110 FZ problem
 

Have a 110 on a Yak that has been sitting for probably 5 months or so in the basement-consistent temps and not damp. Went to turn the prop today and the bearings felt a little scratchy at first but seemed to loosen up after a few rotations but then all of a sudden it lost almost all compression-just barely enough left to feel the compression stroke. I'm sure it needs sent in but I'm really curious about the compression deal-did something else give out? Running Byrons 30/24 and always run the engine dry at the end of a day of flying.

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

If it has been sitting for 5 months with no fuel or oil in it then its probably dry, actually I know it is. So turning it over is not a good idea. Put a small amount of fuel in it and compression will come back.

What happens is the fuel evaporates and all that is left is the oil, the oil will then start to dry out.

If they have been sitting you want to get a little raw fuel in them to turn it over....If you run it, it should come back just like before. Its common when then get dry to have the compression feel like nearly nothing is there. The ring could be hung up in the goop left from the oil that was in there.

I can't comment about the fuel, I have not run it. If you are looking to change check out the Cool Power 30% heli blend it is about the best on the market today. I run that in my engines.

Troy Newman
Team YS

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

Troy
Put fuel in her today and just like you suggested the compression came right back like it should be. Next Problem: Would not start-switched out glo plug to make sure that wasn't it. All settings are exactly as they were when I put it up and this engine has always started VERY easy. Seems like it's not getting fuel, but some must be getting there to lube things up-pressure on the line from tank is there but not as much as I think it should be. If my check valve was leaking back could a lack of fuel pressure cause non starting? Cranked for quite a while at all kinds of different throttle settings and not even a pop. Haven't checked much else yet cuz it's in a cowling that I will have to take off tomorrow when I get time. Wondering what ideas you could give me to start checking on-thought there might be something obvious come to mind due to the engine sitting for quite a while and obviously getting dry. Can send it in if I need to but hoping it might be something simple. Thanks

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

Its something simple.

In most cases of been sitting and will not fire...the oil in the regulator and possibly the HS needle has gotten gummed up and thick. Here is one trick that works.


Open the HS needle up about 3 turns more than it normally runs this means like 4-5 turns open. Remember your original setting.

No GLOW attached. Got to full throttle. Run it with a started like you are trying to start it. AGAIN NO GLOW connected.

Spin it for maybe 30 secs or maybe a little more. It should get the fuel flowing through the engine and clean out any gunk that has turned to gel.

The problem is the methanol and Nitro will evaporate and then all that is left is the oil....Some fuels will do this worse than others.

Once it gets wet...you should see a drip or so from the carb...but likely you will hear the engine change in its rpm as you spin it with a starter.

Close the HS needle back to its starting place....Then go to idle throttle position and apply glow and start.

For the first few minutes of running just warm the engine up slowly...don't slam it open to full power just let it run at a high idle. Don't get too concerned if the mixtures seem off just run it to warm things up. Once it gets heated up the gelled up oil with clear out of the nooks and crannies and it will run like it did before.

Troy Newman
Team YS

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

Troy
Tried that and after 20-30 seconds I got several drips out of carb so fuel is that far evidently but when I tried to start it not even a pop. Tried 2 different globees that both checked out good. Any ideas?? thanks

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

Then completely remove the HS needle and do the same trick this should flush any junk that may be the HS needle valave seat. Perhaps when the HS is open it is clear but not after you close the needle back to its proper operation position.

Next is the glow plug battery...?

If it has fuel to the carb and has good glow then it will fire.

Could it have gotten flooded when you got fuel to it the first time? What type of glow driver are you using? Can you see the current draw? Remote glow plug adapter? Is it still connected if you are using a remote?

basically the engine will fire if it has juice and has glow it will fire.


