GTX SlotCar

Gary, assuming your tail motor isn't heating up (causing it to be less efficient), you might try lubing your tail rotor shaft and bearings. It worked wonders on my DF4 and BCP.

goroviro

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goroviro

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Jack

Rollin Thunder

Is anyone using the DD tail system with the stock main motor (370, 10T)?
If so please speak up. You have info that would be helpful to my R&D.
Thanks

Gary JP4

Rollin Thunder,

I removed a tail motor about a week or two ago and had one from a blade CP in stock. When I went to use it I happened to turn the gear by hand and it was making a crunching sound. I took it apart and the carbon brush had fallen off one side and broken. By the way, the DF4 motor didn't have any carbon brushes. The brass or copper spring that goes out to the armature splits into about 5 little fingers where it touches the armature.

I also had a GWS long can motor so I pressed off the pinion from the new Blade motor that was bad and drilled it out and pressed it on the GWS motor. I tried this combo using the stock gear set up and it was way too powerful. I cut the tail rotor down about 1 cm at a time (scribing with calipers and cutting with scissors). When it finely trimmed out it was less then half the original diameter. It still had too much power during rapid acceleration. Also felt kind of tail heavy and awkward even though I had it balanced. I went back to stock with a new Blade motor from my LHS.

I don't know if this will help your R&D project but I also would like to know how well the DD set up works. I haven't heard many details on set up and how well it works.

Gary JP4

Thanks Gary,

I did that when I got it but haven't again for awhile. I will try it again.

I had a new tail motor when I complained. After a couple of batteries it seems to be better. I did the water glass break in for a few minutes. Maybe that wasn't long enough. I thought my 4 in 1 was going out but seems fine now for the last few batteries.

I never crashed while learning to hover with the training gear on! Now I do a lot of crashing. I am trying more forward flight now in an aircraft hangar. I have to shut down sometimes to keep from hitting things. Most of my crashes are controlled a little bit (glancing blows to the ground or high speed landings) but sometimes I am going pretty fast and slide into things (the wall, doors, etc). With the power cut I can usually just straighten the blades out and go again. What a great trainer! But, this means things are constantly changing on the model.

Yesterday I had about a 30' dia 360 going with constant bank. The second time around I was a little wide and had to shut down to keep from hitting something, landed on the skids and slid for about 30'! The first time I tried this I had one skid on the ground the whole way around. I think this hard toweled concrete floor is the perfect place to learn.

The hangar is full, now all I can do is hover so, I guess I’ll go home.

Thanks

buhojean

I am using dd and it works well, I want change my mail motor for the graupner speed 300 6v is the best.

Rollin Thunder

JP4
How was your flight time with the cn12 motor?
Did your main motor still have plenty of power?
What lipo are you using?

I'm using the DD system for the tail and a Graupner speed 300 6v 9T for the main with an 1800mah 10C lipo. CG is right on, but i have supper skids (pardon me GTX) so that's easy to adjust for. I am getting very powerful climb rates from start to finish. Tail authority is solid. My flight time is 15min. This is the best configuration yet, but still have more ideas to test. The tail is done, DD system is a keeper (for my setup that is) If you could answer the questions above I can give you my best guess as to how well the DD system will work for you.

buhojean

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...modifications+
Walkera 4 pictures and modifications the fans Df4 is here, the best inventions in your df4.
Here's the link to the video DF4
http://users.ncable.net.au/~greggy/
here the help is very good.

Rollin Thunder

buhojean
That is a very good thread already read both parts.

What lipo are you using
How long is your flight time

I'm already working on perfecting the speed 300 motor upgrade.
We can help each other in that respect.

Gary JP4

Rollin Thunder,

I don't know about flight time because I only ran one battery and I shut down and cut the tail rotor down during about 10 one minute test flights. I didn't finish that battery because I didn't like the way it was flying. The tail would move about 30 degrees and surge back with almost scary response to my recovery input when I would power up hard (start a climb or recover from a decent). That was what I was trying to make better. The tail was loud with that little cut down tail rotor.

The main motor power was good. But, I was only hovering. I didn't notice any difference there unless I added a bunch of rudder then I could tell there was a loss in main motor power (it would drop). The tail would go crazy too. Very aggressive. That is not exactly what I was looking for.

