gcflies

Hi,

Just completed an engine rebuilding.

Final check before hooking engine to fuel delivery system to check for pressurization of fuel tank.

Question on regulator
1. Default position of regulator screw position is flushed with regulator edge?
2. Compressed air nipple from crankshaft and compressed air nipple to fuel tank. I could blow air into either nipple, and air exited through the other nipple. Is this a normal behavior?
3. Fuel supply nipple and nipple to carb. Blew air into nipple to carburetor, air exited from the other nipple. Blew air into nipple from fuel tank, no air through to nipple to carburetor. Is this a normal behavior?

Thanks!
gcflies

gcflies

Reset all needles to factory default and regulator screw flushed with regulator body, and then 1/4 turn in.
Engine fired up alright.
Able to hold low RPM for warming up
Quit on throttle advance from low to mid-range.
Found out that tank pressure did not build.
Alas, pressure nipple on crankcase came loose...

Unlike 91 or 110, this nipple on 110s is not the screw-in type.
I could not get the nipple to sit tight back in, so resolved to JB Weld HighHeat Epoxy Putty

Will try to start the engine again later after epoxy is cured.

Curious if there is anyone who managed to fix this issue successfully, and how it was done.

If JB weld could not fix it, does this mean a new crankcase is in order (Ouch!)?

Thanks!
gc

petec

My Feedback: (58)

I've never seen one of those pop loose. If the JB weld doesn't hold I would send it back to Richard and have him look at it.

gcflies

Thanks petec. Will do so.

gcflies

I opened the engine up once more

Found out that the brass bushing behind the front bearing has been rotated out of place.
The hole in the ring is now between 8 and 9 o'clock and not aligned with the hole in the crankcase at 3 o'clock front view.

Same fate as this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ys-e...s-problem.html
Assembled all pieces and will put a test stand this weekend...hopefully happy ending like the thread above.

gcflies

Hi,

Put the engine on test stand again today.
HNS 1.5 turns out from fully close
LNS 3 turns out from fully close
regulator screw flushed with regulator body top.

Idling stable at around 2K.
Was able to hold 4K rpm stable as well
Transition from low to mid was pretty smooth and with smoke trails
Tank pressure would build as long as I did not go above mid range.

The moment I went beyond mid range to go high, engine would choked and quit,
and there would be zero pressure in fuel tank, and the carburetor overflowing with fuel

Open it up again, found that the hole in brass bushing behind front bearing rotated to 9 o'clock front view (no longer at 3 o'clock)

What gives? A case of new crankcase I guess?

Thanks and cheers
gc