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110 air effects

Old 11-15-2007, 07:32 PM
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show871
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Default 110 air effects

Just got my 110 running great, a touch on the rich side. This is my second gallon through the motor. My engine at the end of the day just started running flat.....kind of lost the quick zappy rip it had earlier in the day. It started and ran ok at the end......just lost the snappy rip. It actually seemed a hair quiter too (weird)

Can the air conditions zap out noticable horspower hourly??

I adjusted my reg, both needles, and really got nowhere.

Is there anything else I should check??????or could the air of just changed??????

Thanks

871
Old 11-15-2007, 07:36 PM
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Default RE: 110 air effects

I was most noticable when i would wick it from low to FT.......it would just act like the power was not there.

My first few flights I would wick FT = rocketship
Old 11-15-2007, 07:53 PM
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show871
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Default RE: 110 air effects

I checked the weather by the hr, and it really did not change much at all, so now I am worried!
Old 11-15-2007, 08:26 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: 110 air effects

As the engine starts to really break in it will richen up and will need to be leaned down. This is becasue the engine is not producing the amount of heat when all the parts were tight.

So it could have richened up. Regulator adjustment and low end don't really affect the top end power....so if it was lacking power after break in it might need to be leaned a little bit.

Always setup the engines per the rules.

#1 HS needle peak and back off (richen) 200-300rpm from the peak. This needs to be done with a Tach

#2 Idle rpm is 2000. Again with a tach watch the rpms if they surge up and down from the 2000rpm then the idle air bleed screw should be dialed IN (CW) to richen. If the motor loads up and dies slowly from the 2000rpm idle its too rich and needs to be leaned dial the air bleed screw out (CCW) to lean it.

#3 mid rnage is the regulator adjustment same test as the idle test but the rpm is 4000rpm. This adjustment screw works the same as a HS needle OPEN (CCW) is richer and (CW) is leaner.

Now....next step.

Your engine is new and breaking in. The vlave tappet adjustments are going to change about 2-3 gallons depending on the engine. This will affect top end power also. Re-set the tappet clearances per the manual and you will likley get you power back. Contrary to popular belief the tappet adjustment doesn't really affect mixture setting much but can affect the top end power.

So your engine is likely two issues. It went richer as its getting broken and not running as hot. So you need to possibly lean the top end. Also the tappet clearance on the valves is likely wearing in and the gaps are getting bigger. This is a normal thing you should check every 2-3 gallons for about 5-10gallons then it will get stable and you should check every 5 gallons or so...but its rare that it really changes much after about 10 gallons.


You had asked me about switching fuels? I think it was you? Did you switch to the 20%...this would account for the change in the snappy response of the engine.
The less nitro and the different oil will both account for this.

Troy Newman
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Old 11-15-2007, 09:06 PM
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Default RE: 110 air effects

Thanks for the heads up!

Yea, I will check those things....I probably just never leaned it quite enough. and the tappets

is there a pretty big noticable difference between the 20 & 30???? I have yet to try the 20

I might just stick with the 30% if there is, I was wanting to switch cause it was crazy power, but after today It could have used MORE power!

Thanks!

871

Old 11-16-2007, 12:18 AM
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Default RE: 110 air effects

May I also suggest that you simplify your life and learn to leave the needle valve alone.

I have noticed that the guys that are always tweaking for that last bit of power on their "sport flyer" actually cause themselves more problems than the engine ever could on it's own.
Once you have achieved a good consistent idle, transition and full power setting, leave it be unless it actually does need to be adjusted.

I can fly my engines year round with only very minor adjustments for seasonal changes.
And yes we do get seasons in the central valley of California.

I will admit that if you are in a competition situation the "need" for max power may make it necessary to do a little more tweaking, but even in these conditions I have observed competitors take themselves out of the race due to tweaking the needle a bit too lean.

Please take no offense, I am not suggesting that you have actually done this.
But if you are finding that you may be tempted to tweak a little more, ask yourself if it really needs it.

Have fun.
Old 11-16-2007, 09:31 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: 110 air effects

Tommy Gun is right on...however when they are new and breaking in things will change. I would say after about 4-5 gallons it will be totally settled down...In fact 3 gallons should do it....but after that things will be pretty consistent.

Having lived in Colorado at the 5000-6000ft elevation. Temp changes will have a much bigger affect. You will likely be about 1/4 to 1/2 tunr different between july at 95-100degs and January at 40degs

I found the higher elevation measn the mixture is set much leaner than at sea level and the temp changes will have a much bigger affect. However if you follow the peak and back off 200-300rpm you will not have an issue. A normal location that is below about 1500ft elevation and reasonable temps....you will never need to touch it...but the high elevation can play a role.

The difference in 20% to 30% could be about 300-400rpm depending on your conditions...If you are listening to the engine the differenc eof 300rpm will be noticable to your ear. However top end performance is not a huge huge difference but you can feel it.

Troy Newman
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