110 FZ with no muffler?
#1

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A question for Dave what do you think of running a 110 with no muffler just an extension tube about 6". I'm putting it in a Pica T-28 and there is not much room for one, or could i use the stock muffler with an extension??
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You can buy a YS 0895 exhaust tube and extend it with a piece of silicone hose. All YS engines 91 and up use the same thread in the cylinder head. 13x1mm
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Hi Dave,
I am thinking to put slimline's muffler for YS-140 DZ on my DPM's Ultimate. It will take some triming on cowl to make the muffler fit.
Can I use my YS-110 FZ's standard muffler on YS-140 DZ? It will help me to reduce triming on cowl. Will it reduce any performance on YS-140 DZ?
Many thianks!
Mitch
I am thinking to put slimline's muffler for YS-140 DZ on my DPM's Ultimate. It will take some triming on cowl to make the muffler fit.
Can I use my YS-110 FZ's standard muffler on YS-140 DZ? It will help me to reduce triming on cowl. Will it reduce any performance on YS-140 DZ?
Many thianks!
Mitch
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Hi Dave,
Is the muffler for 110 same as muffler sell with 140 FZ? Should I use this 110/140 FZ stantard muffler (but remove the baffle)?
Or should I go with muffler from "Performace Speciality"? Which one will keep the power better?
I am just curious. Does the 140 DZ run with higher power if I do not put muffler on it?
Thanks a lot!!!
Mitch
Is the muffler for 110 same as muffler sell with 140 FZ? Should I use this 110/140 FZ stantard muffler (but remove the baffle)?
Or should I go with muffler from "Performace Speciality"? Which one will keep the power better?
I am just curious. Does the 140 DZ run with higher power if I do not put muffler on it?
Thanks a lot!!!
Mitch
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Don't run it without some kind of muffler. The FZ and 110 muffler have a little different volumes, and that's why I said to remove the baffle. The PS mufflers won't add any HP but have a number of different mountings for convenience.
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Hi Dave,
If you use the 110 muffler on the 140L or an older 120, do you still need to take the baffle out? I have both engines beside the 110 I just bought. The 140 is inside the cowl on a Hangar 9, PT-19, with flex tubing as the exhaust routing out the back of the cowl.
I am told it will be very loud. So if it is I was wondering if I can use the 110 muffler to quiet it down. It looks like it is small enough it can go inside the cowl and maybe a small outlet hole on the side of the cowl with no trouble.
Thanks,
Bill
If you use the 110 muffler on the 140L or an older 120, do you still need to take the baffle out? I have both engines beside the 110 I just bought. The 140 is inside the cowl on a Hangar 9, PT-19, with flex tubing as the exhaust routing out the back of the cowl.
I am told it will be very loud. So if it is I was wondering if I can use the 110 muffler to quiet it down. It looks like it is small enough it can go inside the cowl and maybe a small outlet hole on the side of the cowl with no trouble.
Thanks,
Bill
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The 110 muffler is short on volume fo the 140 and will likely cause it the run pretty hot. But taking the baffle out will help the heat, however, it will be louder.
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Thanks for your reply as I am new to YS engines. I have 3 of them now and have yet to fire one up. Soon I hope. Two I bought used and are in winter projects that I have finished up, but due to the weather around here I have not flown them yet. The newest one, the 110, just came Tuesday and will go into a Quest 3D I just purchased.
Questions for you. Right now I have a Macs adapter and flex pipe on the 140L in the Hangar 9, PT-19. From your response to other posts it sounds like it should work just fine. However, I am concerned about the noise. Other fliers at the field say this hook up will be very noisy. Will it be too noisy that I should look for another muffler? I do have a pspec muffler with the pivot but I cannot get it to line up the way i would like as the cowl is very narrow. Maybe i need to try an angled elbow? Thanks again.....
Questions for you. Right now I have a Macs adapter and flex pipe on the 140L in the Hangar 9, PT-19. From your response to other posts it sounds like it should work just fine. However, I am concerned about the noise. Other fliers at the field say this hook up will be very noisy. Will it be too noisy that I should look for another muffler? I do have a pspec muffler with the pivot but I cannot get it to line up the way i would like as the cowl is very narrow. Maybe i need to try an angled elbow? Thanks again.....
