codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Well, I was presently surprised when FED-EX drove up and dropped off a DeHavilland Mosquito.

I must say their are people who stand-by what they sell !!! Jet Hobbies Ltd. B.C. Canada stand-by what they sell. I just had to pay the shipment costs.

The new Mosquito has the changes that I recommended to Jet Hobbies, they forward it to China Models, the changes were made. All of the WING SPARS are multi-layered plywood, expoxied to the center section.

I will be doing a construction article with pictures in about 2 - 3 weeks.

I am disapointed with Giant Scale Models, they did not even acknowledge my email to them regarding the FLAWED DEHAVILLAND MOSQUITO. They were sent the same pictures that I sent to Jet Hobbies, since they also sell the DeHavilland Mosquito, I did not want a kit from them just that their was a problem with the Mosquito. Needless to say I will think twice before buying anything from them.. Jet Hobbies will get my business.

AMA 11269

quint-rcu

My Feedback: (24)

Do they have a web page? I am interested in the Mosquito.

quint

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

I will keep you informed by the forum. I do not have a web page. Just a modeler like you.

My first Mosquito, had a defect in the center section. This has been corrected, in about 3 weeks I
will post it on the forum. For the short time that I had it, it flew just great, realistic take off, very
smooth.
First picture is the tail wheel with pull-pull.
Second & third picture is the twin metal pushrods for the elevator.

CharlieDelta

codimasta

Thankyou for your input on the Mossie, I look forward to more in the near future.

I am near completion on my (first) Mosquito. It is distributed by Flair here in the UK but it is the same model - luckily with all plywood centre section.

A few details:

- I bought the mechanical retracts, an option from Flair. They work well and are easy to install (although they did foul the tanks).
- 2 X SC 36 2-stroke engines
- pull-pull on the rudder as codimasta suggests
- carbon rods to the elevators (had I thought about it the eleator could have all internal controlled movement as well)
- 10oz 2000mah battery right up front
- 11lbs dry

Bit worried about the COG. I am going to try 112mm back from leading edge of the outboard wings - which brings it exactly at the front edge of the joining tube - any advice on this much appreciated!!

I've not flown a plane with flaps before nor a twin and the engines are brand new so its going to be interesting!

Cheers
Chris

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Codimasta
That is some good news, I will be waiting on your update. Thanks

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

What are you using for power?
I put one of these together in late May using 2 OS 25 FXs.
The finished plane came out at 12+ lbs with everything crammed as far forward as possible.

Flying from a asphalt runway showed that it was seriously underpowered and that the rudder and vertical fin were not very effective until takeoff speed was imminent.

I am replacing the 25s with Saito 40s which have similar case dimensions.

I also made a three piece wing conversion so that I could leave it on its gear for transport.

CharlieDelta

Three piece wing would be a good idea as most of the radio can be left plugged together in the centre section with fuz. I've not glued my wings yet so its still an option for me - can you say how you achieved that. Do the outer flaps still work?

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

Outer flaps still work. The flap connector was glued into the inner flap and the other side sticks thru the nacelle hanging out in the breeze.
The outer flap was modified to a plywood lined slot that accomodates the actuator wire when the wing panel is slid into place. It works just like the plywood tab on some of the old Top Flight designs where flap sections were connected together.
The aluminum spar tubes were glued into the outer wing panels. A 1" long hardwood dowel was glued into the exposed end of the tube. A Piece of hardwood about 1" long was glued under the fiber tube in the center section to take up the gap between the wing skin and the fiber tube. With the wing panel inserted and aligned, a hole was drilled thru the top wing skin and both tubes followed by a 6-32 tap.
The hole in the wingskin was then clearence drilled and countersunk enough to let the screw head sink below the surface into the hardwood filler block. The screw threads into the aluminum tube and dowel inside the wing tube.
A 5/16" Hardwood dowel was located toward the leading edge of the wing to act as an anti rotation pin. Wing panels take about one minute max to hook up aileron and put locking screw in place.
Also like so many of the ARFs the plywood motor mount parts located behind the fiberglass are barely up to the task. I ground looped at the end of an aborted takeoff and threw the entire left engine off. Only the throttle servo wire held it to the plane.

CharlieDelta

Thanks for the detail GC

Thats a solid installation for the wing tips and, as you say, gives you very easy field assembly.

Wresltling with the very heavy full span wings and fuz on a windy day on tarmac when you cant really put the plane on its nose will be awful.

If you dont mind I'll copy your idea.

Chris

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

Feel free to use the idea Thus far it is the only thing that has worked as planned. I will try again with the Saito 40s but it will be after the fly in season is over.
Good luck with your project.

CharlieDelta

I've built the attachment for the detachable outer wings and it looks good solution.

Nearly finished now and will post some pictures for the weekend.

Is there any need to fuel proof the airframe or is the paint fuel proof anyway - anyone know?


Chris

CharlieDelta

Mine's finished.

I'm very happy with the result consdering its only about 30hrs work.

Ran the engines today and the cacophony of sound from the 2 36s is spine-tingling.

