Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
12-15-2007, 05:38 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Hi Bill,
it seems that mails to [email protected] are being refused, so I try this way:
I just received my Twinsync and the Glow Drivers that I ordered at RC-Showcase. Now I am a little bit confused, because the Manual that was in the package (Version 2.0.1) shows a different picture of the Twinsync than that one I received. And it seems that there are no connectors for the remote glow drivers.
The board I received looks like this one:
So what can we do to solve my problem?
Regards,
Peter
it seems that mails to [email protected] are being refused, so I try this way:
I just received my Twinsync and the Glow Drivers that I ordered at RC-Showcase. Now I am a little bit confused, because the Manual that was in the package (Version 2.0.1) shows a different picture of the Twinsync than that one I received. And it seems that there are no connectors for the remote glow drivers.
The board I received looks like this one:
So what can we do to solve my problem?
Regards,
Peter
12-15-2007, 06:48 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Yes that is version 1.4.x - not 2.x.x. This older version was sold either with or without glow drivers on board and if it did not have glow drivers they could not be added. The one in the picture does not have glow drivers. Start by calling them RCS because I am not sure how they shipped you this one since these have not been shipped for about a year now. Regardless I will take care of it if you can not work it out with them.
12-16-2007, 05:15 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Ok, I try to contact RCS. Anyway, do you have a manual for the 1.4.x version for me? Is there any difference in functionality between 1.4. and 2.0 except for the glow drivers?
Peter
Peter
12-16-2007, 07:41 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
send me your email address and I will email you the correct manual. Glow drivers are the only difference except the connector order is different.
From right to left on the picture above (from center of board to the corner) connections are the following:
Aux Channel RX
Throttle channel RX
Engine 2 servo
Engine 1 servo
Engine 2 sensor
Engine 1 sensor
That is the only difference.
From right to left on the picture above (from center of board to the corner) connections are the following:
Aux Channel RX
Throttle channel RX
Engine 2 servo
Engine 1 servo
Engine 2 sensor
Engine 1 sensor
That is the only difference.
12-28-2007, 09:31 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Guys,
I made a very minor update in the firmware recently that affects the Green LEDs on the remote display operation.
Before now the green leds were a random snap shot of the hall effect signal every 1/40th of a second or about and so it's blinking appeared somewhat random. I have changed that now to be on solid if RPM is >1500 and back to the random sampling is RPM <1500. I think this will make it more useful.
Bill
I made a very minor update in the firmware recently that affects the Green LEDs on the remote display operation.
Before now the green leds were a random snap shot of the hall effect signal every 1/40th of a second or about and so it's blinking appeared somewhat random. I have changed that now to be on solid if RPM is >1500 and back to the random sampling is RPM <1500. I think this will make it more useful.
Bill
01-01-2008, 10:00 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Here is my twinsync update. I am currently on my third twin, two RCM Piper Senecas, and now a Stafford Twin Comanche. After the third flight on the Comanche without a twinsync, the plane met the ground after entering a flat spin. My best guess is a flameout on one of the engines. Minor damage was repaired and the plane was once again ready for flight. After reading this thread, I realized I had thought I didn't need a twinsync, because I was able to sync my engines pretty well. In my opinion, the most important element in a successful twin experience is engine reliability. In R/C twins, it is very difficult to overcome an engine failure mostly due to the fact it is impossible to determine a flameout in a reasonable amount of time, much less determining which engine puked. The peace of mind knowing you are now flying a twin that will perform like a single is priceless. My experience with the twin sync has been one of extreme pleasure. I mounted my magnets in the hubs of my Surpass 70's with little effort. I must admit, running the wiring in a completed build was a bit of a challenge, but once installed, the system has performed flawlessly. No adjustments were necessary due to the fact I am running a Futaba 7CUP which is the default set up for the twinsync. Bill has been most supportive by keeping this thread active and returning a call to me on a Saturday evening. I recommend anyone attempting twin fight to gain peace of mind and spend the few extra dollars to protect your equipment.
01-01-2008, 10:33 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Thanks for the plug Tool-man,
I have a couple of great videos of a couple of big Ziroli twins with and without the twinsync being uploaded on youtube right now that will support your statement. No matter how perfect your engines are if one dies and other planes are in the air you will probably not realize it soon enough.
