chris6414

My Feedback: (10)

Slide the rubber ring that holds it on closer(tighter). If it doesn't hold it tight I would use some plastic control rod like I did. It holds much better that the stock tubing material. Be careful not go too tight as a little resistance in the gear from rubbing causes the motor to over heat quickly from the drag. The gear also may just be worn out.

f4j

I got it. The tail bearing was missing. From a crash I suppose. Hell I didnt even know it had one.
It was also missing from my original chopper so I used one from its main rotor, removed and rescrewed the motor and it works great now.

Thank you GTX, thank you Scoo I'd almost given up.

skooba68

Happened to me too, It took forever to find the little thing .[8D]

GTX SlotCar

OK, I sent you a PM.

crashn_bernstein

gary, thanks.

Since these are some of my first posts here, i'll say a couple of words and contribute what I know so far,

This forum rocks. I wish I had found it a couple of days before i got my heli, instead of afterwards. The attitudes, help and comroderie are outstanding. It does not get any better than this! I read the WHOLE forum before posting this, and that took me since XMAS. LOTS of great information!!

I hope to someday be able to hover. My #4 does not lift off very well, lots of random (left pitch or right flop over action). If i am quick enough and compensate enough, i can get it into a brief hover. Unfortunately, my kitchen is VERY small, and the wife wont let me fly it in the living room (probably a good idea). In my training, i have hit/crashed into a few things (ok, quite a few). Many skids and a couple of frames later, i have finally busted a main blade. The way i was going, it should have broken long ago. I also busted the 'top frame connector' (the design seems very weak). Like another poster said, "JB weld is my new best friend". AMEN

While my #4 had plenty of power to lift off, i decided to cut my main blades 2cm or so, to increase the head speed required for lift off. It seems to have helped. A little less unexpected pitch and a little more stable. But no where as stable as in some of the videos that users have posted. Perhaps even more scrutiny is needed in my setup.

Concerning replacement parts, this is what i have found.

1) Skids are junk. The T connector is the weak point. Cant wait to get some SuperSkids. Got some 2mm Carbon rod, but I have yet to break an actual stick 'leg'. The frame of the skid goes first.

2) I have broken 2 frames. Both at the back. One about 1" forward of the tail boom assembly. Right about where the tail boom ends in the shaft. It broke clean away from the upright servo backing / centerline upright. After several quick fixes with the CA, I got ahold of some JB weld quick set. Stuff rocks. But still a break. So some flat CF bar, cut just right to fit in the small indent between the tail boom holder and the rest of the frame, some JB, and it is MUCH sturdier. Kinda sucks that the plastic mold they use has all those releifs cut in it. Makes the part alot less sturdy. If it were a simple sold cast (like around the motor, then IMHO, it would be much sturdier.

3) As I said earlier, i have broken the 'top frame connector'. Much harder to fix, but i ended up putting JB weld to fill up the slot, then dremeled the required notch for the blade holder, and popped it back on. I'm sure that this has something to do with my inbalance, but WHAT the heck, the need to fly is sometimes greater than the will power to wait for parts!

FYI: I did mistankenly order a "CNE001B" from Heli Hobby. Close, but no cigar.

4) The stock tail boom is thin. Mine first started cracking spiraly. Kinda coated it with CA, then using gloves, twisted it slightly both ways, while rubbing in the CA. Let it cure,and it became alot more stiff, but in the end, still failed. The local hobby store carries the EFLite Blade CP, and the tail boom looked close (Eflite PN# RFLH1160 Tail Boom BCP), so I picked it up. It is a much thicker piece of CF, and subsequently, the wire hole is much smaller. But not too small not to be able to fit the wires in. I had to cut some off (btw, I have found that a dremel with a cutoff wheel works great) to bring it to the correct lenght, but it works, was a local buy, and is MUCH stronger. It weighs a little bit more, so i had to add some balast on top of the 4&1 to bring the CG back in line. By looking at the Main blade arc, and the tail rotor arch, i could trim some more off and perhaps use less balast. BUT, i already have to fly with full left rudder trim, so making it shorter might give me less effect, requiring even more trim. I was thinking about using another one that is longer still to see if that would effect the tail tracking. Hmmmm? Any IDEAS?

5) Getting the connectors out of the male end of the tail rotor lead is next to impossible. So, I reversed the leads. Now the female ends are attached to the tail rotor wire, and the male socket comes from the 4&1. Took some work (but i do a lot of soldering anyways, and an electric de-solder helps ALOT). Now, when required, i can use a razor blade to gently lift the plastic tab on the connector, slide out the two female prongs and be able to wiggle them out of the frame.