I'll post flying (or crash) pictures this week. I am pretty fearful of the maiden flight.

Static pics attached...

I look forward to seeing your Mossie.

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

I did brush some thin epoxy on the bare wood inside the engine nacelles. The external paint seems to be unaffected thus far by the Omega 15% nitro fuel.

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

I like your spinners better than the ones that I have. The CB associates spinners are too long and tapered for the Mosquito.
I also added some small leading edge pieces to the radiator sections of the inner wing stubs. I doubt that it in any way improves the aerodynamics but it gives the radiator openings a slightly more scale appearance.
Good luck on the test flights.

CharlieDelta

My fear was well founded, see pic below.

It took off with insufficient airpeed and pitched up uncontrollably before plumetting back to earth.

It crashed quite slowly so is repairable: right engine block badly crunched, nose split open but wings and tail OK.

Diagnosis:

1) Pilot error in having too much flap (I would have been better off with no flaps) and not getting the nose down and the flaps out quick enough

2) Rearward COG - it was probably too far back anyway but without the spinners and cowls it was too much


I'm going to put a hefty piece of lead in the nose for the next attempt.

Its pretty bad when you can't even get to the point where the wings fold!!

Next time...

Chris

CHEETAH AIRCRAFT

I am aware of a local guy who's wing folded in flight. You may want to get in there and do some reinfocements if possible.

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

Sorry about your test crunch but the pictures look like it is repairable. I would put on the solid nose with the guns for the repair.
I also think that the wing loading on this particular model is high enough to pretty much demand that the cg be spot on.
I am at a cross roads with mine thinking about a full house electric conversion. Bigger glow engines would be much cheaper but what the heck.[8D]

CharlieDelta

There will be plenty of reinforcement by the time this one is fixed.

Good idea, GC, about the nose. The plastic nose cone is trashed anyway and I prefer the gunned version.

Electrification looks an attractive option - at least the engines will run evenly. But you would miss out on the screaming howl of the twin ICs.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Charlie..Flaps on take-off ? My mosquito flew just great with 2 x .36 Engines...it took me awhile
to get both engines in sync (+- 200 rpm). My takeoff was very scale it just rose like the real airplane, after a few clicks down elevator, and a click of right aileron it was time to fly it. However within 6 minutes of flight time, I decided to make a pass over the runway. at 3/4 Throttle at about 12 feet high as the plane was directly in front of me....I heard a snap..the outer wing panel collapsed, I throttled back and just watched it go in. The cause was a defect in the center section...they had used balsa spars in the center and rear section. The CG I used was the one in the construction manual, the model flew very smooth...I must say that after I sent Jet Hobbies the pictures of the model with its defects, and what I thought they should notify China Models...I recently received and new model with the plywood spars and plywood reenforcements, My cost was the Shipping.
In regard to the use of flaps on takeoff, 30 degrees is sufficient, I always trim my flaps in the air
at about 1/2 throttle, see if it pitches up or down, adding the proper elevator trim to compensate
the lowering of the flaps. What type of radio are you using?

CharlieDelta

codimasta

Thanks for the detail.

Next time I'll go with no flaps on take off. We have a long runway and the 36s should generate enough speed to lift it off without flaps.

I am using a simple Futaba 6EXA radio which just about has enough function for the mossie. Futaba servos.

When I went to the LHS to get some fibreglass fixing stuff he asked the question "Epoxy resin or Polyester resin". Anyone know?

(I'm on holiday for a few days now so speak to you all later).

Chris.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Charlie:

Polyester resin has limitations. For general work always use epoxy.

Bill.

CharlieDelta

My battered Mossie lay on the bench for a whole month but I finally got round to patching it all up. Its not pretty with epoxy splattered all over the place but it wont notice in the air.

Added nearly a pound of lead to the nose.

This time it took off with no problems (no flaps!) and I had three good flights.

The SC 36s providing plenty of power.

Snapped the retract unit on the third landing so will need replacement. There is no give or spring action at all so the landing shock is always going to be hard on the fittings - must achieve smoother landings.

Anyone found a source of good retracts?

I'll try and get some flying pictures in the week.

Chris

- a happier mossie pilot.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

[8D] Glad you were able to get a couple of flights, before the landing gear gave out.
I am using a set of Sring-Aire retracts, with Robart Oleo Struts...it should hold up.
I also added an onboard glow system, a little insurance.

The only problem that I have had so far has been the warped elevator, and warped rudder.
I will compensate for it, then if the plane flies to my liking I will rebuild the elevator & rudder.

It seems that I have been blessed with warps....just received a new top wing for my Super Stearman, Great Planes need to check the wings that they include in their kits..

I should have both models in the air in a week or so.

Larry
AMA 11269

mossi

Hello
Iam in the proccess of scrath building one right now. I like them a little bigger.This is a 130 in. wing span. Powered by 2 x G62. Hopefully I'll have it flying by next spring. I have sent you a picture of it so far.
Jerry

CharlieDelta

Jerry

Thats a beauty - and from moulds by the look of it.

Look forward to seeing pictures of it in full dress colours.

- but your poor dog looks very reproachful.

Chris