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W36 eating 180L motors

Old 06-02-2006, 04:16 AM
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Default W36 eating 180L motors

I asked a while back what people were finding different between the 180 and 380 motors. Any way that was because I sheered the shaft on the 180L. I didn’t have a small enough pinion for the 380 so it didn’t stay in long 13T was just too fast for me.
after the second 180L shaft sheered(about 30hrs flight time) I went back to the 380 and 13T then with a bit more experience got it flying real sweet and not over stressing the batteries. It did eventually fry the controller so went back to 180L and a TowerPro controller. About 20hrs later another shaft sheered.
As far as I can tell the stress riser where the shaft has been turned down causes a point for failure. Is any body else getting these problems. I'd expect worn pinions well before sheered motor shafts. My next idea in my new CF frame I am building will be to put a bearing mount to support the top of the pinion though I don’t think this should be necessary.

Cheers
ViciousHeli
Old 06-02-2006, 06:31 AM
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Default RE: W36 eating 180L motors

I never knew that the walkera motor had so much power... or there is a problem with the material used on the shaft... the might be using cheap metal alloys that tend to fracture during stress and heat....
Old 06-02-2006, 10:29 AM
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Default RE: W36 eating 180L motors

I've done sone research on small ele. motors and heres some things that could relate to you prob.
1...Temp. inside the armiture can become very high.If the metal used in the shaft gets to hot the shaft expands and stresses whatever type of barring uses.( i.e. A very tight fit)
If the pitch is to steep and the motor is stressed the internal temp can reach over 300 degress F. At these temps the structer of the metal changes and it becomes more brittle.
2...The stock walkera 380 motor is a bulk urchase. When walkera gets there motors they put a metal band around the motor case with their logo and stuff on it. This coller has a single push crimp at one end. If you take a sharp scrib and pry up this tab the coller slids off the motor and exposes more cooling vents and your motor will indeed run much cooler.( I wish I could find a better way to cool the tail motor, I'm considering boaring some additional holes in the tail motor mount to see if that helps.
Hope some of this was usefull.



Dannoh40 & his fly right boys
Old 06-08-2006, 10:03 AM
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Default RE: W36 eating 180L motors

Thanks for the advice but may there was a bit of a misunderstanding. This is the brushless 180L motor.
My shafts are sheering at the stress riser caused where the shaft ahs been turned down to fit the 10T pinion. The have a square edge there rather then a radiused edge. I'm wondering if maybe I am setting something up wrong like meshing to tight or not tight enough! I've tried both. Was wondering if maybe wear on the pinion gear could also effect it. The pinions show a lot fo wear.
Since then I have made a 10T pinion for the 380L and that runs really cool though has to rev a bit higher since its a 3000 not a 3200. I'll probably go for a 11 or 12.
By the way the stock 380 has the steel band to increase the magnetic flux. Removing it is going to reduce your torque.
Cheers
ViciousHeli
Old 06-08-2006, 10:24 PM
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Default RE: W36 eating 180L motors

Go with any Align 3.14mm shafted brushless motor (e.g. 420BL motor). The Align ESC is also very robust.
I've never heard of poeple breaking an Align shaft. Only that the cap came off - but I think Align has solved that. If not you can do this:



I think walkera has a very long way to go, especially on their electronics.

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