Crashing a model is not a failure but rather more pilot experience - that is the way I look at it. I put a plane in a tree today because it was 60 deg in Raleigh, NC today and we had picknick at our club field. Nice weather except for the 30mph breeze. My depth perception is just not what it used to be. I thought I had cleared that tree and was steering arround the next when the tree I had already passed grabbed my plane.
I hate to see crashes - but I hate to miss them too. So I have one going up on youtube now that is a good one and I will post. And yes he now has a twinsync for this plane when it is repaired.... he was a great sport!!!
I need some Quadsync videos? Where are the QuadSync customers?
I have a couple of great videos of a couple of big Ziroli twins with and without the twinsync being uploaded on youtube right now that will support your statement. No matter how perfect your engines are if one dies and other planes are in the air you will probably not realize it soon enough.
Crashing a model is not a failure but rather more pilot experience - that is the way I look at it. I put a plane in a tree today because it was 60 deg in Raleigh, NC today and we had picknick at our club field. Nice weather except for the 30mph breeze. My depth perception is just not what it used to be. I thought I had cleared that tree and was steering arround the next when the tree I had already passed grabbed my plane.
I hate to see crashes - but I hate to miss them too. So I have one going up on youtube now that is a good one and I will post. And yes he now has a twinsync for this plane when it is repaired.... he was a great sport!!!
I need some Quadsync videos? Where are the QuadSync customers?
01-02-2008, 10:02 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
OK here is one video... i.e. A big twin without a Twinsync during a dead stick...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRJ98-oylYE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRJ98-oylYE
01-02-2008, 12:16 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Here is another Ziroli video - The right way to do a twin - with a Twinsync of course ---
Radar clocked at 130mph!
Thanks 2engsout !!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVpZGc3zT74
Radar clocked at 130mph!
Thanks 2engsout !!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVpZGc3zT74
01-07-2008, 05:07 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
How does the glow drivers work? I am looking at using them on my TF B-25 with 2 OS 70 emgines. Has anyone had some experiace with the glow drivers? How is the set up done?
01-13-2008, 07:41 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Bill,
The Twin-Sync and Glow Drivers are great products. I am on my fourth twin and two of the prior ones were lost or fatally damaged by loss of an engine in flight. Those were RC Combat planes and could be replaced with only a few weeks build time. The new twin is a scale model built by the late Slick Larsen.
Here is the plane, a Dehavilland Dragon Rapide with OS .48 Surpass engines mounted inverted inside tight cowls?
I want to thank you for all your help. I tested the Twin Sync and glow drivers yesterday and the results were perfect. The engines can easily be started with the on board glow drivers, and the synchronizing has to be seen to be believed. The system held the engines within 40 rpm of each other at full throttle (10,470 rpm).
An excellent product, consider me a very satisfied customer. Thank you for making it.
The Twin-Sync and Glow Drivers are great products. I am on my fourth twin and two of the prior ones were lost or fatally damaged by loss of an engine in flight. Those were RC Combat planes and could be replaced with only a few weeks build time. The new twin is a scale model built by the late Slick Larsen.
Here is the plane, a Dehavilland Dragon Rapide with OS .48 Surpass engines mounted inverted inside tight cowls?
I want to thank you for all your help. I tested the Twin Sync and glow drivers yesterday and the results were perfect. The engines can easily be started with the on board glow drivers, and the synchronizing has to be seen to be believed. The system held the engines within 40 rpm of each other at full throttle (10,470 rpm).
An excellent product, consider me a very satisfied customer. Thank you for making it.
01-13-2008, 09:26 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Lou,
Thanks for the plug... I got into twins via combat as well and still have probably a half dozen combat planes ready to go but our group kinda fell apart the last year or two. I had some real failures doing twin combat but in the end I scored some good cuts on some 2610s and 2548 warbirds with a twin ME-410 I built. Everyone loved the sound - they thought it was 100mph+ even though 18,000rpm on an 8x3 is only 60mph tops.
I started with a P-38 which was not successful but that was how the idea for the twin sync evolved. A dead stick meant a crash if you could not hear the engine quit. If I was the only plane in the air and 100+ feet high and the engine quit - no problem - cut the other engine and glide it in. On one engine at full power and the other one out it was a lawn dart.
