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ys110

Old 11-17-2007, 07:01 PM
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htunstill
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How is the best way to remove carbon on ys110
Old 11-17-2007, 09:38 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: ys110

Depends on how bad it is and what it is....

If its from Castor oil fuels...you will have to scrape it off. On the Valves stems an x-acto #11 blade works pretty good...You have to be careful...

In some cases it will just wipe off with a solvent like MEK or Denatured alcohol. Now remember any silicone parts have to be removed if you use MEK , acetone or the likes....Denatured Alcohol is fine on the silicone parts but is not as aggressive. Most fo the fuels on the market today will leave their mark in terms of color on the raw aluminum parts. The Cool power Heli fuel is Bright Orange and the aluminum parts will turn orange colored. A Green fuel like Cool Power Pro Pattern is a 20% oil fuel suitable in YS is a green color and the raw aluminum parts will turn green. This si from the dye in the fuel...Denatured Alky will take it right off to a shiny aluminum finish.

The Carbon build up is a bit tougher....Usually you will get some minor deposits ont he exhaust valve stem...but the rest of the engine is clean and clear using the CP 30% heli. If you are getting more than this then the oil package being used is the casue of the carbon build up...


Stubborn stuff. Some Carb cleaners or Brake cleaners will work...with a small brush...don't have a wire brush and whatevery synthetic brissle brush you choose will likely get eaten by the solvent you are using...So try some stuff here....After its clean....Wash it with Soap and water to remove the solvent...Then rinse in Denatured alky and let dry then re-assemble. Those solvents can't be anywhere in the engine when you put it back together. They will attack the silicone seals and they will be leaking almost instantly.

If the Carbon continues look to another fuel brand, or product. I have mentioned Cool Power and I personally use it and I'm a member of Team Cool Power. I feel its important to disclose that. However I choose the fuel I run for this reason. I recieve no specific compensation for telling folks what a good fuel it is and that I'm Team Cool power. I struggled with these issues and foudn the Cool Power 30% Heli to be better than any other I tried. That is why I run it.

There are many other fuels out there and they are from good companies. Your loyalties are yours for a reason and I have no quams with that. If you are looking for a new product becasue of the performanc eof your current one then I suggest trying the CP. I did and that is why I choose it.

Troy Newman
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:08 PM
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htunstill
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Default RE: ys110

Thanks Troy for quick reply=This is my 1st one to take apart I have 4 110=3 63=1 140 all doing fine but this one was hard to start and did not have as much comp as the others. it did have some carbon around exhaust valve so I though I would try to clean up. I do run 30% CP but some of the problem is that I have to many planes not time to run all reg. Sometimes they will set for few month

Thanks
Harold
Old 11-18-2007, 12:44 AM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: ys110

Do clean the exhaust valve...Just remove the head, remove the cone shaped keepers and the valve will drop straight out. The scrape it with a #11 blade and the stuff will be very dry and come off extremely easily its its CP 30% Heli.

While you are at it look at the valve seat. Look at the valve. make sure it looks like a little shiny spot when its sealing.

You can also Lapp the valve in the head. I have used Tooth paste like the old style stuff, not the gel types.

What I have done in the past is use a rubber eraser in a dreamily at very low speed. Put the tooth paste on it.... Then "bump" the bottom of the valve and let it spin a little at a time. Don't grind it in.

After a few bumps. Take it apart and clean the parts with soapy water, then rinse with denatured alky.

Then look at the seat and the Valve....make sure its all clean and even...if it has nicks and such then do it again.

Next thing is when you set the tappets clearances after its back together...make sure the there is a gap. It can be less than 0.002" but it needs to have a gap....This gap means the spring is pulling the valve up and closed so it can seal.


Trick NOTE:


Get a clear plastic bag and put the engine head, and your hands inside it when removing the cone shaped spring retainers and springs. If you don't use a plastic bag you WILL eventually shoot the spring, retaining ring and cone shape retainers across the room never to be found again.

I have a really big Ziplock style bag I use. The spring goes boom and I just collect the parts from inside the bag. You have to aim it into the sealed end of the bag...but its rare to loose one doing it this way.

Troy Newman
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