WALKERA 37
08-18-2006, 02:47 AM
#476
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RE: WALKERA 37
Joe, Is that motor a brushless one as it is a make I am not familiar with, if it is then have you had a look to see how many amps you are pulling, if it is a brushless motor then look to see what the specs are for it i.e. how many amps it can handle continues not in burst as if it is 18 and you are pulling 18 then you will right on the limit for that motor. then yes I would come down a gear so that it is pulling less and not being stressed as much
Army, I found that my whole tail rotor assemble could move on the alloy tail boom and that it could twist and slide up and down. I would look to see if yours can. if it can then a bit of clue or a change to the brackets that hold it on works.
All - I found a net trick to stop those tail boom bashies by the main blades, as if it happens it is always the vertical stabilizer that gets it and then the boom so here's my idea on how to reduce that strike.
Get a new horizontal stabilizer and bend it so that it point down at the corners a little heat from a hot water works, just don't burn your selves. so in effect what you have is two horizontal stabilizers on the tail boom both should be bent to make an unhappy face that way if you come down and the rotors try and hit the boom they are helped over it by the stabilizers. I have found it to work well you just need to make sure you bend them so that the blades get redirected over the boom, not enough bend and they will get stuck underneath and then crash boom, head and blades. nice repair bill for parts. and maybe a few harsh words on this forum from someone who tried it and didn't bend it enough.
Army, I found that my whole tail rotor assemble could move on the alloy tail boom and that it could twist and slide up and down. I would look to see if yours can. if it can then a bit of clue or a change to the brackets that hold it on works.
All - I found a net trick to stop those tail boom bashies by the main blades, as if it happens it is always the vertical stabilizer that gets it and then the boom so here's my idea on how to reduce that strike.
Get a new horizontal stabilizer and bend it so that it point down at the corners a little heat from a hot water works, just don't burn your selves. so in effect what you have is two horizontal stabilizers on the tail boom both should be bent to make an unhappy face that way if you come down and the rotors try and hit the boom they are helped over it by the stabilizers. I have found it to work well you just need to make sure you bend them so that the blades get redirected over the boom, not enough bend and they will get stuck underneath and then crash boom, head and blades. nice repair bill for parts. and maybe a few harsh words on this forum from someone who tried it and didn't bend it enough.
08-18-2006, 07:20 AM
#477
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RE: WALKERA 37
Well I seemed to have fixed my "creeping" left yaw. I increased the gain by about 15% (just below tail wagging), and lubed the heck out of my tail rotor shaft. I found that the sliding mechanism on the shaft was not moving as easily as it should have. I used some silicone lube and got it sliding nicely. This seemed to have cured my yaw. I can now keep my trim almost centered. Easy fix for a frustrating problem.
I've been practicing "nose-in" hovering quite a bit over the last month or so (since seeing soneebee doing it in his video). Last night I was flying "nose-in" hover for about 15 minutes. When I turned the bird around and tried flying "tail-in" I almost crashed because I was I couldn't fly tail-in anymore!!! It took about 5 minutes to get re-oriented to tail-in hovering.
At least I didn't crash though
I've been practicing "nose-in" hovering quite a bit over the last month or so (since seeing soneebee doing it in his video). Last night I was flying "nose-in" hover for about 15 minutes. When I turned the bird around and tried flying "tail-in" I almost crashed because I was I couldn't fly tail-in anymore!!! It took about 5 minutes to get re-oriented to tail-in hovering.
At least I didn't crash though
08-18-2006, 09:36 AM
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RE: WALKERA 37
A couple of weeks ago, I mention I will do an investigation of the flybar. The issue was, whether it was better on top or the bottom.
Well I have personally tested this matter. Here we GO!
Test units:
My Personal: TREXKERA 37 "Walkera dragonfly 37 with a heap of Align parts that are for the TREX"
My Friends': Brand spanking new! Walkera DragonFly 60 Metal with all the metal upgrade, rotor, tail section EVERYTHING.
Test setup:
Dragonfly 60 ESKY Brushless 2550 motor and Align 35A ESC controller.
Dragonfly 37, Align 430L 3550 motor, Align 35A ESC controller.
