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FZ 53 setup and run issues

Old 11-02-2007, 04:38 PM
  #1  
amunro
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Default FZ 53 setup and run issues

I purchased an FZ 53 with (reportedly, and from a reputable person) very little run time on it. My intention is to put it on a Sig Citabria that I'm going to build this winter. However, I won a model in a contest a month ago that seemed the ideal test bed. Long story abbreviated, the first flights went remarkably well.

The engine started right up and ran very well. Using the instructions published on the internet , we set the high end and then attempted to set the low end. This is when we discovered that the low end needle was missing. Scratching our heads that it was able to run at all, we set the idle at about 2500 rpm and flew the plane for a couple of tank fulls.

The exploded diagrams I found on the internet show a low speed needle, and the hole is threaded. I ordered a needle for the engine (same as the YS 63) and installed it. It doesn't go all the way into the hole, so the O-ring doesn't engage to keep it still. I was at the flying field last weekend without my friend who is much better at needle turning than I am and couldn't get it to start.

Now I read on this forum that the early FS53 didn't even have a low end needle, which goes a long way towards explaining why it ran. Does anyone know of a serial number cut off where the 53 did or did not have a low end needle? It appears from knowedgable (sounding) people on this forum that I should now expect to set my low end with the pump regulator which conflicts with the other instructions which state that you set it flush and forget it.

I'm prepared to remove the needle and adjust using the pump regulator, I just want to make sure I'm headed in the correct direction. Any input from the gallery is appreciated.

BTW, I'm running 20% nitro and a 12x8 prop, and it's mounted upside down.

Thanks!
Old 11-02-2007, 11:32 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: FZ 53 setup and run issues

The 53 didn't have that throttle barrel adjustment screw.

The threaded hole is to allow you to switch the throttle arm to the other side of the engine..

Now that being all said. The 53 came out at the same time that Ys started to do the low speed air bleed screw. So I know of a few 53's that got an upgrade to the new throttle barrel.

I know this because I have one of those engines. a 53 with the newer style barrel on it only becasue I installed it...it was a new thing at the time and the production engines were not getting them. The 63 came out shortly after this and all 63 engines have this air bleed screw.

On your 53, you just adjust the low end using the same criteria for lean or rich but the adjustment is made to the regulator screw. Out is rich and in is LEAN on this Regulator screw.

This engine will run perfect without the low speed air bleed screw. The change was made to fine tune the idle mixture. This allows you to have 3 setting. The HS the regulator for mid range and the low speed for idle.

The original YS engines only had the HS and the regulator adjustment. This will work fine....

When we were setting up the engines in pattern models especially the mid range would get rich enough to be dead perfect, but the idle would load up after about a minute or so. The air bleed screw allows the idle to be leaned out just a tad while keeping the mid range rich for the transition.

By the way if you are idling above 2000rpm the air bleed idle screw is not doing anything anyways. It only works at a very low idle of 2000rpm and below

So set the regulator flush and if its loading up a little lean it out on the reg just a little 1/8th at a time. Then if its surging its too lean and needs to be richened on the regualtor again 1/8th at a time...Just remember the regulator screw is out CCW for rich and CW or in for lean. same as the HS needle on this enigne.

If you have an engine with the airbleed screw this screw works backward from the HS needle but you don't have an engine with this throttle barrel. If you wanted to upgrade to the need throttle barrel that is the only part you would need. the throttle barrel. Then you would have a 53 with the air bleed.

There is no serial nmber on the engines, and no cut off date...The later versions came with and earlier versions did not. There is no way to know.
Old 11-05-2007, 01:12 PM
  #3  
amunro
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Default RE: FZ 53 setup and run issues

Troy,
Thanks for the prompt reply, and thanks for making yourself available to those of us running YS engines.

I will remove the needle I bought from the hole and set the pump regulator flush the next time out, then go from there. We had ended up with the idle above 2000 because we were unable to follow the published instructions regarding setting the low end needle. 2400 (or so) kept it from loading up and dying at least for long enough to get some stick time.

The engine sounds awesome and pulls the plane it's bolted to right along.

Looking forward to many happy flights with my new toy.

Thanks again!
Old 11-05-2007, 10:31 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: FZ 53 setup and run issues

remember on the regulator flush is a good starting point not always the perfect setting but it should be within 1 turn each way and likely 1/2 turn each way.


Troy

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