This heli is really addicting. Finally, a small heli with an atractive price point. I have to admit, that I have spent just as much, if not more, on parts and such, but hey..........

Thank you to all the previous posters for your emense help. Just reading has elevated my knowledge.

Well, the JB weld has cured and the battery is full, time to try and fly.

crashn

skooba68

You are right about this forum, there are alot of great people on here. We have some engineers, I'm not one of them and at times have no clue what they are talking about, but they are great guys who love to help. By the way , why do we not have any female members here? maybe females don't go through a second childhood?

gregjacob

Evening all,

Ok, this board is hard to keep up with, I just about finished reading the first 43 pages and bam, another 10 are here ! but that's what makes it a good board I guess. Sorry I couldn't make the dinner invite.


I'm waiting for my new tail rotor from ehobby, but in the mean time, i've been working on trimming out the heli. Is it absolutely necessary for the swashplate to be perfectly level? I have the paddles flat and the main blades are tight.

Could it have been the fact that the tail rotor was messed up to why it wasn't hovering? When the parts come in, I'll video a bit of it and post it.

Also, I still think my batteries are bad. In a non engineer way.... (lol) How do I test the pack?

Thanks for all the great info.

Greg

crashn_bernstein

Hey greg, whats the link to ehobby? are they in the US?

In looking at the heli-hobby.com site, they have the following items:

http://www.helihobby.com/html/dragon_fly_upgrades.html

will any of these fit our models?

crashn

skooba68

The blades shouldn't be to tight. They need to be able to self balance.

heli hobby does sell parts for this heli but, from I saw they sell parts for a GWS mini Dragonfly, which I think is a different heli. I'm not sure which of those parts will work on the Walkera but, I'm sure somebody here can tell you more.

oops

Hi Skooba68.

Popular opinion of those flying the #4 is that the blades should be *very* tight, so that you set them by hand before flight.

I know this flies in the face of conventional heli wisdom, but #4 blades are high-drag blades, and very light - hence have little mass to center them. Commonly, loose blades on a #4 unless carrying a heavy load (eg, bigger batteries) results in gyroscopic instability and control response issues.

Regards
David

skooba68

Mine are tight enough to not flop around but, loose enough to move with my hands.

GTX SlotCar

David, I think that was popular for a while. Many of us now find that it's best to leave them a little loose. Not so loose that they flop, but if you tap them, they should move.
These little FP helis are designed so that the blades are supposed to change angle (not pitch) a bit as the heli changes direction. The tangent angle to the head will change a little. The trick is to tighten both blades the same amount.
Mine works better this way, but if someone else is having good luck with them really tight, hey, whatever works.

gregjacob

Here is the link of the place I found to have #4 stuff. I purchased 4 tail rotors and 2 tail support bars. Which now that I'm thinking of it, was one to many. I have an initial list of upgrades I want to do, but I think I really should see if I can get this off the ground first as is, before I start messing with it. Still not exactly sure what battery to purchase. As I said in a way earlier post. I am new to the copter stuff. I hope I purchased from a good vendor. ( my disclaimer)..LOL

http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-38176160...ter-parts.html

Greg

davetay

Hi All

Crashn - I agree this forum is as good as the flying itself. (well my flying anyway)
I have a broken t connector as well. The superskids will sort us out.

Keep us up-to date on how the hovering is going.
I'm in the same position - have flown gliders no problem, but this is like riding a bike blindfolded.
Just need to get past the 'O ****' phase.

Would love to see my #4 flown by someone else just to prove I haven't got something just not quite right.

Interesting views on blade tightness - and still to scared to clip mine.

For info I'm purchasing stock parts from heliguy.com stuff in the UK - arrived within 2 days.

Apart from the excellent looking Superskids and new blades out there are there any other upgrade purchases possible?? - ie machined aluminum parts,
seen them for the next models up are any interchangeable??

Regards to all
Dave

(It's dark here in the UK - and I have the smallest kitchen in the world)

crashn_bernstein

Dave,

I too have a really small kitchen. Took her outside just a minute ago, but the wind kicked up and kicked me down. oops.