Both units with the exact same 1800MA lipo battery.
15 minutes of hover fly time.
A word on the DF60 V7, Metal.
The DF60 Ver.C metal, purchased on Ebay from a seller in California. Outta of the box, it feels and looks very aggresive.
Entire Rotor system and rudder mecanism made from aluminum. Also to mention the frame is also aluminum. The unit looks very sleek. And beleive it or not, it weighs less than the DF37. The metal upgrade system, has the Flybay located under the blades. Pretty much the same as some of the ones shown on the DF60 thread. They call this the "Floating Flybar Design". Ver.C (probably a name given by the seller) of the DF60, ofcourse has the metal upgrades and a 7 channel PCM remote control, plus the Walkera G007 Gyro, AVCS, DS) digital servo (compensation control, sensitivity control) which can also be regulated on the trasnmitter. Walkera calls this (double regulation).
The most intresting thing I have noticed, is a Helial pinion gear on the motor. The gear looks like a mini tornado. The teeth on the main gear are slanted. The idea behind this, to establish more stabilization. This is an advantage, but then again it could be drawback. We had to remove the original pinion gear from the stock motor, and install it on the ESKY motor, cause the diameter of an Align motor are to wide and does not fit. Removal of the gear was combersome, we had to heat it up with a mini torch and remove it with a Elite Pinion Gear Removal kit. Then we used a rubber mallet to get the helial pinion gear on the new motor. We went thru all this work, cause the local hobby shop did not have helial pinions, so you might have trouble finding them too.
On to the tests: Preflight check, adjusted all links, trims, adjusted pitch, test performed at a local indoor community gym. Temperture around 75f.
15 minutes hover: Flybar over the top of rotors blades VS Flybar under the rotor blades.
The DF 37, uses a zshape holder for the flybay system, hence it does not fly freely from side to side, you only have up and down movement, pretty much like a seesaw. Hovering was precise. Both pilots, performend a 3 minute hover at aprox. 10 feet from the ground, very little input need to keep the helicopter in a reasonble space of travel, but not to exceed two feet from the center marker we taped on the floor. It was very stable. hardly no floating around. The let free test "lasted aprox 2.5 seconds". Let Free is when you release your fingers from the transitter controlls ( to study what happens to the helicopter at a specific amount of time, before it needs course correction) and avoid crashing. The Df37 lasted 2.5 seconds before it got into trouble of drifting out of control.
The Df60, uses a ball sphere located under the main rotors, inside the rotor head. The blades on the Df60 are shorter then the Df37, but of a higher quality. I mention this cause we believe this one factor, plus the fact the DF60 is lighter with lots more power. The hover expeirience was not the same. Both Pilots experieced trouble establishing a perfect still hovers. Constant adjustment had to be performed. We stopped the tests, and evaluated the DF60 and double checked the linkages to see why it was performing this way. We made minor adjustements, we finaly got it to hover perfectly still. At this point still both pilots could not keep the unit in a perfect hover, though it did hover we could not perform a LET FREE test due to fact it goes immedialty out of control.
I could not for certian say at this point that the Flybar with the Zshape holder over the blades is better than the Flybar (floating design) under the blades. Something was defenitely going on with the DF60. At the end of the day, we played so much with the DF60, that you start to control it
better and better, I really like the DF60 design, thought the battery placement is not the best, and metal holder tends to bend easily. Without
notice we realized that hover was actually going better, and more controllable. A quick switch to my Df37 clearly showed that hovering al least
on my unit required less intervention. Only time will tell. I have the DF60 for an entire week. I will post more findings.
W37
Well I have personally tested this matter. Here we GO!
Test units:
My Personal: TREXKERA 37 "Walkera dragonfly 37 with a heap of Align parts that are for the TREX"
My Friends': Brand spanking new! Walkera DragonFly 60 Metal with all the metal upgrade, rotor, tail section EVERYTHING.
Test setup:
Dragonfly 60 ESKY Brushless 2550 motor and Align 35A ESC controller.
Dragonfly 37, Align 430L 3550 motor, Align 35A ESC controller.
