jddickers

My Feedback: (98)

I thought I would start this thread as we are all building the Tigercat. If we work together maybe we can work out some of the problems that arise while building the cat. When I build I don't start at the first step and go to the end. I have started with the gear install. Here is what I have found so far. The main gear no problem. Mounting the nose gear you will have to trim the edge of the door opening for the strut and wheel to clear. Now the nose gear door. First of all the gear door is going to have to cut into. The instructions don't show this and the mounting is wrong. When I get the door mounted I will post pictures. Happy building.
JD

rcalbuquerque

My Feedback: (171)

JD
I just unpacked the F7F Tigercat from the large box....first impression...Very Nice....oh they forgot to include the instructions...wait a minute I think I found them...kinda like install servos...install retracts...mount motor...balance. HMMMM oh well been there before with The World Models P51GS.
I am building this for a friend and he just handed me 2 YS140 sport motors to power this beast
I need to pick up servos...any sugestions?
Lou S.

jddickers

My Feedback: (98)

Every one has opinions on servos. On my turbine jets I use digital and at least 150 oz. torque. This bird is not going to fly at 180mph. I am using Futaba 3305 High Torque on Ail,Elv and rudder. Futaba 3010 for the rest.
JD

jddickers

My Feedback: (98)

I have done some work on the Tigercat this week. The tail is done and rudder and elevator controls installed. I used Chip Hyde control horns and Dubro HD pull-pull cable. The servo arms are Hanger 9 alum. The noes retract is installed and steering cables run. I used the cable that came with the kit. The next task is the nose gear door. The instructions are not right so will have to figure it out. I found that they used hard wood where the control horns mount. This is great so you can use horns with out backing plates. It's much cleaner looking. Untill next time.
JD

rcalbuquerque

My Feedback: (171)

Nice work JD
Thanks for the photos
I have ordered servos and extensions for now and am getting ready to start working on mine, so seeing yours is a big help. How did the control surface hinging go?

VKerster

Rcalb, The little balsa blocks that the pin hindge goes thru were a real pain to work with, some crumbled, some of the holes in the surfaces were off center making the fit of the blocks almost unusable. Real patience is needed on this part of the build, I almost didn't use them, but at the end I believe they were worth using. ALL T-CAT BUILDERS ATTENTION: Before committing the assignment of the flaps and the alerons, BE SURE to feel for the wood for mounting the control horns under the skin before drilling. I thought I was shipped two "right side" inner flaps because no wood was in the location for mounting the control horn on one, turns out the flaps are symmerical and the factory screwed up with not enough wood in the proper location , not because of two "right side" flaps. Now I have to reverse the sevro mounts to attempt to locate enough wood to screw the control horns into, and still keep the control rods as parallel as possible to the sevro arms. The factory should have run the wood the entire length of the surface, not skimping to save five cents. Also, the control arms supplied are way too small for a bird this size and weight, I'm using the Dubro lardge scale "t-style" horns (cat. #366). These are the ticket if you want some beef and can use wood screws in CA wicked holes for mounting and not have to drill thru thru the top of the surface and have to look at the ugly top mounting caps for the next 20 yrs.
In the nacelles, it appears the bulkhead to hold the back of the 8 oz. fuel tanks (useless, i'm using sullivan 12 0z. round for gas) are installed upside down. They should support the tank, not having to make a hanger of some kind to hold on to it.

rcalbuquerque

My Feedback: (171)

VKerster
Thanks for the tip.......any advice is truly appreciated

chasrb

I was looking for this thread...thanks for starting it.

VKerster

Rcalb, I'm using Hitec 645 MG for alerons, rudder, elevators, and nose wheel, and futaba 3003's for flaps, throttles, and air valve. Also using the new Hitec 8 ch. reciver, and a 3000mah battery at 4.8v. What engines are you using?

rcalbuquerque

My Feedback: (171)

I will be installing a pair of YS140 Sport motors. I will start intalling tem next week and will posy photos soon.

blubberse

Hello!
Nice to see a thread about this beautiful aircraft..
It so happens that i have a pair of saito 170R and i wonder if anyone can PLEEEASE meassure the cowling for me?
I would really like to know the diameter!

