William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

A LISTING HERE DOES NOT IMPLY ANY ENDORSEMENT BY RCU OR ASSOCIATED COMPANIES, WARRANTY OF PRODUCTS, OR SUITABILITY FOR ANY USE.

ADHESIVES:
Anchor Seal: http://www.anchorseal.com/
West systems:

CARBON FIBER, SPECIALTY WOOD, and MISC FITTINGS:
Composite structures (800) 338-1278
Aircraft Spruce Specialties (800) 861-3192
Model Research Labs http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/

COCKPIT KITS:
Dynamic Balsa (815) 856-2272

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN FILES:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/dxf/
http://rccadparts.deathkeep.com/

COMPOSITE MATERIALS:
http://www.johnrsweet.com/
www.arts-hobby.com
Fibre Glast http://www.fibreglast.com/
Composite structures (800) 338-1278
Aerospace Composite products http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-cat.htm
The Composite Store (compos) : http://www.cstsales.com/index.htm
Model Research Labs http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/

CONTROL LINE SPECIFIC
Engines and parts: Stuka Stunt Works: http://www.clstunt.com/
Flying wires: McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com
Handles, wires, bellcranks, etc.: Tom's Building Service: http://www.tomsbuildingservice.biz/index.htm


DUCTED FANS:US RC Jet http://www.usrcjc.org/ducted_fans.htm
Hurricane Fans http://www.hurricanejets.com/ducted_fans.htm
Kamdax fans http://www.kamdax.com/main.html
ELECTRIC AIRPLANES AND SPECIALTY SUPPLIES:
Model Air Tech http://www.modelairtech.com/index.html
Electric FAQ http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/efaq.htm#design1
http://www.gwmp.net/
http://www.newcreations-rc.com/

ELECTRIC SUPPLIES, GENERAL:
http://www.cliftech.com/home.html
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/circuits.htm
Batteries, custom: http://www.tnrtechnical.com/
Digi-Key: http://www.digikey.com/
Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/

ENGINE SPECIALTIES:
C. F. Lee Mfg. Co. (818) 352-3766
Darrol Cady www.darrolcady.com
Hypercolor NC Anodizing: http://hypercolornc.tripod.com/
B&B Specialties http://bennettbuilt.com/index.html
Gettig (ignition coils) http://www.gettig.com/coils.html
Ignition: http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

FIBERGLASS PARTS:
- NOTE: Many plans houses supply ‘glass parts also.
Stan’s Fibertech (909) 352-4758
Fiberglass Specialties (586) 677-0213 http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/

FOAM CORES:
Dynamic Balsa (815) 856-2272
J & C Hobbies http://www.jchobbies.com/wing/
BlackFlight http://www.blackflight.com
Model Wings: http://modelwings.com/default.htm
www.Flyingfoam.com.

GIANT SCALE:
The Aeroplane Works http://www.theaeroplaneworks.com
Kett Plastics: http://www.klettplastics.com/pages/1/page1.htm

HELICOPTERS:
R/C Helicopter fever http://www.helifever.com/intro/setup.cfm
Scale Copter http://www.scalecopter.de/

INFORMATION ON (just about) EVERYTHING and LINKS:
Alan’s Hobby Links http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
The Brazing Book http://www.brazingbook.com/
CRRC Paint Match Table http://www.charlesriverrc.org/artic...gpaintmatch.htm
PJ Burke's Page http://home.earthlink.net/~pjburke1/aindex.html
RC Battery Clinic http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/
Blackflight http://www.blackflight.com/rcsearch/search.asp
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/links.htm
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/article.html

LANDING GEAR, FIXED, WING TUBES, SPL HDWE:
TNT http //www.tntlandinggear.com/
Gator R/C: http://www.gatorrc.com/
CF landing gear: http://www.graphtechrc.com/default.asp

LANDING GEAR, RETRACTABLE:
Sierra: http://www.sierraprecision.com/products.html

LASER CUTTING:
Northeast Aerodynamics http://www.ne-aero.com/
Kit Cutters Inc. (714) 962-8100 http://www.kitcutters.com/
Litko Aerosystems, Inc. (219)988-5708 www.litkoaero.com
Caylex: http://www.caylex.com/cutting.html
Tanks Hangar Aircraft Modeling: www.tanks-hangar.com
AKM www.AK-Models.com Email [email protected]

