I redid the pull-pull cable in my Wild Hare Edge. Instead of buying another pull-pull kit, I bought some 45 lbs. test braided steel leader material. Is this strong enough?

Multiply the weight of the plane by 10 and figure that's about as much of a load as you are likely to place on the rudder cable and use that for an unofficial and unscientific answer.

So I need a 180 lbs. test cable? The rudder servo only has 333 in. oz. or torque.

I'll be using some 130# test wire leader on my Extra 260's rudder w/ a HS-5955.

I'd probably go with at least 90# test for a 28%.

Other materials I've seen used are kevlar braid and just recently some guy was telling me he is using tennis racket string!

#@&*#@*&^#@*^*@#^#

They is that nifty black kevlar cable that is super strong. Good enough for 35% planes.

That formula kind of sounds like my fishing formula. I multiply the weight of the fish I hope to catch and apply it to the # test I am going to use. Last fishing trip I was catching a lot of channel cat on a fly rod. I tried explaining the concept of wearing out the fish to my little cousin, but that round went to the cat.

Come to think of it, maybe I should use that kevlar cable for fishing

100lb. test should be just fine since that's about what's in all the kits and none have failed to stress yet. I think the 45lb. stuff is cutting things a bit thin, though.

The "times 10" rule is what I usually use if I'm scratch building something and go to the ultra safe side of things. If I'm building a kit or arf I uses what comes with the kit, including the Wild Hares. Never had any problems with using what comes in the kit or matching same. I think the kevlar stuff is massive over kill and costs too much.

The good thing about the Kevlar is that it is lighter, won't stretch and is RF friendly. Sullivan makes a good Kevlar pull- pull kit that sells for about 14.00. I have used it on my last two 40% airplanes with no problems but I did double the strands, no problem as there is plenty in the package. For a smaller airplane there is enough to do at lease 2 airplanes.


Shawn

Yeah, i'm going to head to Hobbytown after work and hopefully pick up a Sullivan kit. If the kevlar rubs against the edges of the exit hole, is that bad or ok? I opened the slot up some more to hopefully do away with that, but it didn't.

Kevlar and rubbing are two words that should not be used together.

Yes, very true. I should have mentioned that I slip on some shrink tube and shrink it down where the Kevlar exits the fuse. No matter what you use when the engine is running the cables are going to contact the fuse. Unless the steel cable or Kevlar has a coating use the heat shrink.


Shawn

So I can just cover it with shrink tubing? I thought about just pulling out the little pieces of antennae tubing and extending them to the fuse exits.

What antennae tubing?[:-]

Well, I went and bought a Sullivan pull-pull kit and replaced the pull-pull system for the last time. I pulled out the small pieces of antennae tubing I had installed for the previous fix and put in some longer ones that extend out of the fuse. I'll order some of these nifty covers to hide the tubing. I like the Sullivan system. I had to buy the 4-40 Eyebolts as the kit came with 2-56, but that's life.

Ben, why did you have to redo the pull-pull to begin with? After you fixed the rubbing on the formers was there other issues?

Yeah, I just used 45 lbs. test braided leader material to replace the cable. Need something much stronger and this Kevlar stuff is 100+ lbs. test.

rcblimp---doesn't kevlar stretch?

What was wrong with the orginal wire?

There is no stretch in the Kevlar. I'm only using Kevlar from now on for pull-pull set ups. I liked setting this up better than the braided steel.

I had to cut the original wire when I modified the plane to run it through the former. I didn't have enough left over to do both sides, so I just figured I could replace it with braided leader material. I can save it and use it for fishing in Minnesota this summer though so it's not a total loss. I'll just make my own leaders.

If you had called me I would have sent you more cable. I have like 6000 feet here.

TF

Eh, it's the story of my life. I'll remember that next time, but chances are i'll just use another one of these Sullivan set ups. I know one is going in the Ultimate.

Uhhh, Ben

I really don't want to be the one to say this, but before you install the rudder servo in the tray, think about checking the balance with the rudder in the middle and the end. Do that before you set the control set up in concrete.

I don't know what you are intending for the engine and batteries, but if I was to do it all over again I would use the Brison, install the 4800 lithion flight battery on the middle tray, install the 2400 lithion battery on a home built tray under the canopy floor (or possibly reverse the two batteries depending on balance) and install a rudder servo in the tail. With a DA it would be slightly different, but not much.

I know one thing's for sure. That Ultimate is all about FUN!

One guy sent me pics of how he got his to balance with the Evolution 58, which is what I will use, and the rudder on pull-pull. So that's what i'm going to do.

Good deal. The 58 would be a bit different.