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WildHare R/C Support Disscuss WildHare RC products in this forum. Please note, answers may be provided by Tom Fawcett (owner of WildHare RC) or by the general membership.

New 35% Edge

Old 09-25-2008, 01:33 PM
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Tired Old Man
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Default New 35% Edge

I'm sure there is a 35% Edge thread somewhere in this forum but I was too lazy to go back more than a few pages looking. In any case, I've been sitting on this kit since about April and sort of figured it was time to get started on it. It's one of the 4 prototypes that were parceled out for pre production inspections and possible changes so the colors will likely not be what arrives with the production planes. Work kept me from getting on this sooner but assembly and first flights will follow as time permits and this thread grows. The usual top notch quality and parts fit is evident from the moment you open the box. Carbon fiber wing tubes front and rear will be supporting the wings.

A couple of basic question answers: Length, 93" tip of rudder to face of cowl. W/S: 102.5".

My plans are to use a 100cc twin since I have several not in use at them moment, although an 85cc single would be more than enough for it. That's been proven already. Anybody need a new 3w-106 with the Cactus/Salas performance upgrades? It's one of too many 100's I have laying around.

So I ordered one of Tom's hardware kits since him and I usually use pretty much the same components, along with five of the new Hitec 79 series servos to drive everything. While I was at it I figured it was time to try out the A123 batteries so I also ordered one of Tom's 123 starter kits. Picked up a real sexy tailwheel from J&J and if it works out well I'm going to try and talk Tom into carrying them. Slick stuff, but not cheap.

Pictures below with a 100cc twin in front of the cowl to prove this isn't another of the 28% planes. The pictured engine is likely not what will be used on this plane since Tom has some new twins arriving soon.

Edited for Post Assembly Notes

This is written after the assembly of the kit was completed for those that are looking at this kit as a future addition to their hanger. The fit of all the parts has been excellent and nothing has been the least bit difficult to assemble. The production kits will be even easier and faster since some of the things I had to do on the prototype kit are already completed for the buyer in the production kits. She is truly easy to assemble and it all comes together nicely!

In a way this 35% Edge bears a similiarity to the 41% Giles. Although it will fly very well a bit nose heavy it will fly and land a lot better balanced at a more neutral location. The best way to avoid being nose heavy will be through early planning of component locations prior to the actual assembly. Using a twin will have more nose weight than a single, so a big single may be the preferred powerplant for this baby. My 100 weighs in at 5 lbs. 2 ounces with spark plugs and no muffs or ignition. That's about as light as a 100cc twin gets. With a throttle servo and ignition battery ahead of the tank, and the rudder servo in the tail, mine came in slightly nose heavy. Early component location planning will avoid that. Think about moving items you would normally place forward a little more aft. Knowing this now I would have installed some items a bit more aft in the beginning, saving myself a little time and effort in reloctaing stuff.

Before you start installing components think about what you really need versus what you really like. Do you really need that 2.5 ounce choke servo up front? What about that heavy aluminum spinner? Is there another that would be lighter and still look great? How far back can you install your ignition battery? How far back can you install your flight batteries? Do you really need a pair of 4,000 plus mAh batteries or can you use a pair of 2,500 mAh or so batteries instead? Can you move things back from the firewall or tank compartment to behind the wing tube? These are the things that will make this plane soar above all the rest. Early planning will eliminate the need to cut openings in the covering to re-locate items more aft. Everything can stay in the main radio compartments and make the c/g if you think about locations. It will fly extremely well a little fat or a little nose heavy but obtaining a good weight and slightly neutral c/g will set the stage for absolute excellence of flight. The difference between a having a good time and a "WOW, THAT WAS HOT!!!" kind of thing we might say. If you like flying 3D, you definately want one of these!

Now that you know to plan for more aft component installations, let's get on with the program. If you've got this kit on order just about everything thing you need to know is in here. If it isn't, all it will take is a question to get an answer. Feel free to chime in as you desire, or add experiences and pictures from the assembly of your own kit. Anything I've presented in text or picture throughout this thread is approved for re-use and/or re-print by anyone as long as any excerpts are kept in context.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:20 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Now how about a few pictures of the wings so we can see the overall scheme.

Ed
Old 09-25-2008, 07:55 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Good pictures, I like the little touch of showing dimensions with a tape measure. This will also be my next airplane when Tom gets them in, which I believe he indicated will be next month.

I haven't decided on a engine yet, but am leaning towards DA-85 or new DA-100. The engine decision will be made after the airplane is mostly assembled.

