Tmaxx basher
 

Hey guys. Ibought a 2.5 for my nephew a while back. Recently I have decided to buy him a brand new 3.3 maxx instead. I am keeping the 2.5 and Iwould like to make it as tough as possible. I have some local dirt bike jumps/course to take it to and its a blast. Last time I went my friend broke the front left a arms. Right now I have abunch of parts on the way I will list them and please let me know if I should need anything else to make this thing withstand the abuse im going to give it. Along with the parts below Ihave a set A arms on the way for the whole suspension, aswell as an onboard temp gauge.

<table bgcolor="#eeeeee" style="width: 1267px; height: 299px;"> <tbody> <tr> <td>INTT3673</td> <td>Integy 20-Tooth Vented Steel Clutch Bell: T-Maxx 3.3</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3635SILVER</td> <td>Integy Aluminum 3-Piece Clutch Conversion (Silver): T-Maxx 2.5 &amp; 3.3</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3693</td> <td>Integy Ultimate <span id="lw_1287506182_5" class="yshortcuts">Brake System</span> w/Titanium Pads: T-Maxx 2.5 &amp; 3.3</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>TRA1726</td> <td>Traxxas Antenna Tube: All Vehicles</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3857NS</td> <td>Integy Aluminum Type II Front <span id="lw_1287506182_6" class="yshortcuts" style="border-bottom: 2px dotted rgb(54, 99, 136); cursor: pointer;">Skid Plate</span> (Silver): T-Maxx .15, 2.5, 3.3, &amp; E-Maxx</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3858NS</td> <td>Integy Aluminum Type II Rear Skid Plate (Silver): T-Maxx .15, 2.5, 3.3, &amp; E-Maxx</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>RRP8572</td> <td>Robinson Racing 72-Tooth Steel Spur Gear: T-Maxx .15, 2.5, Nitro Rustler</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3845S</td> <td>Integy MSR4 Piggyback Shock Set (8) (Silver): T-Maxx .15, 2.5, 3.3, &amp; E-Maxx</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3634S</td> <td>Integy Aluminum Super Duty Type II Chassis Braces (Silver): T-Maxx .15, 2.5, 3.3</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>TRA3149A</td> <td>Traxxas Heat Shield Tubing for Fuel Line</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>TRA3147X</td> <td>Traxxas Fuel Line (2 ft)</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3681S</td> <td>Integy Heavy Duty 7075 Aluminum Front Bulkhead (Silver): T-Maxx 2.5, 3.3, &amp; E-Maxx</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>INTT3682S</td> <td>Integy Heavy Duty <span id="lw_1287506182_7" class="yshortcuts" style="border-bottom: 2px dotted rgb(54, 99, 136); cursor: pointer;">7075 Aluminum</span> Rear Bulkhead (Silver): T-Maxx 2.5, 3.3, &amp; E-Maxx</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td>DYN7686</td> <td>Dynamite T-Maxx .15 &amp; 2.5 Center CV Driveshaft Set</td> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table>

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

That will be a tank haha, i dont think you gotta worry about it breaking with those parts on there. thats like my dream tmaxx.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

That will be a 12 pound aluminum brick. Most here would reccomend staying away from aluminum for bashing. It tends to be pricey, break and once bent aluminum stays bent. Upgrade with high grade plastic if you want to use the truck for bashing. ;)
I recently purchased an Aluminumized Revo 3.3 and one of my stipulations was that the seller had to give me all of the stock plastic. She is now a leaner meaner bashing machine. I've removed all of the extra metal and unshelf queened the truck. It had aluminum bumpers, skids, steering, body mounts, piggy back shocks with super stiff springs, etc and to top it off a steel roll cage. It sure was pretty but it ran like a brick and I wouldn't even want to imagine the carnage a good bashing session would have caused.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

frontrunner,

You unshelfed the queen???  lol  funny</p>

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Loose all that integjunk aluminum. Grab a set of traxxas aluminum bulkheads , chassis braces, and bigbore shocks. Keep the stock skidplates.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

I hate to break your heart, but Integy stuff is bad news. The clutch will be ok if you can get it to work right, and I have the bulks they're decent. Your clutch bell is going to get destroyed by that rrp spur and you may not want the extra weight of the skids. If you have a few more bucks you should get rpm arms and rear carriers or the true track rear end. Then get some lunsford hinge pins and some good shock towers. I have rpm towers, but some people don't like them, I do. Just my .02

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Use Traxxas parts, cheap and best quality.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Thanks for the insight guys. We will see how it goes. Everything should be here within the week. Right when its ready im taking it out for some hardcore bashing time. If something breaks I can just fabricate some new parts, I just need to make a template with the integy parts and work off that. A arms would be easy to fabricate. Shock towers I need to purchase. Weight is not an issue for me. A few lbs is no big deal...im not trying to race just trying to be durable.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Well I hope it works out for ya. Fyi you can get rpm arms andlunsford pinspretty cheap, maybe put the skidplates and spuron ebay to pay for it. Just a suggestion good luck.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

I would get as much RPM parts as they make for the MAXX me and brother swear by RPM parts he does alot of jump comps down in florida and beats the hell out of his trucks.


