warhead666

HEY let me know if this should be on the dark side thread , but any hoot. I cant find an old thread/post that recomended a certain air filter(I think maybe it was a HPI) for a revo w/ a picco26. It's pretty tight between the spur and carb.



ANY HELP.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.

rawiswar

the one i use is the motorsaver airfilter for the revo and gearing is 17/36 so i have the smallest spur gear which traxxas make there could be smaller but i am not aware of them if any

nitrorcjunkie

Yep, MotorSaver makes a filter specifically for the Revo/T-Maxx. I have been using it for a while now, with different spur/CB combos and have had no issues.

warhead666

Im runnin a 40T because that ofna engine mount sucks. Anything smaller (with engine adjusted @ its highest point) won't mesh good w/ my spur/clutchbell. I have heard the Traxxxas BB kit is the way to go.

l3asher

With that mill man you want to run 36/17, and it works perfect with the ofna mount. I also run the HPI air filter and I let the filter rest on top of the tranny case. It clears the spur gear with no problem.

warhead666

which HPI air-filter??? can you send me a link?

rEVOkING

stock revo eats intakes if your chassis is bent. i did it too many times. the saver intake will get eatin also..i had one. it sounds good though. make sure your motor mount and chassis are not bent.

l3asher

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSS8&P=ML]Here ya go bud.[/link]

blackdogafd

im running a motor savor filter and the integy air filter neck and i havent has any problems so far....

warhead666

APPRECIATE IT....


thats the one. I'd seen it on a post a while back. I guess it should be fine w/ a 40T spur. Will the cover where the throttle servo is be a issue?? I know the stock air filter sits in a

specific spot on that cover...



THANX

l3asher

You need to run 36/17 with that motor, if not your missing out on alot. With 36/17 you will still have wheelies on demand and a ton of top end. I let my filter rest on top of my tranny case, with a zip tie on the carb and where the filter goes into the neck. With a 40 tooth spur gear I dont know if the neck will clear it, but really you need a 36/17 combo anyway.

warhead666

sounds like the way to go. thanks for the help.

blackdogafd

i run the 36/16 combo and havent had a problem with contact at all... and as far as my motorsavor filter goes it still sits in that same spot as the stock air filter is and is nice and snug

sm1nts2escape

I have been having the same problem as you.I run the stock filters.The necks get eaten up after a while and it is a pain in the ***** to get the filters on.I too would like to know what can be done to fix this.

cooptroop123

My Feedback: (2)

uhh have you tried changing the angle of your carb

HighClassBasher

I dont see how you guys are having this problem, I have a good 3/16ths of an inch clearence between my spur and my filter neck at the closest point. It would be impossible for them to touch, and i even run a 40 tooth spur gear.
I would check the angle of the carb, check for bent chassis, ect.
You should NOT be having this problem[]

megamaxx

i run a 16/38 combo,with the stock filter in the orig.place,i,ve got a good 1/4 inch,i would have to agree with airevo,somethings out of alignment

NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS

I just found that i have a bent chassis(where the motor mounts) and it only gives me 1-1.5mm of clearance between filter and spur, and the engine is sitting crooked. so im gonna have to get some heat and pliers out and try to bend the chassis back. Also, i might take the tranny out and elongate the screw holes to give me more clearance. I am not very happy

rEVOkING

wait until you start breaking those plastic carbs i went throught 3 carb boddies 15 bucks a pop and 2 motor mounts at 20 each. get a BB conversion and space the flywheel..the kit is 40 bucks and well worth it.comes with hardware and a new flywheel & header.

no matter what the stock air filter will be damaged if you have landed hard on the motor. i went throught two motor mounts and a bent chassis as well. the weak piont is between the front mount and the tranny. i am planning on tig welding a gusset inplace. i have a hight torque throttle servo and it pushes this motor around. the best mod for this is a wing and a ttraxxas BB motor mount kit. the kit actually lets you place the motor back away from the spur about 1/4 inch or more,. the wing saves the motor alot when you land on your roof. i used a body hammer on the chassis and it worked. just be careful. also keep in mind once metel bends it is weaker. so i would suggest keeping an eye on it after you fix it. but the wing should save you from here on out.

NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS

what about using heat to help bend it back? i might get someone to weld a plate on for me(to stengthen mount) later on down the track.

HighClassBasher

Do NOT use heat to straiten your chassis!! Just remove EVERYTHING from your chassis, so you have just a bare chassis. Then build some sort of a fixture to hold it while you straiten it. Depending on where its bent you may be able to just use a table vise to hold it while you straiten it. You can also build a fixture to hold it, and use a hyd hand press to straiten it. It doent take much to bend it back, aluminum is pretty soft. Also cover your chassis with a rag where its clamped in the vice, and also use a rag on your pliers if you use them to straiten it while in the vise. I would suggest some sort of body pliers that dont have sharp teeth on them.
Just whatever you do dont use heat, and dont pound on it with a hammer to straiten it!!

rEVOkING

Hah.. i used a peice of flat stock and a body hammer. worker great. if you bend it with just a vice it will just bend back. after you flatten it heat it up a bit..evenly.... if it is bent to badly go big ..otherwise just vise it lol....depends how good you are..!

HighClassBasher

I am a welder/fabricator (for a living), and I have a degree in Welding Technology (from PSU) which includes Metallurgy classes. I straiten all sorts of chassis and critical parts everyday, everything from r/c cars to tractortrailers. Im telling you, heating and hammering your aluminum chassis will only weaken it more, not to mention it will look like crap from heating/hammering it.[:'(]
If its bent enough that you need to use a hammer and heat, then i would suggest you buy a new chassis, they only cost $40-50.

NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS

geez i'm really confused now. but i think i will go with bending it carefully(watever way) and the maybe reinforcing it with a new bolt-on plate. any more ideas?

rEVOkING

+1