pgroom_68

Hey all. I've been flying helis for a couple of years now - mostly the Esky Honeybee FPv2, Esky coaxials (such as Lama3, Lama4 & Big Lamas). I got bitten by the Walkera bug back in 2006 - even tried my hand at hovering Walkera #4s - and a short time with #36s. Now that you know a bit of my history, I have an observation & a question for you guys (and any girls of course!)

As the title of this thread says, I got given a CB180D for Christmas. My first impressions were: Wow[X(] I had it hovering out of the box (just charged up then installed the lipo) in my loungeroom - nearly as stable as my coax! 10 minutes of mild hover (no room to do anything else)

Now the questions:
Are all Walkeras this well made now?
Has anyone upgraded the main motor to an [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80_204_234&products_id=2138&zenid=5da206ccf7a0790efdbd8e861c7c3289]Extreme 380[/link]? They seem to be the same physical size and have a similar sized shaft - so why not?
Is there a Direct Drive tail pack available? A link would be great! This seems like it would be a weak point although it is to early to tell.

Happy flying all.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I also own another helicopter model - an Aztec,

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Hey bud

i to got this bird for X-mas, I love it too, a nice looking heli. I am not a beginner, but just above co-axial LOL But I am learning well.

As far as the main motor I do not know, but a DD for the tail YES! Mine will be here tomorrow.
Also becareful supposedly 60-100ft is max for distance before glithcing, and crash happens, I have not had a chance to check my range.

Am I allowed to post links? I not sure if it is allowed, if it needs to be removed I will edit the thread and remove it.

This guy has some nice mods, and parts for the CB180D
Super fast shipping as well.

http://www.rtf-heli.com/WALKERA_CB180D.html

I am having a problem though

just so you know my swash plate is level, (level as I think it can get, its damn close LOL, Iassume it does not have to be dead perfect)

The problem: my heli is pulling to the right, and forward, I have to constantly "steer" it in the other direction to hover an keep it in a general area, the minute I let go of the stick the heli take off in that diagonal, forward-right direction. I adjust my trims to counter act this but have to adjust them FULL. As I said the swah is level, so how is this fixed? I know I am trying to learn but I am thinking this is either good, to make me a better pilot, so when I move to a better heli, it will be even easier. But, Is more of a pain because I do not know what to expect from a good setup, good flying, hovering heli.

Also I know extent is used for servo travel, what is the "sensitive" screw used for on the rx? Should I be playing with it?

So I need some experience step by step help.

Lets keep in touch, see's how we both flying the same bird.

Thanks
George

HansV

The "sensitive" is usually the gyro gain. On some Walkera RX's it could be rudder mix (percentage of throttle mixed into the rudder). It is a little hard to say because Walkera use the pots on the different RX'es for different purpose.

The rotor assembly is designed to make it very stable and therefore have the 45 degree off-set weights instead of a flybar. This means that it is not obvious which links to adjust for trimming it in. In your case you need to shorten the servo rod to the side and extend the rod that is in the front. You can switch on the heli and play with the TX. If you had a 2801 TX you could adjust this via the menus (sub trim). It is not normal that a RTF heli from Walkera is not able to be trimmed out via the TX trims, so check that your center of gravity (CG) is correct.

A good set-up on an FP is that the servo arms are level, the CG is exactly below the rotor shaft and that there are no vibrations. CP helis is a completely different ball game. If you center the trim and adjust the servo links you should be fine.

Hope it helps,
Hans.

pgroom_68

Hey George,

Thanks for the link - I'm positive that you are allowed - but links to either other forums or url's to other fliers websites are not as far as I know Because I own so many Esky birds I am always dropping in links to Esky online stores for the newbies In fact, I did have RTF-heli bookmarked - but for the Esky Honeybee FPv2 area[sm=49_49.gif]

I will add a pic of the Tx that came with my CB180D. Its a nice package indeed - dare I say it - better than the average Esky!

Hans' posted the answer to your prob so I wont repeat it - but if you are still having troubles, feel free to re-post.......

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Thanks also for the tip on range - wouldn't want to fly it any further - couldn't see it!
P.P.S. I am presently trying to mount one of [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160380851899&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT]THESE[/link] Key Fob Cameras - I bought two from the same seller. They record video & sound brilliantly and are small & light (enough to use the other one on the brim of my hat!)[sm=wink_smile.gif]

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Hey

My radio does not hvae the LCD screen, like yours. thats fine to me. Still having a hard time understanding what to adjust to get better flight, not so good yet with what is what totally.

Pics if anyone had them would be a absolute gift HINT HINT

Thanks
George

HansV

Hello Peter

Walkera heli's have improved quite a lot except for the brushed motors. They really tend to burn out fast. Otherwise there are usually very few problems with them and the price seems to be OK.