Both units with the exact same 1800MA lipo battery.
15 minutes of hover fly time.
A word on the DF60 V7, Metal.
The DF60 Ver.C metal, purchased on Ebay from a seller in California. Outta of the box, it feels and looks very aggresive.
Entire Rotor system and rudder mecanism made from aluminum. Also to mention the frame is also aluminum. The unit looks very sleek. And beleive it or not, it weighs less than the DF37. The metal upgrade system, has the Flybay located under the blades. Pretty much the same as some of the ones shown on the DF60 thread. They call this the "Floating Flybar Design". Ver.C (probably a name given by the seller) of the DF60, ofcourse has the metal upgrades and a 7 channel PCM remote control, plus the Walkera G007 Gyro, AVCS, DS) digital servo (compensation control, sensitivity control) which can also be regulated on the trasnmitter. Walkera calls this (double regulation).
The most intresting thing I have noticed, is a Helial pinion gear on the motor. The gear looks like a mini tornado. The teeth on the main gear are slanted. The idea behind this, to establish more stabilization. This is an advantage, but then again it could be drawback. We had to remove the original pinion gear from the stock motor, and install it on the ESKY motor, cause the diameter of an Align motor are to wide and does not fit. Removal of the gear was combersome, we had to heat it up with a mini torch and remove it with a Elite Pinion Gear Removal kit. Then we used a rubber mallet to get the helial pinion gear on the new motor. We went thru all this work, cause the local hobby shop did not have helial pinions, so you might have trouble finding them too.
On to the tests: Preflight check, adjusted all links, trims, adjusted pitch, test performed at a local indoor community gym. Temperture around 75f.
15 minutes hover: Flybar over the top of rotors blades VS Flybar under the rotor blades.
The DF 37, uses a zshape holder for the flybay system, hence it does not fly freely from side to side, you only have up and down movement, pretty much like a seesaw. Hovering was precise. Both pilots, performend a 3 minute hover at aprox. 10 feet from the ground, very little input need to keep the helicopter in a reasonble space of travel, but not to exceed two feet from the center marker we taped on the floor. It was very stable. hardly no floating around. The let free test "lasted aprox 2.5 seconds". Let Free is when you release your fingers from the transitter controlls ( to study what happens to the helicopter at a specific amount of time, before it needs course correction) and avoid crashing. The Df37 lasted 2.5 seconds before it got into trouble of drifting out of control.
The Df60, uses a ball sphere located under the main rotors, inside the rotor head. The blades on the Df60 are shorter then the Df37, but of a higher quality. I mention this cause we believe this one factor, plus the fact the DF60 is lighter with lots more power. The hover expeirience was not the same. Both Pilots experieced trouble establishing a perfect still hovers. Constant adjustment had to be performed. We stopped the tests, and evaluated the DF60 and double checked the linkages to see why it was performing this way. We made minor adjustements, we finaly got it to hover perfectly still. At this point still both pilots could not keep the unit in a perfect hover, though it did hover we could not perform a LET FREE test due to fact it goes immedialty out of control.
I could not for certian say at this point that the Flybar with the Zshape holder over the blades is better than the Flybar (floating design) under the blades. Something was defenitely going on with the DF60. At the end of the day, we played so much with the DF60, that you start to control it
better and better, I really like the DF60 design, thought the battery placement is not the best, and metal holder tends to bend easily. Without
notice we realized that hover was actually going better, and more controllable. A quick switch to my Df37 clearly showed that hovering al least
on my unit required less intervention. Only time will tell. I have the DF60 for an entire week. I will post more findings.
W37
08-18-2006, 10:18 AM
#479
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RE: WALKERA 37
W37, i got the same head for my 37 but didn't put it on as it ment playing with the servo links and puting on a new main shaft which it came with as well, but what I did do was use the CNC swash plate from that head on my 37 and it made a diffrence in control and stability
08-19-2006, 08:16 AM
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RE: WALKERA 37
hey army i see that you hve been doing a lot of practice lately.. thats nice that you got the nose hovering thats the last trick on the book.. then you can do more figure 8's ..... hope everything works out great,
hey cepeda, nice going with your rightup on the head. it does work great been doing test on it and the moving flybar design it does give better CCPM interaction than the other heads i have tested. I think i have posted it before on one of the threads...