MARKINGS, DRY TRANSFERS, GRAPHICS:
Pro-Mark (618) 524-2440
BS GRAPHICS: 281-890-4033 or 832-606-8607

MISCELLANEOUS BITS AND SUPPLIES:
Air Dynamics http://www.nyblimp.com/
Prestwich http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/gearboxe.htm
Robot links http://www.seanet.com/~erich/robot_links.html
Miniature Precision Components http://www.mpcomponents.com/Default.htm
Aero Protect http://www.aeroprotect.com/ control linkage
Small Parts, Inc http://www.smallparts.com/
Flite Metal (281) 530-5823 http://www.flitemetal.com
Fasteners: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/index.cfm
Oils & lube: http://www.klotzlube.com/
Floats: http://www.flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html

MOTORS:
Astro Flight http://www.astroflight.com/e/env/000...nk=/index.html
Koehler Bros. http://www.koehlerbros.de/newtor/en...ml1/ehomepg.htm
Max-Cim http://www.maxcim.com/order.html
Aevox http://www.aveox.com/hobby.htm

PICTURES, BOOKS and 3-VIEWS:
Zenith Aviation (800) 458- 0454
Bob Banka (714) 979-8058
Indesca http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/manatee/272/
Luft ‘46 http://www.luft46.com/
Aircraft Resource Center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com
Scale Aero (281) 530-5823 http://www.scaleaero.com

PLANS:
Jerry Bates (251) 478-6720 www.scaleaero.com/jerrybates.htm
Dave Platt (321) 724-2144
Nick Ziroli (561) 989-9113 http://www.ziroliplans.com
Rich Uravich (321) 728-0486 www.richuravich.com
Don Smith (561) 989-9113 www.donsmithplans.com
Bob Holman www.bhplans.com
Das Corsair BBS http://corsair.flugmodellbau.de/fil...lan/Bauplan.htm
Airplane Model Plans http://plans.rcmodell.hu/
MeisterScale (336) 562-3700
BlackFlight http://www.blackflight.com
Barry Baxter's Control Line Plan Service: http://www.controllineplans.com/
Stuka Stunt Works: http://www.clstunt.com/
Scale RC Models:www.scalercmodels.com

SCRATCH BUILDING and DESIGN DISCUSSIONS:
Airfoils: http://www.av8n.com/how/htm/airfoils.html
Making spring struts http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tm.asp?m=1101262
Links "Broken" on the rest here, scroll down the thread to following posts.
Lateral balance http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...45&forumid=220
P-factor http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...85&forumid=220
Gyros http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...16&forumid=220
Critical engine http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...94&forumid=220
Pitch stability http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...88&forumid=220
Roll and yaw stability http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...32&forumid=220


SMOKE SUPPLIES:
Ultrasmoke (316) 522-4905
B&B Specialties, Inc. http://www.bennettbuilt.com/index.html
Conley Precision: http://www.perrypumps.com/

TOOLS and TOOL SUPPLIES:
Nichrome Wire http://www.morelectric.com/nichrome.htm
Fibre Glast http://www.fibreglast.com/
Durafix, Aluminum welding http://durafix.com/alu.html
CrankOrgan http://www.crankorgan.com/
Micro-Mark: http://www.micromark.com/

VACUUM BAGGING:
Aerospace Composite products http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-cat.htm
J & C Hobbies http://www.jchobbies.com/wing/
Aerospace Composite products http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-cat.htm

WHEELS & BRAKES, SPECIAL:
http://members.rogers.com/embrocki/GNModelSite/home.htm

WING TUBES, see also LANDING GEAR, FIXED
Carbon fiber wing tubes: http://www.precisionaerocomposite.com/

Keep them coming, please.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Recently published in R/C Report, in Frank Tiano’s “Sporty Scale” column, was a listing of obscure and lesser known sources for this and that, and others that are more commonly known but hard to find.

I think such a listing is valuable, and worth having available to all. Sort of a classified directory for modelers.

So, with the permission of Gordon Banks and R/C Report, (Greatly appreciated, thanks Gordon) here is the start.

