armycopter

What is your throttle adjusted to? Mine is set for linear. I set my pitch and pitch throw so that the aircraft just starts to lift off at 1/2 throttle.

W37 Cepeda

HEy army,

Did you have to reverse the connection
'locations for the HS-55 Servos? I had to with mine.
It's just an observation. When I changed mine..
the remote went into European mode.. Strange..
then I swapped the connector locations on the
reciever.. this fixed the issue.

Did you enconter this?

Oh by the way. im going to replace all the servos.
except the rudder servo, cause thats with the gyro and
its paired..it is so much more responsive.. So much better.

W37 Cepeda

If anyone here has a reciever unit.. identical to the DF37, just the reciever.
please contact me.. I'm looking for just a reciever unit for another project.

Thanks

armycopter

Hey Cepeda-
I'm not sure what you mean by reversing the servo connections, but what I did was
1. Swap all four servo's for HS-55's
2. Adjust my dipswitches AND my gyro reverse function so that they all worked properly. (I can post my dipswitch settings if you want)
3. Test flight

The HS-55 servos all seemed to run in reverse so I had to make some changes. It works like a champ now....

Heliwannabe

I am really new to these helis and I bought this just searching the internet one night so I don't know very much about the others. This is a good machine now but if you get the stock brushed motor and battery its pretty much un-useable. It needs the burshless motor and Lipo battery. I did modify the stock push rod. I shortened it slightly and used a pair of wire cutters to make indentations on the end so the glue would hold. I used JB weld and I can't pull it off. The other end is still adjustable. It worked perfectly on mine.

I wish I could be more help with the other models buy maybe someone else can chime in.

Heliwannabe

Not sure which switch sets linear but here are my settings.
1 on
2 off
3 off
4 off
5 off
6 on
7 0n
8 on
9 on
10 off
11 off
12 off

Mine lifts off just above mide throttle just as the main blades just settle into a nice quite smooth woosh. If I hold it to the bench and max the throttle it's scary. It pulls like heck and makes a lot of air noise. I'm not doing that again. I swear this thing could lift a pound. Sure seem to be working good, maybe I just got lucky with my settings.
Jim

W37 Cepeda

Some msg. me concerning the unit not lifting.

Here are some pointers for both.

Actually the dips really has little to do with linear.

The knobs v1 PIT LIMIT and v2 PIT CURVE will determine that.

Your problem lies with the the angle of attack of the blades.

It seems to me that when you installed the new blades

you might of decreased it.

Know you don't have enough pitch for lift.

You need to adjust it between 4-8 degrees using the PITCH
angle tool provided be Walkera. 5 lesser to 8 aggressive.

If you go to high, you will start to have yaw problems, if you
go to low , your copter will not have lift.

Use the pitch angle tool to adjust the blade pitch, the reference for

zero is your flybar.

The linkage you use to adjust
the tracking ( the bottom linkage), use the TOP linkage to add or retract
pitch angle for the blades.

armycopter

Mine lifts and flies great. I do have the throttle adjusted to linear and my blades are balanced and tracked perfect. Pitch is -2 to 9 in NORMAL mode. lots of power and lots of fun. If I can just keep from crashing it...

ellcheepo

Hi guys, I got my 37 last week and was really pea'd off with it I got it home and charged up the battery and then decided to test all the electronics where working, plugged in the battery and set it down, started to spin up the blades and the head flew to pieces, turns out that one of the pins that hold the two parts for the pitch control parted and that then meant the loose piece broke one of the control rods and then the head. bent the boom as the blade hit the side of it. was well peeved. [:@] any way a bit of glue and time all back together and now I have the issue of tail spin and yaw so might get it to hover at some point in the near future. my point is that it's a good idea to check all parts out before you start to fly.

mcdaniel

HI there
thanks to all for valuable info about this new 37 heli (armycopter, cepeda,heliwannbe), I been check your post everyday for one week.
well, like many people ,I upgrade from df#4 (not so bad) and finaly get into the cp model. so this model do not lift with 100% trotle ,ok is pich level ,but how I can set that about 60 % trotle to get in the air maybe is dip #10? will be started at 0 with v1/v2 and up/ down or olny adjust one v1 you tell me. the unit is all stock. I made blade tracking is ok, lipo will be here in 4 days.
dip #12 all counter cw v1/v2. avcs set to nor,gyro 70%, and rev set, (when avcs is selected at 60% trotle turn like hell (rudder angle?)
thanks if yours could tell me an easy way to set those dip 10,11,12. maybe is less frustrating experience to me.[]
Meatime is time to learn the basic and time to time control this bird.

ps : ARMYCOPTER on friday I will be order this motor and esc same as your I keep in touch[8D]

W37 Cepeda

Forget about the DIPS ok.. They will not do what you want.

