Fixing treads on a Tiger I
 

Does anyone know how to tighten up the tracks on a 1/16 rc Henglong Tiger I? Both of them are loose now and about to fall off

Metal or Nylon tracks?
How loose?
The metal tracks on a Tiger 1 should come off the top of the front sprocket and should just barely touchdown first on the 3rd wheelset behind the sprocket.
Have you thought of removing a tread from each track?
It is very easy and should solve the problem if the tracks really are loose.

I'm not sure but the tracks are wide (winter tracks with metal 'boots' or whatever they're called), not sure, probably metal and they're already about halfway off so it's just a matter of tightening them. But how? I can't take any links out though as there are no pins

If it is a 1/16 Heng Long Tiger 1 then there are track pins holding each tread to the next and that is the same whether they are nylon or metal.
And as to winter tracks the only metal winter tracks I know of are Taigen winter tracks on a 1/16 Taigen Panzer 4.
And even then they have metal pins holding each tread to the next,
Removing a track pin begins by finding out which end of the pin is which because one end is narrower than the other,
Using a nail or similar pointed metal instrument place it against the head of the track pin and using a small hammer give it a tap,
If it starts to come out then keep on until the pin is out if it does not move then try doing the same on the other end of the pin.

There are also after market track tensioners available for the HL Tiger 1. Installing them requires a bit of modeling skills, but nothing too technical. If removing one track link does not fix your problem, then you have that option. Removing one track link is free, so I would try that first.

They are the wide caterpillar tracks and must be nylon, except for the steel pads on each cleat (4 across each one). On the inside of both tracks, there is a more visible 'head'. so I think I'll try taking them off if I have to and hammering a pin or two out that way on the opposite side (outside of the tracks).
But first I would have to take the whole track off in order to do that properly I think, which wouldn't be too difficult at this stage.
First however, I should mention that both tracks came fairly loose in a quick amount of time - the front wheels (sprocket wheel) move or are loose so I might have to go inside to check if I can tighten it but I'm pretty sure that that's where the gears and motors are, if it's like the HL Sherman 7.0 I have. I just have to examine it thoroughly first and find a piece of foam to turn it upside down which of course would make the job easier.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind for the future if necessary

Can you post a picture of the tracks or the tank?

Here's a few pics if that will help. I'm still a newbie to this hobby
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8505370b21.jpg
Rear left Idler wheel

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d0f5c187e9.jpg
inside view of right idler wheel

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fec983dbad.jpg
Front right sprocket wheel

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...dd207b49d7.jpg
Right rear idler wheel view

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ca80a596e7.jpg
Front right sprocket wheel

Hope this helps!

Could you tell me which website sells the metal track tensioners for the HL Tiger I? I think I it would be much easier to tighten up the treads if I installed them and for future adjustments, which I'm sure will come along

Goto
www.henntec.de
This is Guido's site and he is probably the best aftermarket maker of Tank Track adjusters,
Now for the downside,
Guido whose workshop is in Germany suffered business destroying flood damage last year,
Fortunately his Insurance cover kicked in and his workshop will soon be up and running ,
First products should be available by June this year (2022) and he will be fully up and running by July..
He sells Track Tensioners for the ABS/Plastic Heng Long Tiger 1 hull for 35.90 Euros and for the Heng Long Tiger 1 using either the Taigen or Asiatam metal hulls for 38.95 Euros, postage extra of course,
Do not forget when buying from a country which is a member of the EU everything carries 19% VAT (value added tax),
As you are not in a EU country it does not apply to you so I make it a practice to remind the dealer/vendor of that and the 19% saving helps to take care of the postage costs.
I hope that helps.

