Walkera CB180D - just got it!
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George - I think I'm getting the heli dialed in pretty good but there's a little more work to do before it'll be the way I want it. I've been flying for a while and some things just take getting used to, so you'll get there.
I think this heli is a good platform for zipping around it tighter spaces than the HBFPs need, not they they need that much. Basically, I'd like to get it flying like this video, but in smaller areas. You know, make it a real back yard flier, not just something you can putter around with in your back yard.
(I should shoot a new video. This one is getting worn out
)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3yWXuO4hro[/youtube]
I've also cut the front bar of the battery compartment out. Now I can push the stock battery further ahead for balance, and I also use some 1300mAh packs which need the extra room and help the balance.
I'd go BL in a heartbeat, but I either need a BL motor with a 2mm shaft, or I need to see what the stock pinion size and pitch is. I've been too lazy to check it out. Could be .4 mod, but I'm not sure.
I think this heli is a good platform for zipping around it tighter spaces than the HBFPs need, not they they need that much. Basically, I'd like to get it flying like this video, but in smaller areas. You know, make it a real back yard flier, not just something you can putter around with in your back yard.
(I should shoot a new video. This one is getting worn out

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3yWXuO4hro[/youtube]
I've also cut the front bar of the battery compartment out. Now I can push the stock battery further ahead for balance, and I also use some 1300mAh packs which need the extra room and help the balance.
I'd go BL in a heartbeat, but I either need a BL motor with a 2mm shaft, or I need to see what the stock pinion size and pitch is. I've been too lazy to check it out. Could be .4 mod, but I'm not sure.
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Jeez.. I wish I could fly like that. I am hoping I can get my cb180D to fly like that. Do you think it is possable?
GTX, please keep in contact with on your cb180D/madhawk 300, I would like to follow what mods and things you do to improve it and make it a competitor.
My g/f's family are from Sanford, maybe we get down that way, you and I could possably get together, do some flying/help me out,with setups and some tips. If that sounds like a fun idea to you. Sucks up here not a soul to fly with, kinda boring and hard all by yourself.
I'll pm you my personal e-mail.
ttyl
George
GTX, please keep in contact with on your cb180D/madhawk 300, I would like to follow what mods and things you do to improve it and make it a competitor.

My g/f's family are from Sanford, maybe we get down that way, you and I could possably get together, do some flying/help me out,with setups and some tips. If that sounds like a fun idea to you. Sucks up here not a soul to fly with, kinda boring and hard all by yourself.
I'll pm you my personal e-mail.
ttyl
George
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So GTx,
What have you done to get your CB180/Madhawk dialing in so good? Any tips or tricks? Anthing I should be doing I am not?
Thanks
George
What have you done to get your CB180/Madhawk dialing in so good? Any tips or tricks? Anthing I should be doing I am not?
Thanks
George
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ORIGINAL: GTX SlotCar
The CB180 (actually Madhawk300) is doing OK. I made up my own blades and it flies good with them. The tail problem I had was the motor. I didn't have a backup so I installed a DD, but it's tail heavy. So, I'm using a shorter tail boom and I've removed the wing, struts and tail fin. This heli can certainly be over-flown. Doing forward funnels is OK, but fast reverse funnels can get out of control when you try to slow it down. By moving the flybar links to the outside holes on the BH mixing arms I got pretty good cyclic response, but I may have to shorten the flybar and move to the center arm holes to get rid of some of that ''governor'' effect from the flybar. That should help it recover from fast transitions or rear to forward travel. Or, I could just slow it down - but what's the fun in that ?
It doesn't like to be flown hard like the HoneyBees, but it's getting there. Just needs a bit of work.
The CB180 (actually Madhawk300) is doing OK. I made up my own blades and it flies good with them. The tail problem I had was the motor. I didn't have a backup so I installed a DD, but it's tail heavy. So, I'm using a shorter tail boom and I've removed the wing, struts and tail fin. This heli can certainly be over-flown. Doing forward funnels is OK, but fast reverse funnels can get out of control when you try to slow it down. By moving the flybar links to the outside holes on the BH mixing arms I got pretty good cyclic response, but I may have to shorten the flybar and move to the center arm holes to get rid of some of that ''governor'' effect from the flybar. That should help it recover from fast transitions or rear to forward travel. Or, I could just slow it down - but what's the fun in that ?
It doesn't like to be flown hard like the HoneyBees, but it's getting there. Just needs a bit of work.
There is one more possibility. If you could remove some weight from the flybar that would cut down the authority with which it "governs" . Have you thought about unscrewing the flybar weights and removing them to replace them with [link=http://www.helitek-rc.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=60]adjustable weights[/link] - I'm sure you have some lying around.[sm=72_72.gif] I must stress that I have NOT tried this - as I only have the Walkera radio/not such an accomplished flyer - anyway I haven't seen the need to fly it to its limits yet.......