I also would like to see pictures with wings mounted.

Would also like to get your overall impression of the airplane quality.

If you have time I am interested in actual wing area.

Mark
Old 09-25-2008, 07:58 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

I really like the look of this Edge, but why are the WH canopies never painted? I like their designs very much but always find myself asking that question.
If your on here Tom, can you comment on this.
thx
Dave
p.s. No disrespect intended
Old 09-25-2008, 08:11 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

I could add the wings, but none of the surfaces are permanently installed yet. This is one of the original 4 prototypes and as such it does not have a top wing color scheme. They are all white. Tom did not know what the final schemes were going to be when he did the protos so he left the top designs up to those that got them. Give me a bit to get the gear installed before the wing pics if you would. That might be tonight, but it might not since I have to leave town for a few days on family matters. I should already be there now but I needed a couple days at home before dealing with that one.

Tom may have a little something up his sleeve in the engine department when the production container arrives. I won't entirely spill the beans but we were talking about that the other day. He's out of town for a few so perhaps I won't get chastised about letting a rabbit out of the hat quite yet I snuck this one in when he wasn't looking

Quality wise the plane is way up there, even for a prototype. It's on a par at least equal to the 41% Giles, which is to say excellent. Wing tubes are a nice fit all the way around. No special "fitting" needed. The cowl is beautiful, and the fit to the front of the fuselage is nice and tight all the way around. Four 8-32 screws and two tabs align and secure it to the fuse. No bottom hooks on this one but he may have added those to the production planes. It's been sitting in a shed since April with some rather severe temperature extremes and the covering when it came out of the box is what you see in the pictures. I had just removed it shortly before taking the pictures.

One thing I really like is that it's a 540 single canopy. Cleaner lines from my way of thinking. Darn thing centered up pretty good for just sitting on top of the hatch. This one has the owner fixing the canopy to the hatch. The canopy itself is "smoked" when it arrives from the factory. Some of the larger Wild Hare planes are arriving with pre-attached canopies and do have the edges trimmed out but I don't know if the production 35% Edges will be that way or not. Tom will have to respond about that. I will say that installing a W/H canopy is a whole helluva lot easier than doing one on a Comp Arf. I don't ever want to do another one of those....
Old 09-25-2008, 08:26 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Sounds like Tom should have another winner on his hand. As well as this color scheme I believe they are also coming in a RBB (redbull base) scheme.
On his website he has the price at $799 which is extremely competitive price, especially considering Hangar9 raised the price of their giant scale airplanes $200
Old 09-25-2008, 08:32 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

I truly believe that you get much more than you pay for with Wild Hare, which is why I've stayed with them this long. Others charge a lot more but you don't usually obtain the personalized service, quality, or the type of hardware you would normally want. Wild Hare is still the leader that all the others aspire to be, imo.
Old 09-25-2008, 09:31 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge


ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man

I truly believe that you get much more than you pay for with Wild Hare, which is why I've stayed with them this long. Others charge a lot more but you don't usually obtain the personalized service, quality, or the type of hardware you would normally want. Wild Hare is still the leader that all the others aspire to be, imo.

Totally agree...A1+ Service!!!!!!!!!
Old 09-26-2008, 01:01 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

I'll agree some more! I just can't wait to buy this dang house....... then the MRS. will possibly allow me to get my 100cc'er! .....HEARD THAT DZY 100 is a knockout! I'll be in touch with you, Tom for a couple of parts for the 53cc 300 hopefully this net week! Stand up guy to deal with, and plan on making my journey all the way up to 150cc+ with Tom! I just can't wait until he starts offering 50%'ers! I just might be ready when he is!
Old 09-26-2008, 05:09 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

The reason we don't paint the canopies is the paint tends to make the plastic brittle causing cracks.

TF
Old 09-26-2008, 05:58 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Tom


Can we get the Edge in this cover job or what???

any of these left ???? if not when ????
Old 09-26-2008, 08:18 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge


ORIGINAL: damroadhog

Tom


Can we get the Edge in this cover job or what???

any of these left ???? if not when ????

The 35% Edge will be available in 2 schemes. Red bull base is blue on top, gray bottom and yellow cowl and hatch.

The other scheme is taken from the baby Edge, photos below.

We will have plenty of both in about 2 months.