For the range problem, it might be realated to the output power. Most of the Walkera TX'es have only 10mW output power, but the new 2801 has 100mW output which should improve the range problem. The 2801 TX'es have a low power test mode where you can check the range, but I havn't seen that on your 2602 TX.

Regards,
Hans.

HansV

What are the problems you are seeing? The only real thing you can adjust on an FP heli is the tail, so if it is stable you should be good. I have a CB100 with the same rotor head and it is extremely stable in hover. The rotor head is self stabilizing. This also makes it really bad in forward flight and maneuvers compared to an FP with a flybar or a CP heli. It is really a trade off: Stability vs. maneuverability.

Regards,
Hans.

pgroom_68

Hey again Hans,

I intend to run my Walkera motors until they are dead - then change out the main (as an experiment) for an [link=https://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?products_id=695]Xtreme 380 modified brushed[/link] and the tail to a [link=http://www.rtf-heli.com/WALKERA_CB180D.html]Direct Drive Carbon Brushed Motor Kit[/link] (scroll down 2/5 of the way) - in fact I have both here now ready to go!

These motors (although brushed) will keep me in the air a lot longer & were cheaper for me than going BL.......

The range shoudn't be an issue for me 'cause I will keep the bird well within my sight.
This 2802 Tx has the visual feedback quickly from the LCD display including the voltage of its internal AA batteries (in the pic above it says 11.6v)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again George,

Are you still having troubles? I learnt to set up a heli on an Esky - and it is second nature what to do now, but I should be able to walk you through some adjustments if you still need them - OK?

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The sensitive pot on the side of electronics adjusts the gyro gain - doesn't really matter if you play with it a great deal.

trickle007

I been flying coaxs for a little bit now and looking to go to a single blade Fp was thinking of buying the CB180Q its the same thing as the CB180D except it has a scale fuselage. They say its as easy to fly as a coax, is that true? How does it fly outdoors? (cause i dont want an indoor only flyer) just looking to take the next stepfrom a coax but dont want to go straight to a CP (baby steps) thinking this is my next best purchase then. What do you all think?

pgroom_68

Hey T-007,

How much room do you have to fly? Is it windy in your location?
There are two "schools of thought" - one says go from coaxial to FP, then to CP. If you want to do this - that is fine! I own both a Esky HBFPv2 (about the same size as an Esky Big Lama) and one of these smaller Walkera birds that would get blown around in the slightest breeze............[]
The other school says to go from coaxial to CP - I agree with you that is wrong! UNLESS there is a "special" CP designed to be easy for the newbie to transition from coaxial to CP, right?

The [link=http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLH1500]E-flite Blade SR[/link] will be released next month[sm=49_49.gif]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrTjsTAj03U&feature=player_embedded[/youtube]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Well the D version will be ALOT easier to work on, and the cowl for the Q is brittle, and expensive.
It does fly well. right now I am having some problems, but it is nothign that can not be fixed.
I liek this heli alot, I too am a kinda newbie. It is a nice looking heli, alot of metal on it, very strong landing gear. There are also many mods out for it. check out RTF-heli.com I have alot of what he has for it. I added the DD kit, and motor heat sinks to try and extend the life of my motors. I also have the upgrade blades, because the stock shatter like glass, the walkera high performance ones do not. (They are the "B" set for a esky BIG Lama)

First thing I did was turn my extent on my rx up (towards the + side) this gives more servo action, and faster movement & response.

One thing I do not like is the short range approximatley 60-100ft with the heli, and if you go beyond it the heli will start to twitch, and throw a fit and possably fall from the sky. I have yet to test mine out to see how my range is. I guess some people have had better luck then others. This is due to the low power output of the 2.4ghx system used in this heli.

All in all a great little heli, I am sticking with it long enough to fly it in any orientation, and then I am moving on.

My 2 cents

George

GTX SlotCar

Peter - look at about 2:55 in that video. He says you can let go of the stick and it stays pretty much hovering, but the SR actually shoots off to the left.
They've simply tamed the SR's response in the TX they include. There are lots of how-to's on doing this with any computer TX like a DX6i or DX7.
Since it's still a CP heli, the head has tons of parts to break and a feathering shaft to bend, replace and adjust. Repairs won't be fast and cheap like on a FP heli.

pgroom_68

Hey again Gary,

You are the second experienced flier that has posted that the difference is mainly in the dialing up in the Tx[sm=50_50.gif] - I guess you both know what you are talking about

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I'm gonna stick with my Coaxial & FP birds - the HBFPv2 and CB180D then.....

pgroom_68

Hey again George,

Are you sure about that range? I put my heli at one end of the freshly mowed lawns where I work (when noone was about) and walked at least 250ft (it was actually 90 metres = 295.275 590 55 feet when converted) away and I could still just make out the cyclic input movement - but ONLY JUST
But I still stand by my initial thoughts that I wouldn't want to try to fly it this far away from me!

