"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"
#1651
Thread Starter
But here is the web site for anyone wanting to look up or buy carbon fiber wing tube w/ sleeve sets:
https://www.cstsales.com/a-carbon-fi...es-shapes.html
https://www.cstsales.com/a-carbon-fi...es-shapes.html
#1652
Thread Starter
Would the person that sent me an email requesting the reversed wing drawing please resend the request,
I accidently deleted the message while I was searching for the files.
Thanks,
Bill D.
I accidently deleted the message while I was searching for the files.
Thanks,
Bill D.
#1653
Thread Starter
Well it looks like I waited to late to pick up one of those laser cut short kits on E-bay, so looks like I'll be
plugging away in my spare time to cur my own short kit, I'll probably do better that way I can choose the
correct wood hardness's for the ribs and fuselage formers, I will probably also go with the glass fuselage
from G & L Hobby also, just don't have room for it at the moment as my shop is currently crammed with
other projects amongst a few "honey doo's" to keep my "other half" happy!!!
plugging away in my spare time to cur my own short kit, I'll probably do better that way I can choose the
correct wood hardness's for the ribs and fuselage formers, I will probably also go with the glass fuselage
from G & L Hobby also, just don't have room for it at the moment as my shop is currently crammed with
other projects amongst a few "honey doo's" to keep my "other half" happy!!!
#1655
Greg from G&L emailed me on my request for a fuse set 1 month ago tomorrow. He had indicated about 4 weeks he would probably have one for me. I can hardly wait. Worse than waiting for Santa.
#1656
Well I decided on the RCGF 30cc twin for power on this project. I have my wing framed up. Working on a nessel and gas tank positioning. I have a few pics I will post. I am almost to 10 posts so I can.
#1657
My Feedback: (10)
Picked these up at an estate sale on Ebay for $225, I had been searching for over a year! The seller really didn't know what he had, in fact he described the main gear as 90 degree rotating. I looked at all the photos closely before purchasing. I was correct in determining these were 158 and 152. Looks like only the right main was mounted temporarily.
#1660
My Feedback: (118)
Well...after all these years, I have got the bug again. I don't know how far I will get this time as it has been a long ago...in a land far far away project.
The wing is pretty complete from years ago. The fuse was well framed, but I bought G&L stuff. I'll post some photos when I get it all out and in one spot in the shop.
I have been through a plethora of engine choices over the years. OS 120 Surpass, Saito 150s, OS 160 twins, RCS 140s. I have actually had these in pairs. Crazy huh? But I never got to the stage of mounting any of them.
I really like the RCGF twins, either 20cc or 30cc...decisions...decisions.
The wing is pretty complete from years ago. The fuse was well framed, but I bought G&L stuff. I'll post some photos when I get it all out and in one spot in the shop.
I have been through a plethora of engine choices over the years. OS 120 Surpass, Saito 150s, OS 160 twins, RCS 140s. I have actually had these in pairs. Crazy huh? But I never got to the stage of mounting any of them.
I really like the RCGF twins, either 20cc or 30cc...decisions...decisions.
#1664
Thread Starter
On the vertical stabilizer I would remove the glass trailing edge and install a wooden trailing edge,1/4" x1 1/4",
as shown on the plans, if that is what fits, but I would only put the S-2, S-4 or S-5 and S-7 in the glass stabilizer
for extra support and strength. I would also suggest putting double depth reinforcement (1/4" x 1 1/4"} where the
hinges will go for extra gluing surface, either for hinge points or the flat style of hinge, which ever one you choose
to use in this application. Also remember that you will probably have to cut the stabilizer ribs slightly oversize to fit
in the glass.
Bill D
as shown on the plans, if that is what fits, but I would only put the S-2, S-4 or S-5 and S-7 in the glass stabilizer
for extra support and strength. I would also suggest putting double depth reinforcement (1/4" x 1 1/4"} where the
hinges will go for extra gluing surface, either for hinge points or the flat style of hinge, which ever one you choose
to use in this application. Also remember that you will probably have to cut the stabilizer ribs slightly oversize to fit
in the glass.
Bill D
#1665
My Feedback: (118)
On the vertical stabilizer I would remove the glass trailing edge and install a wooden trailing edge,1/4" x1 1/4",
as shown on the plans, if that is what fits, but I would only put the S-2, S-4 or S-5 and S-7 in the glass stabilizer
for extra support and strength. I would also suggest putting double depth reinforcement (1/4" x 1 1/4"} where the
hinges will go for extra gluing surface, either for hinge points or the flat style of hinge, which ever one you choose
to use in this application. Also remember that you will probably have to cut the stabilizer ribs slightly oversize to fit
in the glass.