The problem with twins is flying on one engine when you think you have two (ie. not knowing you have an engine out).
Bill
Thanks for the plug... I got into twins via combat as well and still have probably a half dozen combat planes ready to go but our group kinda fell apart the last year or two. I had some real failures doing twin combat but in the end I scored some good cuts on some 2610s and 2548 warbirds with a twin ME-410 I built. Everyone loved the sound - they thought it was 100mph+ even though 18,000rpm on an 8x3 is only 60mph tops.
I started with a P-38 which was not successful but that was how the idea for the twin sync evolved. A dead stick meant a crash if you could not hear the engine quit. If I was the only plane in the air and 100+ feet high and the engine quit - no problem - cut the other engine and glide it in. On one engine at full power and the other one out it was a lawn dart.
The problem with twins is flying on one engine when you think you have two (ie. not knowing you have an engine out).
Bill
01-14-2008, 10:51 AM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Bill,
I wish I had the Twin Sync when I had these combat twins. The top one is Rod Bauer with his kit version of the UHU 189. His company Warbirds Ltd had some of the finest RC Combat kits ever manufactured in the US, but its gone now. My FW-189 was done in lighter camo, but I can't find any photos of it. I'm holding the DeHavilland Hornet in the middle photo - that was one bad boy with twin Cyclon .15s running on crankcase pressure. The third one is a Mig 5 for DIS 200, only two were built. Mine had two OS LA .15s running off a single bladder tank. Lasted one match before it took a t-bone shot from a Spitfire in Paris, Texas a couple of years ago.
I wish I had the Twin Sync when I had these combat twins. The top one is Rod Bauer with his kit version of the UHU 189. His company Warbirds Ltd had some of the finest RC Combat kits ever manufactured in the US, but its gone now. My FW-189 was done in lighter camo, but I can't find any photos of it. I'm holding the DeHavilland Hornet in the middle photo - that was one bad boy with twin Cyclon .15s running on crankcase pressure. The third one is a Mig 5 for DIS 200, only two were built. Mine had two OS LA .15s running off a single bladder tank. Lasted one match before it took a t-bone shot from a Spitfire in Paris, Texas a couple of years ago.
01-18-2008, 07:32 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I thought you guys might like to see what is next. This new version of the TwinSync will be available in about a month - or less.
There are no functional or software changes and this chips are swappable between ver 2.0 and this one (ver 2.2).
Here are the improvements:
1. Holes for screw mounting
2. More emi suppression and better grounding for quiter operation.
3. Sensor voltage clamps for reduced spark noise in Gas engine applications.
Price will remain the same.
While I posting pictures I thought I would show you guys some of the new things that should be available at RCShowcase soon.
Picture #3 is a Servo Exerecisor. It lets you control servos with out a transmitter as well as exercise them for test and measurement (it is similar to another product the "York TV servo Cycler"). Price should be <$20.
Picture #4 is a Servo Matching device. It is similar to other products like the "Matchbox" or "Servo Equalizer". However this one is more flexible in that it can do 1 channel of input with four outputs or 2 channels of input and 2 channels of outputs per channel of input. Price should be <$50.
Final picture is a prototype 20Amp DC-DC converter that lets you use a 5.0-14V battery and it converts it down to 5.0 or 6.0V. The killer thing about this it is 95% efficient typically. That means this converter with 3000mAh 2 cell lipo can put out about 4500mAh at 5.0Volts.
There are no functional or software changes and this chips are swappable between ver 2.0 and this one (ver 2.2).
Here are the improvements:
1. Holes for screw mounting
2. More emi suppression and better grounding for quiter operation.
3. Sensor voltage clamps for reduced spark noise in Gas engine applications.
Price will remain the same.
While I posting pictures I thought I would show you guys some of the new things that should be available at RCShowcase soon.
Picture #3 is a Servo Exerecisor. It lets you control servos with out a transmitter as well as exercise them for test and measurement (it is similar to another product the "York TV servo Cycler"). Price should be <$20.
Picture #4 is a Servo Matching device. It is similar to other products like the "Matchbox" or "Servo Equalizer". However this one is more flexible in that it can do 1 channel of input with four outputs or 2 channels of input and 2 channels of outputs per channel of input. Price should be <$50.