And to also reply to rooker by "unshelfing the queen" he removed all the "pretty" alumi parts with plastic part or what not a shelf queen is an RC car pretty much just made to keep on a shelt and show off rarely driven.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Exactly. I took the truck from a show truck that was pretty and heavy and slow to a lighter more durable stronger truck to use instead of just something to look at. I agree completely about buying as much RPM stuff as possible. I'm going to do mine 1 piece at a time as I break stuff I'll replace it with higher quality parts. Simple physics kicks in when you add more weight to an rc truck. Hp/weight ratio goes the wrong way. Mass goes up therefore impacts become harder, damage increases. Plastic flexes and returns to it's origional shape untill you reach it's breaking point. Aluminum bends and stays bent. I drive my trucks hard and fly them high.I don't want to constantly be buying or even repairing a bunch of bent up scrap metal.

Best reasons to use pastic parts: Lighter, tougher, cheaper!

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Sounds fun. So these A-Arms I have are stuck in the old bulkheads.... I bought them used knowing that the bulkheads were bent, and 2 of the front upper arms are stuck in the damaged bulkhead. The arms are perfectly fine and not bent but the bulkhead is bent to **** which in turn bent the pins that hold the arms in the bulkhead. I only have a dremel to work with for now, so I have to cut the old bulkheads to remove the bent pins and use the arms. Has this ever happened to anyone else here?

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Today I was planing on sealing my engine, when I removed the engine and tried to crank it turning the crank shaft by hand it felt a little odd. When the piston reaches the top of its rotation it seems to snag on something, its not a smooth rotation. It will turn the whole way but I have some resistance when it gets to the top of its rotation. Oddly enough when I take the head off the engine it will crank smoothly, as soon as I get the head back on it starts to snag again. This is a brand new engine never taken apart before. Its kinda on and off it will rotate smoothly sometimes and other times it will snag. If anyone has any ideas as to why this is please help me out.

Edit: Just removed the head, and replaced the gasket. It seems like the head was screwed on to tight? Which is weird because this is how the factory sent it out....I wont know until I fire it up I guess. But for now nothing snags because I didnt tighten the bolts from the head as tight as factory settings and it seems to be doing the trick. By no means are the bolts loose, just not as tight as before.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...1000000058.jpg
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http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...1000000062.jpg
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Do those wheels look a little off to you? Its weird they look off by the slightest bit...

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Whats up with the last picture? As to your wheels you need to adjust the pivot balls on your hubs and your tie rods.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Sorry about that I did a group upload from my phone that mustof slipped in by accident. Thanks for the information will try it out.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

You really can't over-tighten the head bolts with the traxxas t-handle allen or a round handle. The snagging should be what's known as pinch, or what's left of it. When you put the head on is the plug in it?

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

No the glo plug was not in. When it gets to the top of its rotation it would feel like it was being jammed for a slight second then it would continue to move freely until the next rotation. Its probably me just making it out to be a bigger deal that it is. I still haven't had a chance to start it since I noticed...its been raining in cali lately. I was just curious because this is the first "new" engine I have ever had. Every other engine I have had when I hand crank it it feels smooth, maybe because they were used engines?

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Sounds normal to me. These engines don't have rings, so to make for good compression they have tapered sleeves. The sleeve is made from chrome plated brass, the piston is aluminum. When it warms up the sleeve expands more than the piston, allowing the piston to move up and down more easily. That's 'pinch' in a nutshell. This is why you have to break in the engine....to allow the piston and sleeve to wear into each other making for a precise fit and good compression. It's always good to make sure your engine is at least room temperature when starting, to lessen the amount of stress placed on the internals, mainly the rod. BTW, nice looking maxx.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

Oh. Only reason it seemed weird to me is because with the head off, the piston doesn't reach the top of the sleeve so I was confused as to what was making it feel like that only with the head on. Am I making any sense? I broke this engine in and ran it twice after break in...although I did not have a temp gauge then.

RE: Tmaxx basher
 

With the head off it's probably lifting the sleeve a little when you turn it over. Put on the head, the sleeve can't move up and down with the piston, tightness comes back.