I will be the sole and final judge of what to include. Large and well-known distributors, like Hobby People and Sullivan Products, will not be included.

To be listed it must be a source for something useful, but not widely advertised.

These listings will have no advertisement other than by the category they are in, some names may be in more than one category.

The listings are name, phone number, and email if available. Nothing more.

The categories are also subject to additions and changes at your suggestion, or my whim.

Keeping the list current, and making changes/additions will depend on your participation, Please post any additions or corrections needed, I’ll incorporate them into the main list And I will delete your post afterward, please don’t feel slighted, as this is to keep the thread from becoming too long and unwieldy, and making a listing hard to find.

Also, if you are a supplier and want to be included, post your name, what you supply, phone and email data.

A LISTING HERE DOES NOT IMPLY ANY ENDORSEMENT BY RCU OR ASSOCIATED COMPANIES, WARRANTY OF PRODUCTS, OR SUITABILITY FOR ANY USE.

Thanks. Hope everybody finds this useful.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Stability - Lateral balance (post # 1)

Just a short one this time, it's a simple thing.

Had a PM asking about lateral balance and trimming for an imbalance. Basically, this note is my answer.

Nose to tail balance is used to make the plane stable, using downforce from the stabilizer/elevator to control airspeed. If you understand that you are well on your way to understanding lateral balance. But it's not necessary.

If we have one wing heavier than the other, the heavy wing is going to have a constant tendency to drop. Since it is constant, it will not change with airspeed.

But the aileron effectiveness does change with air speed. So the amount of aileron trim that will hold the plane level at one speed will be too much if we speed up. At the same time, it will not be enough when we slow down. Result? Constant change with a change in speed, and we can't trim for it.

Lateral balance is at least as important as fore and aft balance, and has to be much more exact for the airplane to fly at its best.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

P-Factor myths exploded (post # 1)

Gentlemen, and twin builders too:

There are many misconceptions about “P-factor,� and the term is misused more often than not.

First, what it is.

When the airflow enters the propeller disc at any angle other than 90 degrees, we have P-factor effects.

For purposes of this discussion we will say our taildragger airplane sits on the ground with the nose pointed up at 15 degrees. We will also say the propeller pitch is 15 degrees, just to simplify things. Now, with the nose up 15 degrees, the prop shaft is also pointing up 15 degrees. Now, when the propeller turns, and the airplane starts its takeoff roll, the rising blade has the 15 degree pitch cancelled by the 15 degree up angle of the prop shaft, and the descending blade has that same 15 degree shaft angle added to its pitch. So, in effect, the descending blade has a 30 degree pitch, and the rising blade has zero pitch. The majority of the pulling power is developed by the descending blade, giving off center thrust, and that off center thrust is “P-factor.� The effect is zero at zero airspeed, and the effect builds until the tail wheel comes off he ground. This is why you have to gradually add right rudder as the airplane accelerates, and neutralize it when the tail wheel lifts, disregarding torque.

When the tail wheel comes off the ground and the airplane assumes a level position continuing the take off run, the air flow into the propeller disc is then on center, P-factor no longer has any effect, because it just isn’t there anymore.

With tricycle gear, and the plane sitting level at rest, there is NO affect on the plane from P-factor. It does not exist. If the plane sits slightly nose down or nose up, there is a small amount, but it’s so small it can be ignored. This is one of the reasons why a trike is so popular for training. Both in full scale and R/C. They are just easier on take off.

In normal flight P-factor will never affect the airplane, as the airflow, in relation to the airplane, never gets more than one or two degrees off axis. Key word here is “Normal� flight. Most aerobatics are done in a normal controlled flight regime.

When doing aerobatics that depart from normal flight, 3d, gyroscopic maneuvers, harriers, and so forth, p-factor can rear its ugly head.

But 99% of what people call P-factor in normal flight is truly nothing but torque reaction, and that’s another story for another time.

I welcome any and all comments pointing out my errors in this, amplifying my statements, or adding something I have forgotten.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Design primer - stability (part one) (post # 1)

Aerodynamic Stability
1) Rigging for Positive Stability.