It'a good that Guidos will be back up and running soon. I checked out the site. Lots of good parts, thankyou. But the parts that I wish to buy are fairly expensive - will have to wait for a couple of months before purchasing items, even without the 19% VAT. No way he's gonna do that to me!
That being said, I now have a newer problem, with questions???
I was having a look at the Tiger I tracks today and broke off the left rear axle Ooohps! The track on that side of the tank are tight again, though well misaligned. On the other side (the right) it is of course still quite loose. I cannot see any track pins. If they are there, they are very small.
So I have a major problem here now with this Tiger I. I think maybe the best solution is to just buy the whole set - metal tracks, metal sprockets, metal idler wheels. And take off the old stock set-up of course to replace it with something more durable.
I can get a small allen key into the heads of the running wheels to take them off, no problem. The front sprocket wheels, well, I don't know how to take them off but I will find a way, same as the rear idler wheels. Both (all four have hubcaps on and I can't remember for the life of me if I glued them on or not)!

Pics of the now low lying Tiger I:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...73e629aae8.jpg
Tiger I in better, and younger days

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fec983dbad.jpg
Front right sprocket wheel

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d0f5c187e9.jpg
inside view of right idler wheel
My 'assistant' photographer scewed up again of course so there is no photo of the small bolt on the inside of the idler wheel. I will probably have to somehow get those hubcaps off!
Any advice on my post?

Since you ask, yes, I do have a bit of advice. Above you say you're still a newbie to the hobby, don't sweat that part, I've been doing this for almost ten years and I still feel like a newbie all the time. Next, check the website for Taigen Tanks and you'll find that Erik has some good how-to videos there for tracks, including a good one on removing pins and taking them apart. Next, it's always good to have matching tracks, sprockets and idlers, but if you're going to spend that much I think I would go ahead and get the Taigen lower hull. It has torsion bar suspension, adjustable track tension and is generally a much better hull than the heng long and you can usually get them for just about 60 to 90 bucks. Taigen is out of stock, but zanda has them here https://www.zandatoys.com/1-16-torro...ension-system/

But be sure to shop around as this may not be the best deal. Zanda is at least $10 more than Taigen, but Taigen is out of stock. I would check ebay, where you should be able to get a better price. But even at the 80 bucks zanda wants this is still one of the best upgrades you can make for your tank. With minor mods the heng long upper hull will mount just fine and then you'll also have a lift off top. For just a few bucks more than the idler adjust kit you can have a whole lower hull with adjustable track tension, torsion bars and metal suspension arms. But if you go his route I think the shoulder wheels would also have to be replaced, but I even have a set of spare plastic shoulder wheels around here somewhere so I could probably help there at no charge except whatever postage is involved. I usually just give parts away but I do ask guys to cover postage, just so you know.

Last, I almost missed this because you posted the thread in the war room. This thread is definitely worthy of the main menu since this is a common topic and this thread will probably be of help to a lot of newer members. But you did get lucky and the two other guys that caught this one are two of our finest modelers. Both Shaun and Paco have loads of experience and they're both good guys that wouldn't ever try to steer you wrong. But you probably would have gotten more response had you posted on the main board instead of in the war room.

I have five Tiger Ones myself and more spare parts than you can shake a very big stick at, so if you need anything send me a PM and we'll see if I can help. That's a good lookin' tank you have there, if I can help you make it better, well, that's the whole point, right? Make our tanks the best that we can, and watch out for those pesky Pershings!! ;)

Well I have another site or two to check out if I can't find what I'm looking for anywhere else, thanks. I think I will just stick to the stock hull for now and get myself new metal tracks, sprockets and idlers wheels for the Tiger 1 but first I have to identify whether or not I have an early, mid or late version. Then I'll go hunting on E-bay and Amazon for them. The old plastic tracks can just be cut off which should make for an easier job of taking off the wheels. I don't think they have pins anyways - if they do, they're sure hard to take out. I did glue the hubcaps on after checking the modeling page so removing them will be a job in itself! I suppose that the plastic tracks stretch alot quicker than the metal ones, at least with them I can take a pin out if I need to in the future. So, that's about it for now. Btw, I couldn't find any videos on Erics site (Taigen) at all. Maybe I have to register, idk.
How can one tell which version of Tiger 1 they have?
Also, I reside in Alberta, Canada eh

