mrfranswa

Yes.....and no.

I have assembled the entire thing together. As of right now, the motor is used to trip the trigger, and attaches to the handle of the marker, (right now it is just glued on, however later it would be bolted so you can strap any marker into position). The pan and firing work fine, however the tilt keeps on snapping the wimpy connection I am using. It works for about 5 degrees, and after that the weight of the marker just snaps it.

Anotherwords, I am basically having a fatal technical problem. I am trying to think of ways to attach it into position with little/no luck. I guess I will have to go back to the drawing board with the actual device. I have a half-made crappy looking steel version which uses ball-bearings, however since I graduated my selection of tools has greatly reduced. I just don't have the 600$ to buy a mig welder . I would upload pictures of what it looks like, but I want to get a bit more finished. If I didn't have a tilt, the thing would be working gr8 right now

EDIT

Also, I am seeing the reason why most people buy the more expensive equipment.

mrfranswa

UPDATE




Here is the turret as it is right now. As you can see, it pans. tilts, and has a firing option. I am starting to see why some of the electronics are so expensive, because the turret acts like it has CP half of the time, (jitters, has odd feedback).

Another thing which greatly dissapoints me is the fact that my 12kg "ultra strong" servos are weak as crap. Without a spring giving them support they can't even lift the marker with a full hopper, which is way under 12 kg. I know it has a lot of force on it the way it is designed right now, however it should at least be able to tilt about 1/5th it's stall weight 10 degrees.

So, other than me having to go out and get yet ANOTHER spring, the thing shaking erratically every once in a while, and I built it on a non-functioning marker, it works great . For future reference, does anyone know where I can buy some stronger servos?

dknovick

Nice!


What is the rating on the servos? Usually it's torque, and 12kg is just force. You have to take the distance from the servo (the lever arm) into account. So, for instance, if the servo is 100oz/in it can lift 100oz at 1in or 1oz at 100 in.


servocity sells a lots of different kinds of servos.

mojavemonster

How committed to this project are you? Are you willing to take a hacksaw to your gun? I realize this is a proto and probably not your final version, so let me make a suggestion. If it were me I would hack that gun handle off. You have your pivot point too far back. refer to DK's reply.

mrfranswa

Yes, I know it would be easiest to hack off the handle, however I want to keep it. If it works like it should, I am planning on making the marker clamp onto the frame, and the firing gearbox do the same. That way, you can put any marker in it, and have it fire.

Also, I think the big problem with the servos is that the batteries aren't as powerful as I had originally thought. They are under 5v. I will try with a 7v version when I get around to it. However, can anyone answer me why my servos are going crazy, and jittering a lot lately? Could it be that the servos can't reset themselves or something? Any help would be appreciated.

dknovick

That will be better. And if you can clamp it as close to the heaviest item (hopper?), that would be best.


Low battery to the receiver, low battery to the servos. How is your antenna mounted? Do you fully extent your TX antenna?

mrfranswa

No, but I didn't think it was nessisary since I was under 5 feet away from the rig at all times.

I would speculate low battery. While the electric airsoft guns did come with rechargeable battery packs that work, I don't trust the reliability of a cheap as dirt made in china battery. The good news, is that I am receiving a lot of attention for this, and as soon as I get it working properly I think I will easily be able to sell it for a profit, so I can work on version 2. That is why I am not worrying too much about perfecting this design.

As far as clamping, the c.o.g. is located pretty much on the ball-stopper, (which is in the middle of the marker right next to the hopper), when it is full. However, I just added a few rubber bands and it holds itself up with a full hopper. I am looking forward to working on version 2 once I actually have the ability to purchase some more studio supplies, (such as a MIG WELDER!!!! yarg!). Right now the rig is completely front heavy; which is a good thing, because as soon as I mount that tank on the back it will prob be back heavy. Using the triton v1 was really the biggest problem I have had with this, because it is such a heavy marker. The version 2 weighs 1/3-1/2 as much with hopper!

mojavemonster

You should go remote or your air. I was accually assuming that since the co2 wasn't in the picture that it was going to be remote. My fault. Hooking the tank to the gun will be hell on your servos and be very unstable. Adding the weight to the tripod instead will stablize your platform, will keep unnecessary weight offf the servo, and inprove aiming......Oh ya, and hack that dang handle!

HoY

My guess is that your gitters are probably radio interference. the reciever is picking up noise and translating it into slight movements in various directions.

mojavemonster

Your antanna should be raised regardless of the Tx distance to Rx. All electric wire and electronics give off emf. Electrical Magnetic Feild. If your antenna runs too close to servos, rx, electric motor, esc, etc......its going to pick some of it up. Its called noise. Too much noise and the reciever won't know what to do....regardless of how close you are to it. Oh, ya.......let me mention the handle one last time. Ok, done.