Final picture is a prototype 20Amp DC-DC converter that lets you use a 5.0-14V battery and it converts it down to 5.0 or 6.0V. The killer thing about this it is 95% efficient typically. That means this converter with 3000mAh 2 cell lipo can put out about 4500mAh at 5.0Volts.
01-19-2008, 12:08 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
When will the synchronizer be available that use the electronic ignition module for input rather than mounting sensor magnets? Specifically using Evoulution 26s
Thanks
Jack Wilhelmi
Thanks
Jack Wilhelmi
01-19-2008, 03:32 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
It will not be a new twinsync. It will be an adapter board that is sold as an option that plugs into the sensor connectors with any version of Twinsync (ver 1.4 or 2.x) and replaces the hall effect sensors. It will be probably in the $20-50 range depending on how complex it gets.
I built prototypes that work with the ZDZ. Then I tried it on a Zenoah G20EI and it has a completely different signal and did not work. I came up with another approach to measure the current pulses from the ignition batterey to the ignition. This is a lot harder to do but would work on any gas engine. I had it working this week for measuring current but it still has alot of bugs to work out. I would expect it will probably be another month or two.
I built prototypes that work with the ZDZ. Then I tried it on a Zenoah G20EI and it has a completely different signal and did not work. I came up with another approach to measure the current pulses from the ignition batterey to the ignition. This is a lot harder to do but would work on any gas engine. I had it working this week for measuring current but it still has alot of bugs to work out. I would expect it will probably be another month or two.
01-19-2008, 05:35 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
ORIGINAL: yl5295
NEWS FLASH!!! New option coming...
I have gotten many emails that many people like the twinsync and comment that it simplifies flying twins - thanks. Being a twin flyer I agree but it is still complicated to install and program. I am working on simplifying that.
I have already greatly simplified the glow driver wiring with the 2.0 glow drivers that mount in the nacellel along with the battery and everything is prep'ed with connectors and only a servo wire is required for each glow driver to the nacellel.
Now the most difficult part of the install is the magnets and sensors. Plus it is possible to pick up spark noise in the sensor wire with gas engines that can cause problems - although rare with shielded plug caps and plug wires.
SO... if you have gas engines with a newer ignition (that outputs spark pulses on the third wire from the ignition).... NO SENSORS OR MAGNETS WILL BE REQUIRED WITH THIS OPTION.
The option I am coming out with is an optoisolation module that reads RPM from the ignition module of gas engines rather than hall/rpm sensors and magnets. (Sorry not for use on glow engines.) This simply plugs into the ignitions, the receiver, and the throttle servos. It converts the ignition spark signal into a signal that replaces the hall/rpm sensors and plugs into the twinsync in their place. The ignitions are completely optically isolated from the Twinsync, receiver and all radio components so no chance of interference.
I have a few working prototypes now that work with negative pulse ignition systems (Like the RCS). I would like to get a few in the field for flight testing. So if you fly regularily and will provide feedback on your results send me an email. I would like a couple of field testers before releasing this option.
I attached a couple of pictures of working prototypes. One shows a snap on board and the other is cable connected. I will probably finalize on the cable connected rather than the snap on module.
NEWS FLASH!!! New option coming...
I have gotten many emails that many people like the twinsync and comment that it simplifies flying twins - thanks. Being a twin flyer I agree but it is still complicated to install and program. I am working on simplifying that.
I have already greatly simplified the glow driver wiring with the 2.0 glow drivers that mount in the nacellel along with the battery and everything is prep'ed with connectors and only a servo wire is required for each glow driver to the nacellel.
Now the most difficult part of the install is the magnets and sensors. Plus it is possible to pick up spark noise in the sensor wire with gas engines that can cause problems - although rare with shielded plug caps and plug wires.
SO... if you have gas engines with a newer ignition (that outputs spark pulses on the third wire from the ignition).... NO SENSORS OR MAGNETS WILL BE REQUIRED WITH THIS OPTION.
The option I am coming out with is an optoisolation module that reads RPM from the ignition module of gas engines rather than hall/rpm sensors and magnets. (Sorry not for use on glow engines.) This simply plugs into the ignitions, the receiver, and the throttle servos. It converts the ignition spark signal into a signal that replaces the hall/rpm sensors and plugs into the twinsync in their place. The ignitions are completely optically isolated from the Twinsync, receiver and all radio components so no chance of interference.
