edwal07

Well today we started the throttle linkage and servo, fuel tanks and plumbing, and installation of the smoke system. There is a nice servo box included with the kit, however there is no recommendation of where or what to do with it other than a picture. Anyway the DLA56 comes with short throttle and choke arms on the Walbro carb. The throttle arm is removeable and easy to remove. It came turned up, (down with the engine inverted). A slot is the alignment key and can be removed and rotated upward of which I chose to do. I used a long servo arm and cut off the shaft end and used the throttle arm as a guide so the small hole in the end would align with the innermost hole of the servo arm. Once I had it screwed into place I marked where the hole for the throttle shaft would come thru the servo arm. I drilled the hole to provide a snug fit over the throttle shaft. With a touch of thick CA under the throttle arm I screwed the throttle arm to the servo arm, pushed it onto the throttle shaft, aligned the keyway and installed the retaining screw with a touch of Loctite Blue to make sure it dosen't come out. This gives you a wide range of options for throttle linkage, long, short, or midway, to adjust your throw depending on the arm on your servo. I used an Aeroworks control rod and two of the control ends for the throttle linkage. I wanted to mount the servo box under the front lid close to the engine, after measuring and aligning I found I needed to cut off 3/8" of the bottom of the box to mount it inside and at the top rearward area. This gave me a straight shot to the throttle arm. I used the same size arm on the servo and securedthe linkagein the next to the lasthole on the servo arm andthe last hole on the throttle arm This gave me a fully closed and wide open throttle with no sub trim or stop adjustments.
The inside of the fuse got a full coat of thinned epoxy before I started the throttle linkage so it would be cured when I had finished. I chose a Dubro 32oz fuel tank and a 16oz smoke tank. After installing the stopper, pickup tubes and vent lines I placed it in the plane to make sure I would have room for the smoke tank. After bending and routing tubing it fit like a glove, with the smoke tank next to the fuse wall on the right front side to provide clearance for the throttle servo arm. I used a "T" in the fuel line to provide for filling and added 2 PSP Fuel Dots, they come in colors, I used red for gas and blue for smoke. These were installed on the right side front after adding a 1/16th" spacer and 1/16th" backer plate inside the fuse lighting hole.
The Pitts muffler was drilled and tapped for a Bisson smoke fitting. High temp tubing added and run to tygon back toward the smoke pump. The Sullivan Smoke Pump will be mounted on a plate which I made to cover the open area under the motor box. The kit comes with a cover for the top of the motor box but nothing to cover this large area. I used 1/16th ply with another piece just smaller to fit inside as a support and backer for the Smoke Pump. I will use an 8cell 1800mah 9.6v AAA NiMh battery pack to power the pump which is ample as the pump only draws about 175mah when in use, plenty to go thru a tank of smoke oil.
Mounting the pump, electrical and lines are next. After that I will start on the cowl. Once those are installed and complete a complete assembly and CG check are in order. Then I will mount the receiver and smoke batteries. Getting closer to that maiden flight.

charlesp

is it just the RX u need 12" away from the engine or was it all servos also? I ask becouse of the location of the throttle servo. I didnt think i could put mine that close. Also do u still have the spring on the carb or did you take it off? Thx

edwal07

Yes you need at least 12" from the ignition to the receiver. You can mount servos up in or near the motor box, you just need to add the Filter Rings from JR to prevent noise. You put the rings on the end of your servo wire extension as close to the receiver as possible, and you need to wrap at least 3 full turns thru the ring. I have used them on 4 of my planes and have not had any problem. I have one plane with the throttle and choke servo within 2" of the ignition and have not had any problems.
Here is a picture of the package top with all the info you need and you can get them thru Horizon Hobbies. Also here is a picture of the mounts I am using which I get from Lowes, you get 10 for about 3.00. Hope this helps.
Also make sure no metal to metal contact between motor and throttle servo on the control linkage.

edwal07

Finally closer to being finished. Tonight was cowl cutting and fitting, The cowl is a good a quality of any ARF I have done. It is sturdy and well made. Using the Pitts muffler with the long down tubes required me to cut the cowl in half at the bottom to allow it to be fitted around and then onto the fuse. If you make your cutout first, of which I drew a straight line down the center of the bottom of the cowl, measured the width of the cylinder head, and drew out a rectangle the right width but left it short at the bottom and the front. I then use a sharp pair of sissors and cut the cowl in half toward the back. This allows the cowl to be spread open to install. Then I worked the cowl onto the plane and drew more cutouts as needed. This way you have a custom cut cowl. You can use a piece of thick paper stock, turn the plane upside down and cut out the paper to fit over the engine and muffler. This would be fine if you knew exactly where the cowl will fit onto the front of the fuse. My way allows you "wiggle" room. Just be judicious with your cuts, you can always take more off, but you can't put more back on, not without a lot of work or a new cowl. Just be careful with your fitting. The lines matched up really well on the sides, I was impressed with this portion, I like the quality and the fit. Here are the pictures. If you take your time you can have a really nice cowl to spinner fit as well as the match lines on the sides.

