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fz110s and fz110

Old 11-19-2007, 03:05 PM
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playntraffic
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Default fz110s and fz110

I have bought a new fz110s. Is the tuning any different between the FZ and the FZS? I have been reading through here and am confused because the needle settings and the use of the regulator for tuning is frequently mentioned in 110FZ threads. The paperwork with the FZS says to turn the high speed needle out 1.5 turns and the low speed out 3 turns and doesn't even mention the regulator. Should I be using the advice given to others in the past that have the FZ, or is the new S model totally different?

Where should I start with the initial needle settings? Thanks.

Old 11-21-2007, 08:19 PM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

The 110S works the same as the others functionally. However the regulator has changed a little. Normally on a 110FZ the regulator is attached tot he engine case. You set the regulator screw flush with this case location as a starting point. On the 110S and the 63S the regulator is external of the engine case and it has a new box its in.

The regulator screw reference location is no longer flush with the case.


As for regulator adjustments. The regulator is a like a course adjustment that will affect the mid-range and idle while the idle air bleed screw(low Speed mixture) is for fine tuning that idle mixture.

Now this is important. The idle mixture screw only works down near 2000rpm. So if your idle is up at 2500rpm it will have very little affect. Also this is a needle valve that is controlling fuel. It is an air bleed screw and controls extra air at idle rpm only. So it will work backward from a normal needle valve. Dial the screw out makes the air hole bigger allowing more air in the mixture and this leans it. To dial the idle screw closed will reduce the size of the air bleed hole and let less air flow past hence it will richen the mixture.

In most case the regulator screw is very close in its factory setting. However the adjustment is there to get it correct. You should not have to adjust the regulator very much either way if the engine is working properly. The biggest affect you will see from adjusting the regulator is in the mid-range. And precisely at about 4000rpm. This is just above idle. For reference the regulator screw works the same way a HS needle valve does. In is lean and out is richer. On this type of regulator.

This does not apply to the "DZ" engines. These engines are slightly different as they are fuel injected the 110S and 110FZ don't fall into this category


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Old 11-22-2007, 09:54 AM
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

Thank you Troy.
Old 11-26-2007, 03:47 PM
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

I am having trouble getting my 110s to idle after startup and not quit on landing. As part of eliminating potential causes, I am looking for any dirt in system. Everything has been checked except regulator. Can this regulator be disassembled?
Old 11-26-2007, 05:01 PM
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

Getting the engine to idle properly after run up and at the end of a flight can be tricky until you understand what is going on.

The engine at the end of the flight will be hot and up to operating temperature. This will tend to make the mixture leaner. If you idle mixture setting is already too lean then it can be too lean at the end of the flight.

Another issue is glow plug. You should use a OS #F or YS plug. These are the same glow plug.

Just becasue it glows doesn't mean it is a good plug.

Use the following website for some details on engine setup. We are working on some stuff for the YS performance website but its not done yet. I haven't had the time to finish it up. Since I'm not a paid employee its been sliding to the back burner lately.

http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/ys_engines.php


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Old 12-28-2007, 12:53 AM
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

I have been offered the sale of a FZ110, can anyone explain the difference between this and the FZ110S.

Thanks.
Mario
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Old 12-28-2007, 02:03 AM
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Troy Newman
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Default RE: fz110s and fz110

Sure can.

The 110FZ-S has an external regulator. This helps in high heat applications like 3D stuff. This helps keep the fuel cooler before it goes into the engine. The result it will take abusive situations better like hovering for long periods of time. The older style 110FZ had the regulator attached to the case of the engine. So if the engine gets hot so does the regulator.

Next the cylinder has no sleeve. The jug is treated and hardened so there is no heavy sleeve. This system has been very proven and was previously used for the last several years on the YS-63S. You can tell by the color of the casting that it has been treated. This makes the engine a little lighter....but what it really does is make the head transfer heat better. This means again the engine can handle high heat abusive situations like hovering for long periods with little to no air flow better.

Next change the crankshaft was changed to include a ring on the rear of the crank. This helps seal off the bottom of the case making the super charger stronger. This results in about 200-300rpm in better performance. While they were at it they beefed up the 110 case a little since its now making more power....and also changed the bearings to accommodate the higher heat abusive conditions. Now the bearings are better prepared for this type of flying.

Overall the engine will handle heat better and will turn about 200-300rpm more than the older style 110FZ

These are also the changes between the 63FZ and the 63FZ-S except the 63S does NOT have the Crankshaft ring.

The difference in actual flying is minimal. I would say its likely 1 prop size. From a 14-10 or 14-11 to a 14-12. Depending on the fuel and the application you are using. In 90% of the models and flying most people do you would never know the difference between the two engines. The 110S would feel a little stronger but not enough to really matter in 90-95% of the applications.

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