The Cupola, The Wheels and the Air Cleaners clearly identify it as a Tiger 1 Early..
As far as I know Heng Long only sell Tiger 1 early's but converting to a Tiger 1 Late is pretty easy and there are many dealers selling aftermarket parts to carry out the task,
There is in the hobby something called a "Tiger 1 MID"!!
It refers to a Tiger 1 that is running on parts from both the early and the late and is a term that is exclusive to us in the hobby, The term was never used by the German armed forces.
AS already mentioned the major identifiers of the Late are the Wheels which are minus tyres, the Cupola which has a side opening hatch on the late model and the Air cleaners which were primarily used in North Africa and consequently are omitted from most late model Tiger 1s, also the Exhaust system markedly changed over the service life of the Tank and headlight numbers and positions would fill a pamphlet all by themselves,:D
Considering how few Tiger 1s were actually built ( Less than 1500) the amount of visible modifications is surprisingly high.

Interesting - so I have a Tiger I by the tail - early version. Now I know. Thanks for the info!

If I can get away with it, I'll take off the running wheels and idler wheel, then put in a metal track adjustor. That would be the cheapest solution - I found them on E-bay, same with idler wheels.
I was on Youtube last night and saw Erics video on how to adjust them as well as Stanleys' from RC Tank Legion so I think I have a concrete solution now and can get started. I'll post the pictures of the process for others to learn from. Thanks again for responding

If it is your intention to move from Tiger 1 early to Tiger 1 late then apart from the new wheels the sprockets and idlers will need to be changed,
Taigen sell a Tiger 1 late Turret which is an easy swap for Heng Longs Tiger 1 early Turret.
It would be cheaper and easier to change the Heng Long Tiger 1 ABS Hull for a metal Taigen Hull which if you shop around will come with metal gearboxes and full metal wheels. sprockets and idlers complete with quick release as well as torsion bar suspension.
Do make sure it is a Tiger 1 late Hull,
A track adjuster is much easier to fit in the Taigen Metal Hull.

I wish I was made out of money!
No, I have a limited budget right now. I am upgrading my Tiger and Sherman to fpv cameras, better speakers and cannon smoke firing systems. And then there's the 2A5 Leopard to deal with along with a JJRC supply truck. So I do have my hands full.
Nope. What. Do you guys work off of comission from Taigen :D I'm just going to try the track tensioners first, then probably idler wheels will be necessary, maybe the sprockets as well. Metal tracks can go on later, when need be
Thanks all the same.

UPDATE:
Last Sunday, a friend was running the Sherman and the track came right off! A pin came out but fortunately we were able to find it in the dirt, incredible I know. Sooo, I had no choice but to fix it. Compared to fixing/tightening the treads on a Tiger, the Sherman is much easier. All metal sprockets, idlers, running wheels, suspension arms and tracks make the job much easier and there's much more room to do it than as opposed to the Tiger's 18 wheels on each side. It comes with the metal track tightener but I had to take out a link all the same which wasn't too difficult. Greased all the bearings while I was at it.
The Tiger however, was a different story. Although it does come with a track tightener (and the tracks are actually metal - they're just painted black and DO have pins) it wasn't an easy job. Didn't know for sure what I was doing but a couple vids on YouTube helped. Too make a long story short, both port and starboard tracks needed a pin taken out in order for them to be tightened adequately. It wasn't a fun job but with some perseverence, I got the job done and hopefully they'll stay tight for awhile, same with the Sherm.
So now it's on to bigger and better things. Upgrading to cannon smoke and fpv's for each, then maybe some cosmetic surgery come this fall in the off-season.

That's what I ended up doing - pounding a bit on the end of linkage pin, then pulling it out with a plier in order to take links out in both the Tiger and Sherman in order to make them tighter. Thanks for the advice it did help