edwal07

Installed the new tailwheel from Aeroworks. I like this setup much better than what came with the plane. Rechecked servo screws (loctite on all) readjusted the pull pull cables and put the canopy holddown bolts in place. Not much left to do. Have to check CG and mount batteries. Then we'll be ready for the Maiden. Thanks for hanging in there with me and I hope this has been fun and interesting. Looking forward for that first flight.

charlesp

went to fire up my dle55 and for some reaspn i cant get it to draw gas. everything is tight (no air leaks) but it will not draw it from tank to carb. Any ideas as to what I could do. (trying to bench run it)
let me know were yours has the CG come out.


thx

edwal07

When yousay "air tight no leaks" I assume you are talking about the supply line from the tank to the carb? Is your vent line open? Remove the line from the carb and see if gas is coming thru the line, sometimes when you push the fuel tube thru the rubber stopper it will have pieces of rubber inside. If you have fuel thru to the carb, check to make sure the line from the case to the carb is open, the one that sends the pulses to the diaphram in the carb (the pump). If all else fails, remove the screw from the plate on the carb and check the filter screen which will be located in the carb side and make sure it is not stopped up and that the small flaps on the gasket are not stuck to the carb or to the plate or damaged in any way. These flaps act like reed valves and allow the fuel to flow and be pumped to the engine. First thing I would do is remove the line from the carb and blow into the vent line to see if you have fuel flow. Then I would go to the carb and pump area. Hope this helps.

charlesp

I could get gas to the carb if i blow into the vent line and to the top of the carb (engin upsidedown) if i open the float by hand. I do have the pulseline open and sending a pulse to the carb. Ill check the flaps on the carb side when i get home from work, hope thats it.

edwal07

Either the flaps are stuck or you have a hole in the diaphram. Each one would cause it not to pull gas thru the line. You should be able to watch your fuel line pulse if you put your prop just about top dead center and hold the spinner and rock it back and forth before TDC or compression. I do that to prime my engines prior to start, you should see the fuel move up the line to the carb. Be careful with the gasket with the flaps. Check to make sure they are not damaged. Wet the gasket with gas/oil mix prior to putting it back in place, that will lubricate the flaps. And be sure the screen filter is clean. If dirty use a screwdriver and lift up on an edge of the screen and it will come out, then clean and reinsert, make sure it is seated and take care not to bend it out of shape.

charlesp

think i got it, diaphram was not rightside up. Gas is getting to the carb side now. Maybe i can start it this week, just havent ben able to work on it the way i want to.


thx

edwal07

Great, sometimes it's just little things that make a problem seem huge. Air, fuel and a spark, that's the 3 things to start with when they just won't run.

edwal07

Well today was the day I have been waiting for. All I can say is, "This is one great Plane and Engine combination." All the hard work was worthwhile. By following the recommendations I have made in this forum, I am sure you will be as pleased as I.
I must say something about the DLA56 engine. It is awesome, easy to start, good power and a great workhorse. Out of the box I got 6450rpm with a Zoar 22X8, after a tuning session after the first flight I got 6975rpm with only a few tweeks of the needles. Good transition, no hesitation, and it sounds great.
I had a great friend of mine Jim Griffin do the honors of "Test Pilot" for the maiden, not only is he a fellow hobbist but a real Pilot to boot. With him at the controls there was no doubt in my mind this maiden would go off without a hitch. After a flight plan was organized the engine started within 5 flips, 3 with choke and 2 with it off. Down the runway and up it went, only a few clicks of trim were needed. The CG was set at the recommended 6 and 11/16ths from the top center wing rib. I also think mounting the smoke pump under the motor box helped as no extra weight was needed.
Three flights with no problems, hands off straight flight, no bad tendancies. Stalls were slow and no sliding off the wing. Do note I did set the top wing for 1.2degrees of + incidence. The bottom is at 0 with the stabilizer. This allows the top wing to stall first and makes a nice transisition. Landing are powered, no gliding this bird in, power till wheels down.
I hope everyone got something from this, I did a great plane and a great engine. Thanks and enjoy the pics.

charlesp

great to here it flew well for you, and the pics are awsome. concgatz

edwal07

Here is a video of the maiden supplied by my good friend Phil Griffin:

Part 1 Takeoff: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c923odDS26k

Part 2: Flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DDcfb8jQz0

TheEdge

My Feedback: (788)

What size spinner is needed please?

edwal07

I used a 4" tru turn with lightened backplate.

