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Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

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Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

Old 06-19-2007, 08:16 AM
  #26  
123Splat
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Default RE: Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

Richard,

Thanks for the reply and info (you needn't reply, unless I've got it wrong somewhere)

1) Motor break-in - so, I should be alright using a bench supply (E set to 3Vdc, I at about 1A?), as long as the motors are unloaded, and the unloaded motor won't go too high rpm's at 3 Volts?
2)Metal gear break-in - I missed that one. I'll look again in the FAQ's.
3)Moving the post - Well, I guess that if it bugs somebody with the power, they will move it.

Thanks again for the help. You do beautiful work. I am especially impressed by your 'snow cammo' white wash.

Splat
Old 06-19-2007, 12:18 PM
  #27  
Richard L.
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Default RE: Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

1) Yes, you should be alright running the motors at 3V.
2) Yep, metal gear break-in is in the FAQ
3) Maybe RCKen can move this thread if he feels like it.

No problem. I'm tempted to do another PzIII in winter camo.
Old 07-05-2007, 05:43 PM
  #28  
123Splat
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Default RE: Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

Alright. Got my Tiger I from Mato (metal gears, got the one with the metal tread upgrade). Broke-in the gearboxes and motors. Replaced the treads (added an extra link on each side so the treads would hang off the drive sprocket, haven't thrown a tread yet), drive sprockets, and idlers with the metal ones. Flipped the mantlet and got the gun re-mounted. Rolled the TC's pistol port 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Pulled the AirSoft warning LED, plugged the hole with body filler, and repositioned the LED to inside the loader's hatch, by the gun switch. Backed the co-axial MG LED deep into the mantlet. Stripping things down and getting ready to paint and such.

Now for some more stupid questions:
1) How do you get the TC's cupola off to correct the angle of the TC hatch?
2) Any thing wrong with repositioning the antenna to the right side if the deck?
3) What are the two brass bushings in the metal track kit for? Mato says no prob if you leave them off...
4) Got this pile of rubber/plastic tread left over from the upgrade. Decided to use some as additional armor. Does anybody know what the heck those numbers on the inside of the rubber treads are?
5) How do you get the road wheels off, or should I just spray the base coat like crazy?
Oops, forgot one,
6) What would you use for mesh over the grates on the rear deck and where do you get it?

Thanks in advance for the help. I can not hope to match the work that I've seen some of you guys do, but darn, this is gettin to be fun!

Splat
Old 07-07-2007, 09:23 AM
  #29  
ozshags
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Default RE: Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

Hi woz my name is shane and i have two tanks looking for the next one would like to get somthing with a bit of transmitter range could you help with what is best to get ?
Old 08-03-2007, 10:49 AM
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123Splat
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Default RE: Another NOOBIE what tank to buy?

Shane,

It's been close to a month and nobody else has responded, so I thought I'd kick in my two bits.
I cann't really help much on what brand or replacement electronics are gonna give you any better range. The HenLong electronics are not well engineered for performance. Seems that the electronics, like most everything else, is engineered to be as cheap as possible and still functional (well to some extent...)
As to xmit/recv range:
1) make sure you have good, strong batteries in the xmitr.
2) make sure that the antenna is fully extended.
3) point the antenna straight up, not at the tank.
4) avoid running the tank, or standing with the xmitr, near any electrical interferance source (power lines (mains feeds), electric motors (pumps, air conditioner compressors, electric fans).
5) keep open line-of-site between xmitr antenna and tank.

6) when making mods to the tank, do not clip the tank's antenna (the bare wire part outside the tank), a longer wire antenna on the tank may provide better range.
7) inside the tank:
a) make sure the black antenna wire is as far away as possible from the electronics and, especially, the motors.
b) Good idea to wrap the inside antenna conector with insulating tape.
c) A good electronics mod is to replace the inside antenna feed ( the black wire with the open silver connector with a length of shielded feed line (miniature RG coaxial, any number will work capacitance is not critical) with the shield grounded at the recvr board only. Need to keep the feed line close to the length of the two part original line.

These are general radio things to cut down on interferance and strengthen the transmitted signal strength, without actually modifying the radio circuits (you get in trouble with the feds doing that). Another thing might be to increase the the xmitr antenna length, but you can also get in to trouble with that one. Do a search on 'transmitter range' and check out some of those threads. One has something about 'adjusting reciever pots'. I would not advocate that, unless you are in the middle of nowhere, never likely to have a mate with an R/C anything over to run at the same time as you run your tank, and you ain't worried about the feds comming around. (most of the immediate above excepted, if youy are a competent radio technition with the right equipment (which you probablly aren't since you asked the question in the first place)).

You might want to open your own thread on the subject (Probablly in the main Tank forum, not the War room). There are some awfull smart and experienced guys out there who could probablly give much better advice than me. You just need to get them on subject (they may not pay much attention to this thread)

Good Luck. Hope this helps some. Just didn't want you to think you were being ignored.
Splat

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