cardgabe

I figured... there's a lot of TMaxx questions out there, but a ton of different threads also. So I'm making this thread strictly for people to come to and get their TMaxx questions answered.

I just had posted a thread about my TMaxx bogging down at WOT, and figured before that thread gets too much, I should make one for all TMaxx problems because I'm having other issues also.

My steering servo is having problems. It steers wonderfully, but once in a while it'll steer so hard to one side that it actually spins backwards and binds up with the chassis support underneath. I thought maybe the servo was bad and glitchy, so I changed it with another traxxas servo that I had, and it still does the same thing once in a while. To fix the problem I take the head off the servo, turn on the electronics, let it re center itself, and put the head back on. Any solutions to this? Also if you read my thread about bogging at WOT... I still have unanswered questions there. Thank you all for your advice... this is my first nitro and am enthusiastically learning.

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well i have an E-maxx and i made two seven cell battery packs and i was wondering if this will burn up my speed control?

t-maxxrcr586

i have a pull starter for my t-maxx and the ez starter i dont know whic ones better sometimes the pull starts it first pull and sometimes it take like 3 million pulls as with the ez starter it starts quickly.. i like the pull starter for the easy ness just pull the cord and go and no buly on board system and you dont have to charge nay baterieandyone have this problem or any suggestions?

NJ NETS FAN

My Feedback: (2)

I've only been in this hobby for a little under a year but I'd have to say it's probably your servo saver. Buy a new one and see if that fixes it...I think they're pretty cheap too.

Airpressure

No it will be fine
Well it depends, do you bash or race? If you bash I prefer the EZ-start, if you race definatly go with the pull start.

cardgabe

What exactly is the servo saver? I'm not sure why the servo is doing this. Today I turned the electronics on... and was in the process of starting my TMaxx... all of a sudden the wheels just cranked to the side and the servo was jammed against the brace under the truck. I didn't give it any input at all. Even when I take the arm off the servo... the servo doesn't move and it hums like it is working hard. Sometimes it works fine though? I have a few OLD Traxxas Hawk's... which have the same 1018 servo or whatever the number is... so I will try using one of those maybe. They're just old.

cardgabe

Ok, I figured out the cause of my servo problem. The servo is locking up because there's a problem with my transmitter. I've tested different servos... they all do the same thing. I tested an old Traxxas (2 channel) transmitter and it worked good. Also when I hit the reversing switch... the servo turns and locks in the opposite direction... therefore, i have a problem inside my transmitter, right?

Does anyone know how to fix this? Or do I have to buy a new transmitter?

gschofield

Hello, I recently bought a t-maxx and I'm having some trouble. After initial break-in I started to tune and I have had nothing but trouble. I've taken it back to factory setting several times but nothing. My problem now is that when I pinch the fuel line the machine revs up after about three or so seconds and dies...good, but when I hit the gas it bogs and then goes. Top speed seems to be fine but the thing is over heating. After about a half a tank of gas the engine starts to bog down and go slow, then it stalls. No matter how rich I run it it still does this. Traxxas support said to check the pipe and the line going to it, which I did and everything is fine. Again, factory setting don't seem to help. Once the engine cools it will start again. Please, anyone help.

cardgabe

gschofield,

I'm not sure what to tell you about that problem... I just got my TMaxx a few weeks ago also. Mine was kinda bogging at wide open throttle... but that ended up being too lean... I richened it up and its running good now... I just don't know the signs of "too rich".

I do have a problem though... my hose that goes from my exhaust to the gas tank to pressurize it... it sends the exhaust through it and is turning my fuel a darker yellow color in the tank. Is this normal? When I put my fuel in... its almost clear, when I'm about halfway through the tank, its yellow like urine... not to be gross. Any ideas? or is this normal?

Gullwing72

Mine stays the same color through the whole tank I believe (now don't hold me to this) there is a filter in the muffler for that reason. I am new to this too, but the guy at the LHS said something about a filter in there. Now if that helps I don't know............GW

cardgabe

I don't think my exhaust has a filter in it for that. I got the truck from a friend and the exhaust is aftermarket. There's not even a nipple to put the pressure line onto. There's just a hole in the muffler that you shove the line into. Maybe I need to look into a new exhaust? Is my fuel bad for my truck if it's getting exhaust fumes into it?

Gullwing72

Yeah I would look into a new exhaust. I don't think the fumes would really hurt the fuel too much but then again I have never had it happen to me so I don't know. You can pick up a stock exhaust on ebay for 10 to 15 bucks or you can go with a better aftermarket for 50 or 60. I am running THS on mine I will let you know how it goes......GW

Airpressure

No its fine to get exhaust fumes into your fuel. If you guys are having tuning trouble check out this site [link=http://forum12.iphorum.com/topic/tuning-faq-s-18.html]here[/link]

This is if your having overheating problems (the first post) [link=http://forum12.iphorum.com/topic/nitro-engine-faq-s-23.html]here[/link]

cardgabe

Thanks for the info Airpressure. I didn't think that the exhaust fumes would hurt my engine... if anything it's just putting a lil excess lubrication through the fuel line? I do have another question though. The owner's manual for my TMaxx (.15 TMaxx) says the factory setting should be 2.5 turns on the HSN. Does this mean that at 2.5 turns it should be running pretty rich? At 2.5 turns, my maxx was cutting out a little bit at WOT so I ended up going to about 3 turns out and it runs great now. Its winter and cold here, so maybe that is why. Also, Its hard to see the blue smoke coming from the exhaust being that its so cold and white out. Other than that, I'm happy.

