keep in mind my experience is limited to small block maxx trucks. I tried an RG in one of my race trucks and hated it so out it came.
I am currently in the process of building a prototype Pro Hobby Racing extended chassis maxx and I'll be trying the RG in it, so I may have to dust off some of the BB parts that have been gathering dust for the last couple of years. But until breakage proves they are needed I'll stick with what I've learned over the last several years of racing T Maxxs' works the best and lasts the longest.

R/C Madman

My Feedback: (1)

I agree! I still use the stock slipper with 12 pegs with my F/R tranny and as I said before, it has lasted for 1.5yrs while running a big block in a heavy truck and the only thing that I have gone through is stock sliders by twisting them. I also run the Strob slipper on my Supermaxx and that works great as well. Proper slipper adjustment is the answer to protect your drive-line.

jefx

Me. I have a RRP FOC and UE top shaft, and just today I blew out the bearing that holds the front drive output. I don't see how it's possible for it to have fallen out as the shaft runs through the middle of it, but regardless, it's totaly gone, just disappeared.
I also have chewed up a couple sets of 2-speed gears, and it has always been while the tranny was shifting from 1st to 2nd gears. My slipper is set a 1/4 turn out, and the striped 2-speed gears happened while running a Sirio 18. The bearing thing just happened today with my brand new Wasp 21.

MAXXacceleration

UMM... bubbafien, yes the T-Maxx does come with a slipper clutch. Right there in front of your
fuel tank, attached to your spur gear. [:-]

bubbafien

My Feedback: (1)

sorry dude but that is not really a slipper... those pads melt when allowed to slip. that is only meant to slip on impact, you cant use it for controlled slip. and it is not infront of MY tank

bubbafien

MAXXacceleration

I agree, the Traxxas slipper doesn't adjust to well for contolled slip. IMO thats the MAIN reason thr N. Rustler doesn't hook up on the race track. The peg slipper is poor for traction control-powerslides or too much slip.
I run the RRP just for that reason. I'm glad you like YOUR tank where it is.

fhm101

I've never had that problem, melting anything in the traxxas slipper I mean. Mine is not in front of my tank either, but i can adjust it so it will slip for a foot or so on acceleration with no problems at all if the surface I'm running on is slick enough to warrant it.

bubbafien

My Feedback: (1)

yeah i am running 12 pegs now and 1/8 turn out to only obsorb impacts. i have UE CVD's, Super4, OTB 2speed and input, Maxximizer diffs, kippster spyders, so no worry here about the drive train

bubbafien