My favorite battery is the Poly-quest 1200mah 20c 2 cell 7.4v. I also have the E-Flite 1200 mah by Thunder Power which I think is a 10c.

PS if you read this before I edited it I was getting my helicopters mixed up.

I have the DF4 with E-flight main motor with 10 tooth pinion, E-flight tail motor, double heat sinks main and tail, Flyingsport skids with tail boom support and fins, GWS Naro servos, CNC Aluminum top link, and Blade CP canopy. I can't edit my pictures small enough to post yet.

helicopters

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i got 15 mins of flight time with the stock battries if that helps you guys. just for a quick change then we can go back to what we were talkin about before. my tail motor kicks in and out for no reason. thats why i like my 90 it is shaft. what do i do to sold the problem?

Gary JP4

Helicopters,
It could be the gear is sliding off, loose. If that is it you would push the rubber grommet or fuel tube on tighter. If is is loosing power it could be the 4 in 1 going bad or being affected by another component going bad like a servo. It could be the tail motor is going bad. Give us a little more info. What is the situation were you are loosing it? Did you have a previous post on this. Sorry, I couldn't find one. Ref: "then we can go back to what we were talkin about before. my tail motor kicks in and out for no reason"

helicopters

My Feedback: (3)

the heli is brand new. i checked the gear and nothing. they shur dont make them like the raptors.

Rollin Thunder

JP4
sounds like it would be worth the $5 gamble to get the prop set for your cn12 motor.

GTX SlotCar

Try lubing your tail rotor shaft and bearings - even if they feel OK to you.
If they made them like the raptors, they'd be too heavy to fly. But, for less than the price of CF raptor blades, they're a lot of fun.

Rollin Thunder

GTX
Whats the word on the new lipo project? will it have a balance lead? if so what kind.
Thanks

RcDriftEst

Hi, has anybody any idea what to use as CA debonder from home chemistry? I need to get that CA´d tail boom off.

Rollin Thunder

RcDrift
Try acetone or ethyl acetate (finger nail polish remover)

Rollin Thunder

buhojean
Nice flying. That's more my style. I like the wood blades for outside, it handles the wind way better and the head speed is good.
I have to ask what size pinion are you using on the speed 300. I'm using a 9T, but am waiting on an 8T to arrive. I'm hoping the 8T will give me longer flight time and cooler temps without losing much power.

10T is very powerful, but the motor and lipo get to hot and the flight time is short.
9T is powerful, the motor is cooler but still hot. The lipo gets worm. Flight time is 15min

Thanks

GTX SlotCar

The new LiPos shouldn't be too long now, but things never move along as fast as I'd like them to. They will have a standard 3 pin balance connector and about 2 1/2" leads. The JST should have 18 awg super flex leads about 3 1/4" long.

don_87

Sometimes this hobby can get aggravating, 1 problem after another. replaced the steering gear assembly on my 22d last weekend, with the new "Z" parts( had a devil of a time figuring it all out ) and of course they are all different. Still can't get the steering gear holder to stay tight on the boom(3 screws plus CA).
Now it seems my rx has a bad solder joint in it or something. The servos are twitching randomly and the motor is speeding up and slowing down . It gets worse when I tap on the rx.
Ive tried the heli in different locatios, I put the antenna along the tail boom, I've even let it hang straight down. Same thing happens. I've inspected the boards as best i can, but can't see anything wrong other than a few apparent cold solder joints. But everything is so small in there, that i don't think I would be able to touch up too many of the joints.
Sooooooo here we go again ordering more parts. LOL.
Maybe just maybe, the new rx i order will be ok.
If I ever get done buying parts for this one, I can get the parts I need for my #4.

Rollin Thunder

don 87
Don't order that tx yet. The same thing happened to mine. I retouched every solder and disassembled it about 5 times. In the end it was so simple. The Cristal was lose, I just bent the pins so it was tighter and that fixed it.

don_87

Rollin Thunder, I haven't ordered it yet. I did a little more tinkering with it. I adjusted the delay all the way to the left and it stopped the twitchy stuff, but now the tail spins so fast just breathing on the stick that i can't control it. i'll try adjusting the limit, not sure if that will slow it down or not.

Rollin Thunder

don 87
Did you press on the crystal to see if that was the problem?