First, a definition. Rigging, when speaking of an airplane, includes the incidence angles of the wing(s) and horizontal stabilizer, the incidence difference between multiple wings of a biplane or triplane, also correctly referred to as decalage, and to a lesser extent the horizontal displacement of the leading edge of the vertical fin, and the engine thrust line. Collectively referred to as the rigging.

This discussion will not include the rigging, just the aerodynamics of a plane properly rigged for positive stability.

Wolfgang Langeweische, in his book “Stick and Rudder,� said that power controls altitude, elevator controls speed. In an airplane rigged for positive stability, and trimmed for level flight at a given power setting this can be used as an effectively true statement. Increase the power with no other changes, the plane climbs, decrease the power and it descends. Even with no knowledge of the aerodynamics that sounds logical, and it’s easy to accept. The other side of the coin is a lot harder. Push a little down elevator, and while there will be a slight dive, the speed will come up and the plane will come back to level flight at a higher rate of speed. Conversely, pull a little up, and again, there will be a slight climb, but level flight again will be attained, this time at a lower speed. That’s the hard one to accept.

It’s all caused by the way the airplane is rigged. And for we who play with R/C, this is mainly the trainer type aircraft. Aerobatic planes will be a later discussion.

The wing, at a given angle of attack, (AOA) will support the plane in level flight at one particular airspeed. Any slower and it descends, any faster and it climbs. So when we increase power without changing the angle of attack we climb, decrease power, down she goes. To go faster in level flight, the AOA has to decrease, to go slower, the AOA has to increase. And this is where it gets tricky

The horizontal stabilizer is not a lifting surface. It actually pushes the tail down, working against the wing.

Why, you will ask, would we want to waste some of our lift that way? The early designers would have asked the same question, because they did have lifting surfaces, and flying the early planes wasn’t much easier than balancing a needle on a pin point. If you are ever offered the opportunity to fly a Curtiss “June Bug,� a “Wright flyer,� or similar airplane decline with thanks.

But back to the horizontal stabilizer. We have seen that the main wing needs a set airspeed to maintain level flight at a given angle of attack. By having the center of lift behind the center of gravity, the plane has a natural tendency to drop the nose. When it does the air speed picks up, the increased air flow over the stabilizer generates more down thrust , the tail drops, and the plane assumes level flight with the nose weight and the down force of the stab balanced. So we cut the power, the plane slows down, we lose some of the stab’s down force, the plane noses down until the airspeed comes back to get more down force, and we are descending at the same airspeed we had in level flight. Now add power. The airspeed increases, the down force increases, the tail goes down and we are climbing. The rate of climb will increase until the airspeed reaches the point where, once again, the down force equals the nose weight, and we have a stable climb. All at the same airspeed. So, by changing the power level we have not made a lasting change in air speed, we have merely changed from level flight, to a descent, and back to a climb. All at the same airspeed.

N.B.There are exceptions to the stab with downforce, notably free flight models that do use a lifting stab, but the exceptions are outside the purview of this discussion, we ‘re going to ignore them.

So you now ask, how do we change air speed?

Once you understand the relation of power to rate of climb this part is a LOT easier. If you don’t understand that part you can continue, maybe this part will give you the insight you need, or you can go back and study the last part some more.

Remember the wing? At a given angle of attack (AOA) it will generate enough lift for level flight at one particular air speed. How about changing the AOA? If we decrease the AOA it will need a higher airspeed to support the plane. Conversely, a higher AOA will support the plane at a lower air speed. So, if we want to go faster, how do we decrease the AOA? Right. Push in a little down elevator. We lose some down force, the nose drops, the airspeed picks up until the down force stabilizes things again, level flight at a higher airspeed. To fly slower use a little up elevator. Yes, we get more down force, the nose goes up, and when things stabilize again we’re in level flight at a lower airspeed.

So now you see it. Power controls altitude, elevator controls speed.

Yes, I know that’s an over simplification, but let’s all get this down before we get into complexities. Besides, we still need to look at roll and yaw stability, as well as thrust line matters first. This is enough for one lesson.

I welcome any and all comments pointing out my errors in this, amplifying my statements, or adding something I have forgotten.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Design primer - stability (part two) (post # 1)

Aerodynamic Stability
1) Rigging for Positive Stability. (Part two – roll and yaw)

Roll and yaw stability are much easier than pitch stability, and the easier of these is yaw.

