56-jeephead

My Feedback: (11)

I just got a used Tamiya 1/16 Pershing tank. Everything seems to work just fine but I am trying to work out some kinks.
For 1 the gun barrel does not move up/dwn smothly. It does not go the full motion and jumps up/dwn.
2nd the turret seems to skip or get hung up when rotating left and right. I have reworked the wires and get same response. THere are no apparent teeth missing or ground down.
3rd: where can I get a replacement light for the rear brake light? The light I have is broke. It appears to be the kind you would find in an HO scale engine...small glass bulb.

Pershing.Driver

for the turret rotation problem you need to glue the clutch gear and use cable ties around the rotation unit to keep it from flexing

thecommander

I see that James ( a Pershing tank expert I might add ) has given you some sage advice on the rotation issue. Make sure the arm for your elevation is not stripped or cracked. You can glue that slipper clutch too. I weld my slipper gears solid with a soldering iron where necessary. For me it is quicker and much easier with no disassembly or cleaning. A Daryl Turner metal elevation arm may resolve the broken/stirpped arm if that is the issue. Also make sure the black turret ring in one properly and not 180 degrees out. Some building have made this mistake. Check the votage output with a voltmeter for the rear red light and get a "Grain of Wheat" bulb at a RR hobby shop. I look forward to seeing you in a few weeks in LG.

Good luck, Bob

56-jeephead

My Feedback: (11)

LG Winter Carnival? Yes! I am only like 9 miles from there. My back yard,HA!
-Z

ksoc

Here are some photos that I hope help;

The first shows the turret rotation mech. and where to glue the slipper clutch
Some have replaced the gear altogether with a solid blue gear out of a Tamiya gear box - search past posts for details.

The next two relate to the main gun elevation. You can glue the slipper clutch, or do what I did - replace the Tamiya unit with a servo.
The H.E.A.T armor club came up with a guide on how to wire it and keep all the stock Tamiya functions

http://heatarmor.com/joomla/index.ph...d=92&Itemid=29

If you don't want to use the ratcheted stick, I ran across a Camera Position Controller.

http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...b06de869e3f1f2

The main gun will only move when the stick is moved up or down. Letting gun stays where you left it when the stick returns to center.

56-jeephead

My Feedback: (11)

That servo deal looks like a great idea! I saw an adjustable servo delay as well. I wonder how the camera one would be as far a speed. With the servo delay does the barrel return to center? Camera unit might be better option, no? I got my turrent rotation working good, super glue. Reworked my wires inside hull. Popped in a 2200 Lipo accross front of hull and moved RX back. I put in a Lipo cut-off in and ran the charging port and warning light over to the right side hatch so that I do not have to open case every time. I need to get new light kit for front/rear. It was working but the rear bulb was broke and I think the little controller fried when the broken bulb shorted? I know I have 5-6 volts coming off the main board. Also would like to track down some of those "GD" small screws for the side panels. Had an idea for some of the hull accessories, I do not want to glue them on, I picked up some rare earth magnets and glued a couple of big ones to the under side of the hull and placed a smalled one inside the amo cans,gas cans..etc. This way I can move stuff around or take them off as I see fit. Thought it was a cool (Non permanent) idea. Now I need to get a battle unit (Tamiya) installed. Anyone have a good used unit?
Thanks for the help and info I have received so far.
-Z

ksoc

With a servo delay on a sprung stick, the gun will alway return to center. That is why the H.E.A.T. guys used the ratcheted stick. The camera controller, while maybe not 100% authentic, does a nice job of slowing the action down, as well as staying put when you let go of the stick.

To gain some more room inside the Pershing I got rid of the stock Tamiya "Y" connectors and redundant connectors on the electronics side of the plug. Replaced it all with (2) Deans Connects - much smaller and secure. They are visible in my first picture - the Red Connector with the black shrink wrap, under the word CLUTCH. You can see how the MFU and DMD share the one plug, with the battery on the other side.

Good luck with your work

thecommander

Hi Jeephead,

I'll be heading up the Northway on Friday to LG for some snowmobiling. Is the lake frozen over with safe ice yet. I saw a few guys went "sub-mobiling" by Long Island. We just had our NEAD winter battles this past Sunday in the snow. Do you have anything battle ready? I doubt you will find a used TBU, but you never know.... If you want a new Impact TBU I have a spare one so just shoot me a PM. I have been using the Impacts on many of my tanks since they save me about $20 to $30 per tank, plus they fit and function exactly the same.
Here is a link to some of my videos and you can check out the Impact TBU on hermans modified Tiger I video... http://www.youtube.com/user/thecommandernj?feature=mhum

Bob

56-jeephead

My Feedback: (11)

I was thinking about getting rid of those Tamiya connectors. They take up much needed space for sure.

56-jeephead

My Feedback: (11)

Ice still open in spots, not sure where but 3 machines went through the Ice up here as well. Of course there are some guys Ice fishing 20' from open water. HA!
What is the quality of the Impact TBU compared to the Tamiya? My tank isoperational, got a new lighting rig coming from Kathy and I still have to tinker with the elevation movement. I will PM you with my #.
-Dave

thecommander

Hi Dave,
I just sent you a PM. I heard about the 3 that went it by Long Island. I know anther went in on Saturday. I barely went on the lake. I will be up again in February. I find the Impact and Tamiy to be identical except for the Apple /base mount. All else is the same.
Bob