TF

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Old 09-26-2008, 11:11 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Tailwheel and Main Gear

For those that elect not to use the tailwheel that arrives in the box with the plane, several gear manufacturers will work quite well. Since RC Blimp bit the dust I had been looking around for a new tailwheel and two of the higher end products, White Rose and J&J, were at the top of the list. Ohio Superstar tailwheels come in various sizes but are very heavy. Graphtech stuff, though they fit, just don't do anything for me for historical reasons. Tom has a pretty good carbon leaf that's strong enough to do the job. With his you simply adapt parts from the stock tailwheel to the leaf and install.

Due to size and appearance I went with the new J&J Tailwheels design which, although not inexpensive, looks real good, is sized just about perfect, and looks like it will hold up for a very long time. It's a much better product than the RC Blimp products were. If fits very well in the space provided, although the hole that's factory drilled in the bottom of the fuselage for the stock tailwheel is a little too much forward to fit the J&J. Easy solution is to mark the centerline of the fuselage and drill a new 1/4" hole. The downside is that the additional support needed for the vertical leg of the wire gear is located where the stock gear is supposed to mount, with no support (it's anticipated most would use the stock gear) at the location used to mount the J&J gear. If you're not opposed to opening up the covering on one side of the fuselage you can easily add another layer of 1/8" or 3/16" light ply (or a pice of thick balsa sheet) over the existing layer to provide additional tailwheel support. If you don't want to open up the side use the stock gear. In any event, remove the sheet metal screws after the initial installation and harden the threads with thin ca glue. It works great and the screws don't fall out.

The rear mounting bracket that comes with the J&J tailwheel is just a little too wide for the most aft mounting point so a little creativity is in order. I used some nylon electrical wire supports in the same manner RC Blimp gear was mounted. A note about the J&J mounts is in order. The mounts are very nice and extremely easy to use but the holes cast into the mounts for the attaching screws is pretty large for most purposes. I had to use a #6 screw with a flat washer to span the hole dimensions and provide something for the screw head to rest on. Think I'll send a note to J&J to see if they might consider casting the mounting brackets with a smaller hole or none at all to better facilitate different screw sizes.

Pictures of the manufacturer hardware kit labeling, the J&J tailwheel and black mounting bracket, attachment method, and interior fuse support are attached for clarity. Bear in mind that the J&J tailwheel is also intended for aircraft 40% plus in size so it should be expected to have a larger mounting bracket to fit larger planes.

If you haven't already mounted the engine or determined where it will go be sure to remove the tailwheel if you intend to stand up the fuselage for the engine mounting process. Hope you have a ladder handy

A little note about hardware kits:

The factory provides what is seen in the pictures and arrives in the box with the plane. However, Wild Hare provides an extremely complete and high end accessory hardware kit at an addtional charge. Somewhere around $75.00 or so but don't hold me or them to that number. The accessory hardware kit contains fun stuff like the gas tank, fuel line, fuel dot, wheels, axels, pull/pull kit, parts for making linkages, and other stuff that you normally have to run out an locate or order separately from other mail order vendors. Gas isn't cheap anymore so running around costs $$, let alone the lost time. Additional mail order charges from other vendors can add a lot to the cost of an assembly. It's well worth the effort to call or e-mail Wild Hare to find out more about the accessory hardware kits and other products they carry that you might want or require and order everything at the same time. Things like servos, batteries, propellers, pre-cut spinners, and engines are there for those that may need or desire them. Saves you time and money!!

Main Gear

The main gear are too easy. As usual the mounting holes for the main gear are pre drilled in the gear legs and in the bottom of the fuselage. Inside the fuselage the holes are drilled through the aluminum angle brackets that provide tremendous amounts of stress support during landings. In all the Wild Hare planes I've had I've never managed to tear the gear legs out of the fuselage and there have been some pretty nasty landings at one time or another. On one "arrival" after the engine quit in a medium height hover and the plane (28% Extra) barely had time to return to upright and level before impacting the ground from a near vertical fall. The message is you have to try very hard to rip the bottom out of a Wild Hare plane during a "landing". Well designed gear mounts that give us all that warm and fuzzy feeling when we make that less that perfoect landing

The main gear is attached with four #8 screws and nylock nuts that are provided in the manufacturer provided hardware kit. Easy to find since the package is labeled "main wheel". In that package you will find a couple of blind nuts that you will later use on the wheel pants. It a simple task to bolt up the main gear to the fuselage but you will want to "square" the gear legs with the fuselage before tightening the screws and nuts. Measure from the front of the gear legs to the cowl mounting flange on the bottom of the fuselage to square the gear. Being off a little bit can cause the plane to steer a bit less than straight ahead on the ground. You can use blue Locktite to secure the nylock nuts when you attach the nuts or green Locktite to wick down into the threads after attaching the nuts. Your choice, but be sure to use something. Nothing worse than watching the gear fall off or swing sideways when the plane is in flight.