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
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Hey again all,
I've got a strange problem now. I have been trying out the lower set of blades for the Big Lama (as George suggested - thanks!) and changing them out carelessly - I HAVE LOST/MISPLACED THE BLADE SCREWS. Does anyone know if [link=http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=25_63&products_id=822]THIS[/link] screw set contains them (& the nuts)?
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I just ordered some other parts also.......
I've got a strange problem now. I have been trying out the lower set of blades for the Big Lama (as George suggested - thanks!) and changing them out carelessly - I HAVE LOST/MISPLACED THE BLADE SCREWS. Does anyone know if [link=http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=25_63&products_id=822]THIS[/link] screw set contains them (& the nuts)?
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I just ordered some other parts also.......

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George - I got your email address. Thanks.
I haven't done much more to dial in my MH300 than I've already mentioned. I've made my own blades. Added the DD tail - which I'm going to change to brushless soon. That'll get rid of some of the tail weight. I adjusted the "extent" on the 4in1 to maximum. I moved the flybar links to the outside holes on the BH mixing arms to give it faster response, but I think most people would prefer the middle hole. One thing that made a big difference in stability was adjusting the flybar links to the BH arms so the arms are level.
The pictures below show the adjustments on the BH arms, and a couple of the heli as it looks now.
The video is trying to show how quick the head response is now. At the end I did some small, slow reverse funnels which is a good indication of stability.
While the changes I've made so far do increase the cyclic response, they don't directly change the stability that's built into the design. What I mean is, slowing down the response might make it easier for some people to fly, but it doens't actually make the heli more stable.
I haven't done much more to dial in my MH300 than I've already mentioned. I've made my own blades. Added the DD tail - which I'm going to change to brushless soon. That'll get rid of some of the tail weight. I adjusted the "extent" on the 4in1 to maximum. I moved the flybar links to the outside holes on the BH mixing arms to give it faster response, but I think most people would prefer the middle hole. One thing that made a big difference in stability was adjusting the flybar links to the BH arms so the arms are level.
The pictures below show the adjustments on the BH arms, and a couple of the heli as it looks now.
The video is trying to show how quick the head response is now. At the end I did some small, slow reverse funnels which is a good indication of stability.
While the changes I've made so far do increase the cyclic response, they don't directly change the stability that's built into the design. What I mean is, slowing down the response might make it easier for some people to fly, but it doens't actually make the heli more stable.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4kEKVcznNE[/youtube]
#32
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Peter - yes I've thought about playing with the flybar length and lighter weights. I have plenty of flybar collars that are used on most of the FP helis like the HBFP, and some 300 size CP helis. I've also thought about trying paddles which I THINK could work like a variable weight; having more affect as head speed inceases. I'm not sure if I'd have to cut these weights off or if they'll unscrew. The thing is, so far I haven't done anything to change the stability of the heli, but changing the flybar and/or weights will.
The only time I have trouble is pushing too hard inside, especially reverse funnels. Forward funnels are OK because I have more control and can plan ahead better avoiding the need for sudden excessive inputs. Outside I fly high enough and have enough room so I can basically just let go of the stick and let the heli correct itself.
I'll see where this leads.
The only time I have trouble is pushing too hard inside, especially reverse funnels. Forward funnels are OK because I have more control and can plan ahead better avoiding the need for sudden excessive inputs. Outside I fly high enough and have enough room so I can basically just let go of the stick and let the heli correct itself.
I'll see where this leads.
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Peter - yes I've thought about playing with the flybar length and lighter weights. I have plenty of flybar collars that are used on most of the FP helis like the HBFP, and some 300 size CP helis. I've also thought about trying paddles which I THINK could work like a variable weight; having more affect as head speed inceases. I'm not sure if I'd have to cut these weights off or if they'll unscrew. The thing is, so far I haven't done anything to change the stability of the heli, but changing the flybar and/or weights will.
The only time I have trouble is pushing too hard inside, especially reverse funnels. Forward funnels are OK because I have more control and can plan ahead better avoiding the need for sudden excessive inputs. Outside I fly high enough and have enough room so I can basically just let go of the stick and let the heli correct itself.
I'll see where this leads.
Peter - yes I've thought about playing with the flybar length and lighter weights. I have plenty of flybar collars that are used on most of the FP helis like the HBFP, and some 300 size CP helis. I've also thought about trying paddles which I THINK could work like a variable weight; having more affect as head speed inceases. I'm not sure if I'd have to cut these weights off or if they'll unscrew. The thing is, so far I haven't done anything to change the stability of the heli, but changing the flybar and/or weights will.
The only time I have trouble is pushing too hard inside, especially reverse funnels. Forward funnels are OK because I have more control and can plan ahead better avoiding the need for sudden excessive inputs. Outside I fly high enough and have enough room so I can basically just let go of the stick and let the heli correct itself.
I'll see where this leads.
I'm pretty sure the original flybar weights unscrew. Note the thread on the end of the flybar - [link=http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=25_63&products_id=802]HERE[/link] (click to enlarge). Paddles sounds intriguing also - please keep us informed on whatever you try

