entity

My Feedback: (14)

for all of you guys that wanted to see the guts inside the polaris fuzion.. I got bored this morning and took some pics.. Ronald.

rcpi

Hey kdubbz,

Your motor is overheating because the motor timing is the wrong way. I had to reverse the motor polarity for the sled to go forward. Then set the timing a few degrees the opposite way (making it advanced once again). Whats happening with your set-up, is the retarded timing draws an enormous amount of power and overheats everything. You have to use a modified motor to be able to change the timing.

entity

My Feedback: (14)

i thought i said something about the polarties were reversed.. lol.. just hope you get her to run good.. We have no snow here in morris.. do you in naperville?

vwfreak

It's a Kodak Easy Share CX7330 3.1 mega pixels (a bit big for a plane perhaps), but I just had to try it!

vwfreak,

kdubbz

My Feedback: (2)

Ahh, so what your saying is that the can on the motor needs to be rotated 180? Im not quite sure what your trying to say with the polarites reversed....

vwfreak

Had to reverse to polarity on my electric sled too! I belive its because there's THREE gears, instead of two like you'd normally find on an r/c car, etc... (the third gear changes the rotation).

vwfreak,

kdubbz

My Feedback: (2)

OO your saying I jus swap the neg and positive on the motor and im good to go?

entity

My Feedback: (14)

should be good to go.

vwfreak

If you've got slow forward & fast reverse then I'd give it a shot. (it won't hurt anything!)

My ESC has forward & brake only, so when I set mine up & hit the throttle the track spun backwards. I switched (reversed) the leads and problem solved... Hope this helps.

Have you checked the throttle control settings on your transmitter too? You never know... (try the motor wires first).

vwfreak,

kdubbz

My Feedback: (2)

I am gonna switch the motor wires. I had the throttle set to reverse not set to normal.

entity

My Feedback: (14)

instead of this.. why don't we all hook up on an i.m.. i have yahoo and msn.. that way we all can work this out. and in the future can offer all new owners to these sleds hop ups and exact directions on how to modify these properly... if you wanna start.. im me at [email protected] or [email protected] I think this could be a really nice set up for all of us on the ground level.. Thanks. www.spazstix.com

makg

hey, im thinking about getting one, and i just want to know how fast it goes stock, how much suspension travel it has stock and how soft the suspensoin is, and some pros and cons of it...thanks

mnkay

Hey guys,


I see you have been busy and creative. Sorry I have not posted in a while but I have been very busy and have had virtually no time to chat, help or build. Nice vid vwfreak. A little music with a slight nitro motor sound would have made it perfect. Nice job.

One thing I have figured out (the hard way) is that my gearing is setup to do over 400mph at 30000 RPM! I had my sled out with a much better triple clutch setup and went ok until the clutch engaged fully and the bog was on. Lifting the track up and letting her rip hit the power band no problem and was kind of cool to watch a track spin at 5000RPM. The track almost took a circular shape like when drag car tires swell when they spin them on the burnout. I am really surprised that the motor started out and actually drove. It is like started out in 18th gear in your car. It is 2.37-1 ratio right now and want it at 8-1 and will be a 74mph machine with the number crunch. This will not be the accelerator monster but will be very quick when at speed. I am in the process of having them machined and fitted. I have also though about running a third pulley to also reduce the ratio and could drop it to a 16-1 ration which be more torque and acceleration that is probably necessary.

Almost all nitro skidoo builds have a transmission installed to increase ratios. Allocating a transmission on a New Brite in the appropriate position would be impossible other than top mounting it. My does not have a transmission so I am going for power and the mach 26 with 2.75hp should do it. If not, I will go bigger displacement instead of a whole redesign at this point. It does work, the videos prove that. Just the fine tuning.

I will keep you posted

vwfreak

I'm not even close to wearing mine out yet, but it doesn't mean I haven't been thinking of how to improve these somehow.
My first thought was to use either a scrap piece of carbon fibre, or thin aluminum as the bottom of the ski (in place of the gray plastic part) Then adding a piece of scale "I" Beam, or "C" chanel to act as carbides (skegs), like the real things.
I'll post some pics once I finish my first set.

*A bit off topic, but has anyone seen these new pocket sleds? Just like pocket bikes for the snow. I've been looking around for one, but haven't found anything for sale. Mostly found these pics on Chinese & U.K. sites. Pretty cool[8D]*

vwfreak,

kwiktsi

Yeah, I tried to think of several ways to improve them. I just used coat hanger to make skegs for them and then wet sanded them smooth again (the were all scratched up) to get them to slide easily. I was using it on my road which is a dirt road that had been plowed and sanded, so some spots were probably like running it over 40 grit sandpaper, that's how I killed mine. I upgraded all the front suspension arms to turnbuckle/heim joint setup and it made a WORLD of difference in handling- plus, now I can "dial in" my front end- toe, camber, etc. I found that it has less drag up front with some toe out set in it. I tried a bit of toe in thinking it would want to push the skis straight and it plowed a bit, so I kept going until it got smoother and found a bit of toe out was actually best- probably more noticeable since I have the skegs on it. Big difference over the stock suspension where it would just kick the skis out and plow through the snow. I'll have to get some pics to show you my setup. I keep toying with the idea of robbing my plettenberg motor from my 14 cell boat and going 14 cells in this thing with belt drive . Just worried it will break more than run with that much power. Oh yeah, I also lowered the back down a bit by relocating the top rear mounting pins to just above the "foot boards"- the track is much flatter on the ground and gets better traction. Plus, it actually jumps pretty decently without wanting to catapult like it did stock..