The pictures of the main gear installation should pretty well cover questions about a pipe tunnel.
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:27 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

rcairflr

Regarding the wing area. Although I have yet to do pics with the wings on I did some rough measuring and math today. Tom stated in another thread that the wing area will be around 1,900 sq.in. I haven't measured areas in quite a while but taking the length times the width, adding for the fuselage area, and subtracting for the wing taper, I came up with a bit over 2,200 sq. in. There's a little wiggle room in that since I did not factor the fuselage taper, but the amount I left out of the posted number, about 95 sq. in., should cover that.

Don't hold my feet to the fire over that number. It could be off 100 or so square inches.
Old 09-28-2008, 08:58 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Measure the root and tip. Add together and divide by 2, then multiply by 102.5 (the wing span).

This is the accepted formula for determining wing area.

TF
Old 09-28-2008, 09:13 AM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Easier than the way I did it. 1985 sq.in. using the accepted way.
Old 09-28-2008, 12:34 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Thanks, for the wing area measurement
Old 09-28-2008, 08:39 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

I still believe it to be better than 2,000 since I deducted the actual amount of wing taper, but what the heck.
Old 09-28-2008, 09:44 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Potato, tomato!

TF
Old 09-28-2008, 10:09 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Old 10-02-2008, 06:29 PM
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Canopy/Hatch

For those of you that already have this together, which is probably most, you might want to skip this post. For those that have problems with canopies, this is for you, and it works on any size Wild Hare or other manufacturer's aircraft.

I wasn't going to do this one but I've seen a few posts that indicate that some people either have trouble mounting a canopy or just don't like having to do one. They are not difficult, just a little time consuming. If you were building a kit or doing a scratch build you could spend days building a hatch, measuring and marking the canopy position, cutting a recessed well for the canopy to to set into, fill the recess, and later do the covering and/or paint to make for that perfect blend. About a week all told if you ever added it up. Our ARF manufacturers make it a lot easier at the expense of a little labor, and a lot cheaper by not recessing. It's also a lot easier to repair if you ever damage the canopy. You would add a lot of money for a perfectly recessed and finished hatch. At 30' you are hard pressed to tell the difference between a user assembled hatch and a home built recessed one.

I generally use the following method (or similar) when working on a hatch/canopy assembly since it's easy, pretty clean in the final appearance, and is extremely secure. Note in the pictures that the tabs on the front of the hatch are square ends. Nice and hold well but when you lift the rear of the hatch to remove it they often hang up. When that happens some people not paying attention keep lifting and bugger up the tabs. I round up the bottom front of the tabs to let them roll out a little easier and it permits a slightly higher lift at the back of the canopy without any binding up front. Easy to do with a coarse file.

I don't much care for the way machine screws will loosen up and fall out of hatch assemblies. Worse, you have to carry a supply of machine screws if you want to fly more than once or twice a day. I don't like the looks of a machine screw with a big rubber bonded washer about as much. Tom came up with the idea of using a nylon screw some time back and I've been using it ever since. In three planes I've only had one of them fall out and I'm still not certain that I tightened it to begin with. Of coarse you can use the supplied machine screws instead if you so desire. In that event, don't remove the blind nuts and skip on to the actual canopy installation.

Use a hot soldering iron to loosen up the glue securing the blind nuts. They'll push right out without damaging the ply tabs when done this way. While you have the soldering iron hot, locate the hatch mounting holes that are under the covering on the fuselage and open/seal them with the soldering iron. You could do the mounting holes for the elevators and lower cowl mounts while you're at it. Bunch of small things done at once

Due to the diameter of the blind nut shaft the 35% Edge ends up using a #10 nylon screw. The 28% planes generally use a #8 if you're careful and don't pry the blind nuts out of the tabs and tear up the ply in the process. That's why we heat the blind nuts up, avoiding that damage. Drill out the holes in the side of the fuselage, making the holes just large enough to have a tight fit when you slide a 10-32 nylon screw through the hole. Now use some thin ca glue and coat the holes in the hatch tabs to harden them up. After the glue dries tap the hatch tab holes with a 10-32 tap. Coat the new threads with thin ca again. Now go back and chase out the threads with the tap one final time. The result is some nice sharp threads to run the nylon screws through. Cut off the nylon screws to a length you will be happy with. I like mine about 1/4" longer than the combined thickness of the hatch tab and fuselage. You don't need to use a washer if you don't want to, just don't crank down hard on the screws when you attach the canopy before flying. They don't back out.

