rctom

A single servo is plenty of power and I doubt you will have trouble with the pushrod if you use the components from our hardware kit. However keep in mind that a single push-pull servo is very hard on the rudder hinges when it is pushing. There is tremendous mechanical advantage putting a lot of stress on the bottom rudder hinges, I strongly prefer two servos because then there is always one pulling to offset that stress. I have not tested a single servo over a long time and I can not predict what might happen.

I've used Y harnesses with no problem on ailerons. You lose the ability to have aileron differential though. You can also use a Y on wo rudder servos if you are careful to get the geometry exactly right so there is no binding. Or use an Equalizer device, or just use a single pull-pull rudder servo which is much simpler. You can move batteries rearward for balance so there's no compelling need to put rudder servo in the rear.

One thing to watch out for on the AR-7000, I took one apart and looked at the power bus. The bus strip on the main servo connector board is adequate, not great but adequate. But the power connection from the battery socket is teeny-tiny. Definitely better to plug into channel 7 than into the batt/bind port.

I modified one AR-7000 by actually soldering the power connection wires on to the power and ground pins of channel 7. This allows a single connection to carry more current than the receiver will actually support. In other words if there were a dead short at one of the servos the receiver power bus would fry before the wiring into the receiver gave up. It also can't come unplugged. You might consider this modification.

Here's another thought. If you are serious about doing giant scale aerobatics, you really ought to have a better radio than a DX6. You will find hundreds of situations where a good 9 channel radio (9c, 9303, etc.) can solve problems. If you think you are going to get one eventually, do it now and get the benefit now. There are a zillion used radios on the market, and the Spektrum modules are dirt cheap. You can convert a 9C or 9303 to 2.4 ghz. for $110 and that includes a new AR-7000 receiver. The module cost is actually only $10.

Also there are a couple excellent new radios coming on the market soon. Airtronics just released their new SD-10G 10 channel 2.4 ghz. FHSS spread spectrum radio. It is priced under $500 including the 10 channel receiver. Also they have a nice 8 channel receiver for only $80. All in all a very nice radio.

Then there is the new Hitec Aurora due in a couple months. It's a 9 channel with a beautiful big touch screen interface and also 2.4 ghz. FHSS. Also well under $500.

TF

TF

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Fair enough, Tom...I'll either go that route, or the Pull Pull route with careful battery placement as you mentioned below.

Good stuff. Thanks.

AR7100, not the 7000. Significant difference in power connection.

I suspect the reality here is that I'll never be "serious" by any real definition of the word. Couldn't, to be shamefully honest, care less about IMAC type flying, and will likely never be anything more than a "decent beginner" at 3D type things. I'm quite certain, in both cases, the limitation is the pilot, not the radio.

Now, I DO have an old 9CAP out in the shop...the issue there is I have a completely irrational (and I readily admit...it's IRRATIONAL...I know this) distrust of modules.

I know, I know...they're fine. They're proven technology, with proven results in the hands of a zillion flyers more talented than me.

Doesn't change the fact that despite all the evidence, I remain...for some inexplicable reason...uncomfortable with them. And let's be honest...whether the fear is justified or not, if you're not comfortable with your radio, you won't enjoy flying.

Thanks for the quick response, Tom.

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

gboulton,
Good luck with your build on this plane. I'm thinking you'll really like it.
The 100CC size plane is my favorite to fly, but it's awkward to get to the field so I fly my 50CC planes more. But I love this planes. I always take the big bird when I've got at least 4 hours or more. That makes the hassle worth it.

I look at a radio different than you do. Because I'm an amature and will never need to fly like QQ...I feel I need all the help I can get. I actually have the 14MZ which is way over the top...but, it's the easiest programing radio I've ever seen. The resolution is 2096 which is 2X faster reaction than what you're flying with, and it will do anything as far as programming. I don't have to worry about Y connectors, match boxes, or anything. Even on 4 aileron wings I program each servo seperately. Very easy to do. Your 9C would do most of that stuff also, except for a few things. I can't recommend the 14MZ to everybody because it's sooooooo expensive, but I do believe you would enjoy the hobby more with a well equipped radio. It just makes life so much easier. And I look at it as in investment in the hobby and my planes, and my enjoyment. I also can change to any channel which is nice, but I suppose the 2.4 is even better because you don't need any channel but so far I've talked myself out of that. But I've never regretted steping up in radios. One of the best things I've done in the hobby. And.......Father's day is coming right up!?!?!?!?

Anyways, don't mean to lecture, sorry. But I do think you'll really love this plane. Mine is a sweetheart. Even though I've only got 6 flights on it, it already is a great flyer. The weather here just stinks. I can't buy a good day. We've had 3.0" of rain in June so far. Our normal rainfall for June is .5" We are WET. I'm tired of it. Even my work suffers because we can't get into the fields to work. Too muddy. And because I can't work I want to fly...and I can't fly because it's raining.