Consider an arrow. If you have, or have access to a hunting bow and a hunting arrow, unscrew the tip and nock the arrow backwards – with the fletching in front of the bow. Shoot it at about a 45 degree up angle. Not too hard, or it will reverse too fast for you to see. But reverse it will, before it has gone far at all the feathered end will be at the back end, where it’s supposed to be, and it will be flying “Straight as an arrow.�

Now look at a side view of your airplane. The fuselage is the shaft of the arrow, the vertical fin and rudder are the fletching. So long as there is more side area behind the center of gravity than in front, the airplane will be stable in yaw.

Roll stability is a little more involved, but still easy with a bit of explanation, so long as we are talking about our trainer type airplane. And let’s start with a low wing trainer, the Sig Astro Hog or similar. A lot of dihedral.

Put the wing on your floor, with one panel actually flat on the rug. Mark the tip location with one hand, and with the other rock the wing so that the other panel is now flat on the floor. The vertical projection (straight down area) of the wing you marked got about 2 inches shorter. And since the air is lifting vertically, the projected area is what counts. The low wing has more effective area, the air will give more lift there and that wing will be “Pushed up� more than the high wing. When the wings come back to equal angles you have equal projected area and equal lift on both sides – roll stability. The more dihedral the more stable. Up to a practical limit, of course.

“So why is my J-3/J-4/182/(whatever) stable with just barely enough dihedral to see?� That’s why we started with a low wing and a lot of dihedral. With the high wing the dihedral effect is greater, because the center of lift is above the center of gravity, and the pendulum effect comes into play. That part should be obvious. We also have the fuselage masking a part of the wing when the airplane is banked, and this also adds to the dihedral effect. And many high wing airplanes also have a lot of dihedral – the Goldberg “Eaglet,� for example. And most two and three channel airplanes, without aileron control, have high dihedral angles whether they are high or low winged.

I welcome any and all comments pointing out my errors in this, amplifying my statements, or adding something I have forgotten.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

"Critical" engine in a twin assumes both rotating in the same direction.

With both engines turning counter clockwise, viewed from the front, the right engine , viewed from the pilot's seat, has its off center thrust and torque reaction adding to aggravate the tendency to go left. The left engine, however, has its off center thrust and torque reaction subtractive, so the plane flies more easily with the right engine dead than with the left one out, and the left engine is referred to as "Critical."

With counter rotating engines, and the prop blades going "Down" on the side nearest to the fuselage, torque and off set thrust forces are subtractive on both engines, so neither is "Critical."

The only counter rotating twin I know of with "Reversed" counter rotation is the P-38. Reasons for that are discussed in other threads.

So, if you suspect one of your Saitos is less reliable than the other, so long as they are set for counter rotation, just put them in and go. Being sure, of course, to put the reversed rotation engine on the right side.

If they are both conventional rotation put the less reliable engine on the right.

But I think it would be well to find why one is less reliable, and correct the problem. In my opinion, flying a twin with a known unreliable engine isn't a very smart thing to do.

I always try to use engines that match in total hours and condition on a twin. You might be well advised to do a major on both engines before installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

How to use gyroscopes on an airplane (post # 1)

NOTE: This is a "Cut and Paste" of a post made by Twinman on the "Old" RCU.

Maybe of interest to this forum.
I am not going to get into the usual discussion as to whether the use of a gyro is "cheating" or not. I am only presenting the results of my experiments to give others the choice.

GYRO�S on AIRPLANES!

Rudder Control.
Having trouble with a short fuselage Tail dragger? (Cub, Biplane, Ultimate, Cap, etc.) Does it ground loop during takeoff? Landing? Unexpectedly turn on takeoff, landing, or hovering?
Learn to use the left hand—the rudder!
OK, you never listened to warnings on “Don’t DO Twins� why listen now! Don’t despair! Help is now available, and A. its cheap, B. easy to install, C. it works! The new piezo electronic gyro’s are here. They can be used to stabilize the rudder. And just about every mfg has some, Hobbico, Futaba, JR, and Expert to name a few. I am not talking about “heading lock gyro’s�, those are for the helicopter guys. If you want to see the results of that experiment, let me know.