I'll try to post somce pics in a little bit.
Joe

kwiktsi

Oh yeah, never seen the pocket sleds before. Looks like a nice RC conversion .
Joe

kwiktsi

Here are some pics of the front suspension and the "skegs". Also, you can see how much lower the back sits now in the last pic.
Joe

vwfreak

Nice job!
Do you have any better pics showing where you relocated the rear mounting pins? I have a rough Idea as to what you've done, but a close up picture would be helpful. I had planned on making a new aluminum rear end with a slightly shorter rear piece to drop the track down a bit, but looks like I can just move it a bit for now. Very cool! Thanks!

If you've seen my video, you will see that traction's a bit of a problem for my nitro sled, laying the track flat will help a bit I'm sure.

vwfreak,

kwiktsi

Thanks. I just got some more pics for you. What happened with my sled is one of the mounts where the screws (pins) that hold the rear in broke off and when it broke, it snapped the piece that the pins go into in half (you'll see what I mean when you get to it- the top of the rear shock mounts to it) due to the twist it got when the mount broke. So I had to drill mine all the way through that mount and just use one long rod through it instead of the two shorter pins. I am temporarily using just a piece of 3mm fiberglass rod, but have 3mm aluminum rod and some collars on order. I just drilled through that shock mount completely and then drilled a hole in each side of the tunnel and shoved the rod through it all to hold it. One thing you will notice is once you go completely through that mount with a rod, the shock shaft (phillips head part of it) will hit the rod if it is bottomed out, but I have had no issues with it while using it. It really takes a bit of suspension travel for it to hit. Like I said, the thing jumps very smoothly now- I even made a few today and was blasting over them. Hell, I was just pushing snow into a pile with the snowblower and nailing it with the sled and it never kicked the back end up like it used to. All very level jumps.

It isn't as fast as I would like, but it is a blast now compared to how it was out of the box. The front suspension made a world of difference. I'm sure if I did oil filled shocks with lighter springs, it would be even better. I am currently running a 19 turn motor and juggle between an 18 and 20 tooth pinion depending on conditions, but I may try like a 10 turn and go with the 14 tooth again and see how that works. The 14 cell setup I mentioned is very tempting though [>:]. That would be overkill though I think . I am even thinking of like a Speed 600 motor and gear it up quite a bit. I'll see what happens. I think it is perfect now for what it is, but I like speed too, so I am torn.
Joe

kwiktsi

I should add- be aware when you set the track up, make sure you don't drill the holes too far forwards or it will slack up on you a bit and skip- mine does every once in a while depending on traction. You will probably have to drill the holes back just a bit from where the stock ones were once you move the suspension up.
Joe

vwfreak

Thanks for the information & close up pictures. I'll try it on the electric one first.[8D]

vwfreak,

kdubbz

My Feedback: (2)

OK Dropped in my mod motor and It doesnt over heat anymore. I jus need to work on the rear suspension. It is way to stiff. The reverse is usuless ion snow atleast 3 inches deep. The whole suspension system front and back needs a revamp. Anyone install oil filled shocks on theirs yet? Got some install pics of new suspension systems. also my motor runs in reverse. When I go foward, its usuing reverse and reverse uses foward. How can I switch these around? Thanks, later.

rcpi

Here is another electric Ski Doo snowmobile conversion.

10 cell 3300mah NiMh battery with dual cooling fans installed for larger motor capabilities.

Super Rooster speed control with heat exchanger.

17 turn 2 wind brushed motor with a 14 tooth pinion gear and a external cooling fan. Timing set to 5 degrees.

110 oz/inch Metal gear steering servo.

Futaba radio and receiver.

All lights and fans run off a separate 4.8v battery.

No snow here anymore, but was able to test the motor using a 6 cell battery on wet slushy snow. It went well, about 10 mph or more.

Tried the 10 cell battery, it hauled ass on the grass. Actually able to steer it too. The motor has total power, and instant full rpm. Might be able to increase the motor timing a little, or the pinion size to a 18 tooth.

Just need some snow now!

vwfreak

I belive there's 4 limiting straps on the rear section of the sled in its stock form. Remove them and you'll notice a difference.
A set of oil filled shocks is worth every penny on these sleds. Look at the other threads and you'll see a number of different ideas for mounting a new set of shocks.

*Reverse the wires on the motor to correct your forward/reverse problem. Also double check the settings on your controller/transmitter. Although it looks right for a car, boat, etc... these have 3 gears in the stock gearcase, which changes the final drive's rotation direction*

vwfreak,

vwfreak,

vwfreak

That looks good! Like the cooling fan idea.[8D]
My first attempt on my electric was with a 14 tooth pinion, with a Trinty Monster2 motor (21T I think?)
I had the same thing instant power, but topped out too quickly. So I put in 18 tooth pinion on & it made a difference again. (running 7 cells)
I have a 21 tooth pinion that I may try too, but have been too busy playing with the nitro sled (when there's actually snow that is...)
May have to open up the gearcase a bit more to fit a 21 tooth pinion.

vwfreak,