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World Models Ultimate 120s

Old 03-05-2002, 12:03 AM
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mrbonk
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Well, here goes. After a couple of weeks of waiting, the *huge* box finally turned up After a quick inspection, I'm very impressed by the quality of the contents. The wings are both pre-joined with the ailerons hinged with metal hinges. The rudder is also already hinged to the fin. The covering is *proper* heat shrink type covering, as opposed to the sticky-back shelf-paper style stuff on some of the cheaper models out there. The cowl is a high quality fibreglass job which has already been painted, as are the wheel spats. The supplied hardware pack is very good, with metric screws etc with decent heads on them. Absolutely everything you need to complete this model is there, right down to the pilot figure and the bright red 70mm spinner. All I'm going to have to do with this model is throw my radio gear and a bottle of glue in the box and shake it up I reckon
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:16 AM
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The fibreglass cowl is really well turned out and painted. Looks very nice indeed!
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:18 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Another shot of the cowl.
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:34 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The manual says to start with the aileron servos. These are hatched into the upper surface of the lower wing. They would look better (ie out of sight) hatched into the *lower* surface of the wing, but there you go. I ran into a problem here......the wing recesses are just too small to accommodate a normal sized servo. The hatch cover has a slot cut in it to allow the servo horn to protrude through from the inside. Unfortunately, if you install the servo as per the instructions so as to allow enough servo travel, standard servos are just not going to fit. My solution is to fit a couple of Hitec HS225BB servos instead. These are higher torque than a standard servo, but are smaller (and lighter).

You'll see (in the attached image) that there are pieces of line laid in the wing to enable you to pull your servo leads through. Great idea You'll need extension leads for your servos too. I've gone for 24" extensions to allow for ease of wing attachment at the field.
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:39 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

A quick test fitting of the lower wing (both wings are pre-joined).
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:52 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The lower wing is fixed to the fuse with 3 metal screws. These thread into blind nuts that have already been fitted to the mounting block in the fuse. The wing looks like it has been bandaged with a fibreglass strip around the middle and the holes in the wing feel very solid when tightening the screws up. Once done up, the wing is held in place very solidly.
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:57 AM
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Default Mounting points inside the fuse

Here's the inside of the fuse. You can see the pre-drilled holes for the lower wing mounting bolts. The former behind the front mounting block looks like it's twisted......it's not . The digital camera distorts stuff a little when it's on the macro setting, but I get a much clearer photo that way
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:09 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

With the wing bolted on, there's a little bit of a gap between the TE and LE and the fuse, but it's not that bad. I'll probably use some radio box tape to cover the gap whenever I fly it, just to stop the oil getting in.
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:15 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

I installed the horizontal stab next. The slot in the rear of the fuse for the stab to go through is actually sandwiched top and bottom with solid balsa, roughly the same thickness as the stab. The instructions call for epoxy to be applied and then for the stab to be slid into place. However, it's a very tight fit (with perfect alignment too I might add) and would force most of the epoxy out the other side.....all over your nicely covered stab. Instead, I chose to get the stab into place and then wick thin CA all around the joint to hold it in place. Then I cut 3 short plugs from a piece of dowel and 'pinned' the stab in place using the balsa above and below it. I epoxied the plugs in place. It's rock solid and far neater than smearing epoxy all over it!
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:17 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The stab in place.
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:19 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The holes for the plugs. These were drilled down through the slot in the rear of the fuse where the fin later slides into place.
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Old 03-05-2002, 02:18 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Fin is next and it's a very simple affair. Put the epoxy in the slot and slide the fin and rudder into place. The slot appears to have been cut with a router into a solid block of balsa, so again, alignment is perfect already.
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Old 03-05-2002, 02:24 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

There is an area at the front of the fin that looks a bit ordinary once it's all in. Easily fixed though, if you can find covering material the same colour.
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Old 03-05-2002, 02:40 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The elevators are the only surfaces that require hinging. The slots that have been cut in the stab and elevators are huge though, so I'm not at all confident that they'll hold, so I'm going to pin them. In fact, I think I'll pin all the other hinges too, just to be on the safe side. The easiest way I've found to do this is to drill the holes with the dremel (much faster so you get a much neater hole), then CA a large gauge pin in the hole. Once the CA sets, cut the end off with some wire cutters.

Here's the tail feathers all installed.
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Old 03-05-2002, 02:50 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The tail wheel was next. It's also very straight forward. Only one word of caution here.....make sure you accurately measure the position of the hole in the bottom of the rudder. If you are too long or too short, you will hinder the movement of the rudder. You need to line up the hinge of the tail wheel mechanism with the hinge line of the rudder. Once you've got the wire bend epoxied into the hole, mount the rest of the mechanism to the bottom of the fuse. When I'm using self tapping screws into wood, I always drill the hole, run the screw in and out, then put some thin CA down the hole to coat the threads in the hole. This gives you much more strength when you go to tighten up the screws. It also seals the wood against oil ingress.