Bill D
as shown on the plans, if that is what fits, but I would only put the S-2, S-4 or S-5 and S-7 in the glass stabilizer
for extra support and strength. I would also suggest putting double depth reinforcement (1/4" x 1 1/4"} where the
hinges will go for extra gluing surface, either for hinge points or the flat style of hinge, which ever one you choose
to use in this application. Also remember that you will probably have to cut the stabilizer ribs slightly oversize to fit
in the glass.
Bill D
#1666
Thread Starter
Can't remember the glass thickness from my glass fuselage that I had and sold with my last kit that
I owned several years back, but it is probably thinner than the the 3/32" sheet specified on the plans,
so you will have to compensate for that everywhere in the glass fuselage and nacelles.
I owned several years back, but it is probably thinner than the the 3/32" sheet specified on the plans,
so you will have to compensate for that everywhere in the glass fuselage and nacelles.
#1667
My Feedback: (118)
Hey all,
I made a little more progress. I built a rudder the other day and was over zealous. I forgot the hard points for hinges and the plywood block for my control horn. Besides that, I did not look at the plan close enough and built it too small. Oh Boy!!
Today I managed to build my rudder control rod and new rudder. Much better now. All it needs is the top piece added on. I have been away from it too long and almost forgot how to build.
I'm going to have a million ??? for you guys with experience. I think I have forgotten more than I knew.
Here is one now...The plan shows the trailing edge of the vertical stab and the leading edge of the rudder as flat. Will the hinges provide enough clearance or should the rudder have a slight taper on the leading edge?
Also...Bill...I have the template sheet you sent me many moons ago. Do those drawings compensate for the fiberglass parts?
I made a little more progress. I built a rudder the other day and was over zealous. I forgot the hard points for hinges and the plywood block for my control horn. Besides that, I did not look at the plan close enough and built it too small. Oh Boy!!
Today I managed to build my rudder control rod and new rudder. Much better now. All it needs is the top piece added on. I have been away from it too long and almost forgot how to build.
I'm going to have a million ??? for you guys with experience. I think I have forgotten more than I knew.
Here is one now...The plan shows the trailing edge of the vertical stab and the leading edge of the rudder as flat. Will the hinges provide enough clearance or should the rudder have a slight taper on the leading edge?
Also...Bill...I have the template sheet you sent me many moons ago. Do those drawings compensate for the fiberglass parts?
Last edited by GIJon; 07-18-2021 at 02:19 PM.
#1668
My plans show a taper on the rudder see attached picture. I also put a 10 degree taper on the trailing edge of the horizontal stab along with the elevator. When I do the trailing edge of vertical stab I will add a small taper on it as well.
#1669
Thread Starter
(Here is one now...The plan shows the trailing edge of the vertical stab and the leading edge of the rudder as flat. Will the hinges provide enough clearance or should the rudder have a slight taper on the leading edge?
Also...Bill...I have the template sheet you sent me many moons ago. Do those drawings compensate for the fiberglass parts?)
I would put a slight taper on the rudder, so as to let it move in both directions without binding, look at the drawing for the fin and
rudder on the plans sheet.
The template sheet is for the kit formers, not for the fiberglass fuselage 310.
Also...Bill...I have the template sheet you sent me many moons ago. Do those drawings compensate for the fiberglass parts?)
I would put a slight taper on the rudder, so as to let it move in both directions without binding, look at the drawing for the fin and
rudder on the plans sheet.
The template sheet is for the kit formers, not for the fiberglass fuselage 310.
#1673
Thread Starter
were running, so his time doing the moldings of the fiberglass parts is premium and he will not lay them up if it's raining or high
humidity, he wants his customers to get a good quality part. Hang in there you will like what he makes for you.
Bill D.
#1675
Thread Starter
Great looking 310, all balsa is a labor of love to build, remembering my 1st one.
Keep up the great work you have going, the reward will be worth all of the time
spent once she breaks ground and flies off into the blue, twins engines humming
along..............gives me goose bumps just thinking about the first flight I witnessed
of one flying on it's maiden.
Keep up the great work you have going, the reward will be worth all of the time
spent once she breaks ground and flies off into the blue, twins engines humming
along..............gives me goose bumps just thinking about the first flight I witnessed
of one flying on it's maiden.
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BIGRCR (08-09-2021)