SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I keep the grain parallel to the length of the surface I'm working on.Just one piece of 1/2 oz glass on the bottom and one on top(no strips)I'll probabily use some strips on the fuse though.

Delta 3

Thank's for the tip. This is my first time with a model of such detail and I want to get I right the first time.

Could you send some photo's if you get time?

Regards

Bryan

onetime173

My Feedback: (71)

RE: IMAC Sound Limits - 1/27/2005 1:01:48 AM


onetime173
A JETS PILOTS CHALLENGE



Certified



Posts: 2
Joined: 7/27/2004
From: new milford, NJ, USA


_____________________________

I have a giant 76in. SHRIKE flown very successfully prop driven glo and ready rigged for a turbine I am in searchof a qualified jet pilot with Jet Cat 70/80 or equal to fly it and be the first.Joe Beshar 201-261-1281 NJ [email protected]

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

FYI: There is a nice Ziroli DC-3 that is for sale in the market Place of RCU. It is about 80% finished and ready for sheeting. Unfortunatly, I must thin my heard of aircraft and this one did not make the cut. Funds are tight, so it must go. It is a great deal waiting for someone.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...2869&cobrand=1

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Steve,
You will do great with the FliteMetal. It is great stuff. I did a Yellow Aircraft P-47 with the stuff and it is VERY nice. It is not as hard as some would lead you to believe. If you remember, earlier in your thread, I was planning on doing the restored Delta DC-3 in the pollished finished. Yours will look sweet! Good luck and I'm going to keep following your build.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Kregg;I've been following that Flite Metal P-47 thread with interest.Man that Delta version would have been sweet.Looks like a good deal on ... that other site.

Delta 3

Does anyone know were to find decals or how to make the to finish a scale Delta DC-3?

Delta 3

Steve,
Have you thought about installing nav lights, and if so were would you find a good set?

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I don't think I'll be doing functinal nav lights however I will have them there in place.I will have functional landing lights that I got from Radio Shack.You can get nav lights from Ram Products.The Delta paint scheme could be painted,or you could get graphics made up I suppose for considerable cost..What stage are you at now on yours Bryan?
I've got my outer wing panels glassed and am just filling the small pinholes etc,centre sections next.You gotta luv sanding....
....still waiting for the Fite Metal shipment also...

Delta 3

Thanks Steve,

I just ordered my wood kit from Precision, and my nose and cowls from Nick.
They said the plans could take up to six weeks( WOW!!!), but they will be worth waiting for.

I will be installing two Zenoah G45's, and my Robart retracks later. (Funds are tight this time of the year)

I really want to cover my DC-3 in Flight Metal, but you wouldn't believe the negativity about it on some of the other threads. (I guess some modelers just don't want to take the time to do the prep work to get the right results) I still will use it regardless.

smokebox12000

Hi All
Recieved plans and nosecone for my DC-3 today from Ziroli { WOW!!}
need to get the engine problem sorted, I have read in this thread about
US 41s are these Quadras, another one is G38s could a kind person tell
me without any doubt which engines are the best fit into the cowls without
too much chopping about.
Thanks
Paul

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Everything from 120 4 strokes to Enya V twin 240 4strokes to Zen-26,Zen -38,US 41,Quadra 35's,BME 44's and more have been used.If I had a couple of Laser 200 V twins I'd fit them in the cowl with minimal cutting,However they are a bit pricey.On the gas side I would go with maybe the G38.The Zenoah's have the small flywheel which allows forbetter dummy engine clearance.Or eleminate the flywheel and the side carberator by going with a rear carb electronic ignition engine.Many many options out there , how about the RC shocase Roto 35,Fugi also has a good 38.One thing about using a G38 or US 41 is they don't look to offensive with an inch of the head sticking out of the bottom of the cowl,just business like.

smokebox12000

Thanks Steve
As usual you are the man, was going with Fuji 32s but they dont have electronic
ignition. Never heard of US41s who makes them?
Keep up the good work Steve
Thanks Paul

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Paul:

US Engines:

http://www.us-engines.com/default.aspx

Probably wont find them over there.

Bill.

smokebox12000

Thanks my friend will try them out
Paul

Hovis

I am also building the Ziroli DC-3. I have got to the stage of wanting to fit the landing lights but am having dificulty finding detail of position & sizes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Dave ;Sorry for takeing so long to respond,I've been busy with other things.I can give you the dimensions I used..My landing light starts 10 1/4" out from the wing route measured along the leading edge.The light then extends another 1 1/2 ".And it is 1/2" deep.You basically have to cut out the leading edge in this area and build a box to support the lamps single or double whichever you prefer.I'm using single led bulbs.You can build the box out of light 1/16 ply or similar material.
I'm back at mine again,both outer wing panels are in primer and am now prepping the centre section for glassing.I'm finding this a long process but the results should be worth the extra time put in .Pics coming soon..

smokebox12000

Hi
Could anybody answer a question for two lads in the Uk? Has anybody changed the Elevator
linkages other than having them stick out through the body of the aircraft to us they look so
out of place we would be grateful for any assistance.
Thanks Paul

Hovis

Thanks Steve. I had already put strengtheners in that area so I will go with your positions. I am just starting the planking, I will try and post some pictures of my progress next time.

