Pull start rebuild
 

Anybody have a suggestion on a replacement pull cord material for a trx pull start? I replaced it once with regular old string and it only last one night. Due to my "custom exauhst springing a leak around the port it melted a small hole in the pull start housing and melted the original string and it snapped. The string did not melt but it broke off at the pull handle. I tried some braided fishing line but it snapped on the first pull. I looked at academy and all they had was too large in dia. to work. I like to fix things myself so not looking to buy a new one just yet. What could I use for a new pull cord?

Oh and for those interested my header is constructed out of 3/8 copper tubing and heat shrink for a tight seal. No more $20.00 headers[:'(][:'(][:'(] I have only put about 2.5 gallons on my latest engine and she sreams like a scalded ape. Wheelies every time if you punch it too hard froma slow roll. She has been holding a tune since break in. Temps are about 225 - 260 depending on if I keep it wound out up and down the straights a whole bunch back to back. Good smoke and steady idle. I don't plan on exploding this one anytime soon. The old engine is still being ran by my bro. The head is now sheared completely off just above the glow plug. Still has great compression and runs around 220 degrees consistently.

I also put on the long travel rockers and I like them allot. Coupled with 60 wt oil and the blue and silver springs it handles everything great. Makes for a nice mix of high speed corningand lifting the wheels out of the apex and handles the rough stuff great. I do adjust the spring preload when doing allot of jumping though. Anyone else run them and like them all around?

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

Fishkilla, careful about too much preload on the springs, it can have a tendency to bend shock shafts easier. It puts more stress on the shocks when the shafts are further out at their least supported position. Got a pic of your exhaust, i would be interested. Been looking for a really good fix for the revo exhaust breaking problem. I have done the side pipe with a big block, was fun, but now I got a nice Charger body and dont want to cut up the side of the body. I have a wing to protect the head and use the O.S header with springs. Using the buku with it mounted down below on the frame. Machined a custom alum. L bracket to hold it to the frame then it goes up to the hanger. I use the old tekno wing mount with proline wing. I use zip ties to hold it back against the bumper for extra reinforcement. Works ok but want something that can really take a hit in the rear like the side pipe set up and nothing moves in or breaks. The tie rods and steering links tend to just transfer the energy to the next part you connect it too. Any innovative ideas welcome.

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

I too have been zip tying the hanger back. The last thing I need is more shock shaft issues. I broke about a dozen or more of them. I don't put much preload on them just enough to keep the front skid from slamming the jump and robbing my momentum.
My exaust is still in prototype stages but seems like it will hold up. I would rather have the ths but I don't like spending the walrus pelts. I rather create and fix everything with scraps and stuff that was not made for it. I will try and get some pics of the header.

No suggestions on a pull cord material?

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

Killa, I hate pulls, sorry. I tried one on my old axial .32 and during break in I told myself na its not worth it. Maybe a yoyo string heh. I got some great ez starter ideas though;)

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

lets hear them ez start ideas!

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

I converted to box start for my jato's and roto for my revo. I would end up charging batterys often to keep a good day or two of bashing for my glow ignitor. Sometimes I would have to check the glow ignitor to make sure its got good batterys or you sit and crank crank and nothing. Then you find its just a blown plug. So was thinking of just going out and buying those C cell ignitors with gauges on them to tell the story real fast. But one day ended up trying to start a old motor of mine that had about 5 or 6 gallons on it and wouldnt start for the life of me. Tried brand new batterys in the glow ignitor and everything. Tried a new plug. Nothing. Next day took my ez start tested the voltage at the plug ends and it showed 1.7 or so volts. Thats more than a reg glow ignitors 1.2-1.5 depending on if your using a rechargeable one. So got some long wire connected the wires to my standard ignitor and used a rubber band to hold the button down on the wand and connected it to the plug and the motor fired up. Could of been flooded too, but have been using my ez starter for a long time now and I like it so much better than any standard ignitor with just reg rechargable batterys. I even have the other two motor wires on the wand hooked up with a terminal for a 7.2 volt. So if my battery dies in my roto I can get a jump off that same battery in my ez start wand. I can easily see if a plug is blown by the light not turning on when its connected, as the battery charge wears out, I dont lose my ignitor power till the very end, I can see if there is a loose connection at the plug by the light, and it ignites cold plugs with no issues, no more low power problems. Lot of guys might have never run into issues with rechargable ignitors yet or if they have they just dont know it. If my wand ever breaks, I would not hesitate to go out and buy a new traxxas wand just to have a reliable ignitor even for all my non traxxas stuff. It effectively eliminates the ignitor power and system as being a problem in hard start situations.

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

If you read this thread carefully, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7661476/tm.htm]link[/link]you will see what I am talking about in terms of the requried volts to ignite a plug hot enough to start some of these older motors. Now read the lable on your rechargable battery for your ignitor and see what volts it is suppose to give off when brand new. After alot of cycles it tends to decrease a bit over time after a full charge.

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_23_110/products_id/16994]This[/link] is the glow igniter that I got, I can start mine and my bros trucks all day! Never once had a problem with it!

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

Man superman!!! that ignitor looks like a pretty good one!!! I have a pretty good one right now, but I may have to consider getting this one if mine ever takes a dive....looks pretty cool man...[8D]

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

It was rec emended to me by people on this website! It works wonderfully I have no complaints at all! I can start 2 trucks all day! You wont be sorry, if you look around on their website ( copy and paste the full name into the search bar ) they have a bunch of different colors!

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

Hey KILLA,
I used the cord from a window shade/blinds, there is usually enough cord there that it wont mess up the operation of the blinds. I did this about a year ago and its still working great.

RE: Pull start rebuild
 

Thanks south I will try that. I used some thin picture wire last night and it seems good but I worry about it fraying and chewing up the pull start. I will try the blind cord.

Mspeed, I am still using my wand for my glow igniter like you are. I like it too as I can see if the plug goes bad.


So far I do preffer the pull start. Easy to rebuild given a good cord material. Less battery needs etc,.

Thanks guys.