TheEdge

My Feedback: (788)

Thanks Ed, I will be using an Evolution 50GX, did you have to add nose weight?

pappy69

Hi there!!!
I have a question for you!!
I see in your pictures that you have 2 pairs of A123 calls.
Thats 5000mAh through BEC for the receiver or 2cells for receiver and the other 2 for the ignition?
It confuses me because i see a NiMh pack as well which supposed to be the ignition power right?
I got the same engine and i plan to install it in a toni clark's tiger Moth (2,70 wingspan) and my setup will be similar to yours

regards
Pappy

edwal07

Hi,
No I did not add any weight at all to the nose. It balanced out perfect without any weight added anywhere. I was supprised but the CG was spot on. I mounted the receiver batteries as in the pictures and it worked out great. Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks
Ed

edwal07

Hi Pappy,
I have 2 packs of A123 in the fuse for Rx power 2300mAh each or 4600mAh for both. One A123 pack, 2300mAh for ignition on a regulator. And I have a seperate 9.6v NiMh pack (AAA cells) for the smoke pump. I wanted the smoke pump to have its own power supply and not pull any from the RX plus the 9.6v putsalittle extra kick in thesmoke pump. The smoke pump ismounted underneath themotor box on the front bulkhead. Maybe that is whyI did not have to add anyweight. Anyway it all came out to the good and it flies great. Waiting for the weather to improve and try it with the smoke. Been pretty cold herelately.But it won't be long for the weatherto warmup.
Thanks
Ed

georbeckha

My Feedback: (12)

Just wondering where you guys have balanced your Ultimates at...
I have started balancing mine and it is very tail heavy balancing at 109mm from the LE of the top wing. (Mind you, I did it without the cowl on but that is not that heavy)

Thanks all
George

edwal07

Hi George,
I don't remember the measurement, however it was what the instructions indicated and it balanced on the money. It should balance at the main spar of the top wing, or center of the joining block of the top wing, have someone put their finger under one wing tip and you on the other and slowly lift up, mine balances exactly on the front of the sparand flies great. Or make sure you are not measuring from thecenterof the wing, Measure at a point even with the sides of the fuse there will be a difference as the wing is tapered or angled. Make sure you have all items installed before trying to balance your bird. You can leave the batteries loose if you have to move them for balance. You can't balance it if everything is not installed as the weight will not be correct. Like I mentioned I have my smoke pump mounted under the motor box on the bulkhead, so that gives it alilttle extra weight up front about 4+ ozs. Plus the throttle servo and A123 battery pack and regulator inside the motor box. Let me know how it comes out.

Ed

manoo

It is useful information so keep maintain your work and also try to provides the best and beneficial information for readers. Keep it up and make more such a useful posts.
ames tribune

charlesp

how much led u guys put up frunt I am over 1lb thx

charlesp

Well yesterday was the day got to the flying site at about 12:30 and after talking to a new member in the club, I unloaded the truck and started putting my planes together. 1.20 size edge, 40 size GP ultimate (built last year) and the 50 cc Ultimate I flew the little 40 size first and I was a nervous wreck. After some other member flew their planes it was time. I was stressing pretty good by this point (This is my first big bird) I started flipping the 55cc DLE with the choke on and its not firing, i keep flipping. LOL forgot to turn on the switch for the plug. after some more filliping she came to life. ran it for a bit to make sure it wasn't loaded up at all. She taxied out on to the runway. I made a couple high speed passes without leaving the ground, testing control on the ailerons and roll out length. After a quick check of wind sock about 5or 6 mph. no more putting it off it was time to go. I eased the left stick forward, little rudder correction to the left. I eased the stick up about 3/4 up and she rotates!!! climbing about 20-30* with plenty of power. (DLE 55 is more then enough power). climbed up to about 200' , banked left and leveled off. I let go of the sticks. Straight and true she flew. I couldn't believe it, no trim!! wow made some laps, nothing too crazy. Made some speed changes to see were it would stall and it was time to bring it in. I slowed down on my down leg and started my descending turn onto finale. Had to give it a little extra throttle as i was not sure of the air speed and knew i wasn't going to be long. As she passed the threshold she was coming in and dropping slowly. A little of aileron correction and she settles in for a 3 point landing, and rolls out. what a nice flying plane

All the hard work relly payed off

this is a clip of the ultimate landing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fniw...e_gdata_player