Dave

FliteMetal

Hello Bryan:

I've followed Steve's thread watching it evolve. Looking forward to the final "finish" so to speak. Generally, the application issue is not an issue on any large project outside of the fact too many people feel they have to burnish the aluminum longer than necessary to achieve the desired result. Following the baseline instructions for application of Flite-Metal permits the project to move forward quickly. For example, Joe Grice covered a customer's F-100D fuselage between seven am and seven pm recently. On the other end of the spectrum are those who are taking their time replicating an airplane they flew themselves...Charlie Viosca in Frisco, TX. is about to complete his DC-3 for a magazine article.


Wish these were clearer but they were so compressed when I got them I can't improve upon them.

Great thread Steve!

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Great picture Ed;Looks like Charlie did a real nice job,are there more pictures of it available?Did he decided not to apply rivits for some reason or are they going on later maybe?
I got my Flite Metal in a few days ago and can hardly wait to get at it...

FliteMetal

Hi Steve:

Charlie is well into his project. In fact is probably finished. I will post some additional shots, however he took all of them from the same side of the plane. The fiberglass nose piece was all that he had left to do about two months ago. Charlie replicated the plane he flew for TACA in South America.

The rivets had as yet to be applied to the airframe when he took these photos. Rivets for a DC3 are not difficult to do with a toothpick and a crystal clear polymer because it will dry crystal clear permitting the polished aluminum to shine through the stove bolt size rivets that are on all DC3's. If you desire colored rivets that is easy to accomplish as well.

I added another side view taken by Charlie.

bartnop

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Steve,

I've been reading your thread with much interest. Can't wait to see the finished result.

My compliments to Charlie Viosca. Beautiful plane. You should see the pics of the other side with the airstair door open and the galley in view!! Absolutely stunning.

I am also building a DC-3 in scale 1:8. Mine is an epoxy fuselage with foam wings and I will aslo make it civilian. It will be in the colours of the Scandinavian Airline System. You can check my site www.propellor.tv/index.html

I will not use Flitemetal buth litho plate instead. I find that using flitemetal gives the plane a to new appearance. I like mine to look 60 years old, with bubbly panels and small dents and dings.

Good luck on your building.

Bart Nopper, Amsterdam Holland

P.s. I would post some pics but somehow I can't make them small enough to post.

FliteMetal

The appearance of Flite-Metal as it comes from the roll provides the basis for either a polished or dulled finish. The surface appearance can either be left as is in a semi-polished state or it can be finished to any desired lustre.

Most customers will at a minimum use the finishing pad to alter the appearance to a duller state. The finishing pad is packaged with the finishing tools in all AK packaged product.

If desired, the finish can be polished to a mirror finish:

Or a weathered dull finish can be easily acheived with little effort with 600 wet dry and steel wool:

Realistic weathering is simple, fast, and cheap. You can use tea, coffee grounds, cigar ash, dried soft drink residue, chalk, and paints of various types to tint and weather the aluminum.

Unlike offset printing plates or lithoplate as it is referred to, Flite-Metal provides conformity and malability up to 25% of its area mass. This enables unparalleled application ease and speed. For example, Joe Grice covered a BVM F-100 fuselage in under 12 hours. http://www.bvmjets.com/HotShots/F100/joe_g_2.jpg

bartnop

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Ed,.

Somehow I new you were going to react to my reply. I have nothing against flitemetal. I have seen beautiful models built with it. Charlie's DC-3 is one example of them. I myself will not use it because the material is to flat, to straight for my taste. It is not the lustre or weathering, just that I want my model to look as if it is 60 years old and seen tens of thousands hours of flight time. That means that the material bulges between the ribs and panel joints aren't straight anymore. That means there are dents in the fuselage and wings.

That effect is very difficult to achieve with flitemetal because you have to build that into the finish of the model. With litho you can partially stick the stuff onto the surface, or when annealed you can bend and deform it a little to give that beaten up look whether polished to a high lustre or dulled and weathered as if it stood on a Pacific atol for 50 years.

Keep it up Ed, you stand behind your product.

Bart Nopper, Amsterdam.

P.s. I tried to order some flitemetal 2 months ago for some detailing but never got an answer. I had to go with duct tape.