matts6887

Welp....hopefully the outcome of u sending the truck back to traxxas should be a good one(hopefully) and I am sure they will make good on taking care of the problem(s) at hand. They are excellent at doing just that. But good luck with ur other vehicle in the meantime.

JAMBF750

Well my truck is apparently fixed and will be on it’s way home (2nd Day, thanks Lloyd) tomorrow. I should have it in time for the weekend and just in time for my son returning home from vacationing with his mom and grandparents at the beach (I had to work).

The only bad news is; I have to go through the break in period again.

Here is the email they sent saying it was fixed, clearly stating I need to do it again. I will admit, the customer service at Traxxas is A++.


Notes:
REPLACED PARTS LISTED BELOW. ENGINE WILL NEED TO GO THROUGH BREAK IN AGAIN AS PER OWNERS MANUAL.

Parts Used:
5290 - Piston/sleeve (matched set), wrist pin clips(2) (TRX 3.3)

I'll post back when and if I get it through the break in.

Thanks All.
JAM

1150ap

hello im having trouble geting my t maxx 2.5 to jump so it will not go upsidedown and im having trouble getting it to go from revers to forward it takes a couple trys on the controler please help me ( i have had the truck for 3 weeks)

matts6887

Well hope u sure have luck this time around Jamb. I hopefully whatever they did to fix it will have taken care of the problem... good luck with the breakin again too...

JAMBF750

After returning my truck to Traxxas a second time, for the exact same issue as stated below, I finally got it back on Friday. This time, they replaced the piston / sleeve (again) and new carburetor (which I think was the actual problem). So far I'm through the first 2 tanks and all is good. We are going to finish the break in today. It does idle high, but I think that’s because it’s set at factory break in. I'll keep you posted and hopefully we will make it through tank 5.

Thanks
JAM

bigblock454XXL

My Feedback: (-1)

With all due respect, Idles high compared to what? I have a 4908 and it had idled high but I took into consideration that the 3.3 being a small block would idle at a higher rpm since it has a smaller mass to rotate then say my O.S. .21RG. Reason being the .21 is a big block and has a larger mass to rotate in a bigger block. The 3.3 runs well and doesn't overheat. I did have to call Traxxas Support because of the oneway bearing freezing onto the starter shaft during break-in at 7 tanks. They sent me a new back plate, starter shaft and oneway bearing and it's ran flawlessly since.

JAMBF750

The high idle makes it drive by itsel. Again, I will work on this after the break in is completed, I think the LSN will correct the issue. We couldn't get to it today because of rain.

Thanks,
JAM

matts6887

Yes, richening the low speed needle 1/8 turn if u have not already done so, in addition to making sure the idle is set correctly using the idle screw, should indeed help to lower the idle a bit....

bigblock454XXL

My Feedback: (-1)

Oh, I see. Idles high causing it to creep forward. That will help anyone who is reading understand. Thanks for the reply.
Mine did that but I had a good friend helping me tune it and he was able to teach me quite a bit.

emaXXman123

My Feedback: (1)

wow.....this was a very informational post thanks...

im gonna get the new slayer but ive never had a 3.3 only a 2.5 and ive had 4 rebirths of it haha but again thanks

NStampede Freak

Richin the LSN. It will knock the idle right down. On my 2.5R, I have the LSN a full 2 turns out form flush. That is why everybody has such problems with TRX engines. The "factory settings" on the LSN is way too lean. Mine has been running great from day 1. I have 3 gallons on it so far and it shows no signs of dying.

JAMBF750

We got through tank 5 last night after the rain and this truck is running awesome!!!! I found it very difficult to not let the truck switch into 2nd gear while accelerating to full throttle for 3 seconds during tank 4. I guess my finger is identical to my lead foot.

I also noticed that the break in period is a little tuff on the brakes...they don’t work as good as new. This may be an immediate upgrade for me.

I'm going to change the Glow Plug, Air Filter and tune it tonight. From what I understand, if I richen the LSN, I should also lean the HSN. I’m a little worried about tuning it too much because it’s running so good. It’s not overheating and the pinch test will cut it off in less than 3 seconds with a high rev during the shut off. I just want it to stay still (no creeping forward) at idle.

Thanks to all for the good advice.
JAM

RCCanuck

if its running good now....why mess with it??????....tuning a nitro engine is only required when they are not running right or performing right.

Same goes for glowplug...change it when it goes bad.
Air filter should be cleaned and re-oiled after every hour of use or when its dirty.....Always pack a spare clean oiled filter in your tool kit and you can change it and keep bashin.

As for your brakes they may just need to be adjusted a bit to get the bite nack again......You can add a few small pc.s of fuel tubing to the caliper pins to get a more linear feel to them...and or tighten up the linkage...Idealy you want the truck to roll freely when at neutral throttle but as soon as you move the trigger past neutral the brakes are applied.....just turn your truck on work the throttle and brakes and look at the brake linkage set up and eliminate any slop or play

NStampede Freak

It is the other way around. The HSN has an effect on the LSN. I would say that your lsn is a bit lean. Richen it 1/4-1/2 turn and see if that helps.If it runs good at top speed, then leave the HSN alone and just mess with the LSN.

KILL--ROY

When that motor breaks, get the O.S. 21.

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

The HSN will effect the LSN . If the top end is good just adjust the low end, richen it up a little and go from there. You always want the high speed set before you adjust the low so again if it's good as is go to the low speed needle and richen it up a little. Just adjust the brakes like stated above. Actually, all I've done here was repeat the 2 posts above. lol but those guys who posted it are right.

matts6887

Indeed, the above post is right....always adjust the high speed needle first, then do the low speed. But from the sounds of things, it sounds like u may just need to adjust the low speed needle and make it a hair or 2 richer by adjusting it in 1/8 to 1/4 increments(in other words very small 1/4 to 1/2 hour increments). Because sometimes the default reccomended starting point(s), for the needles are too lean.....

JAMBF750

It's running very cool even in the hot weather, i think I'm going to leave it alone, it seems to have setteled down a little. The truck was doing wheelies on demand and then towards the end of the last tank it wouldn't pull them up? Any clue as to why?

thanks
jam

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

I would say the motor was probably a little on the hot side but you said it's running cool. Check the slipper clutch just to make sure it's not slipping too much now. Just a thought. The motor will lean out toward the end of a tank so wheelies should still be there unless again it was getting hot. Others will jump in with other thoughts, just listen to everyone becouse most have good advice.

matts6887

Even if u think its running too cool, there is a chance it could still be running too lean,...because one thing is for certain...u are much much better off to be a little on the too rich side of things then to be on the too lean side of things for obvious reasons....

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Too cool would be too rich right? Too lean would make it run hot. Maybe I'm not catching what you're saying.

matts6887

Too cool would be too rich, yes....and too lean would be too hot...yes

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

This is what had me wondering what you meant.

Lo picc

check the clutch shoes spring could be broken and happened to me and the car would not settle down