[link]http://tee.homanga.net/forum/index.php?topic=54.120[/link]
keep it up !!!....
hey cepeda, nice going with your rightup on the head. it does work great been doing test on it and the moving flybar design it does give better CCPM interaction than the other heads i have tested. I think i have posted it before on one of the threads...
[link]http://tee.homanga.net/forum/index.php?topic=54.120[/link]
keep it up !!!....
08-19-2006, 08:23 AM
#482
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RE: WALKERA 37
Hello W37, i see you doing testing heli 60C with all metal parts, me have that heli. really good. frame more strong than 60 more
better. head also good. but aways loos screw on the top part. but it is good. hope you not mad anymore me. I not mad at you. I am
sorry about last time. me it here on thread because you talk to me. me love you for that.
better. head also good. but aways loos screw on the top part. but it is good. hope you not mad anymore me. I not mad at you. I am
sorry about last time. me it here on thread because you talk to me. me love you for that.
08-19-2006, 04:36 PM
#483
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RE: WALKERA 37
Align TREX 450Xl Metal head on the Walkera DragonFly 37
HERE IT IS! THE REVIEW ALL HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR!
TREXKERA 37 "Walkera dragonfly 37 with a heap of Align parts that are for the TREX"
At a 1st glance, yes it can be done and you can use your own flybar and weights.
1. You can use your own main shaft! But the head does not fit all the way in. So the solution
is dremel 2mm or so from the top to make head sit in properly.
2. You purchase all the Align upgrade for metal conversion.
Part #: ALNHS1080 ALN METAL ROTOR HOUSING
Part #: ALNHS1065 ALN METAL MAIN ROTOR HOLDER
Part #: ALNHS1056 ALN Metal Washout and Pitch Control Levers
Part #: ALNHS1081 ALN METAL AILERON FLYBAR FRAME
Part #: ALNHS1128 ALN METAL FLYBAR SEESAW HOLDER BLUE
Part #: ALNHS1119 ALN LINKAGE ROD SET/SE,CF
Part #: ALNHS1046 ALN 3K CARB FBR FLYBAR PADDLE (optional)
Part #: ALNHZ027T ALN HARDWARE BAG
Part #: ALNH1139T ALN UPGRADE SET
Part #: ALNHS1061 ALN CCPM Swashplate/V2 or Micro Heli Model Number: MH-TX4120SE Swashplate for the T-Rex 450X
3. Assemble the head configuration 1st , then apply to the main shaft, continue to assemble as required.
4. You may use your own weights (recommended) for steady hovering. or if you purchase the ALNH1139T ALN UPGRADE SET, you get the weights too.
5. Your Pit control will be reversed due to the new mecanical configuration. (-100 will be maximum pitch on V2 pot cpntrol)
6. Fix the blade tracking and apply mecanical pitch. On too test fly, repeat until perfected.
Since I flew my Df37 with the Zshape holder over the main blade configuration the other day with the DF60, I had expected what I got. In no way the configuration
of the flybay under the blades is better. Now I did get it to hover perfectly.. and required very little input, but the flybar over the main blades in my opinion is better.
I just feels like more under control, but this may vary with users and how they fly.
Enjoy. Time to upgrade!
HERE IT IS! THE REVIEW ALL HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR!
TREXKERA 37 "Walkera dragonfly 37 with a heap of Align parts that are for the TREX"
At a 1st glance, yes it can be done and you can use your own flybar and weights.
1. You can use your own main shaft! But the head does not fit all the way in. So the solution
is dremel 2mm or so from the top to make head sit in properly.