DIP 10 is the PIT lock and you should leave the default value (OFF).

WHY? DIP 10 is the memory for the PIT settings. if you set it on,

you are telling the remote control to remember the current settings

until you turn it off and switch it back. This process requires adjustment

as stated in manual..so DONT MESS WITH IT!

You are going to need more than 60% of throttle to lift
the copter of the ground to a hieght were the back draft
of the blades won't effect your hover. 60% of throttle makes for
copter handle very poorly at best.

1st start with V1 and V2 in the center position. Don't mess with
that yet , casue it wont help you. Your flight knowledge with this
unit is poor ...so leave the original setting so that
when you have a problem, you will know that it did not
come from messing around with the settings.

Adjust the blade pitch to a level recommended.
This totally depends on your unit.. On mine I have
it adjusted to 8 degress, and with the stock motor
and lipo battery , half way thru the throttle, my unit begins
to lift.

But then again, to much pitch can cause a yaw problem, (your tail rotating clockwise )
and to much pitch will shorten your fly time, cause air makes more
resistance on the blades..

This is a delicate balance. To little pitch and the copter wont lift or acts sluggish (not very responsive)
and most of all, make sure your main blades are tight. ( you dont want loose main blades( it causes
the unit to wabble in the air)) ( do not over tighten the neither.. just enough for them not to move on its own).

And one more thing.. MAKE SURE YOUR SWASH PLATE IS LEVELED. Beleive me, if your swash plate is not
level, the minute you lift, it will go to into that direction. A Leveled swash plate makes for a perfect vertical
take off. .

Use training gear at all time.

Good luck.

mcdaniel

thanks cepeda
training gear on
all dip with factory set
so now how I setting the pitch, or check the angle of attack and reajusted probable I need more angle because only at 100% trotle the heli elevated 2-3 inch, with stock battery. you thing that when lipo come it wil be better?
this dip #12 I changed both v1/v2 to all counter cw , maybe I should leave like this or wich is factory sett .

armycopter

The lipo will definitely help. However, if you can afford it, I would immediately purchase a brushless motor and esc.

W37 Cepeda

Yes.
The lipo is way better and it will give you longer flight.

The Brushless motor and ESC is even better more and longer flight too.

Currently I use the stock esc and motor with a lipo

battery, but this is because i got defective brusless motor

esc. and I'm waiting on the new replacements.

armycopter

Okay guys, here are the dipswitch settings for an aircraft with all HS-55 servos

1. OFF
2. ON
3. OFF
4. ON
5. OFF
6. OFF
7. OFF
8. ON
9. ON
10. OFF
11. OFF
12. OFF
GYRO set to REV
GYRO set to AVCS (I prefer AVCS, you can use NOR)

I don't know if that helps anyone or not, but maybe in the future...

mcdaniel

hi there ARMYCOPTER
it seen that this ebay site where buy your brushless and esc is not available now , anybody have a place to buy a good combo with great prices on ebay???? motor + Esc

armycopter

You might be able to email that guy. Here is the link to his store...

http://stores.tw.ebay.com/epowerjet

Heliwannabe

Darn I just ordered and received one in three days from that same vendor. The 11.1 lipo will get you a bunch more power but in my case, I soon after fried the stock motor. It would actually smoke after about 3 to 4 minutes. The Brushless motor and ESC (same deal as Army) absoultly cured those problems. It has so much power, smooth quiet and everything just stays cool. I am using a 2200 12c lipo and Army reported having some heat issues with his 1800 10c. I have one on order as a backup and I will post on its performance.