Thanks for the extent on the Rx tip BTW

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

GTX SlotCar

Peter, any idea how long the tail motor lasts in a CB180? I have the madhawk version with about 15 flights. Now after about 10 seconds of flight the tail stops holding. I'm not sure if it's the motor or the 4in1.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Hey PGroom

You may have been able to move the stick around, but did you try to lift the heli off the ground? That is when you will notice the problem (if there is one), The range can very on model, and how fresh you batteries are in your Tx.

GTX Slotcar

Brushed motors are a crap shoot. I have the DD kit on my CB180 and the motor only lasted for only 6-7 flights. You never know with a brushed motor. I added motor heat sinks, and fast blow fuses to the mian, and tail motor, this will help prolong the life, (a little LOL) yah still never really know.

So what is your tail doing in the air, exactly? Have you tried adjusting your "sensitive" on your rx?

Thanks
George

GTX SlotCar

The tail holds for the first few seconds, but when I do a right (CW) piro and release it, it doesn't stop abruptly like it used to. After a few seconds it spins CCW (can't keep up) and I have to hold right rudder. Even then I have to keep adjusting because it won't hold steady. Then even full right rudder won't hold it. When I lower the throttle (because it's spinning CCW) the heli goes into a CW spin again - probably because I'm holding full right rudder.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Well just for the heck of it I would try adjusting your "sensitive" on your Rx, try turning it just a half a turn then try it. If no help go back to where it originallt was and go the other way a half a tunr and try it.

If that does nothing sounds like a wore out Rx.

Which I would not be surprised the electroincs in these heli's are awful. AKA cheap!

A beautifuul heli, and electronics out of a cereal box. Makes no sense.

Thanks
George

GTX SlotCar

George - in the 80's I owned a business call Auto-Chem Dist. and used to go by Millinocket once a month to call on car dealers - up to Caribou.

I've already tried the gyro gain and it made no difference. The problem doesn't feel like a tail motor, but it could be. I've got a DD motor I can try. If it makes a difference I'll install it properly of go with a BL setup. If it doens't make a difference I'll try an Esky 4in1 that I have hanging around. Actually, I think I've still got one left that hacked with an AR6100 Rx. Maybe I'll just go BL all around. The thing is, I want something for this evening when the club flies indoors. We only do it every other week.
Maybe I'll just fly planes outdoors today. It's 26°, but it's sunny and not much wind so it doesn't feel too bad.
I agree about the Walkera electronics. Always been sub-standard compared to others (like Esky) and still are. The helis are good now, though.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

GTX slot car

I never noticed until now, you are in Maine. I am not alone My g/f's family is from Sanford.
Not much up my way, and even less the further north you go LOL.

Jeez checked out your model, you like the honey bee FP huh you have many.
I'll be happy when I can fly nose in lol
How is the ol' CB180 doing?

Take care
George

pgroom_68

Hey again Gary,

Sorry mate wasn't watching this thread much..... I am still flying the original tail with about 20 flights - showing no signs of probs - pity really 'cause I have the DD motor ready to go when it finally dies.
[sm=50_50.gif]Your prob does sound like the motor, or rear gear missing occasionally (but I would assume you could hear if the gear was chipped - so it could be a slipping drive shaft).

The only problem that I have with this bird is blades chipping and falling apart

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Pgroom

easy fix on the blade problem, because they are like glass. Get the Esky BIG Lama blades to use on it, which are called (Walkera high performance rotor blades) you will need the lower blades which are the "B' set.

I got 2 sets for 4.00 shipped on ebay, These are much more flexable, and take much more abuse, I have crashed and the blades are totally fine.

awesome blade for this heli.

George

GTX SlotCar

The CB180 (actually Madhawk300) is doing OK. I made up my own blades and it flies good with them. The tail problem I had was the motor. I didn't have a backup so I installed a DD, but it's tail heavy. So, I'm using a shorter tail boom and I've removed the wing, struts and tail fin. This heli can certainly be over-flown. Doing forward funnels is OK, but fast reverse funnels can get out of control when you try to slow it down. By moving the flybar links to the outside holes on the BH mixing arms I got pretty good cyclic response, but I may have to shorten the flybar and move to the center arm holes to get rid of some of that "governor" effect from the flybar. That should help it recover from fast transitions or rear to forward travel. Or, I could just slow it down - but what's the fun in that ?
It doesn't like to be flown hard like the HoneyBees, but it's getting there. Just needs a bit of work.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

GTX

Mine is tail heavy as well due to the DD setup.

I cut that cross piece out in front of where that battery goes so I could slide the battery further ahead, and I aslo put some wraps around the battery in tape to add some weight, and she balances pretty good now. I wish I could get mine dialed in better, I still can't fly nose in, it is fristrating me. LOL

So is your heli dialed in super good, or are you just way better at flying then me? LOL Your heli is flying so smooth, and not all over the place.

When I fly You would think I was drunk, and spun in circles and got dizzy, then flew the heli LOL

ttyl George