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"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"

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"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"

Old 04-22-2024, 06:24 AM
  #1726  
cfnicklos
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Wow, great detail on this build. I like how you built new engine boxes, that go all the way back to the wing tube.
I never did thank for posting the, more specific info, about the carbon wing tubes that you put in place.

Still have not had the time to get into retro-fitting new tubes into my 310. Think my challenge is going to be getting the old tube out, and maintain tubing alignment.
- My plan is to make a drill bit out of tubing, that "just" fits over the current tube. Going to use the current tube as a pilot to bore all the way down into the wing.
I am hoping that this will minimize the need for a fixture, as those tubes are already running parallel ...
- will have to measure to make sure. might be able to "float" the tubes at the butt joint to take up minor (a few microns), then tied it down.
As mention, this plan is complete, and trying no to tear into too much.
Old 04-22-2024, 06:41 AM
  #1727  
jsparky
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Originally Posted by cfnicklos
Wow, great detail on this build. I like how you built new engine boxes, that go all the way back to the wing tube.
I never did thank for posting the, more specific info, about the carbon wing tubes that you put in place.

Still have not had the time to get into retro-fitting new tubes into my 310. Think my challenge is going to be getting the old tube out, and maintain tubing alignment.
- My plan is to make a drill bit out of tubing, that "just" fits over the current tube. Going to use the current tube as a pilot to bore all the way down into the wing.
I am hoping that this will minimize the need for a fixture, as those tubes are already running parallel ...
- will have to measure to make sure. might be able to "float" the tubes at the butt joint to take up minor (a few microns), then tied it down.
As mention, this plan is complete, and trying no to tear into too much.
No problem.. but look back on the previous posts.. and you will see those red things that I 3D printed.. that is what I used to align the tubes.. this is a very critical thing to get them aligned properly or they will never fit..
Old 04-25-2024, 01:50 PM
  #1728  
cforcht
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I am currently in the process of building a Nosen 310 from an original kit. Yep doin it old school. Well sorta. Im not using nitro engines. I do have a question for those who have built or owned one. What servos to use for surfaces. Particularly how much torque do they need to have?
Old 04-25-2024, 05:57 PM
  #1729  
jsparky
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Originally Posted by cforcht
I am currently in the process of building a Nosen 310 from an original kit. Yep doin it old school. Well sorta. Im not using nitro engines. I do have a question for those who have built or owned one. What servos to use for surfaces. Particularly how much torque do they need to have?
well think back in history.. when back in the 80's the most powerful servo was about 45 or 50 oz...and analog to boot... so any decent 100 oz digital should work just fine..
Old 04-26-2024, 10:24 AM
  #1730  
cforcht
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Originally Posted by jsparky
well think back in history.. when back in the 80's the most powerful servo was about 45 or 50 oz...and analog to boot... so any decent 100 oz digital should work just fine..
yep you're correct. I hadnt thought about that. So yeah just about any modern servo will suffice, thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Old 04-26-2024, 11:02 AM
  #1731  
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Originally Posted by cforcht
yep you're correct. I hadnt thought about that. So yeah just about any modern servo will suffice, thanks for bringing that to my attention.
actually the ones I am using... some what over kill but price says everything.. and surprisingly enough.. they are made in the same savox factory..

Amazon Amazon
Old 04-26-2024, 02:59 PM
  #1732  
cforcht
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Ya know I actually have some of those. bought a while ago for a project and wound up going a different direction. thanks
Old 05-12-2024, 05:45 AM
  #1733  
jsparky
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Well I can't believe that it has been a grueling 3 weeks since my last post..

And it has been HELL.. trying to get those lousy Robart's retracts working right.. a lot of modifications.. chasing air leaks.. the nose gear and one main gear where bypassing air in the cylinders..

the main was not to much of a problem ,, just a new O-ring.. but the nose ,, I need to machine a new piston and rod assembly with tighter tolerances to get it to stop..

As well I had to put in two valves.. a four way for the mains due to the volume of air they used and a variable restrictor for the nose gear..

The next problem that showed up ,, the gear are specked to support 35-50 lb aircraft..

Not a bloody chance in hell... I ended up machining a plug to go under the spring to put it under tension.. this finally solved the problem of supporting the 35 lb aircraft..

In a bench test this morning.. with two large air tanks.. at 100 psi.. I could get 23 cycles of the gear and it worked reliably down to 20 psi..

all three gear go up and down at the same time ,, and not too bad for speed.. a bit fast for a scale look ,, but I can live with it..

now time to finish the re-construction...





Old 05-12-2024, 07:57 AM
  #1734  
cfnicklos
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Hey there, just some thoughts.
Was thinking that it highly unlikely that the tube bore has worn enough to warrant a new piston.. I assume you have check for any scoring in the tube itself. If so, dont think a new piston will solve the trick
If you do need a larger piston, have you considered a thicker o-ring. Warehouses, like McMaster, have a huge select. Might even be able to go to a bit thicker and smaller in diameter, which would stretch, and decrease the cross-section just a bit, if the thickness alone is too big a jump.
Old 05-12-2024, 09:06 AM
  #1735  
jsparky
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Originally Posted by cfnicklos
Hey there, just some thoughts.
Was thinking that it highly unlikely that the tube bore has worn enough to warrant a new piston.. I assume you have check for any scoring in the tube itself. If so, dont think a new piston will solve the trick
If you do need a larger piston, have you considered a thicker o-ring. Warehouses, like McMaster, have a huge select. Might even be able to go to a bit thicker and smaller in diameter, which would stretch, and decrease the cross-section just a bit, if the thickness alone is too big a jump.
hmm something I did not think of was slightly larger o-ring.. but the gear are new.. bought ten years ago.. so flattened rings is something I did take into account.. hence the replacement in the one main.. but the nose when I was setting it up took some seriously hard hits while I was setting the restrictor valve.. inspection did not show any cracks in the piston and new o-ring only made things worse.. and since parts are no longer available.. a new piston with tighter tolerances was the fix..

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