2. You purchase all the Align upgrade for metal conversion.
Part #: ALNHS1080 ALN METAL ROTOR HOUSING
Part #: ALNHS1065 ALN METAL MAIN ROTOR HOLDER
Part #: ALNHS1056 ALN Metal Washout and Pitch Control Levers
Part #: ALNHS1081 ALN METAL AILERON FLYBAR FRAME
Part #: ALNHS1128 ALN METAL FLYBAR SEESAW HOLDER BLUE
Part #: ALNHS1119 ALN LINKAGE ROD SET/SE,CF
Part #: ALNHS1046 ALN 3K CARB FBR FLYBAR PADDLE (optional)
Part #: ALNHZ027T ALN HARDWARE BAG
Part #: ALNH1139T ALN UPGRADE SET
Part #: ALNHS1061 ALN CCPM Swashplate/V2 or Micro Heli Model Number: MH-TX4120SE Swashplate for the T-Rex 450X
3. Assemble the head configuration 1st , then apply to the main shaft, continue to assemble as required.
4. You may use your own weights (recommended) for steady hovering. or if you purchase the ALNH1139T ALN UPGRADE SET, you get the weights too.
5. Your Pit control will be reversed due to the new mecanical configuration. (-100 will be maximum pitch on V2 pot cpntrol)
6. Fix the blade tracking and apply mecanical pitch. On too test fly, repeat until perfected.
Since I flew my Df37 with the Zshape holder over the main blade configuration the other day with the DF60, I had expected what I got. In no way the configuration
of the flybay under the blades is better. Now I did get it to hover perfectly.. and required very little input, but the flybar over the main blades in my opinion is better.
I just feels like more under control, but this may vary with users and how they fly.
Enjoy. Time to upgrade!
08-19-2006, 04:50 PM
#484
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RE: WALKERA 37
Looks great W37.
I ended up crashing into a street sign today. [:@] Smashed up both blades, dented my canopy, and broke 3 of the 4 canopy holder extensions off the mainframe. Not sure how I'm going to fix those other than buy a new frame. I don't want to buy a new frame since the frame is still perfect except for being able to hold a canopy to it. I maybe able to figure something out with my dremel and some training gear leg material.
I was flying some nice figure 8's up and down my street when I got too close to a sign. Bounced it off the sign and then 4 feet to the ground. I guess it could have been worse. The main and feathering shafts seem ok and none of the head or tail broke.
I ended up crashing into a street sign today. [:@] Smashed up both blades, dented my canopy, and broke 3 of the 4 canopy holder extensions off the mainframe. Not sure how I'm going to fix those other than buy a new frame. I don't want to buy a new frame since the frame is still perfect except for being able to hold a canopy to it. I maybe able to figure something out with my dremel and some training gear leg material.
I was flying some nice figure 8's up and down my street when I got too close to a sign. Bounced it off the sign and then 4 feet to the ground. I guess it could have been worse. The main and feathering shafts seem ok and none of the head or tail broke.
08-19-2006, 06:10 PM
#485
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RE: WALKERA 37
Dam!
Sorry to hear that.
I only use the two top holders for my canopy. anywayz...
I have left over Df37 head parts. I will sell them cheap.
If you like I can take pictures and send them to you.
privat msg.me if your instrested, or anyone if intrested.
Sorry to hear that.
I only use the two top holders for my canopy. anywayz...
I have left over Df37 head parts. I will sell them cheap.
If you like I can take pictures and send them to you.
privat msg.me if your instrested, or anyone if intrested.
ORIGINAL: armycopter
Looks great W37.
I ended up crashing into a street sign today. [:@] Smashed up both blades, dented my canopy, and broke 3 of the 4 canopy holder extensions off the mainframe. Not sure how I'm going to fix those other than buy a new frame. I don't want to buy a new frame since the frame is still perfect except for being able to hold a canopy to it. I maybe able to figure something out with my dremel and some training gear leg material.
I was flying some nice figure 8's up and down my street when I got too close to a sign. Bounced it off the sign and then 4 feet to the ground. I guess it could have been worse. The main and feathering shafts seem ok and none of the head or tail broke.
Looks great W37.
I ended up crashing into a street sign today. [:@] Smashed up both blades, dented my canopy, and broke 3 of the 4 canopy holder extensions off the mainframe. Not sure how I'm going to fix those other than buy a new frame. I don't want to buy a new frame since the frame is still perfect except for being able to hold a canopy to it. I maybe able to figure something out with my dremel and some training gear leg material.