Troy Newman
Team YS

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

That's why I'm kinda puzzled, after I saw fuel at the carb I thought it would start. Used 2 different regular clip on type glow chargers that both checked out fine on a spare plug. Couple more questions before I try again tomorrow. Is ther a way to tell if it is flooded? Wasn't getting any fuel dripping out of the carb except when cranking with wide open throttle and HS 5 turns open-not when trying to start. Also-I noticed that the HS is only abou 1&1/8 turns out, does that seem too lean?? Guess it's possible that the HS could have got bumped since I put it up-I've got an extension with a 90 on it to clear the cowl. If so could that cause it to not even try to fire? Thanks

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

1 1/8 is not too lean especially if the engine has some time on it...and also if you are not running 30% fuel either. The less nitro you stick in it the leaner the mixture will need to be set to get it correct.

Just becasue they glow doesn't mean its hot enough to start the engine. Especially if the outside temps are cold. This is another issue. You need a juiced up hot plug battery. This si why many people use glow drivers that have a amp meter on them. The plug should take about 2amps...On a normal warm outside day it will start with less but in the winter time sometimes if the temps are low you need to really kick it up. If its flooded too you need to increase the current.

The Radio South Pro Drive is a good little tool. It will supply the needed current and has a meter on it. There is also the RCATS drive does a similar thing.

Then there is always the guy that uses a power panel. This works too. Then you know if the current is getting to the plug. On th Radio South unit is the engine is flooded the glow driver will increase current flow to help burn out the excess fuel and get it to start. This is a nice feature to have.

Remember batteries don't like the cold either...so they won't put out their best juice when its cold. This combined with the fact that the 4 stroke plugs require a little extra boost anyway to get them to light off....I think this could be your issue.

Try your glow driver off a fresh hot charge....I think it will work. Also if you have any kind of remote glow this will add resistance to the setp and the single battery (C cell) types don't have enough power to push the current through all of this...Yet they will still light a single plug to a glow...but it has to be a little hotter to light off the 4 stroke engines.


Troy Newman
Team YS

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

I'll try my power panel charger tomorrow and crank it up a little-it was around 40 degrees today and I can't remember ever running this engine in the winter so don't know how it reacts to the cold. Thanks for all the help Troy-sorry to be such a pest!

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

No problem...and you are not being a pest.

just trying to get you going to enjoy your YS engine.

Troy

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

OK Troy-here's the latest:
Took the HS needle out and cranked for quite a while-maybe 30-45 seconds before I got more than just a drip or two. Never got a real squirt out of it-just what I would call a steady drip or very slow stream-I'm thinking there should be more pressure there?? After that it started right up and ran very rough( To be expected I'm sure) Couldn't get it to stay running at less than about 1/3 throttle and even then after a few seconds at that throttle setting it would start to die and I would have to jab the throttle stick up and down a few times to get it going again. It gradually got better over about 5-6 minutes of running to where it would stay running at anything over about 3000rpm but wouldn't run smooth like it always has. You could hear it surging up and down a little and smoke trail differences with those surges. Just sounded like it wasn't getting a real steady fuel supply. Also could never get the nice slow idle I'm used to with this engine-anything under 2800-3000rpm it would eventually slow down and try to die if I didn't feather the throttle. Always have had a nice idle of at least 1900-2000rpm if not lower-this has always been a great running engine and I've only got 3-4 gallons thru it after the original owner ran 2-3 thru it. Conditions today: Running the same 30% I always use, temp around 40 degrees but took it right out of the house and ran it in the driveway so the engine wasn't cold-started right up every time I hit it with the starter. Might be my imagination but when I vent off the tank pressure after running it doesn't seem as high as I remember. Ideas??

RE: 110 FZ problem
 

The pressure line in gunk ed up too. Flush the check valve with raw fuel...make sure its cleared out and working properly opening the right direction nd closing the other way.

Next thing to try is to put pressure in the tank with you fuel pump this will help get it going at first...As the engine heats up if the pressure line is clear it should start to build pressure and work.

You problem is in the fuel system and plumbing not mechanically in the engine.


Troy Newman
Team YS