I'll bet that DLE111 is an awesome engine. I've got the DA in mine and I'll bet you get more power than I do. Also, I really am converted to the A123 batteries. I have 4 planes with them in now. I only started using them in March, but I like them so well I've converting everything to them. And the charger is way cool. It tells you exactly how much mA you have used and they are so easy to work with. Very fast to charge, usually less than 10 minutes. I litteraly charge them at the field while I'm putting the plane together. Very nice. And safe I'm told. That's always nice. I simply don't worry about them much, except to make sure they are charged each flying day.

Anyways, have fun and good luck again.
Thanks
Barry

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

Thanks for the input on the radio. I appreciate the insight, and that's a way of looking at things I hadn't considered.

To be honest, I've just never found my DX6i to be lacking...even preferring it to the 9CAP. It's certainly true the 9CAP offered more programming and customization, but from a 4oz foamy to my scratch built 33% Pitts, I've been able to do everything I wanted with the 6, and not once thought "Wow...I'd like this more if the radio did X". In fact, I've even found myself PREFERRING to use things like a Smart-Fly Equalizer or a JR Matchbox for ganging multiple servos, over programming them in the radio. Like so many things in this hobby, both methods work fine, and it's really just a matter of what you prefer to do.

I must admit, I really am looking forward to this bird. The acquisition of a trailer this past winter should will make transport a snap, and EVERY single time I've stepped up to a larger aircraft, it's flown better...I have little doubt I'll have the same experience this time.

On the A123 issue, I must admit...I'm convinced. Seeing pat's setup in the prototype, and Tom's package deal with the charger has sold me. I'm a big fan of KISS, and as Pat said...2 batts, 2 switches, done. It just doesn't get any simpler. And hey...less expensive too. As I said above...I'm certainly willing to spend some money to put quality equipment in this airplane, but if you can save a few hundred on regulators, why not??? So I suspect, barring someone stepping in here and giving me a darn good reason not to, Tom will be getting a bit more of my money in a couple weeks for some A123's and switches.

rctom

The 9C uses a module also for 72 mhz, as does almost every other radio in existence. They all (except for the absolute most bare bones units) use a plug-in module to generate the RF signals, the only difference is where the antenna comes out.

I for one did not like the Spektrum module as originally designed for my 9C because of the hokey antenna mounting and the external wiring which I always worried about. But I have since just eliminated that and use a small screw on antenna that I liberated from an old Wifi router. This way I have no external wiring, I can unscrew the antenna when I pack the Tx into my case, and I can easily switch to 72 mhz. if I want to, which I never do.

I have a Spektrum module for my 12FG also. But the native Futaba FASST module is all self contained like the way I did the Spektrum unit.

It's not so much that a better radio will make you a better pilot, but rather it makes setting up a plane so much easier. You are exactly the kind of person who would benefit from using the 9C, it makes it possible to solve problems electronically that you light otherwise have to solve mechanically.

For example, it's a lot easier to use end point adjustment to get the throttle linkage to go exactly to the ends of travel than it is to have to adjust the geometry of the linkage which can take all day. All you have to do is get it close mechanically, the radio can fine tune it.

There are dozens of places where a decent radio makes life a lot simpler.

TF

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Yep...I DID say it was completely irrational. At least I admit it!

I simply didn't find that to be true when I flew it for 2 years. I genuinely prefer my DX6i to the 9cap.

You say it's easier to use end point than linkage. I absolutely agree...but my handy little DX6i has end point adjustments for every channel. So I'm not seeing that having a "decent radio" is any different there.

Shoot...I can mix/match the elevator servos in there all day long if I want...and the aileron servos...and with the 7ch Rx, still have a spare Aux port for a batt. I'll grant that this now means I'm out of ports for, say, a choke, but a manual choke is quite satisfactory in many cases, and if not, a Y-Harness or fairly inexpensive Equalizer/Matchbox will free up a port for it.

Don't get me wrong...I certainly understand that a whole bunch of options get opened up with a "decent radio"...and I'll certainly acknowledge that the time will probably come that those options and features will justify the expense.

That time just doesn't seem to have arrived yet.

flatspinjim

My Feedback: (3)

A question for Pat or Tom. I'm mounting my engine, went with a DA 100 with stock mufflers. On my Extra I opened up 4 of the bays on the bottom of the fuse for cooling. On the Edge there are 2 bays right behind the landing gear. If I open those up will it be enough?

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Tom,

The instructions say "The wings are retained with two 1/4"-20 screws on each wing through the fuselage side". In the hardware kit, 4 1/4"-20 Nylon screws are supplied in a small bag labeled "Main Wing".

Yet my wings have only one hole (with blind nut) for wing bolts, and the fuse has only one hole per side for wing bolts.

Pretty apparent that this design uses only one wing bolt per wing (which is fine...if I'm concerned, I can think of several easy ways to provide some comfort level), but thought you might wish to address the statement in the manual, and/or in the hardware kit.

rctom

Error made by the dummy (me) who writes the manuals. Sorry.

TF

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

If that's the only error in the manual, you're about eleventy-nine light years ahead of most of 'em, Tom.

