W37 Cepeda

I don't think so.
You come here talking all your crap, now swim in it. Next time do your homework before opening your pie hole.

balance_mind

Thanks for the reply

I can still shorten the links to stop both the swashplate and washout base from touching the other parts. But at full pitch, my cyclic's movements were blocked/limited by the washout linkages. What is the length of your washout linkages?

Another I can think off is to file the rotor head shorter (closer to the hex screw)

rweller

I recently got a 37, and am having trouble with the rudder servo (I was hoping for some advice short of replacing it with the tail servo mount shown in these strings.) When I first attach the battery, the rudder servo centers quickly, but then slowly creeps (ticks) forward so that it is not centered when I am ready for takeoff. Because of this, the heli keeps turning to the right. I adjusted the push rod as far as I could, but even with the control hard to the left I cannot keep the heli straight, let alone turn to the left. I hooked up another servo to the same plug and it acts exactly the same. Then, of course, I had a hard landing and damaged the blades and rotor head, so I'm waiting for parts (the 37 sure can't take a joke - very fragile!) Any advice you can give me would be great.

rweller

rweller

reply to Chrizz - Seems like you had the same problem I am having and I wondered if you solved it. I recently got a 37, and am having trouble with the rudder servo. When I first attach the battery, the rudder servo centers quickly, but then slowly creeps (ticks) forward so that it is not centered when I am ready for takeoff. Because of this, the heli keeps turning to the right. I adjusted the push rod as far as I could, but even with the control hard to the left I cannot keep the heli straight, let alone turn to the left. I hooked up another servo to the same plug and it acts exactly the same. Any advice you can give me would be great.

EL Mecano

I had the same problem. W37 sent me an article that helped me. If your rudder is mecanicly way of alignment, it will not work for you. He said I can post it, since it was a pdf file, I had to break it up. sorry. Change the extension of the last picture to (.txt) if you download it. This is the text file, or just click on it to show on your browser.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I cleaned this up a bit, lets keep the discussion to the subect at hand.

Thanks!
Andy

GMoneyman

elmcano, i'm from woodbridge nj where are you from ? This is great site. I've learned alot about my walkera 37 here. I just recieved mine and the gyro doesnt work, there sending me a new one. So for now I sit and stare at it ! hope to talk with you soon. greg

W37 Cepeda

Hi GUYS. I'm back with a brand new review on a piece of technology from the east.

We all heard and seen BALANCE CHARGERS. Should you get one? Are they really much better?

Well it's open to debate. But I can tell you this. The whole idea of charging each cell on a multi -cell lipo battery,
comonly used with the DF37, is a great advantage. You can rest asure that each cell will get the proper charge and conditioner
at all times, thus extending the life of your battery. And a quick 20 minute charge is not a bad thing.

Here is the SMART PLUS LPC-1080, comonly seen on ebay for around 40.00 bucks. (extremely cheap in comparison with other models)

At first glance, this charger is built pretty good, It has a fan that keeps the electronics cool, and it can charge 2-5 cell lipo batteries. Aluminium case,
A word on Safety: This product is not UL listed, nor CUL (canadian). It has not been tested for safety home or commercial use. It does
not have TUV certification ( a german version of UL but more strict). It has the self compliance CE mark for that matter, but it really means nothing.

All this means, is keep an eye on it. Don't run it close to open flames or combustible liquids.

It's very simple to use. You will need a 12VDC source rate at 3amps or more , up to 8amps.

I like to use my 12volts dc battery from Hobbico. At 7 amps I get a full charge under 25 mintues. With a Radio Shack 3 Amp power supply
you will charge a 11.1V 1800ma battery in 40-45 minutes. If you hook it up to your car battery, you could blow it, make sure your not using
a huge battery before you do. For example Trucks and SUV or any vehilces with 6cly, be very carefull.

You have 5 leds, that indicate how many cells, all red is charging. All green complete charge. 2 blinks consecutive is conditioning, and constant blinking
if you have a bad cell. I give it my approval. Surely beats all other ac-dc chargers. And the for the money, is not bad. Expect 2 weeks for delivery.

W37 Cepeda

W37 Cepeda

Well, I'm ready for my 1st inverted flight. I put on the high performance blades.. and adjusted the throttle curve.
I have been practicing on the simulator..and hopefully I wont crash it.....[:-]

TREXKERA 37 "Walkera dragonfly 37 with a heap of Align parts that are for the TREX"

Here are goodbye pics just in case. Wish me luck.


PS. The DF60 review will be completed soon, My camera is back and I will have all the details soon.

soneebee

Thats a good charger.. they sent me one for test and I had a technical review on that a couple of weeks back.. it does charge good and balances the cells up to about 0.3V difference so not bad for something that cost less than $50. charge cut off is 4.20V/cell and it does have some safety feature.. the only negative i placed on the review is the 1.3A charge rate cannot be changed. good side is no more settings required.. just plug and play.... can use on the field with a field battery.... no problem charging lipos....

soneebee

hey cepeda.. gudluck on your inverted flight.. post some vids.. rarely can you see a walkera heli doing inverted........

balance_mind

W37 Cepeda,

all the best on your inverted flight. If possible, post some pics or video.