Thanks
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
#34
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Well Pgroom, get the screw kit xheli offers (or similar) will give you ever screw/bolt for the heli.
Gary, When you do brushless conversion PLEASE let me know, I would like to do that as well but do not have a clue where to begin, and I have heard it is hard to do on this bird.
Also the fly bar weights do unscrew, they stock ones weigh approximatly 5-5.1 ounces, a lot of people talk aboout swapping them out to the Walkera 5#10 weights, and they will screw right on, and they weigh only something like 3 ounces.
Gary, When you do brushless conversion PLEASE let me know, I would like to do that as well but do not have a clue where to begin, and I have heard it is hard to do on this bird.
Also the fly bar weights do unscrew, they stock ones weigh approximatly 5-5.1 ounces, a lot of people talk aboout swapping them out to the Walkera 5#10 weights, and they will screw right on, and they weigh only something like 3 ounces.
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Well, I just happen to have some 5#10 weights so I'll give it a try.
When I do the BL conversion I'll be using my DX7 and an AR6110 Rx, so I won't be keeping the stock 4in1. The conversion should be pretty easy. I've found a BL motor with a 2mm shaft that should work fine and I can use the stock pinion with it.
[edit] I don't have my calipers here, but the 5#10 flybar seems thinner than the MH300 flybar.
When I do the BL conversion I'll be using my DX7 and an AR6110 Rx, so I won't be keeping the stock 4in1. The conversion should be pretty easy. I've found a BL motor with a 2mm shaft that should work fine and I can use the stock pinion with it.
[edit] I don't have my calipers here, but the 5#10 flybar seems thinner than the MH300 flybar.
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George - I've got lots of gyros. My BL motor came in today. I MIGHT have a chance to try setting it up. I hope one of my BL tail motors will work with it. I've got a couple that should as long as they don't respond too slow. Maybe I'll try the 2 gram outrunner 1st. If it's powerful enough - it'll really lighten the tail end.
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Keep me posted bud, because I would love to do this. anything to make the heli better, and better prepare me to move up to a better heli, I have been eying the blade 400, would be a nice heli, and that will be my way to aquire the DX6i.
I would like my next heli to be a bigger one, more stable, options, etc.. but not need to be a professional with these.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
George
I would like my next heli to be a bigger one, more stable, options, etc.. but not need to be a professional with these.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
George
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Hey guys
Well I putting the cb108d throuhg its paces tonight in the living rm. I noticed (fully charged lipo) that the heli is not accelerating up like it used to. Then got to the point where full throttle it was slowly going up, and gradually got worse. I did not even use the whole flight time/lipo charge.
Is my main motor on the way out?
Damn brushed motors!!
Thanks
George