The following installation involves the use of the Hobbico gyros. This is not to say that the others are not as good or better, I just have experience with this brand for gyros.

Installation is fairly straight forward.
1. The gyro is installed in series between the receiver and the rudder servo.
2. The rudder is centered using the center adjustment on the gyro and/or control linkage. Start with the transmitter trim tabs centered also. The Hobbico Multipurpose gyro must be set up with both; the mechanical center of the servo arm at 50% gain, after it is installed in series with the gyro, or it will only work one way. Use the gyro gain setting first and then the radio if needed or applicable.
3. Make sure to set the “Gain� on the gyro sensitivity to about 50% for initial testing.
4. Check the gyro orientation in the plane for proper action. Mount the gyro in such a way that it will not turn or come loose in flight. (If this were to happen things will get real interesting, real fast.) The proper location is at or very near the C.G., and away from heat and vibration!
5. Turn everything on and check operation. Proper operation can be checked by moving the tail horizontally to the right and observing the rudder movement. The rudder should quickly move to the right also, trying to push the tail back to the left. Its actually trying to re-center the fuselage. If the rudder goes left as you push the fuselage to the right, DO NOT FLY, the action is reversed and will need to be corrected by either using the reverse switch ON THE GYRO, or physically turning the gyro around 180 degrees.
That’s all there is to it GO FLY!

Flight Characteristics
1. Expect to take off in an unusually straight line. In most instances rapid throttle advance will only require minor rudder control or none at all.
2. In flight you MUST use the rudder with the ailerons to turn. If you try to turn, using only the ailerons, the rudder gyro will fight the turn and cause the plane to try and fly sideways. Using the rudder will override the gyro to allow the turn. When the rudder stick is released the gyro goes back into action to stabilize the plane.
3. Unless you can turn the gyro off, using another channel, do not perform rolls or tumbling maneuvers! The gyro will fight the controls and cause a simple aileron roll to become a barrel roll. This can be very scary! Check before you buy the gyro to see if this feature is available. The Hobbico Aero Gyro or Expert does( As does other brands), the Multipurpose gyro does not.
4. Landing will be the easiest experience ever. Come around, line up on the runway, use elevator and throttle to land and roll out straight. This can be done even in a moderate crosswind.
5. If, during flight, the fuselage wags back and forth, the gain is set to high. Land and reduce the gain on the gyro, if the gain cannot be adjusted in flight. If the gyro does not seem to keep the plane tracking straight, increase the gain.
6. Nose high hovering, or hanging on the prop, will become much easier. You will still have to use the ailerons and rudder to control the plane, but it will be much easier to accomplish.
7. Loops will now be straighter and cleaner.
Some additional information and reminders concerning gyros. I have been using the Hobbico line and am well satisfied with the results. The Multipurpose gyro is the straight forward, on all the time, and cheapest thing going. Priced at between $65—$75, it is very effective in trainers, cubs, Telemaster, and generally any plane that you do not plan on doing a lot of aerobatic maneuvers. The next step up is the Expert Gyro, and others. Priced at between $85- $100 it can be turned on and off via another channel. The sensitivity of the gyro can also be adjusted up and down as needed, in flight. This gyro is ideally suited for applications where the ability to turn it off during aerobatic flying is required. Finally, if you have two aileron servos mixed via separate channels, use the Hobbico “Aero Gyro�. It has dual inlets, outlets, and gain control. Priced at $100-$120 this gyro can be used for aileron stabilization (to be covered in future posts).
Since the actual current draw on a gyro is very low, one would think that no additional increase in the battery pack is necessary. This is not the case. Although the draw from the gyro is low the control surface that it is controlling is moving about ten times more than normal, due to the constant corrections being made by the gyro. With this in mind, a larger battery pack would be a good idea. The only way around this would be to reduce the number of flights and keep a regular check on the condition of the flight pack, or use of a field charger between flights. Some of the non piezo type gyros allow the use of a separate battery pack for the gyro only. Futaba used to make one and I’m sure others do also. Do your homework before you buy and do not assume anything. Talk to people that use them to get an idea of what you need. While we are on the subject of battery packs, servo reaction speed is critical for getting the maximum benefit from the gyro. With this in mind going from a 4.8 volt system to a 6.0 volt one will increase the torque output and speed by almost 20%. If you wish to stay with the 4.8 volt packs then you might want to consider the high speed servos for those control surfaces that the gyro controls.Make sure that your gyro is OK to operate at 6 volts. Pull - Pull systems or at the very least a stiffer single rod is recommended as the control surface is now much more useful and demanding of precise movement. Make sure there are NO Z BENDS in the control rods where they exit the fuselage. If your control rods bend, the effectiveness of the gyro will be significantly reduced. Setting the control surface service throws higher will also help gyro effectiveness.