I was flying some nice figure 8's up and down my street when I got too close to a sign. Bounced it off the sign and then 4 feet to the ground. I guess it could have been worse. The main and feathering shafts seem ok and none of the head or tail broke.
08-19-2006, 10:31 PM
#486
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RE: WALKERA 37
ORIGINAL: W37 Cepeda
Align TREX 450Xl Metal head on the Walkera DragonFly 37
Align TREX 450Xl Metal head on the Walkera DragonFly 37
Good choice you have bought the upgrade parts and assembled yourself. Unlike me, was still grounded with the sellers wrong assembly.
Still waiting for correct washout linkage, rods and linkage head replacements. Frankly not really RTF as screws pop-out with only a few servo movements. Linkages are damn pretty tight. Some even too loose for comfort. Will need to change all these and re set-up the heli.
What's you set-up on the PIT and PLT now?
08-20-2006, 08:12 AM
#487
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RE: WALKERA 37
The head fit perfectly. The only thing I had to do was shim 2,, of material on the original shaft.
PIT Control is reveresed and the PLT is the same, no change from the original setting.
It works really well, I must say the helicopter is very responsive.. It helps get outta of
trouble really quick. I flew it yesterday with my Align 315 blades. It was a delight!
I landed it on my car, my neighbors car, on the roof, I was really fun, lot's of control.
W37
PIT Control is reveresed and the PLT is the same, no change from the original setting.
It works really well, I must say the helicopter is very responsive.. It helps get outta of
trouble really quick. I flew it yesterday with my Align 315 blades. It was a delight!
I landed it on my car, my neighbors car, on the roof, I was really fun, lot's of control.
W37
ORIGINAL: balance_mind
See that you still eventually changed to an Align metal head despite earlier posts it does not fit the #37 original flybar on top configuration.
Good choice you have bought the upgrade parts and assembled yourself. Unlike me, was still grounded with the sellers wrong assembly.
Still waiting for correct washout linkage, rods and linkage head replacements. Frankly not really RTF as screws pop-out with only a few servo movements. Linkages are damn pretty tight. Some even too loose for comfort. Will need to change all these and re set-up the heli.
What's you set-up on the PIT and PLT now?
ORIGINAL: W37 Cepeda
Align TREX 450Xl Metal head on the Walkera DragonFly 37
Align TREX 450Xl Metal head on the Walkera DragonFly 37
Good choice you have bought the upgrade parts and assembled yourself. Unlike me, was still grounded with the sellers wrong assembly.
Still waiting for correct washout linkage, rods and linkage head replacements. Frankly not really RTF as screws pop-out with only a few servo movements. Linkages are damn pretty tight. Some even too loose for comfort. Will need to change all these and re set-up the heli.
What's you set-up on the PIT and PLT now?
08-20-2006, 08:14 AM
#488
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RE: WALKERA 37
I have a grab bag of DF37 parts. That I can't use. Some are new, some are used but in good condition.
Please msg. me if intrested. Paypal only. S/H inlcuded. Will not part out. (to complicated).
Please msg. me if intrested. Paypal only. S/H inlcuded. Will not part out. (to complicated).
08-20-2006, 09:49 AM
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RE: WALKERA 37
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
08-20-2006, 10:55 AM
#491
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RE: WALKERA 37
Ofcourse the Align shafts are stronger. And I really doubt they are made in the same factory. I'm glad your up and flying!
ORIGINAL: armycopter
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
08-20-2006, 02:58 PM
#492
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RE: WALKERA 37
Hi I am new to the forum, also completely new to helicopters. I have been making progress with my 37 until I it trashed itself with its own blades. I was 3 feet off the ground when I make a fast landing to avoid a wall and lawnchairs. When it landed the main blades went into the boom and broke a lot of parts including shattering the frame. My little machine has been reduced to two piles.....SUCKS!
I would say it whacked itself pretty good!
Trash to the left...........................................Sal vage to the right
Parts are on the way from Ehirobo,
I ordered some main blades, tail blades paddles and carbon boom and the metal upgrade rotor and tail for the DF60, I think it head should fit.