Well I putting the cb108d throuhg its paces tonight in the living rm. I noticed (fully charged lipo) that the heli is not accelerating up like it used to. Then got to the point where full throttle it was slowly going up, and gradually got worse. I did not even use the whole flight time/lipo charge.
Is my main motor on the way out?
Damn brushed motors!!
Thanks
George
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Well I think maybe the motor was just to hot. I am not sure I'll keep a eye on it.
Hey Gary. I tonight moved the Fly bar links to the middle hole... WHOA seems much more responsive! I was getting "pretty good" but now, I need to get more used to the responsiveness.
Also looking at your pics, I am also trying to get to get the BH arms level, I am trying to get them to be parallel to the head behind the BH arms? This incase will make the fly bar level?
I started twisting stuff, and I do not want to frig stuff up. So a little more help on this would be greatly appriciated. Would like to get this little girl dialed in nicely, and try and make it a contender.
Hey Gary where can a guy get the dd tail setup you are using, along with the little piece witht he ball on it?
Thanks Alot
George
Hey Gary. I tonight moved the Fly bar links to the middle hole... WHOA seems much more responsive! I was getting "pretty good" but now, I need to get more used to the responsiveness.
Also looking at your pics, I am also trying to get to get the BH arms level, I am trying to get them to be parallel to the head behind the BH arms? This incase will make the fly bar level?
I started twisting stuff, and I do not want to frig stuff up. So a little more help on this would be greatly appriciated. Would like to get this little girl dialed in nicely, and try and make it a contender.
Hey Gary where can a guy get the dd tail setup you are using, along with the little piece witht he ball on it?
Thanks Alot
George
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ORIGINAL: gagallagher04401
Well I think maybe the motor was just to hot. I am not sure I'll keep a eye on it.
Hey Gary. I tonight moved the Fly bar links to the middle hole... WHOA seems much more responsive! I was getting ''pretty good'' but now, I need to get more used to the responsiveness.
Also looking at your pics, I am also trying to get to get the BH arms level, I am trying to get them to be parallel to the head behind the BH arms? This incase will make the fly bar level?
I started twisting stuff, and I do not want to frig stuff up. So a little more help on this would be greatly appriciated. Would like to get this little girl dialed in nicely, and try and make it a contender.
Hey Gary where can a guy get the dd tail setup you are using, along with the little piece witht he ball on it?
Thanks Alot
Well I think maybe the motor was just to hot. I am not sure I'll keep a eye on it.
Hey Gary. I tonight moved the Fly bar links to the middle hole... WHOA seems much more responsive! I was getting ''pretty good'' but now, I need to get more used to the responsiveness.
Also looking at your pics, I am also trying to get to get the BH arms level, I am trying to get them to be parallel to the head behind the BH arms? This incase will make the fly bar level?
I started twisting stuff, and I do not want to frig stuff up. So a little more help on this would be greatly appriciated. Would like to get this little girl dialed in nicely, and try and make it a contender.
Hey Gary where can a guy get the dd tail setup you are using, along with the little piece witht he ball on it?
Thanks Alot
Just butting in (as usual