Now on to the actual canopy. Note that the hatch must be attached to the fusleage for accurate alignment of the aft hatch bulkhead with the fuselage turtledeck.

Install the hatch on the fuselage and secure it with the nylon screws. Fit the canopy onto the hatch and tape it in place. Check to see if the canopy needs trimmed for length or on the sides. I like to use tape to mark cut lines. It's easy to run scissors alongside when cutting straight lines and you don't have to clean off any residual ink from a marker. Once you've made the cuts, check the fit again. If you're happy use some 180g or whatever sandpaper to clean up the edges of the canopy. Use a sanding block for the long straight edges. When that's done lightly sand the inside and outside edges of the canopy to remove any white colored sanding "fuzz".

The factory hardware package contains some small Phillips screws that are used for securing the canopy. Some people prefer to use only the screws to hold the canopy but I prefer to use both screws and glue for a solid attachment. Less canopy "drumming" that way. Tape the canopy back on the hatch, aligning as needed. Find a few locations where you can drill a 1/16" hole at the locations that where screws will be installed. I use 5 screw points, others use a few more. The front of the canopy rests on an area of very thin balsa with a layer of foam under. You might want to carefully remove a little bit of foam and add a small hardwood or balsa block to provide more backing for the screw threads. Use the screws to attach the canopy, making sure that the canopy lays as flat as possible where it contacts the hatch. If you are only going to use the screws, skip over the next step.

Use a pencil to mark where the canopy edges are on the hatch. Remove the screws and the canopy. Use 180 or 220g sandpaper to rough up the edges of the canopy and insode the pencil lines on the hatch. It will greatly assist the glue in it's adhesion of the hatch and canopy. Remove the hatch and lay a piece of wax paper between the hatch and the fuselage. Re-attach the hatch and secure with the nylon screws. Run a thin line of RC-56 glue around the edges of the canopy where you previously sanded. It doesn't take very much and you don't want so much that it becomes a runny mess. It cleans up with plain water if you do get some runs. Place the canopy onto the hatch and re-install the screws to obtain the desired alignment. Use some low tack tape to pull down the canopy onto the hatch where it might appear a little loose. Set the whole thing aside to dry overnight.

Some may have noticed that my canopy runs back a little farther than the aft hatch bulkhead. That's a personal thing because I generally don't glue the canopy to the aft hatch bulkhead. I just leave it loose. Then again, if I wanted to glue it I would do the bulkhead to canopy joint after the main part of the canopy was fully complete. Then I'd install the hatch, mark the part to be trimmed away with tape. Then lay some wax paper between the hatch bulkhead and the turtle deck and apply some RC-56 at the canopy joint, re-install the hatch on the fuselage, and set aside until dry.

Anyway, come back after 12 to 24 hours and remove the tape by pulling from the top of the canopy down. Not from the bottom up. I like to trim out my canopies with various colors of 3M vinyl electrical tape. Quite a few of the tape colors are close to Ultracoat colors so the match is close. Remove the screws, apply tape from the rear of the canopy working forward, re-install the screws and it's done.

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Old 10-03-2008, 09:58 PM
  #22  
Tired Old Man
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Two more canopy pics. The entire process takes a couple hours if you work as slow as I do

I think it took longer to write, take the pics, re-size and upload them than it did to complete the canopy.
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Old 10-04-2008, 06:15 AM
  #23  
rctom
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Default RE: New 35% Edge


Thanks Pat for all that effort. Now that it's done I can tell you that the production planes will have the canopy pre-attached.

I just received one of the new 35% Extra 260s, and the canopy is beautiful. I'll put som epics up when I'm a little further along.

TF
Old 10-04-2008, 10:45 AM
  #24  
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Default RE: New 35% Edge

Oh well....at least those that obtain planes without attached canopies now have a complete tutorial on how to do the job

Perhaps you would add some of the new canopy pics to this thread?
Old 10-04-2008, 05:21 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: New 35% Edge


This is the hatch/canopy assembly for the new 35% Extra 260.

This is how it comes out of the box.

I've included a few other photos as well, I'm working on assembling one and rewriting the manual at the same time.

The colors are not accurate, my camera is showing the blue much lighter than it actually is. THe blue is Ultracote Deep Blue.

TF
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