VKerster

Bluberse, the cowl is 8.5 in. back by the firewall and tapers to 7.25 in. at the front, large enough for a zenoah g-26. These are the actual measurements off of the cowls.......

chasrb

blubberse, I too have the 170's. The cowl dia is 190mm the min OD on the 170 is 186mm so there is 2mm a side. I do not have my Tigercat yet, but these are the measurements as I know them.

blubberse

Highland ,Michigan and Warrenton,internet is fantastic! Thanks ! Chasman,when you get yours,please write a word or two if the saito fits..
I would really like to use them in this bird..

VKerster

Jiddkickers, are the elevator control rods all arced up, or is it an optical illusion?

chasrb

Sure would be nice to use hidden controls...

VKerster

Casrb, Where did you get your measurements? Mine are off the actual ID of the cowls, 8.5 in. at the firewall and 7.25 in. at the front. I'm courious where your dim's came from. They are an inch different than mine at the firewall....

chasrb

I got mine from the KMP folks. I unfortunately do not have possession of my Tigercat yet.

It is a little disturbing that the measurements I was going on are at the firewall and not at the nose of the cowl. Thanks for the accurate measurements.

Well, I guess it comes down to this now, I either cut the cowls and let the rocker arm covers stick out ( gold and blue are nice right?) or get Fiberglass Specialties to make me some custom cowls that will accommodate the 170's with no cutting.

Since I don't have my plane yet it is hard to visualize all my options. Does it look like the firewall could be pushed back so an engine like the 170 could fit in? From what I recall, the Tigercat manual shows the prop face to be 135 mm or 5.3" off the firewall, the Saito 170 is 155mm or 6.1" so the fire wall could be moved back 20mm then maybe the engine would fit better.

Regardless, I'll get them in there somehow!

RICK9303

My Feedback: (172)

Chasrb, The firewall is part of the nacelle. There is a piece of plywood glued on inside the nacelle to hold the blind nuts, and stiffen where the motor mounts. Not knowing much of the 170 radial, is the mounting arms cast to the main crank housing, or bolt on. If bolt on, maybe, a shorter one could be made, and clearance for the carb could be cut in the firewall, similar to what they do for rear carb gassers.
Rick

chasrb

The mount is removal and I could out a 1/2" standoff or smaller. The mount is approx 2.5" from base to engine.

rcalbuquerque

My Feedback: (171)

It begins
I started with the retracts....

chasrb

How are the tires and wheels? The tires look a little weak, are they the ultalight foamy stuff? Will the Century Jet tires work ya think?

warbird51

My Feedback: (12)

If you have some custom cowls made, let me know. The cowls on the KMP aren't quite the right shape anyway and that could be addressed if you have new one's made. I have one Saito 170 and if you can get them to work, I'd get another. I've ordered an KMP F7F without the markings, so I can duplicate the Tigercat I was crew chief and flew in in the 80's.

Wayne

chasrb

Warbird51 did you get yours already? Cna you tell me the particulars of the proper shape vs the KMP one? That will help me out when and if I get new cowls made. Heck maybe I can offer them to KMP as an EC to the kit!

warbird51

My Feedback: (12)

My Tigercat is due in the end of May. I could tell by looking at the pics of the model that have been posted here that the front of the cowl is not right. It's too blunt for one thing. I can dig through my photo's and 3 views to find the correct shape.

Wayne

check out this web site. http://www.pbase.com/wjpearce/bigbossman It has some close up's of the cowl and you can see what I mean. Just judging by the pics, I could be wrong. Once I get my kit, I'll know for sure. The model pics just don't show enough to be sure on the shape.