When you fit the tailwheel collar, use some loctite on the grub screw and use a good quality drill-stock hex wrench to do it up. It's so easy to round out these small grub screws by using cheap hex wrenches!
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Old 03-05-2002, 03:00 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Fitting the engine mount was next. The cowl length is such that you need to have 150mm from the firewall to the back of the spinner backplate. I'm using a YS.91AC on this model, so I was forced to block the mount forward to put the spinner far enough forward to clear the cowl. I used a couple of pieces of 12mm pine, cut to shape with my jigsaw and epoxied to the firewall.

A tip here. To find out where to put the holes in the blocks, put your firewall bolts through from the inside so just a little bit of the ends stick out of the front of the firewall. Then you can press the blocks onto them to mark the hole positions.

Of course, the supplied engine mount bolts are not long enough once the mount is blocked forward, so I had to get some 40mm ones. These go through the blind nuts far enough to get a nut on the end of them behind the firewall.

Once I got it all fitted and lined up, I removed the mount and fuel-proofed the blocks with some flat-clear Lustrecoat (the firewall was already fuel proofed with epoxy). I gave the whole inside front of the fuse a squirt with this at the same time, but it's pretty hard to reach all the areas where fuel may end up, so fingers crossed I never get an internal fuel leak!!

I put some loctite on the nuts and after much fiddling with a small box wrench, managed to get them on the ends of the engine mount bolts behind the firewall. There's not a lot of room to move in there, so if you've got big hands, forget about doing this It may not be necessary, but I subscribe to the 'better safe than sorry' theory, particularly when it's small things like this.
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Old 03-05-2002, 03:08 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Test fitting the engine to the mounts.
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Old 03-05-2002, 03:12 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The mount is one of those glass filled nylon adjustable jobs. It's very sturdy, with large webs running down the side of the beams to give it strength. I'm still not sure if I'll end up using this mount instead of the alloy one I bought. I'll run the engine on the model first to see what it looks like. If it's too flexible, I'll mount the alloy one before I fly the model.
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Old 03-05-2002, 03:14 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

The firewall has a considerable amount of right-thrust built in!!
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Old 03-05-2002, 04:10 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

There is a clear half-cowl provided so you can work out where all the holes have to be in the glass one without butchering it Nice thought on the part of the manufacturer. I've worked out where the holes have to be, but I'm leaving the cowl until last so I can make sure everything else is going to fit without needing modifications before taking to this beautiful cowl with a Dremel!
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Old 03-05-2002, 04:20 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Fitting of the heavy duty wire undercarriage is a simple task, with the tried and tested 2-piece gear fitting into a recess in the bottom of the fuse. Each end plugs into a pre-drilled hole in either end of the recess, with a large block behind each hole for the wire to go up into. You're required to drill the holes for the saddles yourself, so take the same approach here with running the screws in and out of the holes, then putting thin CA down the holes to strengthen and seal them.

When you cut the covering film over the recess, if you make one cut down the centre of the recess and then a 'T' cut at each end, you can fold the covering film down into the sides of the recess. It will then be held in place by the very snugly fitting wire gear. Before fitting the gear wires, mask off the recess area and fuel proof the exposed wood with Lustrecoat (or whatever you use for fuel proofing).
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Old 03-05-2002, 04:31 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

I fitted the spats and wheels next. The spats have a slot molded in them for alignment with the the bottom leg of the gear wire. You're required to drill a hole at the very bottom of the slot to allow the gear wire to pass through, then fix a saddle to the side of the spat (across the wire of the gear leg) to hold it in place. You have to glue a ply piece to the inside wall of the spat for the saddle screws to go into. Because of the angle of the side of the inside wall of the spat, the supplied screws are too short to go deep enough into the ply once you put the saddle over the gear wire, so I had to fit longer ones.

In the attached image, you can see the mounting block inside the spat.
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Old 03-05-2002, 04:34 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

When you fit the wheel collars, use some loctite and a good quality drill-stock hex wrench to tighten the grub screw. I've mentioned that earlier, but it's worth saying again. There's nothing worse than a wheel collar falling off in flight, especially with a model this big!
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Old 03-05-2002, 04:44 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Next I fitted the balsa gear-wire covers. These are obviously for nothing more than aesthetic value.....nothing like adding a bit more drag to a biplane eh In order to get these to go on, you'll have to undo the saddles on the spats. Once the saddles are tightened again, these are held in place very tightly. The instructions call for them to be epoxied to the wires, but I think I'll make some saddles and just screw them on, in case I need/want to remove them later.
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Old 03-05-2002, 10:14 AM
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Default World Models Ultimate 120s

Time to make some pushrods. The hardware pack contains some heatshrink to slip over the ends of the dowels after you've epoxied the threaded rods to either end. I prefer to push the threaded rod into place, wrap the whole arrangement in cotton and then soak it in CA. This makes the strongest pushrod ends I've ever seen.

The elevator pushrod is a 'Y' style pushrod (one rod at the servo end, 2 rods attached to the elevator end). I've never been a big fan of this method of operating separate elevator halves, but as the rest of the hardware works so well, I thought I'd give it a go and assemble it as per the instructions. It actually works quite well, but it took me a lot of fiddling to get both sides of the pushrod out of the exits in the fuse. I didn't take a photo of the arrangement before I fitted it to the fuse and I'm not about to take it out to do so!! I'll leave it as is for the moment, but if I suspect that it's not working properly, I'll be replacing it with 2 separate pushrods and servos.
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