I have a few working prototypes now that work with negative pulse ignition systems (Like the RCS). I would like to get a few in the field for flight testing. So if you fly regularily and will provide feedback on your results send me an email. I would like a couple of field testers before releasing this option.
I attached a couple of pictures of working prototypes. One shows a snap on board and the other is cable connected. I will probably finalize on the cable connected rather than the snap on module.
Bill,
Is this true???
I won't have to install pickups with the gas motors? I was just about to start this weekend on this.
I am going to be running the 3W 50s with the 3W ignition. It has a 3 wire leed going from the sensor to the ignition module. Please pardon my ignorance on this.
-M51
01-20-2008, 11:44 AM
#518
RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Lou,
I have been planning to build a Rapide for a couple of years. I have lots of questions if you do not mind. Have you done a thread elsewhere, or can I PM you?
Thanks,
Bo
I have been planning to build a Rapide for a couple of years. I have lots of questions if you do not mind. Have you done a thread elsewhere, or can I PM you?
Thanks,
Bo
01-20-2008, 12:59 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Mustang51,
Do you know what the output of the third wire looks like? If it is the same as the ZDZ then I have some prototypes that should work. If it is like the Zenoah then it will be a month or two before I have something that will work. There is nothing wrong with using the sensor and they are the cheapest way to go.
Do you know what the output of the third wire looks like? If it is the same as the ZDZ then I have some prototypes that should work. If it is like the Zenoah then it will be a month or two before I have something that will work. There is nothing wrong with using the sensor and they are the cheapest way to go.
01-20-2008, 01:28 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Hi Bill,
I know there is nothing wrong with the sensor set-up Bill. I just find it a "beautiful thing" not have to mount the sensors and worry about the possibility of them comming loose. I know they won't, but to me... there's one less "weak link".
I'm still a few months away from flying so waiting a bit isn't going to hurt me, I have soooooo much to do on this bird yet.
Here's a pic of my motor and pickups. What do ya think about the wires?
-Dave (Mustang51)
I know there is nothing wrong with the sensor set-up Bill. I just find it a "beautiful thing" not have to mount the sensors and worry about the possibility of them comming loose. I know they won't, but to me... there's one less "weak link".
I'm still a few months away from flying so waiting a bit isn't going to hurt me, I have soooooo much to do on this bird yet.
Here's a pic of my motor and pickups. What do ya think about the wires?
-Dave (Mustang51)
01-20-2008, 01:38 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
ORIGINAL: yl5295
Mustang51,
Do you know what the output of the third wire looks like? If it is the same as the ZDZ then I have some prototypes that should work. If it is like the Zenoah then it will be a month or two before I have something that will work. There is nothing wrong with using the sensor and they are the cheapest way to go.
Mustang51,
Do you know what the output of the third wire looks like? If it is the same as the ZDZ then I have some prototypes that should work. If it is like the Zenoah then it will be a month or two before I have something that will work. There is nothing wrong with using the sensor and they are the cheapest way to go.
-Dave
01-20-2008, 02:01 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Not the hall senor wire. What does the electrical signal look like on the third wire between the ignition and ignition battery?
Some ignitions have a third wire going to the ignition battery that it outputs a TTL level signal (0-5V) out on that it pulses every spark. If 3W has the third wire is it 5V when on and 0V pulse when it sparks or 0V when on and 5V when it sparks.
Some ignitions have a third wire going to the ignition battery that it outputs a TTL level signal (0-5V) out on that it pulses every spark. If 3W has the third wire is it 5V when on and 0V pulse when it sparks or 0V when on and 5V when it sparks.
01-20-2008, 02:41 PM
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RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Heres the 3W instructions.
Wire are described at bottom.
...Cable information .
blue wire to sensor
red / black with bigger dia, with socket to battery
red / black with plug connection for red LED, long contact +
yellow / white with socket connection for 3W tachometer and other options
What do you think about the yellow\white wire being used with the "Twin Sync"?
-Dave
Wire are described at bottom.
...Cable information .
blue wire to sensor
red / black with bigger dia, with socket to battery
red / black with plug connection for red LED, long contact +
yellow / white with socket connection for 3W tachometer and other options
What do you think about the yellow\white wire being used with the "Twin Sync"?
-Dave