Gary is the president of a really cool company called super-skids dedicated to helicopter fliers!
Take a look at his site [link=http://super-skids.com/]super-skids.com[/link] especially under "parts" - SLG300BK-07 Tail saver bead, black 0.50 ea.
I don't know about the DD tail assy - it might be from [link=http://www.eastcoasthobbies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=170&zenid=f408d0cd57997cd2dcfd06cb41598ab5]Walkera 4G1[/link] - but don't know sorry!
Maybe you could help me out now. I got the Walkera CB180 [link=http://www.xheli.com/50h28-27.html]screw set[/link] in the mail today - could you help me identify the correct screw that holds the blades? Ta very much in advance............

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. You could always go to your local mall and find the craft shop for beads and drill one with a 5/64" (2mm) drill - so the vertical CF knightshead can form a tolerance fit

#42
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Hey Pgroom
Well I had no idea Gary was president, nor did the company reside in Maine! AWESOME! I am hoping next time I am down visiting the inlaws Gary and I can get together, meet him, do some flying, maybe get some hints and tips, that type of stuff is always a plus.
As far as the bolt and nut that holds the blade on... I am not sure how to help you figure it out on here. You do not have one in the blade holder you can compare it to? It is a small phillips head silver bolt, about 1/4" long with a lock nut, so look for that combo and you should be good to go.
Hope that helped some.
Talk to you guys soon
George
Well I had no idea Gary was president, nor did the company reside in Maine! AWESOME! I am hoping next time I am down visiting the inlaws Gary and I can get together, meet him, do some flying, maybe get some hints and tips, that type of stuff is always a plus.
As far as the bolt and nut that holds the blade on... I am not sure how to help you figure it out on here. You do not have one in the blade holder you can compare it to? It is a small phillips head silver bolt, about 1/4" long with a lock nut, so look for that combo and you should be good to go.

Talk to you guys soon
George
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Ok well thinking of getting this heli...is it pretty good out of the box? I have the 5303 and looking to move up. Any other stable helis right out of the box? I had belt cp v2 but too much for my flyin skill..
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Hey macz
I have replied to other posts you have started, Use the search function and search for the CB180D you will find a good amount of info.
yes it is a good heli t learn on, it is not as easy a a co-axial, but not super hard either due to the 45 degree weighted fly bar.
Here I am flying mine like a week after I got it. I was not very good then so you can learn quickly on it, i am much better now. Also get a sim to practice on for muslce memory for the fingers. I have the FMS sim not the best but only 20.00. Can't beat it. It does what it is suppose to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loU9-oYY6_4
I added fast blow fuses
motor heat sinks, main and tail
walkera high performance blades (use "B" blade set from Esky BIG Lama) ( the stock SUCK and brake wicked easy)
I added DD kit, (which is not needed, but get spare tail rotors, stock break easily.)
4 ABOVE THINGS MENTIONED I GOT FROM WWW.RTF-HELI.COM A good guy named Dane.
Also another good spare part is the tail motor/boom holder piece, it only cost $1.95 for one and it can break
Also get a spare hardware set like 4.00 (screw heads can be stripped quite easily)
I have replied to other posts you have started, Use the search function and search for the CB180D you will find a good amount of info.
yes it is a good heli t learn on, it is not as easy a a co-axial, but not super hard either due to the 45 degree weighted fly bar.
Here I am flying mine like a week after I got it. I was not very good then so you can learn quickly on it, i am much better now. Also get a sim to practice on for muslce memory for the fingers. I have the FMS sim not the best but only 20.00. Can't beat it. It does what it is suppose to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loU9-oYY6_4
I added fast blow fuses
motor heat sinks, main and tail
walkera high performance blades (use "B" blade set from Esky BIG Lama) ( the stock SUCK and brake wicked easy)
I added DD kit, (which is not needed, but get spare tail rotors, stock break easily.)
4 ABOVE THINGS MENTIONED I GOT FROM WWW.RTF-HELI.COM A good guy named Dane.
Also another good spare part is the tail motor/boom holder piece, it only cost $1.95 for one and it can break
Also get a spare hardware set like 4.00 (screw heads can be stripped quite easily)
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Thx what are your thoughts on the creata? I mean it has all the upgrades plus looks super stable...I know $300 but by the time I upgrade the 180d I'm around that price...
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I think it might be a little over my head with the creata...I probably get the 180d and then keep moving up but thx for the info...Still learning how to fly....
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well I know nothing about the creata. But I know it would be much harder to fly then the CB180D.
Put it this way I got the heli for 130.00 shipped to my door
all my hopups for like 50.00-60.00
I am not putting any more money into it but what I need to, motors, blades, etc.. Will save for my next heli.
RTF-heli also sells good batteries for the heli and cheap at only 10.00
Thanks
George
Put it this way I got the heli for 130.00 shipped to my door
all my hopups for like 50.00-60.00
I am not putting any more money into it but what I need to, motors, blades, etc.. Will save for my next heli.
RTF-heli also sells good batteries for the heli and cheap at only 10.00
Thanks
George
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Xheli I believe. But could have gone up some by now, can't remember. The goal is to buy it from somewhere in the USA so shipping will be less.
Go with he madhawk 300, exact same but different canopy, and a little cheaper.
Go with he madhawk 300, exact same but different canopy, and a little cheaper.