I wish I would have found this thread earlier, but have found it very interesting, except for the cheap fungus shoe thing!
I will update when parts arrive.
I would say it whacked itself pretty good!
Trash to the left...........................................Sal vage to the right
Parts are on the way from Ehirobo,
I ordered some main blades, tail blades paddles and carbon boom and the metal upgrade rotor and tail for the DF60, I think it head should fit.
I wish I would have found this thread earlier, but have found it very interesting, except for the cheap fungus shoe thing!
I will update when parts arrive.
08-20-2006, 03:43 PM
#494
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RE: WALKERA 37
Better check your bellcranks, yoru z shape holder...that stuff breaks all the time.
Dam... it crashed bad.!! WOw.
Dam... it crashed bad.!! WOw.
ORIGINAL: Allstar W37
One more pic
One more pic
08-20-2006, 04:07 PM
#495
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RE: WALKERA 37
Yeah the z shape holder is broke, I just replaced it too. A few other parts in the head also. I didnt order them because i am gettin the metal head for the 60 and trying to stick it on there. Do you know how it will fit? I think I like the flybar above the main blades too but never tried it underneath, by the way W37 Cepeda nice job on the Align parts on you copter. I looked up the part numbers and it was just too much $ for me. Maybe the new head will keep the blades farther from the boom to prevent this as this is the second time this has happened. First time not as bad though.
08-20-2006, 11:16 PM
#496
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RE: WALKERA 37
Ouch! Man those main blades must have been cruising when they hit the boom. I did the same but my frame survived and the boom just had a ding. I replaced it anyway. In my case I think completely cutting the power in a panic mode allowed the mains to his the boom. (0 or maybe negative lift in the main blades) Trust me I am a nubie so that just my opinion. Yes it took out several of the head parts as well as the boom support.
Good to hear from you Army. I'm back from my week long CA coast bike trip of 2600+ mi.
Aside from a few bumps this is a great thread. The input from the pioneers, W37, Sonnebee, Army, Balance, Cheepo, Jon and every other post has been a wealth of information.
By the way, where did you guys get your training gear? Im using wooden sticks and ping pong balls which is marginal at best.
Jim
Good to hear from you Army. I'm back from my week long CA coast bike trip of 2600+ mi.
Aside from a few bumps this is a great thread. The input from the pioneers, W37, Sonnebee, Army, Balance, Cheepo, Jon and every other post has been a wealth of information.
By the way, where did you guys get your training gear? Im using wooden sticks and ping pong balls which is marginal at best.
Jim
08-21-2006, 12:05 AM
#497
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RE: WALKERA 37
I luv bike trips. Both paddles and motorised.
I do not have a training gear on my #37 but guess the below DIY should work and cheap.
1. Find one lightweight long metal rod. Should be easily available in hardware shops. And cut them into required lengths to protect the blades span
2. Ping pong balls / practice golf balls (Holes already available)
3. Bottle cap to hold all four rods when they meet (Need to drill the holes for the rod though)
4. Cable ties to hold them together in the bottle cap and onto the skids.
Hope the above meets your requirement.
I do not have a training gear on my #37 but guess the below DIY should work and cheap.
1. Find one lightweight long metal rod. Should be easily available in hardware shops. And cut them into required lengths to protect the blades span
2. Ping pong balls / practice golf balls (Holes already available)
3. Bottle cap to hold all four rods when they meet (Need to drill the holes for the rod though)
4. Cable ties to hold them together in the bottle cap and onto the skids.
Hope the above meets your requirement.
08-21-2006, 01:15 AM
#498
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RE: WALKERA 37
Allstar W37, how do yo find the brushless motor? i see that you got the ELF hobby system? I need to get info on most of the fliers to finish the reviews on it, So far I had some good results on this motor and benchtest seem to have good results too.. have you stretched the motors capability.. it does have a lot of amp draw and is not that competitive in 3D but can withstand the pressure and torque requirement....
08-21-2006, 05:51 AM
#499
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RE: WALKERA 37
Yeah they make shaft on one factory, but ofcourse each subcon company they make have specifications to follow. you know, like If one
company wants his part color black, the other white, they do what customer likes. its more like Align set standard for shaft to be harder
than what walkera set on part. I understand you say they are different, yes they different in way the process materials and make that
is why align parts also more cost $$$$, see you think me joking that it made on subcon plant. You not think that it made on different
specification depending on customer requirement.