Personally speaking, gyros will do everything noted above. This in effect reduces the demands placed on your skills. Use of gyro’s is actually banned in some competitions. It will also reduce the development of those same skills. They should be used as enhancers rather than crutches to your ability. Remember not every plane or pilot, has to have or needs them.

Twinman

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

In my opinion the most critical engine on a twin is the LAST one left running. It is only gonna get you to the scene of the crash twice as fast as if it quits.
Tommy

I have flown many twins and if you keep the speed up and watch the rudder, you have no problems.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Spinner balancing:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Spin...1115188/tm.htm

M Gill

Just as a "heads up"

I also sell servo lead tubes in 3/4" and 1/2" sizes.

Mace Gill

The Aeroplane Works
http://www.theaeroplaneworks.com
(732)-356-8557

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Wendell Hostetler plans - http://www.aero-sports.com/whplans/

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

General r/c design:

http://www.nextcraft.com/rcdesignandbuilding.html

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

General information:

Alan's Hobbies http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Pilots, scale:

http://petespilots.mysite.freeserve.com/

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Small tools and materials other than balsa:

http://www.smallparts.com/

omcusnr

Good source for 3-views:

HPC Publishing in East Sussex, UK
email: [email protected]

Website: www.airpictorial.com

3-views are mostly 1:72 scale & seem pretty accurate, at least to a couple of plastic models I have. About 8.50 to 9.00 US (prices quoated in sterling)

Quite a range of aircraft from all sorts of countries.[8D]

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Not noted in list above is the Bob Holman has good facilities for laser cutting wood and has been doing so for eight years now. He currently cuts parts for a few of the manufacturers and for individuals. The laser will cut up to 1/2 inch balsa, 1/4 Birch plywood and hold sheets up to 48 inches long. See his advertisements in MODEL AVIATION or telephone him at 909-885-3959 after 2PM PST on week days.

He also stocks fiberglass fuselages, cowls and other parts for large scale model aircraft. These are made up by a friend of his and sold exclusively through BHPLANS.


William Kaminsky

46Marcus

To anyone interested:
I am getting ready to cut a kit of the C-130 with 133 inch wingspan from a set of Palmer Plans. It is just as easy to cut 1-2-3 kits as it is one. Is anyone interested in purchasing the balsa for a kit with instructions to build it? Or would anyone want one built? Contact me, Mark, at [email protected]. Thankyou.

expert_genius_87

hello, nice to meet you here....
i'm new around here so i had a humble question to ask..
actually , i had great interest on building homemade rc plane. but i don't have the knowledge to build it. So, did you know that?
i just want try to build a simple 2 channel air plane. what are the factors i have to get attention to success ?

Lile

Under NIchrome wire you could add:

Lile Engineering
http://www.lile.biz
suppliers of Nichrome wire for the hobbyist and experimenter
Free hot wire foam cutter plans

Thanks!
Lawrence Lile

DOH_Blk_Adder

Thanks Mr. Robison,,,I think...Gads i think the learning curve is more like a helix.. this post of yours will certainly straighten some of those curves out....Carbon Fiber Spar and Shear Web ahhhhhhhhhhhh I don't even know what a Shear Web is...Yet...thanks again
think i'll take a nap now my head hurts from all this info

dicknadine

suggest you ask your question in the Vintage catagory. these fellows are not afraid to answer basic questions, most are still scratch builders. dick

jneesy

kit cutter
laser lizard www.laserlizard.com
also meister scales website is www.meister-scale.com
lots of scale info at www.rcscalebuilder.com

CRAZYRYAN

My Feedback: (1)

[8D]