I have tried to find the right 'top frame connector'. I had ordered one (CNE001B), but it did not fit. I orderd the #04-014 from Heli-hobby, but it too is too big. The bearing spindles are longer, with a raised portion close to the center hub. With these longer bearing spindles, it does not fit in the blade holder. I trimmed and shaved, sanded and fitted and it worked for a while, but I REALLY would like the right part. Since I will be on TDY for 2 weeks, I can try a source in the UK, since the parts should be waiting for me when I return. I'll have to make do while with the modified one. It works ok,kinda.

For anyone that makes parts, the top frame connector in alum. would be killer. I know I would buy a couple.

Well, hovering is getting a little better. Baby steps I guess.

Good luck to all,

crashn

crashn_bernstein

In looking for parts online, maybe my problem is i dont have the right blade holder. are they different among versions? maybe my top frame connector is correct, just not the blade holder (or whatever its called)

fly well,

crashn_bernstein

dont mean to keep posting so many in a row, but.....

just also noticed that the current 04-001 (what i have been calling the blade holder) has plastic nuts for the blade holding bolts. Mine does not. it simply threads into the plastic. maybe its an older version. anyone with some expertise in this?

I was thinking that mine was on 05 (or latest) 'cause it came with the fiberglass stiffner. but maybe thats the only part thats on the upgrade list. hmmm........

I wish that Walkera would make it easier. but, like i said before, its a good price point (EXCLUDING parts during the learing curve). But i'd rather learn on this.

Dave, I agree. I wish someone who knew what the H**L they were doing would fly mine. It is entirely possible that its me (although I'm going on the assumption that its not. hehe)
But just to see it hover, stable would be a real blast. that way, i know the goal is obtainable. The chap who has it flying near the christmas tree (post several pages ago); his looks solid as a rock. Me, not so much

SO, IF ANYONE IS IN OR AROUND THE WASHINGTON DC AREA, DROP ME A PM.

Well, back to searching for parts and doing minor repairs. I'm going to prep the 'top frame connectors', so when one breaks (and you all know it will), the spares are ready to go. See thats the issue, i always order at least 2. peroid. mostly dont care what it is, but for stuff like this, always at least 2. so, that being said, i have 3 top frame connectors (not to mention 2 x CNE001B), and none of them are the right parts.

skooba68

I also have no nuts.[X(] I ordered mine from hobby4less and it is supposed to be version5.

GTX SlotCar

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3611551]THIS POST[/link] may help explain it.

skooba68

Gary is that supposed to be a version 5? the pic doesn't show the head stiffener that I have.

davetay

Hi Gary

Got the throttle working with dip4 set to on - I now have to have the throttle trim on it's lowest setting now else the blades will spin with the stick right down, is this correct?
It is really sensitive - Luckily I had 24 house bricks holding it down with the main blades removed while testing.

I only have to look at the throttle and the blades start spinning reasonably fast - don't think it would want to take off straight away, throttle reversed (dip4 set to off) I had a lot of slow blade spin to start - I reckon the thing will lift off now before half throttle now, I wondered if this is the norm take off wise and that the trim set as low as possible is correct.
If not I feel I may have a dodgy radio.

Also If I have the trim set anything other than as low as it will go when I switch on the radio the blades will not start.

Would appreciate your thoughts and anyone else's on the above.

Regards
Dave

Weighed the blades (12.5g 'ish') each, ...because I could.
Looking like Pilot error everyday

crashn_bernstein

GTX,

Once again your posts are most informative. By the description, i definately have the 2005. Collar on main gear, circlip, fiberglass, etc.... I guess I got some 2004 Top Frame connectors, as they dont fit the 2005 I seem to have.

The head with the nuts (ok, ok) what year version is that?

crashn_bernstein

crashn_bernstein

bizz ciera,

are you out of the 2005 top frame connectors, as it says on ebay?

crashn_bernstein

GTX SlotCar

It's showing mixed version pictures like most of these ads do. The sellers are too lazy or busy to take pictures of the actual product and don't think anyone will notice, so they use stock photos. The vers. 5 DF4 also has a metal plate on the bottom of the main gear and the picture clearly shows an older version. Never trust the photos, I guess.

GTX SlotCar

I can only offer my opinion, and even that is hard to determine sometimes without being able to look at something myself. It's not normal to be that sensitive. It may be that your trim pot is not sitting properly in the gimbal, so pushing the trim lever to minimum trim isn't really setting the pot to minimum , or that end of the pot is now defective or dirty. Too much heat could do it. If it works better with the wires crossed and the DIP at the wrong setting, do it that way. Who cares if the DIP is ON of OFF, as long as it works?