I dont know wny you think of it on other way, I china you can get a part that you like for different price depending on quality of make. I
can get NGK sparkplug copies very cheap but only work few miles. I can get also almost as good as original but cost is almost as price
of orginal part just lower by little, but it last long as original part too. That is why they have all make in china, they can copy things ar
fraction of cost but quality suffers but you can get good parts too as long as you pay more.
hope you guys understand me chinese people do business.
you want good quality, you give good money. you cheap me give you part cheap but no good quality.
it works that way in china, so in HK we sell same thing. you get cheap toy for cheap price you get cheap quality.
Align here in HK has good quality and reputation, but cost is too high. very hard to buy lack of dealers cause price to high,
and align focus on western market.
You western people like cheap products with high quality, we here like many quantity even if o quality cheaper.
we now understand eachother?
thank you for understand my side.
company wants his part color black, the other white, they do what customer likes. its more like Align set standard for shaft to be harder
than what walkera set on part. I understand you say they are different, yes they different in way the process materials and make that
is why align parts also more cost $$$$, see you think me joking that it made on subcon plant. You not think that it made on different
specification depending on customer requirement.
I dont know wny you think of it on other way, I china you can get a part that you like for different price depending on quality of make. I
can get NGK sparkplug copies very cheap but only work few miles. I can get also almost as good as original but cost is almost as price
of orginal part just lower by little, but it last long as original part too. That is why they have all make in china, they can copy things ar
fraction of cost but quality suffers but you can get good parts too as long as you pay more.
hope you guys understand me chinese people do business.
you want good quality, you give good money. you cheap me give you part cheap but no good quality.
it works that way in china, so in HK we sell same thing. you get cheap toy for cheap price you get cheap quality.
Align here in HK has good quality and reputation, but cost is too high. very hard to buy lack of dealers cause price to high,
and align focus on western market.
You western people like cheap products with high quality, we here like many quantity even if o quality cheaper.
we now understand eachother?
thank you for understand my side.
ORIGINAL: armycopter
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
08-21-2006, 05:59 AM
#500
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RE: WALKERA 37
You 37 not believe. you ask you friend from taiwan she tell you, you ask if china makes parts in factory in subcon?. this is why chinese
grow fast, you western company do a lot of business in china. and you think its not good part. but you buy all part china. Align in taiwan
also chinese people there. Please dont think of china made items bad, to think all you have there in USA is made china. china build
for you and make all parts for you, so dont think you more superior than china, even if you in america buy china parts, so dont think
me chinese inferior, me can read in your post what you think, and it shows you like only american people, dont like other breed
specialy chinese, racist!!!
I dont love you anymore!! you racist. Me whiter than you and me have good skin no freckles, clean like porcelain not dirty.
ORIGINAL: W37 Cepeda
Ofcourse the Align shafts are stronger. And I really doubt they are made in the same factory. I'm glad your up and flying!
Ofcourse the Align shafts are stronger. And I really doubt they are made in the same factory. I'm glad your up and flying!
ORIGINAL: armycopter
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
Well the heli is all fixed up. I drilled a hole through the frame where the two upper canopy posts used to be. I then ran a piece of carbon (the stuff our training gear legs are made of) through both holes and glued it in place. It actually makes the frame sturdier than before. Looks great and works perfect. I'm saved from having to replace the main frame (for now, he he he). It's all back together and flying great. I took it outside in between rain showers today and was very pleased. No bent main shaft or feathering shaft. I'm impressed with the Align feathering shafts (thanks W37), they are much sturdier than the Walkera ones. The crash I had yesterday was pretty bad and I've had much less severe crashes which have almost always resulted in a bent feathering shaft (the walkera ones). The Align holds up great.
Could be a coincidence but I think the Align shafts are stronger than the Walkera ones. I know johnchu_hk said they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory but if they are, they're making the Align ones with a different steel. Just my opinion.