Ruski31

If your concerned over only having one wing screw , drill a small hole through the anti-rotation dowel and use a small spring clip thats available at most hardware stores for extra insurance.

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Indeed, Ruski, that was one of the 2-3 different solutions I had considered when I posted above.

Others include, of course, simply creating a new wing mount hole, putting in the blind nut, etc...or, one of the more elegant ones I've heard about, some cup hooks in the wing root, small holes in the fuse sides for them to stick through, and then 4-5 #64 rubber bands stretched between them.

Not really sure I'm all that concerned about it though. Clearly, a few of these things are flying fine with them, and I've never heard anyone suggest Tom puts out inferior aircraft.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I have one screw holding each wing on my Edge. I fly the living sh_t out of it. They work perfectly and do not loosen in even the tiniest amounts.

rctom

The plastic/nylon wing screws have pretty much eliminated the problem of the screws coming loose.

TF

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

I gotta admit...I had one sheer on me 2-3 years ago on an 50cc bird. I suspect to this day, however, that the original failure was not the bolt, but an anti-rotation pin that worked its way out. It was only inserted a short ways into the lite ply root rib, with no backing. Since then, I've checked or modified wings to have a ply doubler behind the pins.

On this one, I was very happy to see the pins all the way into the second rib. Very strong, and certainly eliminates any of those worries. As I said above, I've never heard anyone suggest you put out an inferior aircraft, Tom.

====

In any event, I managed to get the bird up on its feet yesterday. Like Pat, I'm sure those who know me will be shocked to learn that includes the wheel pants. Also got control horns in place, and with a friend's help got the Red Bull graphics laid down. Man of man, this is a GOOD LOOKING bird with all its feathers.

The DLE 111 also arrived yesterday. I'll admit to a bit of trepidation over some of the reported issues, but i think the combination of giving it a good flushing out and knowing I'll have Wildhare's support if something DOES go wrong pretty much takes care of those worries. I also have a gut feeling that some of the folks who've had issues have "rushed" the breakin a bit, so I'll be acting on that belief with this one.

Hopefully, if work allows, I'll get the 111 mounted today.

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

**content moved to previous post**

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Oh, and since I'll be mounting the engine today...

Hey T.O.M? What length standoffs should I buy?

(Sorry, just couldn't resist)

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I wish I could tell you about the standoffs. I have a DL 100 on mine and if the engine lenght is the same with the 111 you could find the lengths I used somewhere in the early pages of this thread. I don't remeber offhand what the lengths were... I didn't buy standoffs but made them out of 3/4" square hardwood stock and center drilled them. They weren't very long...

As for the question about cooling holes using stock mufflers. On mine, and on the big Giles, I simply opened up the raised area under the cowl. I left about 1/4" of the surface surrounding the drop to act as a stiffener and cut it out all the way back to the cowl ring, leaving the same 1/4" "ledge" as a stiffner. I also added a 1"x1" piece of c/f cloth as a wrap between the cowl and the cowl ring to provide additional support for the epoxy holding everything together. Fiberglass works just as good. One at each corner of the cut out, one in the middle of each side of the cowl, and one in the middle at the top.

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

Actually, that's precisely what I did...copied your idea, used 3/4" oak square stock, and then ran ply "bracers" on the top and bottom. Your installation was elegant, clean, simple, and inexpensive...so i stole it.

The question about the length was actually in reference to the fact that at the beginning of that very post, you said:

Wanted to make sure your prediction came true.

==========

BTW, for the record, 1 15/16"

flatspinjim

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks T.O.M. I have already reinforced the cowl ring with fiberglass and epoxy. Did the same on my Extra after it had started to loosen a bit.
I used your method of finding the correct place to mount the engine. I used the dowel and flat piece of ply. Worked GREAT! Came out dead center.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I'd forgotten all about that....

You didn't steal my idea. A thief that steals from a thief is pardoned for a thousand years. Old middle east lie. I stole it from Tom

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

*heh* Fair enough...I'm simply the latest in a long line of thieves...I can live with that.

Speaking of thievery, I must echo Jim...I used that method of locating the motor as well, and it worked wonderfully.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The best part is that you now have an accurate engine template for the next plane and you need never wonder where the firewall center lines are again, or if the wood they are marked on has expanded or contracted since the date of manufacture. Pleased it worked for you guys and even more that you found it useful.

LeeHunt

Hey RCtom
Sounds like it might have to be my next plane. Can I buy one in Australia??????
Lee Hunt

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

For all of us out there (like me) that will never be the next QQ, Hemple, or Hyde. The way I see it, it's all about having fun. If you're in the hobby just trying to be the best of the best and competition is the end all for everything you do...you lost the way and are in it for all the wrong reasons. Doesn't matter what you fly or what you do it with as long as what is used is effective and what you fly makes it as fun as easy as it can be.

Don't ever lose the smile that a good days flying always brings. Having fun is what it's all about. if you're not having fun it's called work and I think we all get enough of that during the work week.