Also, I was having steering issues, so I ordered a new Tx online... wouldn't ya know it, that same day that I ordered it I took my Tx apart.... resoldered a wire and its working fine. haha Goodluck everyone. I hope this TMaxx troubleshooting thread gets a lot of use so we can always refer back here for info!

hayaboosta

Question : i have a T-maxx and just replaced the clutch bell and spur gear .. how do i realign the two/measure the distance apart so i do not burn up the two gears as quickly again .. Thank you

cardgabe

Hayaboosta,
I think you just want to make sure the two gears aren't pushed together hard. You also don't want them too far apart so they miss each other. As long as they aren't jammed together tight and spin freely... they should be fine I think. That's how it used to be with my electrics... the spur gear and the pinion gear had to mesh good, but not be jammed up against one another. In generally I always had it so there was the tiniest bit of play in them. If they're meshed enough to not skip, but not meshed so much that they barely spin, you should be fine.

hayaboosta

alright cool thanks bud

cardgabe

Well... glad I ordered that new Tx online. I I knocked mine over yesterday and the wire that I soldered came off. I tried to resolder it, but I think its more messed up than i thought. Last night I ran my TMaxx with my old Traxxas Hawk Tx... its only two channel so I just had forward, no reverse. Worked ok though. Goodluck everyone.

hayaboosta

alright another question for you guys .. the spring on the t-maxx spur gear .. completely compressed or slightly loose? was tight from the factory and wobbled so i loosened no more wobble but when running it rev's up really fast w/ no acceleration .. could this be caused from the slipper between the drive gear shaft and the spur gear like the spring needs to be compressed a little more? or is my new clutch bell and spur not aligned correctly? please help!

also how can i tell what the factory settings are on the carb .. i richened and leaned so much i forgot where i started and now its running like do-do .. thanks again

P.S. = "do-do" = will idle good and then when i go to check the temp or adjust the idle it will rev up and take off. to rich/flooding itself? and the whole reving up w/ no acceleration

stevensj

If it's revving high like that and taking off, adjust your idle screw and richen your low speed needle about 1/8th of a turn. i said that backwards. richen the lsn about 1/8 turn (counterclockwise) and your slipper clutch, adjust that bolt ALL the way tight, then back it back about 1/4 turn and run it, then repeat untill you have it where you like it. right now your slipper's just not grabbin, that's why the engines revving with no acceleration. The looser your slipper nut is, the less spinning you have, you don't have to worry too much about uncontrolled tire spin with a 4wd vehicle. Good luck on this!! Tell us more if your idle is still really high, it should be as simple, actually, as i think about it now, just try turning the idle down first, and if you turn the idle down and it seems like it's idling really ruff, or up and down and up and down, lean your lsn about 1/8 turn. If you turn the idle down and take it for a spin and then let it idle and it slowly idles up, richen your lsn about 1/8 turn.

to richen the either of the needles on the car, turn them counterclockwise. To lean them, go clockwise.

Hope this helps out somewhat.

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

I had a kind of the same problem. Turned out to be an Air leak in my fuel tank. If you dont have 100% air tight, any problems may occur. Check to make sure your sealed up all around, the Fuel tank, the Carb and all Fuel lines.

You are correct, tighten that Spring more. The slipper is meant to do just that...Slip...But not to much, sounds like you losened it to much, tighten it little by little. You will see it suddenly not slip, but then you may notice its not tight enough if you do any sort of rough terain or jumps.
Not to sure about your other concerns hayaboosta but check the website for your engine, thay usually have the factory Carb settings right in the open and easy to find.

cardgabe

I think my manual says that factory settings are 2 and a half turns out on the HSN. Keep in mind, I have the Pro .15 in my Tmaxx still (I just got the truck from a friend). I do have a question about these factory settings though. They say that these are to break in... so it runs rich. Does this mean that I when running my HSN will most likely always be leaner than 2.5 turns out? My Tmaxx seems to be lean at 2.5 turns out... so right now I have it opened up about 3 turns or so and it's running great. Is this normal? (its about 20 degrees out too by the way)

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

Absolutly, run your truck where it runs good. The Settings are just a Guideline to fall back on. Your correct in your thinking that as you break it in, you lean it out. The reason for this is as the parts wear in, they begin to fit alittle better, and therefore there is less friction wich of course = less heat, wich of course means less lube needed. But if you can still run it alittle on the rich side and it still runs great, then no worries. As long as your not running the engine to cold, as that isnt good for it either.

cardgabe

Thanks DOG... I just know I don't want to run it too lean. Someone said that if you get the RPMs up and it doesn't shift, it could be a problem with being too rich? I got my rpms up, it wouldn't shift, and it ended up being too lean. I richened it up and it runs awesome. I"m really happy with my TMaxx... even if it just has the Pro .15 in it. I'll be upgrading someday.

cat627f

Does any body know what the stock setting for the trans. adjustment screw. My buddy bought back his t-maxx pro .15 and the guy that bought it off of him really screwed this truck up. One hour getting the carb. back to running condition. Now we have to get the shift point back.