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No, not the way it is set up. They designed that plane around a Saito 1.50 and G23. I will try and get the pspec muffler with the pivot in there or I will figure out if i can do it with an angled elbow. If I could only get another 10-15 degress on the pivot, it would work just fine. Thanks again.
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Hi Dave,
I got the pspec muffler in there and it worked out better than I thought.
Took the plane to the field today for the maiden flight and it did not go so well. The engine is not new as I bought it used but the plane is. First time I started it up the needle valve was 2 1/2 turns out. I am running Magnum 20% nitro with 20% synthetic oil with a 16 x 10 APC prop. The guy I bought the engine from said to start there with the prop selection, so I did. She started up and was idling. Went to full throttle and then she popped or burped or whatever you want to call it but the next thing I knew the Tru-Turn prop hub, double nuts, washer and prop were coming my way. Threw them clean off and scared the you know what out of me!!!. What a way to meet your first YS engine. The prop ended up with a nick in it so I no longer wanted to use it.
I had a 16 x 10 and a 16 x 8 Master Air Screw prop with me. I used the 16 x 8 as I thought the 16 x 10 MAS might be too much prop as they are not effiecient as the APC props. With the 16 x 8, needle valve a 2 1/2 turns out, and same fuel, she would start and run at idle but as soon as you go to full throttle she would die. She was also very, very hot like she was too lean. I richen it up and still the same result. So my guess is maybe the 16 x 8 was the wrong choice. At that point I gave up as I didn't want to do any damage or risk more damage by running it any longer, or even try it with the MAS 16 x 10.
Looking in the 140L manual, the prop sizes are 14 x 14, 15 x 12 to 15 x 14, and 16 x 11 to 16 x 14. The guy I bought it from ran it with a 17 x 12 and she ran super. I see posts here on RCU with people using 18 x 6 or 17 x 8, etc.. So the first question is what size prop should I be using on this engine and the second is, if the prop size I used was not causing the problem, any ideas on what it could be?
Thanks again,
Bill
I got the pspec muffler in there and it worked out better than I thought.
Took the plane to the field today for the maiden flight and it did not go so well. The engine is not new as I bought it used but the plane is. First time I started it up the needle valve was 2 1/2 turns out. I am running Magnum 20% nitro with 20% synthetic oil with a 16 x 10 APC prop. The guy I bought the engine from said to start there with the prop selection, so I did. She started up and was idling. Went to full throttle and then she popped or burped or whatever you want to call it but the next thing I knew the Tru-Turn prop hub, double nuts, washer and prop were coming my way. Threw them clean off and scared the you know what out of me!!!. What a way to meet your first YS engine. The prop ended up with a nick in it so I no longer wanted to use it.
I had a 16 x 10 and a 16 x 8 Master Air Screw prop with me. I used the 16 x 8 as I thought the 16 x 10 MAS might be too much prop as they are not effiecient as the APC props. With the 16 x 8, needle valve a 2 1/2 turns out, and same fuel, she would start and run at idle but as soon as you go to full throttle she would die. She was also very, very hot like she was too lean. I richen it up and still the same result. So my guess is maybe the 16 x 8 was the wrong choice. At that point I gave up as I didn't want to do any damage or risk more damage by running it any longer, or even try it with the MAS 16 x 10.
Looking in the 140L manual, the prop sizes are 14 x 14, 15 x 12 to 15 x 14, and 16 x 11 to 16 x 14. The guy I bought it from ran it with a 17 x 12 and she ran super. I see posts here on RCU with people using 18 x 6 or 17 x 8, etc.. So the first question is what size prop should I be using on this engine and the second is, if the prop size I used was not causing the problem, any ideas on what it could be?
Thanks again,
Bill
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Go to the following site:
http://www.qpfa.org.au/YS%20Notes.htm
Best I've seen for tuning questions. Hope this helps!
http://www.qpfa.org.au/YS%20Notes.htm
Best I've seen for tuning questions. Hope this helps!
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The prop size is secondary to the RPM. This engine runs best at between 8300 and 9000. Prop accordingly.
It sounds like there could be something wrong with the engine. If you can't get it sorted out, it may have to come in for service.
It sounds like there could be something wrong with the engine. If you can't get it sorted out, it may have to come in for service.