I think Cepeda has good advice and took the time to get everything tweaked just right so his stock setup flies. Mine would not so I may have masked a setup problem with lots of power and battery but I am all smiles right now.

Cepeda were you originally running a brushless motor?

Jim

armycopter

I got in a short flight last night and I have to say that it is flying PERFECT. I am amazed at how stable it is. I flew it outside with no wind. I had it at about a 2 foot hover and it will just sit there in a perfectly smooth, hands off, flight for up to about 10 seconds. No input required. I do notice that when I switch between my two batteries that i have to adjust the trim because they are different weights and do not sit the same in the battery holder. The 12C allows me to set all my trims to neutral. On a side note, I think I figured out why I am seeing a bit more heat on my ESC these days. (It's not hot, but I can tell it's warmer than it used to be). I read somewhere that the number of servo's can have an impact on the ESC. I think because I upgraded to better servo's, they may be drawing more amps than the stock walkera setups. I may consider getting another esc at sometime in the future. Maybe a 35A. For now though, I am VERY pleased with the performance. I have found the sweet spot on the Gyro between tail wag and good tail rotor authority.

I just wish we would start seeing some CNC upgrades for this thing! I want a tail and main rotor system!!

W37 Cepeda

Yes,


I'm running the original motor, but with a lipo battery.

My brushless setup is being replaced, it came defective.

One thing many of us fail to see, even though the brushless

system is way better, it's still meant for those who can

fly and not just do some hover. If you are a beginner, I would

wait on the upgrade until you perfected flying.. and not just back

and forth. Hehe.. Brushless systems give so so much power,

you need to be quick and have fast reflexes. It's a sure way

to crash if your not ready.

soneebee

Hello guys I have seem to read this thread from start to end and it seem to be doing very well... i wanted just to know the performance of the DF37 since this i the older brother of the DF60 were he got the configurations..... what type of brushless will you be adding on the heli? will the align motor fit the heli well? I am not sure about the drive system on the 37 but i guess it is almost the same as the 60...

W37 Cepeda

You have to be carefull with ESC. They are delicate electronic devices. That battery you are using
2200ma maybe to much for the ESC.. Think about updrading to a 40A ESC, that can handle more
current more efficiently.

It is recommended for the 30A ESC to use 1800ma or less batteries.. if you are going more than 1800ma you
are running the risk of frying your ESC, model 30. Remember even though it says it can handle 30A, its really
15A. The system is based on a AC current. you must divide by 2 cause to calculate properly the sinewave being
injected into the motor, @ 15A per phase is the correct number. you have 2 phases in the AC current, one high and
the other one low. The 30 ESC is really a 2 phase 15A controller, totalling 30A.

Some might argue that the ESC will only take as much current as it needs.
Though it could be accomplished and true in many cases, but for this one, it is not.
The ESC we use does not have current limiting capabiliies, cause it does not
apply. It's sole purpose is conversion DC-AC, at the maxium amout of current it
can pump out to the motor. Because without power, the motor can not generate
sufficient RPMs to keep the copter aloft.

The most obviouse reason is electronicly. Current limiting circuits require "x" amount of electronic components, mainly transformers
which will make the ESC to heavy and not practicle for hobbie use, not to mention more money too.

armycopter

Both my lipos are 1800 mAh. One is a 10C and the other is a 12C. (I do have a 7.4V 1800mAh but I do not use it on this bird). 25A should be enough, correct?

Heliwannabe

Wow you are right I don't see that combo on ebay any more. Thats a shame, they had great shipping. I would try the email thing.

Army mine too. Just as smooth as can be, I am getting braver all the time. For any one who is a rookie like me keep the training wheels on. It absolutly saved my ship yesterday during a brain fart. I mowed a little lawn with the main rotor but no damage at all. I notice this thing is a lot more stable out side with no wind, or even a little wind, than it is in the garage. I think it buffets on its own turbulence in the garage.

Yes hope to see some aluminum parts soon. I getting a fair amount of time (5 or 6 hours) on this machine and wonder how long these plastic parts will hold out.

Jim

W37 Cepeda

OK.. Great..

The reason why I mentioned it was because I saw a picture with a 2200ma 12C battery, think it was heliwannabe.
well. sorry for the confusion.