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Mystery part...?

Old 07-22-2007, 09:51 PM
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RaWarrior
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Default Mystery part...?

Just getting back into the R/C world, I had lost interest for whatever reason years ago and recently felt the urge to get back into it. My old truck(don't even know what it was, it doesn't have a body) was beat to hell so I bought a new Stampede. Electric version, I've never been into the nitro stuff. Too much maintenance/hassle, and the Titan motor moves it plenty fast for me. Topped out at about 34 on GPS. Now it does nothing, because it's broken. I've only had the truck a couple weeks, even when new the truck "glitches" once it gets more than about 100 feet away. Like it's sluggish on responding and the motor goes on/off rapidly. So I was ripping down this hill, it started "glitching", and went off the road into a fire hydrant. The glitching wasn't my main problem, though I would like to determine why. Traxxas said it's likely a damaged "X-tal" in either the TX/RX end of things or a defective speed control. Except it works perfectly when nearby, so I dunno.

Anyway, the right front wheel was knocked off. More specifically the piece that connects the suspension arm, the tie rod, and the steering servo broke in half. There's the pivoting piece, think it's called a steering block, held by this "mystery piece". Can't seem to find it in any parts catalog or even what it's called. My steering block is undamaged, though the pin that goes through the center is bent. A "R" is stamped on the front-facing side of this part("L" is on the left one as well...)

What's this piece called, and where can I order one? I used some JB weld to glue it together for now and the car is rolling again, but the steering is a little slow and it pulls to the right constantly(trim barely helps)

Another quick Q.... The manual says compatible with 7.2 or 8.4 volt packs. So I got a 7 cell 8.4, and it doesn't fit. Not even close. I ended up moving the receiver and duct-taping the battery into the tray because it's too dang long. Is there some secret to this? I really like the performance boost from 7 cells, but it's a bit annoying having the battery pop out on every tight corner or inevitable roll-over.
Old 07-22-2007, 11:18 PM
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Compstall
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Default RE: Mystery part...?

Drill holes through the chassis and use zip ties for the battery.
Old 07-23-2007, 07:53 AM
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DaveG55
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Default RE: Mystery part...?

You can see an exploded parts diagram on Traxxas.com in their "Knowledge Center". You should be able to find the part name/number there. You can then get the part at most any hobby shop, either local or online.

When the manual says "compatable" it means that the extra voltage will not burn out the motor or esc. It is not an indication that the battery pack will physically fit because battery packs can be configured in many different ways.

"X-tal" is an abbreavation for the word crystal. Your radio system has two. One in the reciever (rx) and one in the transmitter (tx) and they control what channel you are operating on. They are relitivly delicate and can cause the glitching you are experencing. You really should be more concerned about that than anything unless you want another runaway and more repairs.
Old 07-23-2007, 07:40 PM
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RaWarrior
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Default RE: Mystery part...?

Okay, think I ID'ed the part as the castor block. My attempt to glue it back together worked... for like 5 minutes.

The one listed on the Traxxas site is like $4 but the pic looks nothing at all like the part on my RC and does not include the pin that holds the steering block(which is bent on mine). Anyway, Traxxas asks for up to two weeks for me to get the part. From a previous TH order on parts express, I got it in two days. Browsing through the Tower Hobbies parts catalog, I found an aluminum Integy part for $18 that looks exactly like my broken part.

Worth buying the expensive aluminum ones over the plastic ones? More durable right? I'm half tempted to replace the entire front end with aluminum parts over the cheap plastic stock components.

How fragile are the radio crystals? This truck has taken a few roll-overs(some a bit on the nasty side) but like I said, it was glitching right out of the box.

The manual lists that having the battery too close to the receiver can cause glitching. Right now, the battery is lying on top of the receiver held there with tape.
The two motor capacitors are fine
None of the wires are loose or broken
Motor can't be worn out yet
The manual also lists excessive current, but it only stutters at distances so I don't think that's an issue.

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