BTW, have adjusted the PLT and no more touching on the top and bottom. But the levers still touched the washout leakages a little bit. Not too happy though [:@]

armycopter

Good luck man, you've got bigger cajones than me! Especially with all that "bling" on your bird. I hope everything goes great!

mcdaniel

Good luck, you really needed.

johnchu_hk

I see W37 you have frends now. You not have that before you always fight.

that good you have now people like you.

me hope you like me chinese now. So i see you make flight inverted with the 37 heli

that dangerous better get parts okay to do that. I wish you dragon luck.

so you fly inverted. that stupid to do on walkera heli, it not capable

but if you try you know.

Good luck crap!

W37 Cepeda

Well Thank you very much! ALL.

I did think of something before I take the "plung", to really make sure it can at least fly upside down.

I'm going to hang my helicopter upside down with a wire, right on the center of gravity. Power up, flip the switch.

and test the throttle (which now is a collective control).

This will let me know for sure if my settings are sufficient for negative pitch and produce lift.

Once I see it can lift upside down, then I will proceed from normal flight to an inverted flight.

W37

W37 Cepeda

I waiting on a small metal ruler I can show with the pictures, so that
you may get an accurate measure on the length of my washout linkages.

W37

balance_mind

Thanks. If possible, can you also take the overall head with the ruler beside it? This way, I can used the picture with the ruler to gauge other parts length too.

W37 Cepeda

Ok, Np.

balance_mind

What is your current idle up settings now? Max negative = -11? Servo Expo = linear?

armycopter

Cepeda, be careful not to let the wire get tangled in the tail (or the mains for that matter). I am anxious to see a 37 (or in most of our cases, a T-RexKera 37) fly upside down!

W37 Cepeda

You got it cheif.

I will try though...as soon as it drifts out I will cut the power. I just need to know that it can produce enough lift.

W37

HP03 BlackHawk

W37, do you happen to know what your upgraded heli's weight is now without the battery?

W37 Cepeda

The Verdict is in. Is the DF60 all that? Version C. (this means it was upgraded)

Well a couple of weeks ago I made a test concerning the hover and control on both
a DF60 and a DF37.

This time around I had the DF60 for a while until crashed and rebuilt. The warning that I gave concerning
the helial pinion gear and main gear resounded in my ears. Due to an unfortunate accident, the main gear
was completely torn on a good portion of the teeth on the main gear. So we order replacement parts for the B version
that has the regular straight gear setup. We also upgraded the motor to a 430L Align, with a 11 teeth pinion, installed
Align bump resistant landing gears.

In comparison to the Df37, it looks smaller, the DF37 is taller, but the Df60 is sleeker.. more refined.
The metal head setup on the Df60, is really not very good. I hate to say it, but it lacks many things that
make it a bit crash proof. The linkages are setup by a ball screw setup, all in one. So you don't have seperate
ball piece and a screw. The metal parts are very flimsy, specially the small ones. If your not very carefull, you can
strip the threads very easily. Ours came with striped threads, we had to use thread lockers from Loctite.

Still, the metal head makes for very stable flight and responsiveness. In reality the plastic head was not that bad, with the
exception of it being plastic, it breaks easily..in this case it really has no gain, since this metal head will break easily too. For me
I don't see the purpose of it. On my Df37 the align metal head combo is very strong. That's why I went metal.

The metal body is very sturdy, and can easily be bent back into shape. The battery placement is very combursome, if you install
it on the front, you will bend the lower lower lip.. The best place for a battery is in the chopper. So you must purchase a thin 3 cell lipo
that would fit in the body (shown in a picture below). The weight of this setup is slightly less than my Df37.
Flight time is around 25 minutes with a 2200MA battery.

We also went ahead and installed the rudder on the boom. For this unit you can use the one that comes with it, but if you want to upgrade,
you must use a digital servo that will work with your Gyro. I don't know if any at this time.

Due to the design of the metal head, blade adjustment is a breeze. You simply unitighten a screw next to the blade holder, adjust angle, and
tighten. Done, repeat until perfected. The servos on this unit are not bad. They are made by Walkera, but are vastly superior to the ones I use
to have on the DF37, no need to upgrade those. They are very responsive and you can feel it.

The reciever is the WK-701 (7 channel) PCM. This suppose to be a very good unit. But for some reason, It makes the Df60 glitch so badly, its like
watching Scooby and Shaggy. We had to cut a small portion of the antenna wire, and reposition the ESC. This made the problem go away.

Flying the unit is very nice. Hovering, well... it can be done too, don't get me wrong, but it requires constant input. This is due to the head design, specifily
the flybay. They call it "FLoating Ball or head" something like this..it really does not work very well. The DF37 flybar on top could last minutes hovering, with minimal input on the control. I thought we had alignment issue, but I spend almost 2 weeks, and I could not get it hover better than my DF37, not even close to compare.

So, what do I think? I like it, It has many issues, but they can be resolved. Was it worth the money? Absolutly not. If I would of known all these issues, I would of purchased another Df37 to monkey around or get a TREX450 XL. Align had the helial setup on the Trex600, they discontinued it and went back to the straight setup. It has a reason, so I would stay away from any Df60 with helial pinion setups. The DF60 is an aggresive unit. But it is a shame they put a crappy metal head on it.
I'm sure you can find something better to replace the plastic head. I will search and keep you posted.

soneebee

Cepeda, can you confirm that the motor mount on the DF60C is made up of metal. its the one that holds the top frame for the bottom. it seems that most of the pictures that i see on teh 60B and 60C seems to look like its metal since its silver in color..

thanks....